The New Form of Time-Dependent Mild Slope Equation for Random Waves

The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significant effect in the refraction and diffraction problems. In this paper, a new form of time-dependent mild slope equation for irregular waves was derived with Fade approximation and Kubo's time series concept. The equation was simplified using WKB method, and simple and practical irregular mild slope equation was obtained. Results of numerical calculations are compared with those of laboratory experiments.

Numerical simulation of solitary and random wave propagation through vegetation based on VOF method

A vertical two-dimensional numerical model has been applied to solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier- Stokes （RANS} equations in the simulation of current and wave propagation through vegetated and non- vegetated waters. The k-e model is used for turbulence closure of RANS equations. The effect of vegeta- tion is simulated by adding the drag force of vegetation in the flow momentum equations and turbulence model. To solve the modified N-S equations, the finite difference method is used with the staggered grid system to solver equations. The Youngs＇ fractional volume of fluid （VOF） is applied tracking the free sur- face with second-order accuracy. The model has been tested by simulating dam break wave, pure current with vegetation, solitary wave runup on vegetated and non-vegetated channel, regular and random waves over a vegetated field. The model reasonably well reproduces these experimental observations, the model- ing approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in coastal domains with vegetation effects.

Artificial Neural Network Ability in Evaluation of Random Wave-Induced Inline Force on A Vertical Cylinder

An approach based on artificial neural network （ANN） is used to develop predictive relations between hydrodynamic inline force on a vertical cylinder and some effective parameters. The data used to calibrate and validate the ANN models are obtained from an experiment. Multilayer feed-forward neural networks that are trained with the back-propagation algorithm are constructed by use of three design parameters （i.e. wave surface height, horizontal and vertical velocities） as network inputs and the ultimate inline force as the only output. A sensitivity analysis is conducted on the ANN models to investigate the generalization ability （robustness） of the developed models, and predictions from the ANN models are compared to those obtained from Morison equation which is usually used to determine inline force as a computational method. With the existing data, it is found that least square method （LSM） gives less error in determining drag and inertia coefficients of Morison equation. With regard to the predicted results agreeing with calculations achieved from Morison equation that used LSM method, neural network has high efficiency considering its convenience, simplicity and promptitude. The outcome of this study can contribute to reducing the errors in predicting hydrodynamic inline force by use of ANN and to improve the reliability of that in comparison with the more practical state of Morison equation. Therefore, this method can be applied to relevant engineering projects with satisfactory results

Oblique and Multi-Directional Random Wave Loads on Vertical Breakwaters

Extensive 3-D model tests have been performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multi-directionality on the wave loads acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on an unit length of a breakwater with wave direction, the longitudinal distribution of wave forces, as well as the longitudinal load reduction are analyzed. Some empirical formulae of the longitudinal distribution coefficient and the longitudinal load reduction factor are presented for practical use.

Second-order random wave solutions for interfacial internal waves in N-layer density-stratified fluid

This paper studies the random internal wave equations describing the density interface displacements and the velocity potentials of N-layer stratified fluid contained between two rigid walls at the top and bottom. The density interface displacements and the velocity potentials were solved to the second-order by an expansion approach used by Longuet-Higgins （1963） and Dean （1979） in the study of random surface waves and by Song （2004） in the study of second- order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid. The obtained results indicate that the first-order solutions are a linear superposition of many wave components with different amplitudes, wave numbers and frequencies, and that the amplitudes of first-order wave components with the same wave numbers and frequencies between the adjacent density interfaces are modulated by each other. They also show that the second-order solutions consist of two parts： the first one is the first-order solutions, and the second one is the solutions of the second-order asymptotic equations, which describe the second-order nonlinear modification and the second-order wave-wave interactions not only among the wave components on same density interfaces but also among the wave components between the adjacent density interfaces. Both the first-order and second-order solutions depend on the density and depth of each layer. It is also deduced that the results of the present work include those derived by Song （2004） for second-order random wave solutions for internal waves in a two-layer fluid as a particular case.

Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect:Random Waves

New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.

