Ocean Wave Model and Wave Drift Caused by the Asymmetry of Crest and Trough

It follows from the review on classical wave models that the asymmetry of crest and trough is the direct cause for wave drift. Based on this, a new model of Lagrangian form is constructed. Relative to the Gerstner model, its improvement is reflected in the horizontal motion which includes an explicit drift term. On the one hand, the depth-decay factor for the new drift accords well with that of the particle’s horizontal velocity. It is more rational than that of Stokes drift. On the other hand, the new formula needs no Taylor expansion as for Stokes drift and is applicable for the waves with big slopes. In addition, the new formula can also yield a more rational magnitude for the surface drift than that of Stokes.

Wave forecast in the Atlantic Ocean using a double-stage ConvLSTM network

海浪预报对海上运输安全至关重要.本研究提出了一种涵盖物理信息的深度学习模型Double-stage ConvLSTM(D-ConvLSTM)以改进大西洋的海浪预报.将D-ConvLSTM模型与海浪持续性预测和原始ConvLSTM模型的预测技巧进行对比.结果表明,预测误差随着预测时长的增加而增加.D-ConvLSTM模型在预测准确度方面优于前二者,且第三天预测的均方根误差低于0.4 m,距平相关系数约在0.8.此外,当使用IFS预测风替代再分析风时,能够产生相似的预测效果.这表明D-ConvLSTM模型的预测能力能够与ECMWF-WAM模式相当,且更节省计算资源和时间.

The effect of the wave-induced mixing on the upper ocean temperature in a climate model

The significant underestimation of sea surface temperature （SST） and the temperature in the upper ocean is one of common problems in present climate models. The influence of the wave-induced mixing on SST and the temperature in the upper ocean was examined based on a global climate model. The results from the model coupled with wave-induced mixing showed a significant improvement in the simulation of SST and the temperature in the upper ocean compared with those of the original model without wave effects. Although there has still a cold bias, the new simulation is much closer to the climatology, especially in the northern ocean and tropical ocean. This study indicates that some important physical processes in the accurate simulation of the ocean may be ignored in present climate models, and the wave-induced mixing is one of those factors. Thus, the wave-induced mixing （ or the effect of surface waves） should be incorporated properly into climate models in order to simulate or forecast the ocean, then climate system, more accurately.

Development of a fine-resolution atmosphere-wave-ocean coupled forecasting model for the South China Sea and its adjacent seas

A 72-h fine-resolution atmosphere-wave-ocean coupled forecasting system was developed for the South China Sea and its adjacent seas. The forecasting model domain covers from from 15°S to 45°N in latitude and 99°E to135°E in longitude including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea, the East China Sea, the South China Sea and the Indonesian seas. To get precise initial conditions for the coupled forecasting model, the forecasting system conducts a 24-h hindcast simulation with data assimilation before forecasting. The Ensemble Adjustment Kalman Filter(EAKF) data assimilation method was adopted for the wave model MASNUM with assimilating Jason-2 significant wave height(SWH) data. The EAKF data assimilation method was also introduced to the ROMS model with assimilating sea surface temperature(SST), mean absolute dynamic topography(MADT) and Argo profiles data. To improve simulation of the structure of temperature and salinity, the vertical mixing scheme of the ocean model was improved by considering the surface wave induced vertical mixing and internal wave induced vertical mixing. The wave and current models were integrated from January 2014 to October 2015 driven by the ECMWF reanalysis 6 hourly mean dataset with data assimilation. Then the coupled atmosphere-wave-ocean forecasting system was carried out 14 months operational running since November 2015. The forecasting outputs include atmospheric forecast products, wave forecast products and ocean forecast products. A series of observation data are used to evaluate the coupled forecasting results, including the wind, SHW, ocean temperature and velocity.The forecasting results are in good agreement with observation data. The prediction practice for more than one year indicates that the coupled forecasting system performs stably and predict relatively accurate, which can support the shipping safety, the fisheries and the oil exploitation.

