On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins, the statistical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derived theoretically. The deri...On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins, the statistical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derived theoretically. The derived distribution is similar to that of wave surface maxima, and a new spectral width epsilon(u), which is defined as (1 - m(3)(2)/m(2)m(4))(1/2), is introduced in the distribution. When epsilon(u) tends to zero, the distribution is reduced to Rayleigh distribution and it is reduced to the normal distribution when epsilon(u) tends to unity. For a narrow spectrum, it is proved that epsilon is equal to 1/2 epsilon, where epsilon is (1 - m(2)(2)/m(0)m(4))(1/2) and is the commonly used spectral width.展开更多
基金This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.(No.49676274)
文摘On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins, the statistical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derived theoretically. The derived distribution is similar to that of wave surface maxima, and a new spectral width epsilon(u), which is defined as (1 - m(3)(2)/m(2)m(4))(1/2), is introduced in the distribution. When epsilon(u) tends to zero, the distribution is reduced to Rayleigh distribution and it is reduced to the normal distribution when epsilon(u) tends to unity. For a narrow spectrum, it is proved that epsilon is equal to 1/2 epsilon, where epsilon is (1 - m(2)(2)/m(0)m(4))(1/2) and is the commonly used spectral width.
