LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model-Ⅰ. Basic physical model

The LAGFD-WAM wave model is a third generation wave model. In the present paper the physical aspect of the model was shown in great detail including energy spectrum balance equation, complicated characteristics equations and source functions.

LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model- Ⅱ. Characteristics inlaid scheme and its application

In this paper the parameterizational approach of nonlinear source function and the implicit scheme of the model are discussed in detail. The matching problem is solved between time and space steps using the characteristics inlaid scheme with very strong physical meaning. The computational comparison in typical winds shows some improvements to the WAM model. That the hindcast results of the model for typhoon cases are in good agreement with real data illustrates its applicability to wave forecast and engineering study.

A hybrid model for numerical wave forecasting and its implementation-Ⅰ.The wind wave model

The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.

A hybrid model for numerical wave forecasting and its implementation-Ⅱ .The discrete part and implementation of the model

In the first part of the present paper we have explained why we manage to formulate another wave prediction model when so many of them, including the so-called third generation model, have already been in use. The wind-wave part of the proposed model has also been given. Now we proceed to discuss the swell part,the implementation of the model as a prediction method,mumerical experiments done with ideal wind fields and hindcasts made in the Bohai Sea,in the neighboring seas adjacent to China and in the Northwest Pacific.

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model （FEM） based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.

Applications of sediment sudden deposition model based on the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave

The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.

Investigation of Maxima Assumptions in Modelling Tropical Cyclone- Induced Hazards in the South China Sea

The present study aims to examine the suitability of two commonly used assumptions that simplify modelling metoceanconditions for designing offshore wind turbines in the South China Sea (SCS). The first assumption assumes thatjoint N-year extreme wind and wave events can be independently estimated and subsequently combined. The secondone assumes peak wind and waves can be modelled as occurring simultaneously during a tropical cyclone (TC) event.To better understand the potential TC activity, a set of 10000 years synthetic TC events are generated. The wind fieldmodel and the Mike 21 spectral wave model are employed to model the TC-induced hazards. Subsequently, theeffect of the assumptions is evaluated by analyzing the peak structural response of both monopile and semisubmersibleoffshore wind turbines during TC events. The results demonstrate that the examined assumptions are generally accurate.By assessing the implications of these assumptions, valuable insights are obtained, which can inform andimprove the modelling of TC-induced hazards in the SCS region.

Wave Energy Potential Analysis in the Casablanca-Mohammedia Coastal Area (Morocco)

In the last two decades,the exploitation of marine renewable energies(70%of the globe is made up of oceans),especially wave energy,has attracted great interest,not only for their high potential,but also for their high energy density.The development of wave energy is suitable for countries or regions with extensive coastline and high waves approaching the shore.This paper focuses on the study of wave potential and wave energy distribution in the Casablanca-Mohammedia nearshore area(Moroccan Atlantic coast)in order to identify prospective wave energy hotspots.To achieve this purpose,the offshore wave potential was firstly estimated from a 20 years wave data provided by ECMWF(European Center for Medium range Weather Forecasts).In the second step,a numerical modeling of the wave propagation in the study area was performed using the SWAN model jointly with WAVEWATCHIII.The performance of the model to simulate accurately the wave field was evaluated in a real situation characterized by large waves.The model then was applied to determine the patterns of wave field in the Casablanca-Mohammedia nearshore area for a typical wave conditions(winter,summer and storm).The results of this study show the abundance of wave energy in the region with an average annual wave potential of about 22 kW/m.A seasonal variability of the wave resource was demonstrated,with values five times higher in winter than in summer.In addition,a major hotspot site was identified that should be considered when studyingWEC implementation.This hotspot is located at the southern edge of the Casablanca-Mohammedia coast,near the coastal area of Sidi Rahal.

A method to predict typhoon waves

The presented method for numerical typhoon wave prediction is composed of a scheme for real time pressure forecasts, a marine wind numerical model and a typhoon wave numerical model. In the Northwest Pacific Ocean and China seas where water depth is over 20 m, a hybrid wave model [Wen Shengchang, Zhang Dacuo, Chen Bobal and Guo Peifang. 1989, Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 8 (1), 1～14; Zhang Dacuo, Wu Zengmao,Jiang Decai, Wang Wei, Chen Bobai, Tat Weitao, Wen Shengchang, Xu Qichun and Guo Peifaug. 1992, Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 11 (2), 157～178] is employed with 1°×1°grids, while in the South China Sea and East China Sea where typhoon frequently appears, the WAM model (WAMDI Group. 1988, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 18, 1755～1810) of shallow water version is embedded with (1 /4 )°×(1 /4)°grids. The boundary condition at the open boundary of the WAM model is provided by the hybrid model. After 3 a of testing forecasts(Yang Chuncheng, Dai Mingrui and Zhang Dacuo. 1992, International Symposium on Tropical Cyclone Disasters, October 12～16, Beijing, 404～409 ) and improvement, this system was put into operational use on the forecasting computer network of National Marine Environment Forecast Center of China in June, 1993. The wave predictions of 22 typhoon events show that the system is stable and prompt, and the forecast results are satisfactory. This system provides reliable numerical products for the disaster-prevention forecasts. The product is broadcasted in CCTV News at every noon.

Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics

An extremely large（＂freak＂） wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories（for example, the modulation instability theory） were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods： the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models.The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values

Wave Propagation in A Converging Channel of Arbitrary Configuration

A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the effect of channel convergence, the cross-section of the jetties and their physical and damping properties on wave field in the channel. The study reveals numerous non-intuitive results specific for jetted and convergent channels. The analysis shows that wave reflection is usually low and is of secondary practical importance. Wave transmission strongly depends on the channel geometry and transmitted waves may be higher than incident waves, despite reflection and damping processes. Moreover, wave transmission depends on physical and damping properties of rubble jetties and the results show that wave transmission may increase with the increasing damping properties of jetties, which is a non-intuitive feature of wave fields in jetted channels. The analysis reveals several novel results of practical importance. It is shown that the rubble-mound jetties should be constructed from the material of high porosity, which ensures low transmission. More attention should be devoted to hydraulic properties of porous materials. It is recommended to use the material of moderate damping properties. The material of high damping properties often increases the wave transmission. It is possible, by a selection of rubble-mound material, to obtain lower transmission level for steep waves than for waves of moderate steepness. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in the wave flume to verify the theoretical results. The comparisons show that theoretical results are in fairly good agreement with experimental data.

Workflow to numerically reproduce laboratory ultrasonic datasets

The risks and uncertainties related to the storage of high-level radioactive waste （HLRW） can be reducedthanks to focused studies and investigations. HLRWs are going to be placed in deep geological repositories,enveloped in an engineered bentonite barrier, whose physical conditions are subjected tochange throughout the lifespan of the infrastructure. Seismic tomography can be employed to monitor itsphysical state and integrity. The design of the seismic monitoring system can be optimized via conductingand analyzing numerical simulations of wave propagation in representative repository geometry.However, the quality of the numerical results relies on their initial calibration. The main aim of this paperis to provide a workflow to calibrate numerical tools employing laboratory ultrasonic datasets. The finitedifference code SOFI2D was employed to model ultrasonic waves propagating through a laboratorysample. Specifically, the input velocity model was calibrated to achieve a best match between experimentaland numerical ultrasonic traces. Likely due to the imperfections of the contact surfaces, theresultant velocities of P- and S-wave propagation tend to be noticeably lower than those a prioriassigned. Then, the calibrated model was employed to estimate the attenuation in a montmorillonitesample. The obtained low quality factors （Q） suggest that pronounced inelastic behavior of the clay has tobe taken into account in geophysical modeling and analysis. Consequently, this contribution should beconsidered as a first step towards the creation of a numerical tool to evaluate wave propagation innuclear waste repositories. 2014 Institute of Rock and Soil Mechanics, Chinese Academy of Sciences. Production and hosting byElsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A NEW NUMERICAL WAVE FLUME COMBINING THE 0-1 TYPE BEM AND THE VOF METHOD

A new coupling numerical wave model, based on both the Boundary Element Method （BEM） and the Volume Of Fluid （VOF） method, is established by taking advantages of the both methods to solve the wave-structure interaction problems. In this model, the wave transformation in front of structures is calculated by the 0-1 type BEM, and the intense wave motions near the structures are calculated by the VOF method. In this paper, the characteristics of the BEM and the VOF method are discussed first, and then the coupling treatments are described in detail. In the end, the accuracy and the validity of the coupling model are examined by comparing the numerical results with experiment results and other numerical results available for the interactions between regular waves with a monolayer horizontal plate.

PML Absorbing Boundary Condition for Seismic Numerical Modeling by Convolutional Differentiator in Fluid-Saturated Porous Media

The perfectly matched layer（PML） was first introduced by Berenger as an absorbing boundary condition for electromagnetic wave propagation.In this article,a method is developed to ex-tend the PML to simulating seismic wave propagation in fluid-saturated porous medium.This non-physical boundary is used at the computational edge of a Forsyte polynomial convolutional differenti-ator（FPCD） algorithm as an absorbing boundary condition to truncate unbounded media.The incor-poration of PML in Biot＇s equations is given.Numerical results show that the PML absorbing bound-ary condition attenuates the outgoing waves effectively and eliminates the reflections adequately.

Numerical Buoyancy-Wave Model for Wave Stress and Drag Simulations in the Atmosphere

Orographic drag formation is investigated using a numerical wave model(NWM),based on the pressure-coordinate dynamics of non-hydrostatic HIRLAM.The surface drag,wave stress(vertical flux of horizontal momentum),and wave drag are split to the longitudinal and transverse components and presented as Fourier sums of their spectral amplitudes weighted with the power spectrum of relative orographic height.The NWM is accomplished,enabling a spectral investigation of the buoyancy wave stress,and drag generation by orography and is then applied to a cold front,characterised by low static stability of the upper troposphere,large vertical and directional wind variations,and intensive trapped wave generation downstream of obstacles.Resonances are discovered in the stress and drag spectra in the form of high narrow peaks.The stress conservation problem is revisited.Longitudinal stress conserves in unidirectional flow,2D orography conditions,but becomes convergent for rotating wind or 3D orography.Even in the convergent case the vertical momentum flux from the troposphere to stratosphere remains substantial.The transverse stress never conserves.Disappearing at the surface and on the top,it realises the main momentum exchange between lower an upper parts of the troposphere.Existence of stationary stratospheric quasi-turbulence(SQT)is established above wind minimum in the stratosphere.