Wave-current interaction during Typhoon Nuri(2008)and Hagupit(2008):an application of the coupled ocean-wave modeling system in the northern South China Sea

The northern South China Sea(SCS) is frequently affected by typhoons. During severe storm events, wave-current interactions produce storm surges causing enormous damage in the path of the typhoon. To evaluate the influence of wave-current interactions on storm surge, we used a coupled ocean-atmospherewave-sediment transport(COAWST) modeling system with radiation-stress and vortex-force formulations to simulate two typically intense tropical storms that invaded the SCS, namely Typhoons Nuri(2008) and Hagupit(2008), and compared results with observations from the Hong Kong Observatory. Both radiationstress and vortex-force formulations significantly improved the accuracy of the simulation. Depending on which typhoon and the topography encountered, the influence of surface waves on the oceanic circulation showed different characteristics, including the differences of range and intensity of storm surge between vortex-force and radiation-stress experiments. During typhoon landing, strong sea-surface elevation in concert with wave set-up/set-down caused the adjustment of the momentum balance. In the direction perpendicular to the current, but especially in the cross-shore direction, the pressure gradient and wave effects on the current dominated the momentum balance.

APPLIED STUDY ON ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN-WAVE COUPLED MODEL IN SOUTH CHINA SEA

Based on MM5,POM,and WW3,a regional atmosphere-ocean-wave coupled system is developed in this work under the environment of Message Passing Interface.The coupled system is applied in a study of two typhoon processes in the South China Sea(SCS).The results show that the coupled model operates steadily and efficiently and exhibits good capability in simulating typhoon processes.It improves the simulation accuracy of the track and intensity of the typhoon.The response of ocean surface to the typhoon is remarkable,especially on the right side of the typhoon track.The sea surface temperature(SST)declines,and the ocean current and wave height are intensified.In the coupling experiment,the decline of SST intensifies and the inertial oscillation amplitude of the ocean current increases when the ocean-wave effect is considered.Therefore,the atmosphere-ocean-wave coupled system can help in the study of air-sea interaction and improve the capability of predicting and preventing weather and oceanic disasters in SCS.

A REGIONAL COUPLED AIR-SEA-WAVE MODEL: SIMULATION OF UPPER-OCEAN RESPONSES TO AN IDEALIZED TROPICAL CYCLONE

In this study a coupled air-sea-wave model system, containing the model components of GRAPES-TCM, ECOM-si and WAVEWATCH III, is established based on an air-sea coupled model. The changes of wave state and the effects of sea spray are both considered. Using the complex air-sea-wave model, a set of idealized simulations was applied to investigate the effects of air-sea-wave interaction in the upper ocean. Results show that air-wave coupling can strengthen tropical cyclones while air-sea coupling can weaken them; and air-sea-wave coupling is comparable to that of air-sea coupling, as the intensity is almost unchanged with the wave model coupled to the air-sea coupled model.The mixing by vertical advection is strengthened if the wave effect is considered, and causes much more obvious sea surface temperature(SST) decreases in the upper ocean in the air-sea coupled model. Air-wave coupling strengthens the air-sea heat exchange, while the thermodynamic coupling between the atmosphere and ocean weakens the air-sea heat exchange: the air-sea-wave coupling is the result of their balance. The wave field distribution characteristic is determined by the wind field. Experiments are also conducted to simulate ocean responses to different mixed layer depths.With increasing depth of the initial mixed layer, the decrease of SST weakens, but the temperature decrease of deeper layers is enhanced and the loss of heat in the upper ocean is increased. The significant wave height is larger when the initial mixed layer depth increases.

The effect of Coriolis-Stokes forcing on upper ocean circulation in a two-way coupled wave-current model

We investigated the Stokes drift-driven ocean currents and Stokes drift-induced wind energy input into the upper ocean using a two-way coupled wave-current modeling system that consists of the Princeton Ocean Model generalized coordinate system (POMgcs), Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model, and the Model Coupling Toolkit (MCT). The Coriolis-Stokes forcing (CSF) computed using the wave parameters from SWAN was incorporated with the momentum equation of POMgcs as the core coupling process. Experimental results in an idealized setting show that under the steady state, the scale of the speed of CSF-driven current was 0.001 m/s and the maximum reached 0.02 m/s. The Stokes drift-induced energy rate input into the model ocean was estimated to be 28.5 GW, taking 14% of the direct wind energy rate input. Considering the Stokes drift effects, the total mechanical energy rate input was increased by approximately 14%, which highlights the importance of CSF in modulating the upper ocean circulation. The actual run conducted in Taiwan Adjacent Sea (TAS) shows that: 1) CSF-based wave-current coupling has an impact on ocean surface currents, which is related to the activities of monsoon winds; 2) wave-current coupling plays a significant role in a place where strong eddies present and tends to intensify the eddy's vorticity; 3) wave-current coupling affects the volume transport of the Taiwan Strait (TS) throughflow in a nontrivial degree, 3.75% on average.

