LOCAL BIFURCATION OF STEADY ALMOST PERIODIC WATER WAVES WITH CONSTANT VORTICITY

In this paper we investigate the traveling wave solution of the two dimensional Euler equations with gravity at the free surface over a flat bed.We assume that the free surface is almost periodic in the horizontal direction.Using conformal mappings,one can change the free boundary problem into a fixed boundary problem for some unknown functions with the boundary condition.By virtue of the Hilbert transform,the problem is equivalent to a quasilinear pseudodifferential equation for an almost periodic function of one variable.The bifurcation theory ensures that we can obtain an existence result.Our existence result generalizes and covers the recent result in[15].Moreover,our result implies a non-uniqueness result at the same bifurcation point.

Residual symmetry, CRE integrability and interaction solutions of two higher-dimensional shallow water wave equations

Two(3+1)-dimensional shallow water wave equations are studied by using residual symmetry and the consistent Riccati expansion(CRE) method. Through localization of residual symmetries, symmetry reduction solutions of the two equations are obtained. The CRE method is applied to the two equations to obtain new B?cklund transformations from which a type of interesting interaction solution between solitons and periodic waves is generated.

Study on the Interaction of Water Waves with Semi-Circular Breakwater

The present study investigates the interaction of steep waves with semi-circular breakwater with the complex plane's Cauchy boundary integral theorem. The boundary integral method is used to transform the calculation in fluid domain into its boundary alone. In the calculation the computation domain is moved with the propagation of waves. A numerical solution is obtained for incident Stokes waves passing the submerged obstacles. This method has been extended to the calculation of wave run-up on a slope for estimating wave overtopping.

WATER WAVES IN AN ELASTIC VESSEL

Linear and nonlinear analyses of water waves in an elastic vessel are carried out to study the dramatic phenomena of Dragon Wash as well as related controllable experiments. It is proposed that the capillary edge waves are generated by parametric resonance, which is shown to be a possible mechanism for both rectangular an circular vessels. For circular vessel, the normal geometric resonance is also operating, thus greatly. enhance the dramatic effect. The mechanism of nonlinear mode-mode interaction is proposed far the generation of axisymmetric low-frequency gravity waves by the high-frequency external excitation. A simple model system is studied numerically to demonstrate explicitly this interaction mechanism.

THEORY OF WATER WAVES IN AN ELASTIC VESSEL

Recent experiments related to the Dragon Wash phenomena showed that axisymmetric capillary waves appear first from excitation, and circumferential capillary waves appear after increase of the excitation strength. Based on this new finding, a theory of parametric resonance is developed in detail to explain the on- set of the prominent circumferential capillary waves. Numerical computation is also carried out and the results agree generally with the experiments. Analysis and nu- merical computation are also presented to explain the generation of axisymmetric low-frequency gravity waves by tile high-frequency external excitation.

Modified (2+1)-dimensional displacement shallow water wave system and its approximate similarity solutions

Recently, a new （2＋1）-dimensional shallow water wave system, the （2＋1）-dlmenslonal displacement shallow water wave system （2DDSWWS）, was constructed by applying the variational principle of the analytic mechanics in the Lagrange coordinates. The disadvantage is that fluid viscidity is not considered in the 2DDSWWS, which is the same as the famous Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and Korteweg-de Vries equation. Applying dimensional analysis, we modify the 2DDSWWS and add the term related to the fluid viscidity to the 2DDSWWS. The approximate similarity solutions of the modified 2DDSWWS （M2DDSWWS） is studied and four similarity solutions are obtained. For the perfect fluids, the coefficient of kinematic viscosity is zero, then the M2DDSWWS will degenerate to the 2DDSWWS.

On the Fourier approximation method for steady water waves

A computational method for steady water waves is presented on the basis of potential theory in the physical plane with spatial variables as independent quantities. The finite Fourier series are applied to approximating the free surface and potential function. A set of nonlinear algebraic equations for the Fourier coefficients are derived from the free surface kinetic and dynamic boundary conditions. These algebraic equations are numerically solved through Newton＇s iterative method, and the iterative stability is further improved by a relaxation technology. The integral properties of steady water waves are numerically analyzed, showing that （1） the set-up and the set-down are both non-monotonic quantities with the wave steepness, and （2） the Fourier spectrum of the free surface is broader than that of the potential function. The latter further leads us to explore a modification for the present method by approximating the free surface and potential function through different Fourier series, with the truncation of the former higher than that of the latter. Numerical tests show that this modification is effective, and can notably reduce the errors of the free surface boundary conditions.

