Numerical simulations of rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines

The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induced currents in the Haller experiment and the ideal arc-shaped coast similar to Sanya Dadonghai, Hainan Province,China. The results showed that the FUNWAVE model has considerable ability to simulate the rip currents, and it was used to further simulate rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines to investigate their characteristics. The rip currents were found to be stronger as the curvature of arc-shaped coastline increased. Coastal beach slope exerts a significant influence on rip currents; in particular, an overly steep or overly mild slope is not conducive to creating rip currents. Furthermore, the rip currents were found to become weaker as the size of arc-shaped coast decreased. When the height and period of waves increase, the strength of rip currents also increases, and, in some cases, wave heights of 0.4 m may produce dangerous rip currents.

Numerical Study of the Secondary Circulations in Rip Current Systems

To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.

Rip Currents Have Least Friction

Surface gravity waves continually come to the beach but rarely go back to sea. They bring excess mass to shore which must be returned offshore. Rip currents do that job because there is less overall friction in the nearshore region than there is in the only other imagined circulation, a two-layer scheme, which has in fact never been seen. An argument is presented to support this proposal. If correct, rip currents join a group of geophysical flow phenomena that persist, probably because there is zero friction associated with them, which include surface gravity waves, tornadoes and hurricanes, individually promoted recently.

THREE-DIMENSIONAL NUMERICAL MODELLING OF THE WAVE-IN-DUCED RIP CURRENTS UNDER IRREGULAR BATHYMETRY

A process-based 3-D hydrodynamic model is established to simulate the rip current structures under irregular bathymetry. The depth-varying wave-induced residual momentum, the surface rollers, the turbulent mixing and the wave-current interactions are considered. Experimental datasets are used to validate the model, and it is shown that the model can effectively describe the 3-D structures of the rip currents in both normal and oblique wave incident cases. The flow patterns of the rip currents see various characteristics for different incident wave directions. In the normal incident case, pairs of counter-rotating primary circulation cells are formed, and an offshore rip flow occurs in the embayment troughs. The peak seaward velocities occur at the top of the bed boundary layer, and the undertow is incorporated in addition to the rip currents. In the oblique incident case, the longshore currents are dominant, which result in a meandering flow along the depth contour, and the undertow is weaker compared to that in the normal incident condition.

Ancient rip current records and their implications: an example from the Cretaceous Ukra Member, Kutch, India

Poorly-sorted conglomerate patches rich in granules or sturdy fossils or both, and reddish mud matrix within the interstices stand out amidst fine-grained siliciclastic shelf sediments of the trangressive systems tract(TST) of the Lower Cretaceous Ukra Member, Kutch Basin, India. The siliciclastic shelf sediments contrast the conglomerates with their remarkable lateral extension. The fossils belong to a low-diversity group of sedentary bivalves that can be traced into the shoreface facies assemblage. The shelf sandstones are almost always sculpted by wave structures,especially hummocky cross-stratification while textures in the conglomerates suggest that the sediment settling was generally from suspensions. Textural variations in conglomerates reflect an immediate variation in flow viscosity prior to the downloading. The current structures obtained from the conglomerates record offshoreward palaeocurrent, in contrast to the shore-parallel palaeocurrent in the TST. The hummocky cross-stratified(HCS) beds are interpreted as seasonal storm deposits, while the conglomerate patches are taken as rip current deposits induced by waves of much longer periods. The glauconite-rich shale that alternates with conglomerates is probable fair-weather products. The conglomerates could not be recognized either in the coarse-grained shoreface deposits occupying the lower part of the overall fining-upward TST or in the coarsening-upward and glauconite-depleted highstand systems tract(HST). In contrast to the TST, the HST is dominantly tide-imprinted, having shore-normal palaeocurrent direction. It appears that intensification of waves and weakening of tides during transgression favored strong rip currents generation, which had presumably caused severe damage to the sea coast and to the shell banks growing preferably at the necks of the rip current channels. Rapid lateral facies transitions in the shoreface deposits at the basal part of the TST suggest enhanced irregularity in the coastline, possibly because of the mega cusps indented upon it. Frequency and intensity of storms enhanced during periods of global warming caused the transgression of the Early Cretaceous Ukra Sea.

