Almost all works in the field of boundary layer flow under the breaking wave consider the flow similar as the flow in an oscillating pressure tube. Although the two flows are similar, there are many differences. The r...Almost all works in the field of boundary layer flow under the breaking wave consider the flow similar as the flow in an oscillating pressure tube. Although the two flows are similar, there are many differences. The results achieved in such manner are therefore also only similar to the results that can be achieved during measurements in the surf zone. Present article deals with boundary layer measurements on an inclined bottom under breaking waves. The measurements over the whole wave cycle were carried out, and the shear velocity under the breaking wave was calculated based on the measurements. It was found that there is a considerable space and time variation of the term in the surf zone. The turbulence generated during the wave breaking changes the shape of the shear velocity profile in comparison to the profile measured before breaking. As the values of shear velocity are directly correlated with the description of the whole velocity field in the wave, it can be assumed that the enhanced description of the shear velocity results in better understanding of the whole velocity field under breaking waves. Therefore, the article brings a new insight into the field and aims to make a discussion about the need to rethink the way of describing the boundary layer flow in the surf zone.展开更多
文摘Almost all works in the field of boundary layer flow under the breaking wave consider the flow similar as the flow in an oscillating pressure tube. Although the two flows are similar, there are many differences. The results achieved in such manner are therefore also only similar to the results that can be achieved during measurements in the surf zone. Present article deals with boundary layer measurements on an inclined bottom under breaking waves. The measurements over the whole wave cycle were carried out, and the shear velocity under the breaking wave was calculated based on the measurements. It was found that there is a considerable space and time variation of the term in the surf zone. The turbulence generated during the wave breaking changes the shape of the shear velocity profile in comparison to the profile measured before breaking. As the values of shear velocity are directly correlated with the description of the whole velocity field in the wave, it can be assumed that the enhanced description of the shear velocity results in better understanding of the whole velocity field under breaking waves. Therefore, the article brings a new insight into the field and aims to make a discussion about the need to rethink the way of describing the boundary layer flow in the surf zone.
