In this paper, the Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM) was employed and configured for 3 dimensional numerical simulations of tide and tidal current based on the field observations in Zhanjiang Bay. The model...In this paper, the Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM) was employed and configured for 3 dimensional numerical simulations of tide and tidal current based on the field observations in Zhanjiang Bay. The model's results agree well with the field observed data. Based on the well validated model, the hydrodynamic fields of zhanjiang bay area were calculated both before the Donghai Dam constructing and after that. Compared the tidal level, current field, tidal capacity and water exchange ratio before the construction of Dohai dam with those after construction of the dam, we analyzed and get some conclusions of effects of Donghai Dam on Hydrodynamic environment of the Zhanjiang Bay.展开更多
A hydro-dynamic model is established on basis of MIKE21 FM to simulate the hydro-dynamic characteristics of Xinghua Bay and investigate the influence of reclamation project on the tidal elevation and tidal currents. T...A hydro-dynamic model is established on basis of MIKE21 FM to simulate the hydro-dynamic characteristics of Xinghua Bay and investigate the influence of reclamation project on the tidal elevation and tidal currents. Tidal elevation data was obtained at the six tide gauge stations around the Xinghua Bay, and another six current stations were established to observe the tidal current velocity and direction. Validation shows that the model-simulated tidal elevation and tidal currents agree well with observations made at different stations. Predictions are made according to the reclamation project proposed in the regional marine planning of Hanjiang Industrial Park around the port in Putian City. The variations of hydro-dynamic factors, such as tide, current velocity and direction and tidal influx are obtained, and the adverse effect of reclamation on marine environment is discussed. It is shown that the tidal level inside the Xinghua Bay during high tide decreases after the reclamation project is completed. The tidal currents during flooding tide generally decrease in the southeast of the reclamation region, with the maximum decreasing amplitude reaching 0.44 m s^(-1). On the other hand, the tidal currents during flooding tide increase around the southeast and southwest corners of the reclamation region. The tidal currents during ebb tide increase around the southeast and southwest corners of the reclamation region, with the maximum increasing amplitude attaining 0.18 m s^(-1). The results in this paper can give some guidance for the marine environment management and the effective utilization of land in Putian.展开更多
Laizhou Bay and its adjacent waters are of great importance to China's marine oil and gas development. It is therefore crucial to estimate retttrn-period values of marine environmental variables in this region to ens...Laizhou Bay and its adjacent waters are of great importance to China's marine oil and gas development. It is therefore crucial to estimate retttrn-period values of marine environmental variables in this region to ensure the safety and success of maritime engineering and maritime exploration. In this study, we used numerical simulations to estimate extreme wave height, sea current velocity and sea-level height in westem Laizhou Bay. The results show that the sea-level rise starts at the mouth of the bay, increases toward west/southwest, and reaches its maximum in the deepest basin of the bay. The 100-year return-period values of sea level rise can reach 3.4-4.0m in the western bay. The elevation of the western part of the Qingdong Oil Field would remain above the sea sur- face during extreme low sea level, while the rest of the oil field would be 1,6-2.4m below the sea surface. The return-period value of wave height is strongly affected by water depth; in fact, its spatial distribution is similar to the isobath's. The 100-year return-period values of effective wave height can be 6m or higher in the central bay and be more than 1 m in the shallow water near shore. The 100-year return-period values of current velocity is about 1.2-1.8 ms-1 in the Qingdong Oil Field. These results provide scientific basis for ensuring construction safety and reducing construction cost,展开更多
The mass configuration of the buoyancy-driven underwater glider is decomposed and defined. The coupling between the glider body and its internal masses is addressed using the energy law. A glider motion model is estab...The mass configuration of the buoyancy-driven underwater glider is decomposed and defined. The coupling between the glider body and its internal masses is addressed using the energy law. A glider motion model is established, and the corresponding simulation program is derived using MATLAB. The characteristics of the glider motion are explored using this program. The simula- tion results show that the basic characteristic of a buoyancy-driven underwater glider is the periodic alternation of downward and upward motions. The glider's spiral motion can be applied to missions in restricted regions. The glider's horizontal velocity, gliding depth and its motion radius in spiral motion can be changed to meet different application purposes by using different glider parameter designs. The simulation also shows that the model is appropriate and the program has strong simulation functions.展开更多