Numerical Study of A Round Buoyant Jet Under the Effect of JONSWAP Random Waves

This paper presents a numerical study on the hydrodynamic behaviours of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves. A three-dimensional large eddy simulation （LES） model is developed to simulate the buoyant jet in a stagnant ambient and JONSWAP random waves. By comparison of velocity and concentration fields, it is found that the buoyant jet exhibits faster decay of centerline velocity, wider lateral spreading and larger initial dilution under the wave effect, indicating that wave dynamics improves the jet entrainment and mixing in the near field, and subsequently mitigate the jet impacts in the far field. The effect of buoyancy force on the jet behaviours in the random waves is also numerically investigated. The results show that the wave effect on the jet entrainment and mixing is considerably weakened under the existence of buoyancy force, resulting in a slower decay rate of centerline velocity and a narrower jet width for the jet with initial buoyancy.

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.

Hydrodynamic Analysis of Elastic Floating Collars in Random Waves

As the main load-bearing component of fish cages, the floating collar supports the whole cage and undergoes large deformations. In this paper, a mathematical method is developed to study the motions and elastic deformations of elastic floating collars in random waves. The irregular wave is simulated by the random phase method and the statistical approach and Fourier transfer are applied to analyze the elastic response in both time and frequency domains. The governing equations of motions are established by Newton＇s second law, and the governing equations of deformations are obtained based on curved beam theory and modal superposition method. In order to validate the numerical model of the floating collar attacked by random waves, a series of physical model tests are conducted. Good relationship between numerical simulation and experimental observations is obtained. The numerical results indicate that the transfer function of out-of-plane and in-plane deformations increase with the increasing of wave frequency. In the frequency range between 0.6 Hz and 1.1 Hz, a linear relationship exists between the wave elevations and the deformations. The average phase difference between the wave elevation and out-of-plane deformation is 60° with waves leading and the phase between the wave elevation and in-plane deformation is 10° with waves lagging. In addition, the effect of fish net on the elastic response is analyzed. The results suggest that the deformation of the floating collar with fish net is a little larger than that without net.

Coupling Response of Heave and Moonpool Water Motion of A Truss Spar Platform in Random Waves

This paper presents the heave responses and the moonpool water motions of a truss Spar platform with semi-closed moonpool in random waves. A 2-DOF（degree of freedom） coupling dynamical equations of the platform heave and vertical motions of the moonpool water are derived. The linear wave theory is used to simulate the random waves. The response statistical values and the power spectrums are calculated to analyze the mutual influences between the platform heave and the moonpool water motions for different opening ratios of the moonpool. The effect of coupling parameters on the platform heave and the moonpool water motions are analyzed. The results show that motions of the moonpool water significantly affected the platform heave when the characteristic wave period is far away from the natural period of the platform heave, and different moonpool opening ratios lead to different heave amplitudes of the platform. In the actual design, an optimized moonpool opening ratio can be designed to reduce heave motions of the platform.

The dispersion of surface contaminants by Stokes drift in random waves

Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves.In the literature,it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechanism through the induced Stokes drift,and that this dispersion mechanism may have the same order of significance comparable with the others means due to tidal currents and wind.It is investigated whether or not surface floating substances will disperse in the random wave environment due to the induced Stokes drift.An analytical derivation is first performed to obtain the drift velocity under the random waves.From the analysis,it is shown that the drift velocity is a time-independent value that does not possess any fluctuation given a specific wave energy spectrum.Thus,the random wave drift by itself should not have a dispersive effect on the surface floating substances.Experiments were then conducted with small floating objects subjected to P-M spectral waves in a laboratory wave flume,and the experimental results reinforced the conclusion drawn.

Observations of Freak Waves in Random Wave Field in 2D Experimental Wave Flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.

