Relationship between wave steepness and wave age in the course of wind wave growth

It is traditionally assumed that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is inde- pendent of the wind wave growth state. In fact, the traditional relationship can not describe the whole course of wind wave growth. This paper assumes that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age changes with the variety of dimensionless fetch. Based on the relationship proposed by Hou and Wen (1990), a new relation- ship in the course of wind wave growth is revealed. Comparisons between the present study and other previous relationships show that this new relationship explains better the observations than the other existing relationships. In the case of small fetch, wave age value increases more quickly than other models while it is in opposition to that in the case of large fetch. The result in present paper can clearly reflect the whole course of wind wave growth, it is an improvement for traditional results.Key words: wave steepness, wave age, relationship between wave steepness and wave

关于统一场论的综合论述

自然科学里有许多难题困扰着科学家,就如法国科学家拉普拉斯所言:我们必须把目前的宇宙状态看作它以前的状态的结果,以及以后发展的原因,如果有一种智慧了解它的实体各自的位置,如果它还伟大地足以分析所有这些事物,它就能用一个单独公式概括出宇宙万物的运动,从最大的天体到最小的原子,都毫无例外,而且对于未来就像对于过去那样,都能一目了然。作者企图通过创立统一场论这一崭新的理论并解释椭圆图及公式让有经验的科学家,从这个理论和图型及公式的出发点与结果,得到正确认识自然界起因和运动后能量大小变化的能力,特别是能对天体进化模型重新设计其目的。