The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be ...The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be extended and applicated to the study of the mechanism. Considering the effects of moving bottoms and starting from the Navier-Stokes equation of motion of a vinous fluid including the Coriolis force, a generalized mean-flow medel theory for the nearshore region, that is, a set of mean-flow equations and their generalized wave action equation involving the three new kinds of actions termed respectively as the current wave action, the bottom wave action and the dissipative wave action which can be applied to arbitrary depth over moving bottoms and ambient currents with a typical vertical structure, is developed by vertical integration and time-averaglng over a wave peried, thus extending the classical concept, wave action, from the ideal averaged flow conservative system to the real averaged flow dissipative dynamical system, and having a large range of application.展开更多
The Hamiltonian formalism for surface waves and the mild-slope approximation were empolyed in handling the case of slowly varying three-dimensional currents and an uneven bottom, thus leading to an extended mild-slope...The Hamiltonian formalism for surface waves and the mild-slope approximation were empolyed in handling the case of slowly varying three-dimensional currents and an uneven bottom, thus leading to an extended mild-slope equation. The bottom topography consists of two components: the slowly varying component whose horizontal length scale is longer than the surface wave length, and the fast varying component with the amplitude being smaller than that of the surface wave. ne frequency of the fast varying depth component is, however, comparable to that of the surface waves. The extended mild-slope equation is more widely applicable and contains as special cases famous mild-slope equations below: the classical mild-slope equation of Berkhoff, Kirby's mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. The extended shallow water equations for ambient currents and rapidly varying topography are also obtained.展开更多
基金This paper was supported bythe Foundationforthe Author of National Excellent Doctoral Dissertation of P.R.China(Grant No.200428) the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .10272072 and 50424913) +1 种基金theShanghai Natural Science Foundation (Grant No.05ZR14048) the Shanghai Leading Academic Discipline Pro-ject (Grant No. Y0103)
文摘The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be extended and applicated to the study of the mechanism. Considering the effects of moving bottoms and starting from the Navier-Stokes equation of motion of a vinous fluid including the Coriolis force, a generalized mean-flow medel theory for the nearshore region, that is, a set of mean-flow equations and their generalized wave action equation involving the three new kinds of actions termed respectively as the current wave action, the bottom wave action and the dissipative wave action which can be applied to arbitrary depth over moving bottoms and ambient currents with a typical vertical structure, is developed by vertical integration and time-averaglng over a wave peried, thus extending the classical concept, wave action, from the ideal averaged flow conservative system to the real averaged flow dissipative dynamical system, and having a large range of application.
文摘The Hamiltonian formalism for surface waves and the mild-slope approximation were empolyed in handling the case of slowly varying three-dimensional currents and an uneven bottom, thus leading to an extended mild-slope equation. The bottom topography consists of two components: the slowly varying component whose horizontal length scale is longer than the surface wave length, and the fast varying component with the amplitude being smaller than that of the surface wave. ne frequency of the fast varying depth component is, however, comparable to that of the surface waves. The extended mild-slope equation is more widely applicable and contains as special cases famous mild-slope equations below: the classical mild-slope equation of Berkhoff, Kirby's mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. The extended shallow water equations for ambient currents and rapidly varying topography are also obtained.
