An idealized numerical wave flume has been established by finite element method on the bases of Navier Stokes equations through prescribing the appropriate boundary conditions for the open boundary,incident boundary,...An idealized numerical wave flume has been established by finite element method on the bases of Navier Stokes equations through prescribing the appropriate boundary conditions for the open boundary,incident boundary,free surface and solid boundary in this paper.The characteristics of waves propagating over a step have been investigated by this numerical model.The breaker wave height is determined depending on the kinetic criterion.The numerical model is verified by laboratory experiments,and the empirical formula for the damping of wave height due to breaking is also given by experiments.展开更多
A number of studies focus on the pore-water pressure in seabed under thewaves and seabed instability induced by liquefaction, but rarely on the wave pressureof liquefied soil. In this paper, flume tests were performed...A number of studies focus on the pore-water pressure in seabed under thewaves and seabed instability induced by liquefaction, but rarely on the wave pressureof liquefied soil. In this paper, flume tests were performed at varying wave heightsunder both conditions of liquefied and stable seabed. The total pressures equal to soilpressures and pore water pressures were measured and analyzed at each depth. Theresults showed that the liquefied seabed had little difference from the stable seabed onthe peak pressures. However, the pressure amplitude of the liquefied soil increased byseveral to 10 times and decreased faster with increasing soil depths, compared with thestable soil. According to the experiments and further analysis, an empirical equationbetween pressure amplitude of the liquefied soil and wave parameters was put forwardunder the flume test. The results provide a valuable reference for engineeringapplications.展开更多
Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity...Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.展开更多
Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the...Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion μ and the nonlinearity ε satisfied ε = O（μ^2） as the Lagrange thnction is expanded up to O（μ^8） . It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to μ^4 order to ensure the Lagrange function is in μ^8 order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected.展开更多
A numerical approach was performed to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A numerical wave flume was developed based on the non-periodic high-order spectral (HOS) method. The flume was...A numerical approach was performed to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A numerical wave flume was developed based on the non-periodic high-order spectral (HOS) method. The flume was applied to analyze the effect of wave steepness and wavelength on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The results show that for waves of low steepness, the wave profile and the wave energy spectrum are stable, and that the propagation can be predicted by the linear wave theory. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves, the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave group become significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position.展开更多
China's newly enacted Breakwater Design Specifications(JTS154-2011) explicitly state that breakwaters with water depths greater than 20 m are categorized as deep-water breakwaters, and emphasize that design princi...China's newly enacted Breakwater Design Specifications(JTS154-2011) explicitly state that breakwaters with water depths greater than 20 m are categorized as deep-water breakwaters, and emphasize that design principles, methods and construction requirements are different from those of common shallow water breakwaters. However, the specifications do not make any mention of how to choose wave force calculation methods of deep-water breakwaters. To study the feasibility of different formulae for wave force estimation of deep water combined breakwaters, the wave force calculated by the Sainflou's, Goda's, modified Goda's and specifications' methods are compared for various water depths and wave heights in this paper. The calculated results are also compared with experimental data. The total horizontal forcing and the pattern of pressure distributions are presented. Comparisons show that the wave pressure distributions by the four methods are similar, but the total horizontal forces are different. The results obtained by the Goda's method and the specified formulae are much closer to the experimental data. As for the wave force estimation for the deepwater mixed embankment foundation bed parapet, the Goda's formula is applied in the case with a water depth of less than 42 m. The Specifications method is suitable for standing waves. In the wave force estimates of breastworks, Sainflou's and the modified Gaoda's formulae are no longer applicable for the foundation bed of mixed embankment.展开更多
The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics ...The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics for random waves on water of finite depth. Greater attention is paid to changes in wave statistics due to wave breaking in random wave trains. The results show skewness of surface elevations is independent of wave breaking and kurtosis is suppressed by wave breaking. Finally, the exceedance probabilities for wave heights are also investigated.展开更多
The development of a two dimensional numerical wave tank （NWT） with a rocker or piston type wavemaker based on the high order boundary element method （BEM） and mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian （MEL） is examined. The ca...The development of a two dimensional numerical wave tank （NWT） with a rocker or piston type wavemaker based on the high order boundary element method （BEM） and mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian （MEL） is examined. The cauchy principle value （CPV） integral is calculated by a special Gauss type quadrature and a change of variable. In addition the explicit truncated Taylor expansion formula is employed in the time-stepping process. A modified double nodes method is assumed to tackle the comer problem, as well as the damping zone technique is used to absorb the propagation of the free surface wave at the end of the tank. A variety of waves are generated by the NWT, for example; a monochromatic wave, solitary wave and irregular wave. The results confirm the NWT model is efficient and stable.展开更多
文摘An idealized numerical wave flume has been established by finite element method on the bases of Navier Stokes equations through prescribing the appropriate boundary conditions for the open boundary,incident boundary,free surface and solid boundary in this paper.The characteristics of waves propagating over a step have been investigated by this numerical model.The breaker wave height is determined depending on the kinetic criterion.The numerical model is verified by laboratory experiments,and the empirical formula for the damping of wave height due to breaking is also given by experiments.
