Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0...Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of Lime-stepping integration are determined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occurs just before the wave crest, and the average ratio of the maximum velocity to wave celerity is about 0.98. The numerical results also show that the asymmetry of wave profiles affects the value of the wave breaking index (H/d) (b), that is, when the asymmetric characteristics are weak, the value of wave breaking index coincides with that given by Goda; on the contrary, when the asymmetry of wave profiles is notable, the value of wave breaking index is close to Nelson's result. The experimental study gives the same conclusions.展开更多
An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and t...An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regular waves on very mild slopes. The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influence of bottom slope l, relative water depth d/ L-0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regular waves. The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, while the coefficient A should be 0.15. The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wave theory is 0.74. Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after breaking and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.展开更多
基金This project was supported financially by National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876026)
文摘Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of Lime-stepping integration are determined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occurs just before the wave crest, and the average ratio of the maximum velocity to wave celerity is about 0.98. The numerical results also show that the asymmetry of wave profiles affects the value of the wave breaking index (H/d) (b), that is, when the asymmetric characteristics are weak, the value of wave breaking index coincides with that given by Goda; on the contrary, when the asymmetry of wave profiles is notable, the value of wave breaking index is close to Nelson's result. The experimental study gives the same conclusions.
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876026) Research Foundation for Development of Engineering Technical Code of Ministry of Communication
文摘An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regular waves on very mild slopes. The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influence of bottom slope l, relative water depth d/ L-0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regular waves. The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, while the coefficient A should be 0.15. The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wave theory is 0.74. Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after breaking and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.