Bifurcation analysis and exact traveling wave solutions for (2+1)-dimensional generalized modified dispersive water wave equation

We investigate (2+1)-dimensional generalized modified dispersive water wave (GMDWW) equation by utilizing the bifurcation theory of dynamical systems. We give the phase portraits and bifurcation analysis of the plane system corresponding to the GMDWW equation. By using the special orbits in the phase portraits, we analyze the existence of the traveling wave solutions. When some parameter takes special values, we obtain abundant exact kink wave solutions, singular wave solutions, periodic wave solutions, periodic singular wave solutions, and solitary wave solutions for the GMDWW equation.

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.

Hydrodynamic interactions of water waves with a group of independently oscillating truncated circular cylinders

In this study, we examine the water wave radiation by arrays of truncated circular cylinders. Each cylinder can oscillate independently in any rigid oscillation mode with a prescribed amplitude, including translational and rotational modes such as surge, sway, heave, pitch, roll, and their combinations. Based on the eigenfunction expansion and Graf＇s addition theorem for Bessel functions, we developed an analytical method that includes the effects of evanescent modes in order to analyze such arrays of cylinders. To investigate the effects of several influential factors on convergence,our objective is to dramatically reduce the number of tests required and determine the influencing relationships between truncation number and convergence behavior for different factor combinations. We use the orthogonal test method to fulfill the objective. Lastly, we present our results regarding the effects of evanescent modes on hydrodynamic coefficients.

On the Fifth-Order Stokes Solution for Steady Water Waves

This paper presents a universal fifth-order Stokes solution for steady water waves on the basis of potential theory. It uses a global perturbation parameter, considers a depth uniform current, and thus admits the flexibilities on the definition of the perturbation parameter and on the determination of the wave celerity. The universal solution can be extended to that of Chappelear （1961）, confirming the correctness for the universal theory. Furthermore, a particular fifth-order solution is obtained where the wave steepness is used as the perturbation parameter. The applicable range of this solution in shallow depth is analyzed. Comparisons with the Fourier approximated results and with the experimental measurements show that the solution is fairly suited to waves with the Ursell number not exceeding 46.7.

Scattering of Oblique Water Waves by Two Unequal Surface-Piercing Vertical Thin Plates with Stepped Bottom Topography

Based on linear water-wave theory, this study investigated the scattering of oblique incident water waves by two unequal surface-piercing thin vertical rigid plates with stepped bottom topography. By using the matched eigenfunction expansion method and a least square approach, the analytical solutions are sought for the established boundary value problem. The effects of the incidence angle, location of step, depth ratio of deep to shallow waters,and column width between two plates, on the reflection coefficients, the horizontal wave forces acting on the two plates, and the mean surface elevation between the two plates, are numerically examined under a variety of wave conditions. The results show that the existence of the stepped bottom between two plates considerably impacts the hydrodynamic performances of the present system. It is found that the effect of stepped bottom on the reflection coefficient of the present two-plate structure is evident only with waves of the low dimensionless frequency.Moreover, the influence of the step location on the hydrodynamic performance of the present two-plate structure is slight if the step is placed in between the two plates.

Numerical Modeling of Water Wave Interaction with A Soft Mud Bed

A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into account nonlinear rheology, a semi-empirical rheological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.

Kinetic Flux Vector Splitting Method for the Shallow Water Wave Equations

Based on the analogy to gas dynamics, the kinetic flux vector splitting (KFVS) method is used to stimulate the shallow water wave equations. The flux vectors of the equations are split on the basis of the local equilibrium Maxwell-Boltzmann distribution. One dimensional examples including a dam breaking wave and flows over a ridge are calculated. The solutions exhibit second-order accuracy with no spurious oscillation.