埃及亚历山大市Al-Nakheel离岸流水动力模拟案例研究

Al-Nakheel beach is located northwest of Alexandria city,Egypt,along the Mediterranean coast.During the period from 1998 to 2003,seven detached breakwaters were constructed along Al-Nakheel beach to create a sheltered area for swimming.Unfortunately,the structures amplify rip currents,shoreline accretions,and erosions.The aim of this research is to track the variations of the rip currents within the study area and show the effects of the breakwaters on the shoreline.The research is based on the hydrodynamic and morphological data of the study area and uses the Delft3D hydrodynamical model combined with other data analysis tools to serve the model input.The data include measured sea-level observations in 2013,the ERA-interim wave datasets from 2015 to 2018 and wind data in 2018,bed morphologies,and Google Earth satellite images from 2010 to 2020.The model is calibrated on the basis of the available current measurements within the nearshore zone.Results show that the shoreline eroded at an average rate of about 0.9 m/yr.Moreover,pairs of vortices are formed behind the breakwaters with an average current velocity of 0.6 m/s.The predominant northwest waves induce rip currents on the leeside of the structures with velocities reaching 1.2 m/s,associated with the rip pulsation that extends offshore.The problem solution decision recommends the removal of the sand deposition on the leeside of the breakwaters by an average amount of 100000 m3/yr and the fencing of the safe area for swimming by a floating fence of 1000 m length and 65 m average width.

丁坝附近交叉波浪场引起的裂流系统实验研究

裂流是狭窄而集中的离岸方向水流,对海岸水底变形、物质输移和游泳者安全有重要影响。波浪在垂直海岸建筑物(如丁坝、航道挡沙堤等)上产生的反射会导致沿岸驻波,在驻波节点区域由于波高很小会产生裂流,这是海岸出现裂流原因之一。本研究通过物理模型实验给出了沙坝海岸上建筑物附近裂流系统不同于开敞水域交叉波裂流系统的特征,讨论了波高沿岸变化对裂流系统的各裂流单元流量平衡的影响。结果表明:建筑物的存在引起了沙坝和海岸之间背离建筑物方向的沿岸流动,这导致了裂流系统中各裂流单元之间存在着流量的交换,对各单元裂流流量大小和分布产生了直接影响;各单元侧向流流量对裂流的贡献依赖于单元距建筑物的距离。

规则波对沙坝沟槽地形上裂流特性影响的数值研究

针对理想沙坝沟槽型地形,采用Boussinesq相位解析水动力模型模拟了沙坝沟槽地形下裂流的形成过程,着重分析了沙坝沟槽地形对入射波波高、周期、浪向、地形粗糙程度的敏感性.结果表明裂流的强度与入射波波高、入射波周期成正比;与入射波角度和地形粗糙程度成反比.波高及周期的增大会在沙坝靠岸侧堆积大量的水体使得该处的流场分布变得复杂.当入射波的角度增大时离岸流将转换为沿岸流,其强度也将减小.地形摩阻系数的增大使得裂流的延伸距离及沟槽处的流速减小,但其分布宽度变大.以上研究结果对深入了解沿岸沙坝沟槽地形的裂流形成机制及防灾减灾具有一定的参考意义.