基金supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.41576039)the Scientific Research Projects of Marine Public Welfare Industry (Grant No.201305026)
文摘A number of studies focus on the pore-water pressure in seabed under thewaves and seabed instability induced by liquefaction, but rarely on the wave pressureof liquefied soil. In this paper, flume tests were performed at varying wave heightsunder both conditions of liquefied and stable seabed. The total pressures equal to soilpressures and pore water pressures were measured and analyzed at each depth. Theresults showed that the liquefied seabed had little difference from the stable seabed onthe peak pressures. However, the pressure amplitude of the liquefied soil increased byseveral to 10 times and decreased faster with increasing soil depths, compared with thestable soil. According to the experiments and further analysis, an empirical equationbetween pressure amplitude of the liquefied soil and wave parameters was put forwardunder the flume test. The results provide a valuable reference for engineeringapplications.
基金Supported by Specialized Research Fund for Doctoral Program of Higher Education (No.20040423002)by National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.40476008)
文摘Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.
基金Supported by the High-Tech Research and Development Program of China (863 Program, No. 2001AA633070 2003AA604040) the National Nature Science Foundation of China (No.40376008).
文摘Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion μ and the nonlinearity ε satisfied ε = O（μ^2） as the Lagrange thnction is expanded up to O（μ^8） . It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to μ^4 order to ensure the Lagrange function is in μ^8 order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected.
文摘A numerical approach was performed to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A numerical wave flume was developed based on the non-periodic high-order spectral (HOS) method. The flume was applied to analyze the effect of wave steepness and wavelength on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The results show that for waves of low steepness, the wave profile and the wave energy spectrum are stable, and that the propagation can be predicted by the linear wave theory. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves, the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave group become significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position.
基金supported by the Shandong Sci-tech Development Plan(Item No.2008GGB01099)
文摘China's newly enacted Breakwater Design Specifications(JTS154-2011) explicitly state that breakwaters with water depths greater than 20 m are categorized as deep-water breakwaters, and emphasize that design principles, methods and construction requirements are different from those of common shallow water breakwaters. However, the specifications do not make any mention of how to choose wave force calculation methods of deep-water breakwaters. To study the feasibility of different formulae for wave force estimation of deep water combined breakwaters, the wave force calculated by the Sainflou's, Goda's, modified Goda's and specifications' methods are compared for various water depths and wave heights in this paper. The calculated results are also compared with experimental data. The total horizontal forcing and the pattern of pressure distributions are presented. Comparisons show that the wave pressure distributions by the four methods are similar, but the total horizontal forces are different. The results obtained by the Goda's method and the specified formulae are much closer to the experimental data. As for the wave force estimation for the deepwater mixed embankment foundation bed parapet, the Goda's formula is applied in the case with a water depth of less than 42 m. The Specifications method is suitable for standing waves. In the wave force estimates of breastworks, Sainflou's and the modified Gaoda's formulae are no longer applicable for the foundation bed of mixed embankment.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.50579007the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China (863 Program) under Grant No. 2007AA11Z130
文摘The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics for random waves on water of finite depth. Greater attention is paid to changes in wave statistics due to wave breaking in random wave trains. The results show skewness of surface elevations is independent of wave breaking and kurtosis is suppressed by wave breaking. Finally, the exceedance probabilities for wave heights are also investigated.
基金Foundation item： Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China （Grant No.51009038/E091002）.
文摘The development of a two dimensional numerical wave tank （NWT） with a rocker or piston type wavemaker based on the high order boundary element method （BEM） and mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian （MEL） is examined. The cauchy principle value （CPV） integral is calculated by a special Gauss type quadrature and a change of variable. In addition the explicit truncated Taylor expansion formula is employed in the time-stepping process. A modified double nodes method is assumed to tackle the comer problem, as well as the damping zone technique is used to absorb the propagation of the free surface wave at the end of the tank. A variety of waves are generated by the NWT, for example; a monochromatic wave, solitary wave and irregular wave. The results confirm the NWT model is efficient and stable.