Sharples’ 1 D physical model employing tide wind driven turbulence closure and surface heating cooling physics, was coupled with an ecological model with 9 biochemical components: phytoplankton, zooplankton, shellfis...Sharples’ 1 D physical model employing tide wind driven turbulence closure and surface heating cooling physics, was coupled with an ecological model with 9 biochemical components: phytoplankton, zooplankton, shellfish, autotrophic and heterotrophic bacterioplankton, dissolved organic carbon (DOC), suspended detritus and sinking particles to simulate the annual evolution of ecosystem in the central part of Jiaozhou Bay. The coupled modeling results showed that the phytoplankton shading effect could reduce seawater temperature by 2℃, so that photosynthesis efficiency should be less than 8%; that the loss of phytoplankton by zooplankton grazing in winter tended to be compensated by phytoplankton advection and diffusion from the outside of the Bay; that the incident irradiance intensity could be the most important factor for phytoplankton growth rate; and that it was the bacterial secondary production that maintained the maximum zooplankton biomass in winter usually observed in the 1990s, indicating that the microbial food loop was extremely important for ecosystem study of Jiaozhou Bay.展开更多
In this study, we used the Navy’s Generalized Digital Environmental Model (GDEM) climatological temperature and salinity data on a 0.5°×0.5° grid to investigate the seasonal variabilities of the southw...In this study, we used the Navy’s Generalized Digital Environmental Model (GDEM) climatological temperature and salinity data on a 0.5°×0.5° grid to investigate the seasonal variabilities of the southwest Philippines Sea (0.5°–9°N, 123.5°–136.5°) thermohaline structure and circulation. The GDEM for the area was built up on historical (1930–1997) temperature and salinity profiles. A three-dimensional estimate of the absolute geostrophic velocity field on isopycnal surface was obtained from the GDEM temperature and salinity fields using the P-vector method. The seasonal variabilities of the thermohaline structure and currents (obtained from the inverse method) such as the Mindanao Current, Mindanao Undercurrent, North Equatorial Counter Current, New Guinea Coastal Undercurrent, and dual-eddies (cyclinic Mindanao Eddy and anticyclonic Halmahera Eddy) are identified.展开更多
The phase change characteristic of the power source of an underwater glider propelled by the ocean's thermal energy is the key factor in glider attitude control. A numerical model has been established based on the en...The phase change characteristic of the power source of an underwater glider propelled by the ocean's thermal energy is the key factor in glider attitude control. A numerical model has been established based on the enthalpy method to analyze the phase change heat transfer process under convective boundary conditions. Phase change is not an isothermal process, but one that occurs at a range of temperature. The total melting time of the material is very sensitive to the surrounding temperature. When the temperature of the surroundings decreases 8 degrees, the total melting time increases 1.8 times. But variations in surrounding temperature have little effect on the initial temperature of phase change, and the slope of the temperature time history curve remains the same. However, the temperature at which phase change is completed decreases significantly. Our research shows that the phase change process is also affected by container size, boundary conditions, and the power source's cross sectional area. Materials stored in 3 cylindrical containers with a diameter of 38ram needed the shortest phase change time. Our conclusions should be helpful in effective design of underwater glider power systems.展开更多
A kinetic model was proposed to predict the seawater fouling process in the seawater heat exchangers.The new model adopted an expression combining depositional and removal behaviors for seawater fouling based on the K...A kinetic model was proposed to predict the seawater fouling process in the seawater heat exchangers.The new model adopted an expression combining depositional and removal behaviors for seawater fouling based on the Kern–Seaton model.The present model parameters include the integrated kinetic rate of deposition(k d)and the integrated kinetic rate of removal(k r),which have clear physical signi ficance.A seawater-fouling monitoring device was established to validate the model.The experimental data were well fitted to the model,and the parameters were obtained in different conditions.SEM and EDX analyses were performed after the experiments,and the results show that the main components of seawater fouling are magnesium hydroxide and aluminum hydroxide.The effects of surface temperature,flow velocity and surface free energy were assessed by the model and the experimental data.The results indicate that the seawater fouling becomes aggravated as the surface temperature increased in a certain range,and the seawater fouling resistance reduced as the flow velocity of seawater increased.Furthermore,the effect of the surface free energy of metals was analyzed,showing that the lower surface free energy mitigates the seawater fouling accumulation.展开更多
To solve nutrient flux and budget among waters with distinct salinity difference for water-salt- nutrient budget, a traditional method is to build a stoichiometrically linked steady state model. However, the tradition...To solve nutrient flux and budget among waters with distinct salinity difference for water-salt- nutrient budget, a traditional method is to build a stoichiometrically linked steady state model. However, the traditional way cannot cope appropriately with those without distinct salinity difference that parallel to coastline or in a complex current system, as the results would be highly affected by box division in time and space, such as the Changjiang (Yangtze) River estuary (CRE) and adjacent waters (30.75°-31.75°N, 122°10′-123°20′E). Therefore, we developed a hydrodynamic box model based on the traditional way and the regional oceanic modeling system model (ROMS). Using data from four cruises in 2005, horizontal, vertical and boundary nutrient fluxes were calculated in the hydrodynamic box model, in which flux fields and the major controlling factors were studied. Results show that the nutrient flux varied greatly in season and