民间刺绣艺术的产业化思考——以甘肃东乡刺绣艺术为例

民间刺绣艺术是中国优秀的民族传统工艺之一,是非物质文化遗产的重要组成部分。当前甘肃东乡刺绣艺术的产业化发展面临着若干问题:未形成标准化、系列化产品,产品民族独特性和创新性缺乏,东乡刺绣工艺濒临失传,生产规模小,市场空间狭窄等。结合东乡刺绣艺术的典型案例,就其产业化发展策略进行思考和探讨,以期促进优秀传统文化的传承和地区经济的发展。

东乡刺绣:非遗传承性别视角下“绣娘”主体能力提升研究

传统非遗文化东乡刺绣在实现产业化过程中激发了当地女性的就业活力和可持续发展能力,有效衔接了脱贫攻坚成果与乡村振兴。但目前产业发展处于初级阶段,产业效益未能得到充分发挥,究其原因是投身于东乡刺绣文化传承发展事业的“东乡绣娘”被困在符号化的性别角色演绎里,被锁定在产业链、价值链低端。对此,应发挥经济地位提升对思想观念转变的基础性作用,从东乡刺绣产业发展的外部环境打造和“绣娘”主体能力提升两个方面入手来破解非遗文化传承的性别象征困境和产业主体利益分配不均难题。The traditional intangible cultural heritage of Dongxiang embroidery stimulates the employment vitality and sustainable development ability of local women in the process of realizing industrialization, effectively bridging the results of poverty alleviation and rural revitalization. However, the development of the industry is currently at an early stage, and the benefits of the industry have not been fully realized, the reason for this is that “Dongxiang Embroiderers” who devote themselves to the development of Dongxiang embroidery culture inheritance are trapped in the symbolic interpretation of gender roles and locked in the lower-end segments of the industrial chain and value chain. In this regard, the fundamental role of economic upgrading in changing mentalities should be utilized. On the one hand, it should start from the external environment of the Dongxiang embroidery industry development. On the other hand, it is necessary to improve the capacity of “embroiderers”. Then, crack the gender symbolization dilemma of the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage and the unequal distribution of benefits among industrial subjects.

乡村振兴视野下商业介入对传统手工艺发展的影响——以东乡族自治县刺绣为例

在乡村振兴的大背景下,大型企业开始向乡村大力投资,其中部分企业将目光聚焦于传统手工艺,并将其发展为手工艺文化产业,而传统手工艺在商业介入后也获得了新生与活力。作为东乡族最具代表性的传统手工艺之一,在商业介入后东乡刺绣在技法和纹样发生了转变。东乡刺绣在形成完整产业链后,对改变当地居民的传统生计空间与当地女性独立意识、平等意识觉醒的影响也不容小觑。同时在乡村振兴的时代大背景下,作为非物质文化遗产的东乡刺绣技艺,在商业介入后也实现了生产性保护。