When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of su...When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%.展开更多
An improvement was proposed for the statistical theory of breaking entrainment depth and surface whitecap coverage of real sea waves in this study.The ratio of the kinetic and potential energy was estimated on a theor...An improvement was proposed for the statistical theory of breaking entrainment depth and surface whitecap coverage of real sea waves in this study.The ratio of the kinetic and potential energy was estimated on a theoretical level,and optimal constants were determined to improve the statistical theory model for wave breaking.We also performed a sensitivity test to the model constants.A comparison between the model and in situ observations indicated that the level of agreement was better than has been achieved in previous studies.展开更多
The pro and con of whitecap parameterizations and a statistical wave breaking model are discussed. An improved model is derived by combining satellite-based parameterization and the wave breaking model. The appropriat...The pro and con of whitecap parameterizations and a statistical wave breaking model are discussed. An improved model is derived by combining satellite-based parameterization and the wave breaking model. The appropriate constants for the general wave state are obtained by considering the breaking condition of the wave slope and fitting with the satellite-based parameterization. The result is close to the constants based on the whitecap data from Monahan. Comparing with satellite-based data and the original model＇s results, the improved model＇s results are consistent with satellite-based data and previous studies. The global seasonal distributions of the whitecap coverage averaged from 1998 to 2008 are presented. Spatial and seasonal features of the whitecap coverage are analyzed.展开更多
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076048 and 40906044
文摘When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%.
基金supported by the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China(Grant No.2013AA09A506)the National Natural Science Foundation of ChinaShandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers(Grant No. U1406404)+2 种基金the Youth Natural Foundation of Shandong Province(Grant No.ZR2015PD009)the Scientific and Technological Innovation Project Financially Supported by Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology(Grant No.2015ASKJ01)the Youth Science Foundation of China-Indonesia Maritime Cooperation Fund(Grant No. YZ0115005)
文摘An improvement was proposed for the statistical theory of breaking entrainment depth and surface whitecap coverage of real sea waves in this study.The ratio of the kinetic and potential energy was estimated on a theoretical level,and optimal constants were determined to improve the statistical theory model for wave breaking.We also performed a sensitivity test to the model constants.A comparison between the model and in situ observations indicated that the level of agreement was better than has been achieved in previous studies.
基金The National Key Basic Research Program(973 Program)of China under contract No.2010CB950404the National High Technology Research and Development Program(863 Program)of China under contract No.2013AA09A506+1 种基金the Basic Scientific Fund for National Public Research Institutes of China under contract No.GY0214G01the Ocean Renewable Energy Special Fund Project of the State Oceanic Administration of China under contract No.GHME2011ZC07
文摘The pro and con of whitecap parameterizations and a statistical wave breaking model are discussed. An improved model is derived by combining satellite-based parameterization and the wave breaking model. The appropriate constants for the general wave state are obtained by considering the breaking condition of the wave slope and fitting with the satellite-based parameterization. The result is close to the constants based on the whitecap data from Monahan. Comparing with satellite-based data and the original model＇s results, the improved model＇s results are consistent with satellite-based data and previous studies. The global seasonal distributions of the whitecap coverage averaged from 1998 to 2008 are presented. Spatial and seasonal features of the whitecap coverage are analyzed.
