This paper is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for formalizing and analyzing sensory data provided by different panels on fabric hand evaluation. For achieving this challenge, we first t...This paper is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for formalizing and analyzing sensory data provided by different panels on fabric hand evaluation. For achieving this challenge, we first transform each evaluation into fuzzy sets and we submit criteria for assessing the fabric hand evaluation given by experts as well as criteria for computing the distances between different panels and the employed linguistic terms in different evaluation spaces. This sensory data analysis allows us to check expert’s and customer’s behaviors on fabric hand. Based on this first procedure about formalization and sensory data analysis, we can study the relationships between sensory evaluation given by different experts for a fabric set and the objective data set provided by appropriate measurements. From a set of fabric samples, a database with nearly 10 parameters characterizing the touch handle is built. This way of evaluation is performed by measuring a set of physical parameters on fabrics. Those parameters constitute the input variables of our model. For the textile industry, the major difficulty lies in the fact that the performed measurements on fabrics lead to precise numerical data describing indirectly fabric hand but their relationships with the evaluation given by experts should be exploited. We implement a fuzzy model which predicts the marks reached for a set of linguistic terms. The effectiveness of these methods and criteria is shown through a number of knitted cotton fabrics.展开更多
A premium composite grey element model is established and used for objective evaluation of fabric hand. Fabric hand is regarded as a grey system and the model is composed of fabric mechanical properties, which are pri...A premium composite grey element model is established and used for objective evaluation of fabric hand. Fabric hand is regarded as a grey system and the model is composed of fabric mechanical properties, which are primary hand attributes. Based on comparison with a standard model, fabric hand can be objectively evaluated.展开更多
This paper presents a web-based integrated system for on-line sensory fabric hand evaluation. The methods of fuzzy techniques, neural networks, classical factorial analysis and other data analysis are used in the syst...This paper presents a web-based integrated system for on-line sensory fabric hand evaluation. The methods of fuzzy techniques, neural networks, classical factorial analysis and other data analysis are used in the system to analyze the objective and subjective data, and to build the relationship between them. Given the objective data of a new fabric sample, the system can provide its sensory hand data and its total hand grade. In meantime, the total hand grade can be obtained directly from the sensory fabric hand data if provided. The sensory evaluation system is developed in Internet environment using Java language and SQL server database management system.展开更多
The results of an investigation into the effects of various finishing processes on the propertiesof cotton rich mans shirting fabrics are presented and discussed.The KES-FB system was used forthe testing of fabric mec...The results of an investigation into the effects of various finishing processes on the propertiesof cotton rich mans shirting fabrics are presented and discussed.The KES-FB system was used forthe testing of fabric mechanical properties.It is concluded that mercerising cotton rich fabrics is nota cost effective finish process while the optimisation of the bleaching process may bring more bene-fit.The investigation is part of a long term program aimed at the development of an expert systemfor total fabric engineering.展开更多
To fulfill the sustainability need of today’s comfort conscious consumers, an attempt has been made in this research study to explore the possibilities of producing high-quality apparel fabrics using unconventional f...To fulfill the sustainability need of today’s comfort conscious consumers, an attempt has been made in this research study to explore the possibilities of producing high-quality apparel fabrics using unconventional fiber fabrics and their union fabrics. Unconventional natural fibers such as banana, hemp, linen and ramie and also their union fabrics with cotton were used. Union fabrics have different fiber content in warp and weft directions. A comparative study was made on the comfort behavior of these fabrics to evaluate their comfort performance. The properties of these fabrics were evaluated and compared under air permeability, moisture management, thermal properties, low-stress mechanical properties, etc. Unconventional fiber fabrics showed better results in many cases and thus were comparable with 100% cotton fabrics.展开更多
The purpose of this study is to select an appropriate commercial neutral cellulase enzyme for denim garments bio-polishing to achieve specific industrial goals. A full factorial experimental design was used to evaluat...The purpose of this study is to select an appropriate commercial neutral cellulase enzyme for denim garments bio-polishing to achieve specific industrial goals. A full factorial experimental design was used to evaluate the effect of factors considered in the optimization of the bio-polishing process (fabric ID: x1, treatment time: x2, treatment temperature: x3, enzyme concentration: x4, storage time: x5, inactivation step: x6 and enzyme type: x7). Experiments were conducted using laboratory washing machine. Subjective evaluation was performed at a pilot and at an industrial scale. Tear, tensile strength and subjective evaluation concerning hand feel, fabric color, indigo dye pocket back staining and fuzziness extent were evaluated. Results showed that x6 and x7 had significant effects on the fabric tear and tensile strength loss. In the optimization, the great dependence between observed and predicted tear strength and tensile strength loss, the correlation coefficient of the models (R<sup>2</sup> > 0.85) and the important value of F-ratio proved the validity of the models. Results showed that denim leg panels treated with the enzyme Lava-Cell NSZ presented a minimum loss of tear and tensile strength. A low-temperature and time enzymatic bio-polishing process was developed at industrial scale.展开更多
基金supported by the joint Sino-French Advanced Research Program(No:PRA-SI-01-05)the National Natural Science Foundation(60004006)from P.R.China.
