改革开放初期《时装》杂志封面女性形象演变

随着改革开放的不断推进,20世纪80年代的《时装》杂志封面女性形象演变发生了巨大变化,呈现出了当时社会多元化发展的状况,展现了80年代的社会风貌,反映了80年代最本质的社会文化和经济状况。本文将20世纪80年代《时装》杂志女性形象主体的建构主要分为妆发形象、服装形象和身形姿态形象三个部分,来归纳女性形象演变过程,并探析其深层次的演变原因。在信息尚不发达的时代,《时装》杂志封面女性形象通过发行,给人们树立了现代女性的新形象具有重大意义。处于改革开放的80年代是中西方多元文化的交融辉煌时代,成为了80年代中国社会女性形象的一个文化缩影。

Rolling horizon scheduling algorithm for dynamic vehicle scheduling system

Dynamic exclusive pickup and delivery problem with time windows (DE-PDPTW), aspecial dynamic vehicle scheduling problem, is proposed. Its mathematical description is given andits static properties are analyzed, and then the problem is simplified asthe asymmetrical travelingsalesman problem with time windows. The rolling horizon scheduling algorithm (RHSA) to solve thisdynamic problem is proposed. By the rolling of time horizon, the RHSA can adapt to the problem'sdynamic change and reduce the computation time by dealing with only part of the customers in eachrolling time horizon. Then, its three factors, the current customer window, the scheduling of thecurrent customer window and the rolling strategy, are analyzed. The test results demonstrate theeffectiveness of the RHSA to solve the dynamic vehicle scheduling problem.

小幽默

有位太太走进一家商店，指着一堆化妆品对店主说道：“这些有什么用处吗？”

Effects of Dressing Poses on Clothing Thermal Insulation

With a thermal manikin, the effects of dressing poses on clothing thermal insulation are studied. It is found that the thermal insulation of still air layer over human body has not been influenced by the dressing poses, but the dressing poses have effects on the thermal insulation of clothing system.

Optimization of assembly line balancing using genetic algorithm

In a manufacturing industry, mixed model assembly line(MMAL) is preferred in order to meet the variety in product demand. MMAL balancing helps in assembling products with similar characteristics in a random fashion. The objective of this work aims in reducing the number of workstations, work load index between stations and within each station. As manual contribution of workers in final assembly line is more, ergonomics is taken as an additional objective function. Ergonomic risk level of a workstation is evaluated using a parameter called accumulated risk posture(ARP), which is calculated using rapid upper limb assessment(RULA) check sheet. This work is based on the case study of an MMAL problem in Rane(Madras) Ltd.(India), in which a problem based genetic algorithm(GA) has been proposed to minimize the mentioned objectives. The working of the genetic operators such as selection, crossover and mutation has been modified with respect to the addressed MMAL problem. The results show that there is a significant impact over productivity and the process time of the final assembled product, i.e., the rate of production is increased by 39.5% and the assembly time for one particular model is reduced to 13 min from existing 18 min. Also, the space required using the proposed assembly line is only 200 m2 against existing 350 m2. Further, the algorithm helps in reducing workers fatigue(i.e., ergonomic friendly).

Shanghai's Fashion During Republic Period

The goal of this research is to describe and analyze Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period. Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period plays a special role in fashion history of China and Shanghai history. In the paper, three aspects including the fashion centre of China as well as Far East, men’s fashion and women’s fashion in Shanghai are discussed. The style, textiles, color, decoration and combination of clothing are described. Many costumes from the Clothing Museum at Donghua University and private collections as well as some historical writings, photographs and publications are elucidated and corroborated to give a more detailed description about Shanghai’s fashion during that period.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Shanghai had always been the fashion center in China even Far East during Republic Period. Modeng was the main reflection of Shanghai fashion. Secondly, the traditional clothing exerted less influence and was less widely used, some kinds and combinations were out of fashion gradually. The fashion was described to be highly stylized, exquisite and concise. Thirdly, the influence of Western Style was further greater. The fashion in Shanghai was almost synchronous with fashion of Paris. Some western clothing was directly used in daily life and the elements of Western Style had an increasingly wide utilization. Fourthly, the New Chinese Style whose representatives were Qipao and Zhongshan Zhuang appeared and popularized in Shanghai. The fashion of Qipao changed frequently. Finally, the fashion in Shanghai called Shanghai Style could be summarized fashionable, exquisite, rapidly changeable, which is harmonious of both ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign.

