In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived. A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber spa...In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived. A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation. The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed. The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct. It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which are identical to a conventional action balance equation.展开更多
Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerica...Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were nm to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Sommerfeld＇s analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave diffraction for the two eases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger diffraction ease.展开更多
基金supported by the Science Council,with contract number NSC95-2221-E-006-462Research Center of Ocean Environment and Technology,under the contract NCKU-NSYSU
文摘In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived. A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation. The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed. The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct. It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which are identical to a conventional action balance equation.
基金supported by the Special Fund of State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering(Grant No.2009585812)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.50979033)the Programfor New Century Excellent Talentsin University of China(Grant No.NCET-07-0255)
文摘Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were nm to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Sommerfeld＇s analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave diffraction for the two eases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger diffraction ease.