A parameterization scheme of vertical mixing due to inertial internal wave breaking in the ocean general circulation model

Based on the theoretical spectral model of inertial internal wave breaking （fine structure） proposed previ- ously, in which the effects of the horizontal Coriolis frequency component f-tilde on a potential isopycnal are taken into account, a parameterization scheme of vertical mixing in the stably stratified interior be- low the surface mixed layer in the ocean general circulation model （OGCM） is put forward preliminarily in this paper. Besides turbulence, the impact of sub-mesoscale oceanic processes （including inertial internal wave breaking product） on oceanic interior mixing is emphasized. We suggest that adding the inertial inter- hal wave breaking mixing scheme （F-scheme for short） put forward in this paper to the turbulence mixing scheme of Canuto et al. （T-scheme for short） in the OGCM, except the region from 15°S to 15°N. The numeri- cal results ofF-scheme by usingWOA09 data and an OGCM （LICOM, LASG/IAP climate system ocean model） over the global ocean are given. A notable improvement in the simulation of salinity and temperature over the global ocean is attained by using T-scheme adding F-scheme, especially in the mid- and high-latitude regions in the simulation of the intermediate water and deep water. We conjecture that the inertial internal wave breaking mixing and inertial forcing of wind might be one of important mechanisms maintaining the ventilation process. The modeling strength of the Atlantic meridional overturning circulation （AMOC） by using T-scheme adding F-scheme may be more reasonable than that by using T-scheme alone, though the physical processes need to be further studied, and the overflow parameterization needs to be incorporated. A shortcoming in F-scheme is that in this paper the error of simulated salinity and temperature by using T-scheme adding F-scheme is larger than that by using T-scheme alone in the subsurface layer.

The role of surface waves in the ocean mixed layer

Previously, most ocean circulation models have overlooked the role of the surface waves. As a result, these models have produced insufficient vertical mixing, with an under - prediction of the ,nixing layer （ML） depth and an over - prediction of the sea surface temperature （SST）, particularly during the summer season. As the ocean surface layer determines the lower boundary conditions of the atmosphere, this deficiency has severely limited the performance of the coupled ocean - atmospheric models and hence the climate studies. To overcome this shortcoming, a new parameterization for the wave effects in the ML model that will correct this systematic error of insufficient mixing. The new scheme has enabled the mixing layer to deepen, the surface excessive heating to be corrected, and an excellent agreement with observed global climatologic data. The study indicates that the surface waves are essential for ML formation, and that they are the primer drivers of the upper ocean dynamics; therefore, they are critical for climate studies.

Ocean Wave Simulation near the Seashore

In order to realize real-time simulation of ocean surface near the seashore, a new modeling method for shallow ocean wave and a level of detail （LOD） scheme are proposed in this paper. This modeling method describes ocean wave by modifying the sine wave, and gets wave direction at any ocean floor position by using wave number decomposition. The LOD scheme is proposed to realize real-time rendering of large-scale ocean surface by simplifying the ocean surface regular mesh based on real-time optimally adapting meshes （ROAM）. Experimental results show that this method can get fast rendering speed and realistic effect.