Comparative Study of Different SPH Schemes on Simulating Violent Water Wave Impact Flows

Free surface flows are of significant interest in Computational Fluid Dynamics（CFD）. However, violent water wave impact simulation especially when free surface breaks or impacts on solid wall can be a big challenge for many CFD techniques. Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics（SPH） has been reported as a robust and reliable method for simulating violent free surface flows. Weakly compressible SPH（WCSPH） uses an equation of state with a large sound speed, and the results of the WCSPH can induce a noisy pressure field and spurious oscillation of pressure in time history for wave impact problem simulation. As a remedy, the truly incompressible SPH（ISPH） technique was introduced, which uses a pressure Poisson equation to calculate the pressure. Although the pressure distribution in the whole field obtained by ISPH is smooth, the stability of the techniques is still an open discussion. In this paper, a new free surface identification scheme and solid boundary handling method are introduced to improve the accuracy of ISPH. This modified ISPH is used to study dam breaking flow and violent tank sloshing flows. On the comparative study of WCSPH and ISPH, the accuracy and efficiency are assessed and the results are compared with the experimental data.

THE ANALYSIS OF FORMING THE BULGE IN A SPILLING WATER WAVE

The early stages of a spilling breaking water wave leading to the formation of a bulge on the forward face of the wave are investigated. In this study, simultaneous space-time measurements of the free-surface elevation of a spilling breaking water wave are recorded and analyzed. The analysis, carried out in the frame of reference moving with the crest of the wave, reveals that the formation of the bulge is due to the presence of a shock-like mode. In the previous frame of reference, the shock itself is unsteady but its (spatial) location is time independent and coincides with the ''toe'' of the bulge. As time increases, the shock undergoes a flip (a reflection symmetry) with respect to the midpoint of our time interval. Such a flip is responsible for an abrupt increase of the wave steepness, which will lead to wave breaking at later times. Following these observations, we present a two-dimensional quantitative model which reproduces both the formation of the bulge and the sudden increase of the wave steepness.

Variational Principles and Hamiltonian Formulation for Nonlinear Water Waves

Ｖａｒｉａｔｉｏｎａｌｐｒｉｎｃｉｐｌｅｓｍａｙｓｕｃｃｉｎｃｔｌｙｌｅａｄｔｏｅｑｕａｔｉｏｎｓｏｆｍｏｔｉｏｎｆｏｒｗａｔｅｒｗａｖｅｓ，ａｌｏｗｉｎｓｉｇｈｔｉｎｔｏｔｈｅｅｆｅｃｔｏｆｐａｒａｍｅｔｅｒｓ，ａｎｄｐｒｏｖｉｄｅａｐａｔｈｆｏｒ...

Applications of sediment sudden deposition model based on the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave

The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.

An adaptive artificial viscosity for the displacement shallow water wave equation

The numerical oscillation problem is a difficulty for the simulation of rapidly varying shallow water surfaces which are often caused by the unsmooth uneven bottom,the moving wet-dry interface,and so on.In this paper,an adaptive artificial viscosity(AAV)is proposed and combined with the displacement shallow water wave equation(DSWWE)to establish an effective model which can accurately predict the evolution of multiple shocks effected by the uneven bottom and the wet-dry interface.The effectiveness of the proposed AAV is first illustrated by using the steady-state solution and the small perturbation analysis.Then,the action mechanism of the AAV on the shallow water waves with the uneven bottom is explained by using the Fourier theory.It is shown that the AVV can suppress the wave with the large wave number,and can also suppress the numerical oscillations for the rapidly varying bottom.Finally,four numerical examples are given,and the numerical results show that the DSWWE combined with the AAV can effectively simulate the shock waves,accurately capture the movements of wet-dry interfaces,and precisely preserve the mass.

THE DESIGN OF CHARACTERIZING-INTEGRAI SCHEMES AND THE APPLICATION TO THE SHALLOW WATER WAVE PROBLEMS

In this paper a new approach for designing upwind type schemes-the characterizing-integral method and its applied skills are introduced. The method is simple, convenient and eff ective. And the method isn 't only limited to conservation laws unlike other methods and maybe easily extended to multi-dimension problems. Furthermore, the numerical dissipation of the method can be flexibly regulated, so that it is especially suitable for solving various discontinuity problems.The paper shows us now to use this approach to simulate deformation and breaking of a nonlinear shallow water wave on a gentle slope, and to compute two-dimensional dam failure problem.