Dynamic Wave Pressures on Deeply Embedded Large Cylindrical Structures due to Random Waves

The response of dynamic wave pressures on structures would be more complicated and bring about new phenomena under the dynamic interaction between soil and structure. In order to better understand the response characteristics on deeply embedded large cylindrical structures under random waves, and accordingly to offer valuable findings for engineering, the authors designed wave flume experiments to investigate comparatively dynamic wave pressures on a single and on continuous cylinders with two different embedment depths in response to two wave spectra.The time histories of the water surface elevation and the corresponding dynamic wave pressures exerted on the cylinder were analyzed in the frequency domain. By calculating the transfer function and spectral density for dynamic wave pressures along the height and around the circumference of the cylinder, experimental results of the single cylinder were compared with the theoretical results based on the linear diffraction theory, and detailed comparisons were also carried out between the single and continuous cylinders. Some new findings and the corresponding analysis are reported in present paper. The investigation on continuous cylinders will be used in particular for reference in engineering applications because information is scarce on studying such kind of problem both analytically and experimentally.

Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Wave Transformation in a Yacht Port

This paper extends a prediction model for multi-directional random wave transformation based on an energy balance equation by Mase with the consideration of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. This numerical model is improved by 1) introducing Wen's frequency spectrum and Mitsuyasu's directional function, which are more suitable to the coastal area of China; 2) considering energy dissipation caused by bottom friction, which ensures more accurate results for large-scale and shallow water areas; 3) taking into account a non-linear dispersion relation. Predictions using the extended wave model are carried out to study the feasibility of constructing the Ai Hua yacht port in Qingdao, China, with a comparison between two port layouts in design. Wave fields inside the port for different incident wave directions, water levels and return periods are simulated, and then two kinds of parameters are calculated to evaluate the wave conditions for the two layouts. Analyses show that Layout I is better than Layout II. Calculation results also show that the harbor will be calm for different wave directions under the design water level. On the contrary, the wave conditions do not wholly meet the requirements of a yacht port for ship berthing under the extreme water level. For safety consideration, the elevation of the breakwater might need to be properly increased to prevent wave overtopping under such water level. The extended numerical simulation model may provide an effective approach to computing wave heights in a harbor.

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.

Study on Current-Random Wave Forces Acting on a Framework

The forces of random wave plus current acting on a simplified offshore platform (jacket) model have been studied numerically and experimentally. The numerical results are in good agreement with experiments. The mean force can be approximated as a function of equivalent velocity parameter and the root-mean-square force as a function of equivalent significant wave height parameter.

The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution

In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.

Numerical Simulation of Random Wave Overtopping of Rubble Mound Breakwater with Armor Units

Based on the open source code OpenFOAM,a three-dimensional model is presented for simulation of the interaction between waves and rubble mound breakwater with armor units.The armor units with their real geometries are depicted through computational grids.The volume-averaged RANS equation and the seepage equation containing nonlinear term are used to describe the percolation in the core and underlayer of the breakwater.Grids independence analysis are carried out,the horizontal and vertical grid size are recommended to take as one-fifteenth of the mean nominal diameter D_(50) of the armor units and one-fifteenth of the wave height respectively.Random wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwater with armor units is simulated through the proposed model.The results show good agreement between the simulated and measured overtopping discharge rates for different types of armor units.The developed numerical model can be used to evaluate the random wave overtopping in design of rubble mound breakwater with artificial armor blocs.

Analysis Model of Dynamic Response on the Circular Caisson Breakwater Under Random Wave

The random wave load is applied to dynamic response analysis of circular caisson breakwater. The motion process of circular caisson breakwater is classified as rotation motion mode and rotation-and-sliding motion mode. The dynamic model system composed of damper-antislider to control the lateral sliding is introduced, and corresponding dynamic equations of two motion modes are established. The formulas to calculate added mass and new conversion relation of the unit rota- tional stiffness coefficient are put forward according to the characteristic of the circular caisson breakwater. An engineering case is calculated by a program compiled in Fortran language using proposed dynamic model and method. The validity of the model is calibrated.

The second order spectrum of two-dimensional random waves

On the basis of the second order solution of two-dimensional random gravity waves in finite uniform depth,which is rederived by a perturbation expansion method,the analytical expression of the second order spectrum is strictly deduced, and for infinite depth, the correct form of the kernel function is given for each octant do main.In fact,the present study improves and corrects the generally accepted results obtained by Tick