海岸裂流的研究进展及其展望

近岸裂流是海岸工程和海岸演变中非常重要的动力因素,对污染物排放和游泳者安全有很重要的意义。详细回顾了国内外对海岸裂流方面的研究与进展,具体包括对裂流的实验室实验和现场观测测量技术、理论分析、裂流的形成机理以及数值模拟等方面,概述了该领域的研究现状与发展趋势。总结了已有研究存在的不足,提出了需要进一步研究的课题。

平直沙坝海岸叠加波浪的裂流试验

为研究叠加波浪场的裂流特征,在平直沙坝海岸地形进行了叠加波浪形成的沿岸波高周期性变化的裂流试验研究。试验中叠加波浪是由波浪在垂直岸线的丁坝反射所形成的两列交叉波浪叠加产生,交叉波浪是具有等频率但入射角相反的两波列。通过对叠加波浪节腹点垂直岸线位置浪高的测量和沙坝范围内沿岸布置的声学多普勒测速仪流速测量结果来分析沙坝海岸丁坝反射波形成的裂流特性,讨论了波浪节腹点对裂流位置和裂流空间尺度的影响。对不同周期情况在x=5 m沙坝顶处的速度剖面对比,分析了不同周期对裂流的影响。

基于地形动力学的海滩裂流安全性评价——以三亚大东海为例

文章基于海滩地形动力学模型建立了海滩安全性评价方法,认为低潮沙坝/裂流海滩类和沙坝类海滩出现裂流概率最大,沙坝消散类和有裂流的低潮台地类海滩裂流风险中等,没有裂流的低潮台地海滩、没有沙坝的消散海滩、超消散型、完全反射型海滩裂流风险很小。以三亚大东海为例,利用该评价方法分析了海滩溺水事故频发的原因,结果显示:1)该海滩状态以沙坝型和低潮沙坝/裂流海滩型为主,属于高风险海滩,此结论与当地救生实践吻合;2)该海滩溺水事故发生的根本原因为裂流危险性高,故容易发生溺水事故。

我国典型滨海旅游区裂流灾害评估调查及风险管理动态

为填补滨海旅游灾害防范的空白,文章详细介绍了国家海洋局海洋减灾中心着手开展我国典型滨海旅游区裂流危险评估、安全警示、公众科普等技术工作。归纳总结了地形动力学概化分析、精细化数值模拟、遥感影像分析、现场勘测等裂流灾害危险性评价技术方法;详细介绍了我国海南省三亚、陵水地区重点滨海旅游岸段的裂流灾害风险及安全警示现状的调查评估情况;分析探讨了近期国内频繁出现的海滩裂流溺水事故以及国内裂流灾害公众科普宣传动态;并提出了滨海旅游灾害防范下一步的专业技术工作和科学探索方面可能的发展方向。

裂流的研究综述

详细回顾了各国在裂流方面的研究和成果,着重介绍了几个比较典型的经验预报方法:LURCS、ECFL LURCS、modified ECFL LURCS、CAP-LURCS以及两个数值模型FUNWAVE、XBeach,期望能对发展我国自己的裂流预报系统具有一定的参考意义。

准三维波生近岸流数学模型在裂流研究中的应用

阐述了一种考虑波流耦合作用的准三维近岸流模型SHORECIRC,该模型耦合了REF/DIF波浪模型(折/绕射模型)对近岸流进行模拟计算。基于该模型,将模拟结果与Borthwick等人在英国海岸工程研究所做的实验进行对比,验证了模型的正确性和适用性。在此基础上,进一步分析了波浪入射波高、入射角度、底摩阻及驼峰高度对裂流的影响,得出了一些有用的结论。

基于地形动力学的华南海滩裂流风险研究

海滩是人们海滨旅游首选目的地,具有重要的旅游经济价值。裂流是海滨旅游的潜在威胁,已经造成了重大的生命和财产损失。本文基于?-RTR海滩状态模型(?为无维沉降速率参数,RTR为相对潮差)提出了海滩裂流风险评价方法,在收集华南沿海51个海滩波浪要素、潮差、泥沙粒径等地形动力要素的基础上,对海滩裂流风险进行了初步评估。结果表明福建南部岸段、粤东的汕尾岸段、粤西的阳江、茂名岸段、海南的东部岸段和南部岸段裂流风险最大。通过与遥感图像和有关的报道比较,探讨了评估结果的合理性。本文结果可为海滩浴场的选址和管理提供参考,但对具体海滩裂流风险评估还需做更多现场观测。