Down-scaled regional ocean modeling system (ROMS) for high-resolution coastal hydrodynamics in Korea

A down-scaled operational oceanographic system is developed for the coastal waters of Korea using a re- gional ocean modeling system （ROMS）. The operational oceanographic modeling system consists of at- mospheric and hydrodynamic models. The hydrodynamic model, ROMS, is coupled with wave, sediment transport, and water quality modules. The system forecasts the predicted results twice a day on a 72 h basis, including sea surface elevation, currents, temperature, salinity, storm surge height, and wave information for the coastal waters of Korea. The predicted results are exported to the web-GIS-based coastal informa- tion system for real-time dissemination to the public and validation with real-time monitoring data using visualization technologies. The ROMS is two-way coupled with a simulating waves nearshore model, SWAN, for the hydrodynamics and waves, nested with the meteorological model, WRE for the atmospheric surface forcing, and externally nested with the eutrophication model, CE-QUAL-ICM, for the water quality. The op- erational model, ROMS, was calibrated with the tidal surface observed with a tide-gage and verified with current data observed by bottom-mounted ADCP or AWAC near the coastal waters of Korea. To validate the predicted results, we used real-time monitoring data derived from remote buoy system, HF-radar, and geostationary ocean color imager （GOCI）. This down-scaled operational coastal forecasting system will be used as a part of the Korea operational oceanographic system （KOOS） with other operational oceanographic systems.

Model-Simulated Coastal Trapped Waves Stimulated by Typhoon in Northwestern South China Sea

In this paper, we apply an unstructured grid coastal ocean model to simulate variations in the sea level and currents forced by two typhoons in the northwestern South China Sea(SCS). The model simulations show distinct differences for the two cases in which the typhoon paths were north and south of the Qiongzhou(QZ) Strait. In both cases, coastal trapped waves(CTWs) are stimulated but their propagation behaviors differ. Model sensitivity simulations suggest the dominant role played by alongshore wind in the eastern SCS(near Shanwei) and southeast of Hainan Island. We also examine the influence of the Leizhou Peninsula by changing the coastline in simulation experiments. Based on our results, we can draw the following conclusions: 1) The CTWs stimulated by the northern typhoon are stronger than the southern CTW. 2) In the two cases, the directions of the current structures of the QZ cross-transect are reversed. The strongest flow cores are both located in the middle-upper area of the strait and the results of our empirical orthogonal function analysis show that the vertical structure is highly barotropic. 3) The simulated CTWs divide into two branches in the QZ Strait for the northern typhoon, and an island trapped wave(ITW) around Hainan Island for the southern typhoon. 4) The Leizhou Peninsula plays a significant role in the distribution of the kinetic energy flux between the two CTW branches. In the presence of the Leizhou Peninsula, the QZ branch has only 39.7 percent of the total energy, whereas that ratio increases to 72.2 percent in its absence.

Long baroclinic Rossby waves with periods of about 500 d near 20°N in the northwest Pacific Ocean

On the basis of maps of sea level anomalies data set from October 1992 to January 2004, pronounced low frequency variations with periods of about 500 d are detected in the area near 20°N from 160°W to 130°E. A linear two-layer model is employed to explain the mechanism. It is found that the first-mode long baroclinic Rossby waves at 20°N in the northwest Pacific propagate westward in the form of free waves at a speed of about 10.3 cm/s. This confirms that the observed low frequency variabilities appear as baroclinic Rossby waves. It further shows that these low frequency variabilities around 20°N in the northwest Pacific can potentially be predicted with a lead up to 900 d.

Wave Watch的操作系统移植及其与SWAN嵌套接口的改进

为使WaveWatch和SWAN两种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行,将WaveWatch模式从UNIX移植到Windows系统下运行,同时对SWAN模式与WaveWatch模式的嵌套接口格点座标读取精度进行修改,使其能够应用于不规则边界的曲线网格和小间距规则网格的嵌套;作为检验个例,使用WaveWatchIII与SWAN模式多重嵌套的方法在Windows系统下对长江口海浪场进行数值模拟实验,得到了理想的模拟结果。

