Several sets of S4 direction-wave-current-tide meters have been deployed on the coral-reef flat of Yongshu Reef in the sea area of Nansha Islands.Based on the observational sea wave data, the attenuation characterist...Several sets of S4 direction-wave-current-tide meters have been deployed on the coral-reef flat of Yongshu Reef in the sea area of Nansha Islands.Based on the observational sea wave data, the attenuation characteristics of the waves propagating on the coral reef flat, the bottom friction coefficients and the transfer of wave energy are discussed in the paper. The results show that, in the relative depths of 0.0613～0.0867, the wave height attenuation per unit distance of wave propagation is 22.09%～46.56%, with an average of 31.35%; the wave energy attenuation coefficient, 33.74%～53.22%, with an average of 43.61%. The average of the bottom friction coefficients on the coral-reef flat is 0.1346, which is about 10 times that on the sand or silt bottom. In the course of propagation on the reef flat, the waves sustain more loss in high frequency than in low frequency and the spectral energy transfers to the low frequency. These results may be used for reference in island and reef engineering.展开更多
Modern fringing reefs are developed on the intertidal to subtidal area of Xiaodonghai bay, Sanya, Hainan Island. The reef flat extends several dozen meters toward the sea. Various ecological and sedimentary zonations ...Modern fringing reefs are developed on the intertidal to subtidal area of Xiaodonghai bay, Sanya, Hainan Island. The reef flat extends several dozen meters toward the sea. Various ecological and sedimentary zonations can be distinguished, including, from land to sea, beachrocks, large massive corals, inner reef flat, outer reef flat, and fore-reef slope. The carbonate sediments and constituent hermatypic coral communities are different in these zones. The beachrocks are composed mainly of biological sands, including coral skeletons, algae, gastropods, bivalves, and benthic foraminifera. Quartz sands are less common in this zone. Carbonate diagenesis in beachrocks is characterized by early cementation. The fringing reef flat is progradationally developed toward the sea. Large massive corals grew in the zone next to the beachrocks. These corals are large, flat-toped, and autochthonous in the production of bioclastic grains and lime mud. Large and massive coral skeletons are surrounded by coral skeletal grains, bioclasts, and lime-mud sediments. The inner reef flat consists mainly of skeletons of branching corals that are covered by bioclasts and lime mud, and living corals are mostly massive in form. Statistical analysis of coral-community dynamics shows that the outer reef flat with strong waves is the most suitable place for hermatypic corals to flourish. There, the living corals are most densely distributed. Both massive corals and branching corals (e.g., Acropora corymbosa) are exceptionally healthy in this zone. Bioclasts and lime mud are washed out due to strong wave action. Microbial carbonates generally are deposited within cavities of the beachrocks and coral skeletal cavities and on the surfaces of bioclastic grains. The latter two types, however, are more common. Ecological-sedimentary zonations across the Xiaodonghai reef flat from beachrocks to outer reef flat are controlled by variations in wave strength and water energy. Microbial carbonates rarely developed on outer reef flat under strong wave action.展开更多
This paper proposes an equation to calculate breaking wave induced wave set-up and set-down along reef flat. The mathematical equation was derived based on the theory of radiation stress and the conservation of wave e...This paper proposes an equation to calculate breaking wave induced wave set-up and set-down along reef flat. The mathematical equation was derived based on the theory of radiation stress and the conservation of wave energy. The equation is primarily determined by several physical variables including the breaking wave index, the stable wave index, the attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux, and the flow velocity in the re-stabilization zone. A series of laboratory experiments were carried out to calibrate the theoretical equations. Specifically, the breaking wave index,the stable wave index, and the velocity over the reef flat were measured in the laboratory. The attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux in our theoretical equation was determined by calibration by comparing with the laboratory measured wave height. Furthermore, it has been put forward that the velocity based on cnoidal wave theory could be used to determine the velocity over the reef flat if there is no velocity measurement available. Overall, the proposed equation can provide satisfactory prediction of wave set-up and set-down along the reef flat.展开更多
文摘Several sets of S4 direction-wave-current-tide meters have been deployed on the coral-reef flat of Yongshu Reef in the sea area of Nansha Islands.Based on the observational sea wave data, the attenuation characteristics of the waves propagating on the coral reef flat, the bottom friction coefficients and the transfer of wave energy are discussed in the paper. The results show that, in the relative depths of 0.0613～0.0867, the wave height attenuation per unit distance of wave propagation is 22.09%～46.56%, with an average of 31.35%; the wave energy attenuation coefficient, 33.74%～53.22%, with an average of 43.61%. The average of the bottom friction coefficients on the coral-reef flat is 0.1346, which is about 10 times that on the sand or silt bottom. In the course of propagation on the reef flat, the waves sustain more loss in high frequency than in low frequency and the spectral energy transfers to the low frequency. These results may be used for reference in island and reef engineering.
