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Infragravity Waves Produced by Wave Groups on Beaches 被引量:1
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作者 ZOU Zhi-li(邹志利) +1 位作者 CHANG Mei(常梅) 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2003年第4期551-564,共14页
The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two Plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal ... The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two Plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed. 展开更多
关键词 surf beat infragravity waves time operator splitting
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