space. Water flux outweighs the nutrient concentration in horizontal flux, and upwelling flux outweighs upward diffusion flux in vertical direction (upwelling flux and upward diffusion flux regions overlap largely all the year). Vertical flux in spring and summer are much greater than that in autumn and winter. The maximum vertical flux for DIP (dissolved inorganic phosphate) occurs in summer. Additional to the fluxes of the ChanNiang River discharge, coastal currents, the Taiwan Warm Current, and the upwelling, nutrient flux inflow from the southern Yellow Sea and outflow southward are found crucial to nutrient budgets of the study area. Horizontal nutrient flux is controlled by physical dilution and confined to coastal waters with a little into the open seas. The study area acts as a conveyer transferring nutrients from the Yellow Sea to the East China Sea in the whole year. In addition, vertical nutrient flux in spring and summer is a main source of DIP. Therefore, the hydrodynamic ROMS-based box model is superior to the traditional one in estimating nutrient fluxes in a complicated hydrodynamic current system and provides a modified box model approach to material flux research.展开更多
The climatology subduction rate for the entire Pacific is known, but the mechanism of interannual to decadal variation remains unclear. In this study, we calculated the annual subduction rates of three types of North ...The climatology subduction rate for the entire Pacific is known, but the mechanism of interannual to decadal variation remains unclear. In this study, we calculated the annual subduction rates of three types of North Pacific subtropical mode waters using a general circulation model (LICOM1.0) for the period of 1958-2001. The model experiments focused on interannual variations of ocean dynamical processes under daily wind forcings and seasonal heat fluxes. The mode water formation region was defined by a potential vorticity minimum at outcrop locations. The model results show that two subduction rate maxima (>100 m/a) were located in the Subtropical Mode Water (STMW) and the Central Mode Water (CMW) formation regions. These regions are consistent with a climatologically calculated value. The subduction rate in the Eastern Subtropical Mode Water (ESTMW) formation region was smaller at about 75 m/a. The subduction rate shows clear interannual and decadal variations associated with oceanic dynamic variabilities. The average subduction rate of the STMW was much smaller during the period of 1981-1990 compared with other periods, while that of the CMW had a negative anomaly before 1975 and a positive anomaly after 1978. The variability agreed with Ekman and geostrophic advections and mixed layer depths. The interannual variability of the subduction rate for the ESTMW was smallest during 1970-1990, as a result of a weak wind stress curl. This paper explores how interannual signals from the atmosphere are stored in different parts of the ocean, and thus may contribute to a better understanding of feedback mechanisms for the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) event.展开更多
Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity...Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.展开更多
Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the...Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion μ and the nonlinearity ε satisfied ε = O(μ^2) as the Lagrange thnction is expanded up to O(μ^8) . It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to μ^4 order to ensure the Lagrange function is in μ^8 order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected.展开更多
文摘In this paper, the Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM) was employed and configured for 3 dimensional numerical simulations of tide and tidal current based on the field observations in Zhanjiang Bay. The model's results agree well with the field observed data. Based on the well validated model, the hydrodynamic fields of zhanjiang bay area were calculated both before the Donghai Dam constructing and after that. Compared the tidal level, current field, tidal capacity and water exchange ratio before the construction of Dohai dam with those after construction of the dam, we analyzed and get some conclusions of effects of Donghai Dam on Hydrodynamic environment of the Zhanjiang Bay.
基金supported by the Regional Marine Planning of Hanjiang Industrial Park around the port in Putian City
文摘A hydro-dynamic model is established on basis of MIKE21 FM to simulate the hydro-dynamic characteristics of Xinghua Bay and investigate the influence of reclamation project on the tidal elevation and tidal currents. Tidal elevation data was obtained at the six tide gauge stations around the Xinghua Bay, and another six current stations were established to observe the tidal current velocity and direction. Validation shows that the model-simulated tidal elevation and tidal currents agree well with observations made at different stations. Predictions are made according to the reclamation project proposed in the regional marine planning of Hanjiang Industrial Park around the port in Putian City. The variations of hydro-dynamic factors, such as tide, current velocity and direction and tidal influx are obtained, and the adverse effect of reclamation on marine environment is discussed. It is shown that the tidal level inside the Xinghua Bay during high tide decreases after the reclamation project is completed. The tidal currents during flooding tide generally decrease in the southeast of the reclamation region, with the maximum decreasing amplitude reaching 0.44 m s^(-1). On the other hand, the tidal currents during flooding tide increase around the southeast and southwest corners of the reclamation region. The tidal currents during ebb tide increase around the southeast and southwest corners of the reclamation region, with the maximum increasing amplitude attaining 0.18 m s^(-1). The results in this paper can give some guidance for the marine environment management and the effective utilization of land in Putian.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation for the Project ‘Formation and development of the muddy deposition in the central south Yellow Sea, and its relation with climate and environmental change (41030856)’the Shandong Natural Science Foun-dation for the Project ‘Seasonal variation and its mechanism of suspended sediment distribution along the Shandong Peninsula (BS2012HZ022)’+2 种基金the project of ‘Ocean-Land interaction and coastal geological hazard (GZH201100203)’the NSFC project ‘Mechanism on strong wind’s effect on submarine pipeline’s stability’ (41006024)the Taishan Scholar Project