缓坡开槽沙坝海岸裂流特性分析

为了研究缓坡裂流槽地形叠加波浪的裂流特征,进行了由反射墙反射的交叉波浪叠加形成的沿岸波高周期性变化所产生的裂流实验研究,分析在开裂流槽的缓坡开槽沙坝模型实验地形随机波浪交叉叠加形成的裂流特性。实验中裂流由波浪在垂直岸线的直墙上的反射所形成的2列交叉的波浪生成,交叉波浪由具有等波幅和等频率但入射角相反的2波列叠加产生的。通过对交叉叠加波浪下裂流槽附近范围的波高分布、波浪增减水和ADV流速测量结果分析了缓坡地形开槽沙坝情况下的裂流特性。裂流槽和两侧沙坝位置形成的波浪破碎不同步产生的沿岸平均波面压力梯度是产生裂流的原因。不同周期引起的叠加波浪节腹点位置的变化影响裂流槽中裂流的形态,表明周期和裂流槽共同影响着沟槽中的裂流特性。

湛江东海岛裂流风险评价

裂流是海滩旅游中重要的安全隐患,国内目前还很少有裂流风险的评价研究。文章基于地形动力学模型对湛江东海岛海滩裂流风险从年平均、逐月平均和逐月常浪向状况下进行了评价。结果表明:(1)东海岛海滩全年平均状态为沙坝消散型海滩,一年四季出现裂流的概率较大,为中等危险性的海滩;(2)逐月平均海滩类型以沙坝消散型为主,但在6—7月海滩类型为低潮沙坝/裂流型,海滩风险等级最高,8月的月平均海滩状态为无沙坝消散型,属于危险性较低海滩,但此时波浪向为SE向时,海滩状态变成低潮沙坝/裂流型,裂流风险等级很高;(3)海滩管理者要重视对海滩裂流风险的管理。

深圳西涌滨海旅游区海滩裂流风险评估及特征分析

基于海滩地形动力学、遥感影像的风险预识别以及现场排查等方法,对西涌滨海旅游区海滩裂流风险进行了初步评估。评估结果表明:地形动力分析结果显示,西涌滨海旅游区泳场逐月平均沙滩类型大部分是沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B),风险等级高;影像特征判断该沙滩属于沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B)或者低潮位附近伴有冲流沙坝及裂流沟槽的低潮沙坝裂流型(LTBR),裂流风险等级高;历史影像和现场调研均发现该海滩发生过裂流;综合判定该海滩裂流风险等级为高。但鉴于观测资料限制和评价方法自身局限性的影响,本次排查结论仅为初步结论,其合理性尚需更加深入的研究。

华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故,自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查,在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果,本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性,尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化,冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中,裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区,但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时,部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明,当入射角达到10°~30°时,沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时,较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应,导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测,以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。

裂流危险性的数值预报方法及其在三亚大东海浴场的应用

在简要综述裂流观测和预报进展的基础上,提出了一种裂流危险性的数值预报流程,并以三亚大东海浴场为例进行了裂流危险性后报试验。采用GPU并行加速的全非线性Boussinesq波动模型(FUNWAVE-GPU),在大东海浴场建立了水平分辨率为1 m的波动及波生流数值模型。通过施加不同潮位、入射波高、波周期和入射角度,考察裂流的产生和时空分布特征,结果发现入射波高及入射波周期的增大会使裂流空间尺度和流速明显增加,低潮位时更易产生裂流。将国家海洋环境预报中心提供的三亚外海波浪谱作为FUNWAVE-GPU的开边界条件,以离岸流强度及其持续时间作为裂流危险性等级的判定标准,绘制了国内首幅基于数值预报的裂流危险性等级图。