文摘This paper is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for formalizing and analyzing sensory data provided by different panels on fabric hand evaluation. For achieving this challenge, we first transform each evaluation into fuzzy sets and we submit criteria for assessing the fabric hand evaluation given by experts as well as criteria for computing the distances between different panels and the employed linguistic terms in different evaluation spaces. This sensory data analysis allows us to check expert’s and customer’s behaviors on fabric hand. Based on this first procedure about formalization and sensory data analysis, we can study the relationships between sensory evaluation given by different experts for a fabric set and the objective data set provided by appropriate measurements. From a set of fabric samples, a database with nearly 10 parameters characterizing the touch handle is built. This way of evaluation is performed by measuring a set of physical parameters on fabrics. Those parameters constitute the input variables of our model. For the textile industry, the major difficulty lies in the fact that the performed measurements on fabrics lead to precise numerical data describing indirectly fabric hand but their relationships with the evaluation given by experts should be exploited. We implement a fuzzy model which predicts the marks reached for a set of linguistic terms. The effectiveness of these methods and criteria is shown through a number of knitted cotton fabrics.
文摘A premium composite grey element model is established and used for objective evaluation of fabric hand. Fabric hand is regarded as a grey system and the model is composed of fabric mechanical properties, which are primary hand attributes. Based on comparison with a standard model, fabric hand can be objectively evaluated.
基金supported by the joint Sino-French Advanced Research Program(No:PRA-SI-01-05)the National Natural Science Foundation(60004006)from P.R.China.
文摘This paper presents a web-based integrated system for on-line sensory fabric hand evaluation. The methods of fuzzy techniques, neural networks, classical factorial analysis and other data analysis are used in the system to analyze the objective and subjective data, and to build the relationship between them. Given the objective data of a new fabric sample, the system can provide its sensory hand data and its total hand grade. In meantime, the total hand grade can be obtained directly from the sensory fabric hand data if provided. The sensory evaluation system is developed in Internet environment using Java language and SQL server database management system.
文摘The results of an investigation into the effects of various finishing processes on the propertiesof cotton rich mans shirting fabrics are presented and discussed.The KES-FB system was used forthe testing of fabric mechanical properties.It is concluded that mercerising cotton rich fabrics is nota cost effective finish process while the optimisation of the bleaching process may bring more bene-fit.The investigation is part of a long term program aimed at the development of an expert systemfor total fabric engineering.
文摘To fulfill the sustainability need of today’s comfort conscious consumers, an attempt has been made in this research study to explore the possibilities of producing high-quality apparel fabrics using unconventional fiber fabrics and their union fabrics. Unconventional natural fibers such as banana, hemp, linen and ramie and also their union fabrics with cotton were used. Union fabrics have different fiber content in warp and weft directions. A comparative study was made on the comfort behavior of these fabrics to evaluate their comfort performance. The properties of these fabrics were evaluated and compared under air permeability, moisture management, thermal properties, low-stress mechanical properties, etc. Unconventional fiber fabrics showed better results in many cases and thus were comparable with 100% cotton fabrics.
文摘The purpose of this study is to select an appropriate commercial neutral cellulase enzyme for denim garments bio-polishing to achieve specific industrial goals. A full factorial experimental design was used to evaluate the effect of factors considered in the optimization of the bio-polishing process (fabric ID: x1, treatment time: x2, treatment temperature: x3, enzyme concentration: x4, storage time: x5, inactivation step: x6 and enzyme type: x7). Experiments were conducted using laboratory washing machine. Subjective evaluation was performed at a pilot and at an industrial scale. Tear, tensile strength and subjective evaluation concerning hand feel, fabric color, indigo dye pocket back staining and fuzziness extent were evaluated. Results showed that x6 and x7 had significant effects on the fabric tear and tensile strength loss. In the optimization, the great dependence between observed and predicted tear strength and tensile strength loss, the correlation coefficient of the models (R<sup>2</sup> > 0.85) and the important value of F-ratio proved the validity of the models. Results showed that denim leg panels treated with the enzyme Lava-Cell NSZ presented a minimum loss of tear and tensile strength. A low-temperature and time enzymatic bio-polishing process was developed at industrial scale.