Combination of Daur Clothing Decorative Art and Modern Fashion Design

On today＇s clothes market and international fashion stage, the dress adornment elements of ethnic minorities have always deeply impressed design masters, received great attention and, are constantly surprising fashion designers. China is a country with multiple ethnic minorities, which have extremely rich ethnic minority dresses and adornment elements. On studying the major dress adornment elements of the Daur, a typical ethnic minority in northern China, we have discovered their strong ethnic features. The major dress adornment elements of the Daur were with the purpose to explore and continue traditions. Combining the modern faskion design with the delicate decorative art that the Daur people sew various laces and embroideries on their dresses, was to discover and use the essence of Chinese ethnic dress and adornments, and demonstrate the talent of ethnic minorities in clothes design. Given what have been founded, combined with the application of modern design methods, the adornment elements of ethnic dresses can represent their ethnic characteristics as well as reflecting the sense of the modern age.

AHP-Based Optimal Selection of Garment Sizes for Online Shopping

Garment online shopping has been accepted by more and more consumers in recent years. In online shopping, a buyer only chooses the garment size judged by his own experience without trying-on, so the selected garment may not be the fittest one for the buyer due to the variety of body's figures. Thus, we propose a method of optimal selection of garment sizes for online shopping based on Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP). The hierarchical structure model for optimal selection of garment sizes is structured and the fittest garment for a buyer is found by calculating the matching degrees between individual's measurements and the corresponding key-part values of ready-to-wear clothing sizes. In order to demonstrate its feasibility, we provide an example of selecting the fittest sizes of men's bottom. The result shows that the proposed method is useful in online clothing sales application.

拷问孤独——张献剧作论

提到中国当代先锋戏剧,人们往往只注意到它的大本营北京,其实上海的赵耀民、谷亦安、曹路生、张献等也在进行着不同程度的先锋实验.

A Web-based Intelligent Fashion Design System

A web-based fashion design system-FashDesn was developed for non-professionals to make their own style-based design by choosing and combining fashion parts. We use genetic algorithm to find the optimal satisfied style, while the fitness function of GA is approached by artificial neural network. The users’ style intention can be reached through the learning process of the artificial neural network. The system architecture and some realization details of the system are given in the paper. An output contrast for elegant style women’s before and after user’s interaction is used to illustrate its usefulness in the end.

Practice of Italian Trend Book in China

In the past five years, trendy information spread via imported renowned fashion magazines appeared unable to satisfy the industrial needs. Trend books from Milan and Paris have been introduced to big cities in China through official Chinese national agencies, and have gradually drawn more attention within the Chinese fashion industry. Chinese fashion businesses and their designers have difficulties in using the trend book. The main reason is that they don’t understand the whole structure re of the book, the true meaning of the instruction and the way to use the book. Most companies are not using the book in the correct way. However, if no one realizes this is not the right key to the real fashion design world, an incorrect design logic and abnormal production chain will appear in China which will directly produce an unhealthy impact to the country. It’s only possible to catch up and grasp the real European trend with Europe at the same time when the trend books are used correctly.

Line-shape calculation method for suspension bridge catwalk considering different states of bearing cables

The line-shape of catwalk of long-span suspension bridge is obtained by using the segmental catenary method to carry out the iterative calculation, where all the bearing cables are considered as one cable, and transversal passages and gantry are treated as nodes which divide the catwalk into several segments. The difference of line-shape and force between catwalk bearing cable and gantry bearing cable is not usually considered, but the line-shape of two kinds of cables is actually inconsistent because of the constraints from gantries. Based on the segmental catenary method, considering the different states of bearing cables （ DSB calculation method）, fine calculation is carried out. This method is applied to the design of a suspension bridge＇ s catwalk, and is compared with the traditional calculation method. It is obtained that the result is more reasonable and accurate by the coordination calculation method considering different states for two kinds of load-bearing cables, which is worth considering in the nrocess of design and optimization for catwalk.

“Nonwoven” Versus “Engineered Fabric”: the Impact These Terms Have on the 15-to 25-Year-Old Females' Intent to Purchase