海洋背景涡度对台风康森引起的近惯性波的影响研究

近惯性波是海洋中普遍存在的一种内波,它在海洋中的传播和耗散受到背景涡度的影响。基于混合坐标海洋模型(hybrid coordinate ocean model,HYCOM)再分析数据,研究了海洋背景正、负涡度对台风康森在南海引起的近惯性波的不同影响。结果表明:负涡度能捕捉并促进近惯性能量向海洋深层的传播,可传播到1200 m以深;而正涡度则阻碍近惯性能量的下传,使其主要集中在海洋上层500 m以内。负涡度区域能维持较强的近惯性能量10 d以上,而正涡度区域内的近惯性能量维持时间在1周左右。负涡度区域内的近惯性波由第二和第三模态主导,而正涡度区域内的近惯性波由第一和第二模态主导,导致海洋内部(500~1000 m)负涡度区域内的近惯性波剪切比正涡度区域内的近惯性波剪切强1~2个量级。波射线模型模拟结果显示,近惯性波在负涡度区域边缘发生反射,进而被负涡度区域捕获;而正涡度区域内的近惯性波有加速远离源地的趋势。上述结果进一步说明,海洋背景负涡度能增强近惯性能量的垂向传播,而正涡度则促进了近惯性能量的水平传播。

融合星载GNSS-R数据和多变量参数全球海洋有效波高深度学习反演法

星载GNSS-R作为一种新兴的观测方法,最近被应用于有效波高反演。现有研究通常使用从延迟多普勒图中提取的特征值以构建经验地球物理模型函数反演SWH。然而,使用多个变量参数作为模型输入具有很大挑战。为此,本文提出了一个融合星载GNSS-R数据和多变量参数反演全球海面SWH的深度学习网络模型(GloWH-Net)。为了验证本文模型的性能,ERA5、WaveWatchⅢ和AVISO SWH数据被用作广泛测试的参考数据,以评估GloWH-Net模型和先前模型(即经验模型和机器学习模型)的SWH反演性能。结果表明,当分别使用ERA5、WaveWatchⅢ和AVISO SWH作为参考值时,所提的GloWH-Net模型反演SWH的均方根误差分别为0.330、0.393和0.433 m,相关系数分别为0.91、0.89和0.84。相比基于最小方差估计器的经验组合模型反演SWH的均方根误差分别降低了53.45%、48.06%和40.63%;相比袋装树机器学习模型反演SWH的均方根误差分别降低了21.92%、18.72%和4.47%。表明了本文方法在反演全球海面SWH方面具有显著优势。

江苏沿海海浪模拟研究和灾害特征分析

本研究利用2003-2022年江苏省的海浪灾害数据对灾害形势进行分析,并采用第三代海浪模型SWAN对江苏海域海浪特征进行模拟,收集江苏沿海苏北浅滩和盐城外浮标实测海浪数据对模型结果进行比对验证。对江苏海域海浪灾害特征的研究和分析结果表明:整个江苏沿海基本以东北和东南向浪为主,大浪占比较大出现在8-9月,江苏沿海海域多年一遇有效波高沿着岸线呈南北向带状分布,由北向南的梯度逐渐增大,致灾方面,台风浪对海洋经济的影响较大,而气旋浪和冷空气浪对人员伤亡的危险性更大。

海底地震仪与拖揽观测系统的联合走时层析海水速度建模

在海洋地震勘探过程中,如果不考虑海水的非均匀性将会在后续层析成像过程中引入伪影,因此准确的海水速度建模是非常有必要的.海底地震仪(OBS)记录数据中的透射波具有较大的射线角度,能够为海水建模提供垂向分辨率;而拖缆观测可以补充OBS分布稀疏造成的横向欠采样,同时可以定位海底深度并更新OBS位置信息.综合利用OBS和拖缆观测系统可以克服各自的局限性,提高海水速度建模的精度.为此,本文提出了一种基于OBS与拖缆观测系统的海水透射波、海底反射波联合走时层析方法,同时反演海水声速分布和海底深度.二维理论模型实验和实际资料处理结果表明,该方法能够准确反演海水声速分布和海底深度,提高震相走时的匹配程度,为后续成像提供准确的非均匀海水模型.

海景路护岸工程波浪数值模拟分析

为解决海岸护岸工程不同重现期的设计波要素计算问题,以荣成市好运角旅游度假区海景路护岸工程为研究对象,根据成山头海洋站数据风、浪资料,结合ECMWF(欧洲中长期天气预报中心)后报长期风、浪资料,采用第三代海浪模式SWAN模型计算得到拟建护岸设计波浪要素,并对结果进行统计分析。结果表明,工程海域各点位的波况受深水重现期波高影响,重现期越长的波浪对工程海域各点位影响越大;防波堤的建设主要受到E、SE、S向波浪影响;工程点波况受水位影响较大。