基金supported by Knowledge Innovation Program of South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences (Grant No. LYQY200806)National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 40976030 and 40572072)Important Direction Project of Knowledge Innovation Program of the Chinese Academy of Sciences (Grant No. KZCX2-YW-228)
文摘Modern fringing reefs are developed on the intertidal to subtidal area of Xiaodonghai bay, Sanya, Hainan Island. The reef flat extends several dozen meters toward the sea. Various ecological and sedimentary zonations can be distinguished, including, from land to sea, beachrocks, large massive corals, inner reef flat, outer reef flat, and fore-reef slope. The carbonate sediments and constituent hermatypic coral communities are different in these zones. The beachrocks are composed mainly of biological sands, including coral skeletons, algae, gastropods, bivalves, and benthic foraminifera. Quartz sands are less common in this zone. Carbonate diagenesis in beachrocks is characterized by early cementation. The fringing reef flat is progradationally developed toward the sea. Large massive corals grew in the zone next to the beachrocks. These corals are large, flat-toped, and autochthonous in the production of bioclastic grains and lime mud. Large and massive coral skeletons are surrounded by coral skeletal grains, bioclasts, and lime-mud sediments. The inner reef flat consists mainly of skeletons of branching corals that are covered by bioclasts and lime mud, and living corals are mostly massive in form. Statistical analysis of coral-community dynamics shows that the outer reef flat with strong waves is the most suitable place for hermatypic corals to flourish. There, the living corals are most densely distributed. Both massive corals and branching corals (e.g., Acropora corymbosa) are exceptionally healthy in this zone. Bioclasts and lime mud are washed out due to strong wave action. Microbial carbonates generally are deposited within cavities of the beachrocks and coral skeletal cavities and on the surfaces of bioclastic grains. The latter two types, however, are more common. Ecological-sedimentary zonations across the Xiaodonghai reef flat from beachrocks to outer reef flat are controlled by variations in wave strength and water energy. Microbial carbonates rarely developed on outer reef flat under strong wave action.
基金jointly supported by the National Key R&D Program of China (Grant No. 2018YFC0407503)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 51779149)+2 种基金the Scientific Research Project of Yangtze-to-Huaihe Water Diversion Project (Grant No. YJJHYJJC-ZX-20191106220)the Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Special Fund for Basic Scientific Research of Central Public Research Institutes(Grant Nos. Y220002, Y219012 and Y220013)the Water Conservancy Science and Technology Project of Jiangsu Province (Grant No. 2019009)。
文摘This paper proposes an equation to calculate breaking wave induced wave set-up and set-down along reef flat. The mathematical equation was derived based on the theory of radiation stress and the conservation of wave energy. The equation is primarily determined by several physical variables including the breaking wave index, the stable wave index, the attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux, and the flow velocity in the re-stabilization zone. A series of laboratory experiments were carried out to calibrate the theoretical equations. Specifically, the breaking wave index,the stable wave index, and the velocity over the reef flat were measured in the laboratory. The attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux in our theoretical equation was determined by calibration by comparing with the laboratory measured wave height. Furthermore, it has been put forward that the velocity based on cnoidal wave theory could be used to determine the velocity over the reef flat if there is no velocity measurement available. Overall, the proposed equation can provide satisfactory prediction of wave set-up and set-down along the reef flat.