Since the fall of 2004, textile and apparel students at a United States public university have been designing apparel with nonwoven fabrics. Over the last two years, the students＇ designs have sparked interest in the industry which has begun to create new and innovative fabric designs. The industry, however, still struggles over the best name for the fabric. This sparked the research question, ＂What impact does the term ＇nonwoven＇ or ＇engineered fabric＇ have on a 15- to 25-year-old＇s intent to purchase a garment？＂ Through a convenience sampling method, an online questionnaire was distributed to 15- to 25-year-old United States females. The questionnaire included questions regarding demographics and psychographics, and asked respondents to choose garments they would intend to purchase based on known attributes such as style, brand, price, place, and fabrication and fiber content. There were a total of 14 garments, seven tops and seven bottoms. Four of these garments, two tops and two bottoms were constructed of nonwoven fabrics. The respondents accepted the nonwoven fabrics when shown in garments in an online setting. This demonstrates that visually, these fabrics are comparable to traditional woven and knit fabrics. The ＂nonwoven＂ polyester and nylon blend fabric increased in popularity when the respondents were told the fabrication and fiber content. However, the ＂engineered＂ polyester and polyethylene blend fabric dropped to last place when fabrication and fiber content were known. This indicates that 15- to 25-year-old respondents do not understand or are not interested in fibers or fabrications described as ＂engineered fabric＂ with a pulyester/pulyethylene blend. More research will have to be done to determine if the fabrication term ＂engineered fabric＂ or if the pulyester/pulyethylene blend fiber content caused a lack of interest or decreased intent to purchase. Research has ,currentl begun to determine the right comblnation of fiber content and fiber size to develop a nonwoven fabric with an acceptable hand fof apparel fabrics.

The Fashion-Architecture＇s Theory： Reflecting Tribe Civilization into Contemporary Age

In megacities, the phenomenon of the highrise buildings which add fashion elements into the body and facades seems as big sculptures. Architect composed their work by applying the cross-pollination of design method. They adopted the various elements to enrich their building＇s facade in order to look different. On the other hand, the traditional architecture expressed the tribe civilization by placing their proud artifacts into the building＇s facade. The purpose of this study is to find a new theory of architecture during their process of becoming of the architecture＇s form. The study applied a phenomenological investigation method of several highrise building＇s facade at Jakarta and several districts of Singapore, Brisbane and Melbourne. The study result is a new theory named ＂the fashion-architecture＂ is a building composed by adopting the cross-pollination of design method. To enrich the building＇s facade, architect adopted anything including the fashion＇s design elements： accessories, millineries, and cosmetics also reflected by the traditional architecture. Their fashion-architecture works are reflecting the tribe civilization into a contemporary architecture design.

Analysis and research on the demands of the fashion emotional design for the modem professional women

Clothing is a kind of the clothing design activity based on the emotional factors and the concrete understandings. Clothing is not only a kind of the life necessities, but also the interpretation and expression of our own temperament and personalities. Of course, the best effects of the entire costume design activity can be achieved only when the costume itself is matched with the person＇s identity. In this paper, from the analysis of the influence and the relationship between the clothing emotion and the fashion design activities, combined with the analysis of the specific characteristics of the groups of the modern occupational females, the author explores the modem women＇s specific needs in the clothing emotional design, and explores the specific ideas of the modern professional women＇s clothing emotional design.

The rise and development situation of Shanghai independent fashion designer brand

Using Shanghai as the background, the paper demonstrates the rise and development of Shanghai independent designer brands. It analyzes the survival situation of these independent designer brands and points out the development attributions and problems existed, aiming to find the future development path and fitting marketing strategy for those brands.

Analysis of Effective Working Hours of Automatic Assembly Equipment for Aircraft Assembly Stations

To improve the accuracy of capacity analysis and prediction for the aircraft assembly stations,an approach for calculating the effective working hour(EWH)of automatic assembly equipment is introduced by using the dynamic mixed Weibull distribution(DMWD)model.Firstly,according to the features of aircraft assembling,a DMWD model considering the dynamic reliability of multiple subsystems and their synthetic effects on the whole equipment is established.A typical automatic drilling&riveting machine is selected as the research object,and the dynamic weights of reliability of three subsystems are modeled and solved.Subsequently the unknown parameters of the DMWD model are estimated based on maximum likelihood estimation(MLE)and Newton-Raphson method.Finally,the EWH of an automatic station is defined and modeled by using the solved dynamic reliability function.Based on the experimental study on a real automatic drilling&riveting machine from a wing panel assembly station,it is shown that the proposed DMWD and EWH models could effectively calculate the equipment reliability with full consideration of its multiple subsystems.The DMWD model is more suitable for improving the solution precision of EWH than the traditional three-parameter Weibull distribution.

The application of corset element in fashion design

This article is focused on the fashion that inspired by corset and create a collection of the same kind that can reflect the needs of today＇ s consumers. In mixing and matching today＇ s a past corset＇ s elements with today＇ s sportive fashion.Since nowadays, people＇ s lifestyle is freer, casual and personal than before. Consumer＇ s wearing concept was also definitely different from the past.It is necessary to create the new direction for today＇ s consumers to satisfy the new mode of their lifestyle and the change of their wearing concept.