文摘Laizhou Bay and its adjacent waters are of great importance to China's marine oil and gas development. It is therefore crucial to estimate retttrn-period values of marine environmental variables in this region to ensure the safety and success of maritime engineering and maritime exploration. In this study, we used numerical simulations to estimate extreme wave height, sea current velocity and sea-level height in westem Laizhou Bay. The results show that the sea-level rise starts at the mouth of the bay, increases toward west/southwest, and reaches its maximum in the deepest basin of the bay. The 100-year return-period values of sea level rise can reach 3.4-4.0m in the western bay. The elevation of the western part of the Qingdong Oil Field would remain above the sea sur- face during extreme low sea level, while the rest of the oil field would be 1,6-2.4m below the sea surface. The return-period value of wave height is strongly affected by water depth; in fact, its spatial distribution is similar to the isobath's. The 100-year return-period values of effective wave height can be 6m or higher in the central bay and be more than 1 m in the shallow water near shore. The 100-year return-period values of current velocity is about 1.2-1.8 ms-1 in the Qingdong Oil Field. These results provide scientific basis for ensuring construction safety and reducing construction cost,
文摘The mass configuration of the buoyancy-driven underwater glider is decomposed and defined. The coupling between the glider body and its internal masses is addressed using the energy law. A glider motion model is established, and the corresponding simulation program is derived using MATLAB. The characteristics of the glider motion are explored using this program. The simula- tion results show that the basic characteristic of a buoyancy-driven underwater glider is the periodic alternation of downward and upward motions. The glider's spiral motion can be applied to missions in restricted regions. The glider's horizontal velocity, gliding depth and its motion radius in spiral motion can be changed to meet different application purposes by using different glider parameter designs. The simulation also shows that the model is appropriate and the program has strong simulation functions.
文摘Sharples’ 1 D physical model employing tide wind driven turbulence closure and surface heating cooling physics, was coupled with an ecological model with 9 biochemical components: phytoplankton, zooplankton, shellfish, autotrophic and heterotrophic bacterioplankton, dissolved organic carbon (DOC), suspended detritus and sinking particles to simulate the annual evolution of ecosystem in the central part of Jiaozhou Bay. The coupled modeling results showed that the phytoplankton shading effect could reduce seawater temperature by 2℃, so that photosynthesis efficiency should be less than 8%; that the loss of phytoplankton by zooplankton grazing in winter tended to be compensated by phytoplankton advection and diffusion from the outside of the Bay; that the incident irradiance intensity could be the most important factor for phytoplankton growth rate; and that it was the bacterial secondary production that maintained the maximum zooplankton biomass in winter usually observed in the 1990s, indicating that the microbial food loop was extremely important for ecosystem study of Jiaozhou Bay.
文摘In this study, we used the Navy’s Generalized Digital Environmental Model (GDEM) climatological temperature and salinity data on a 0.5°×0.5° grid to investigate the seasonal variabilities of the southwest Philippines Sea (0.5°–9°N, 123.5°–136.5°) thermohaline structure and circulation. The GDEM for the area was built up on historical (1930–1997) temperature and salinity profiles. A three-dimensional estimate of the absolute geostrophic velocity field on isopycnal surface was obtained from the GDEM temperature and salinity fields using the P-vector method. The seasonal variabilities of the thermohaline structure and currents (obtained from the inverse method) such as the Mindanao Current, Mindanao Undercurrent, North Equatorial Counter Current, New Guinea Coastal Undercurrent, and dual-eddies (cyclinic Mindanao Eddy and anticyclonic Halmahera Eddy) are identified.
基金Supported by the Sustainable Energy Propulsion System Program of 211’s Engineering Foundation, Shanghai Jiaotong University.
文摘The phase change characteristic of the power source of an underwater glider propelled by the ocean's thermal energy is the key factor in glider attitude control. A numerical model has been established based on the enthalpy method to analyze the phase change heat transfer process under convective boundary conditions. Phase change is not an isothermal process, but one that occurs at a range of temperature. The total melting time of the material is very sensitive to the surrounding temperature. When the temperature of the surroundings decreases 8 degrees, the total melting time increases 1.8 times. But variations in surrounding temperature have little effect on the initial temperature of phase change, and the slope of the temperature time history curve remains the same. However, the temperature at which phase change is completed decreases significantly. Our research shows that the phase change process is also affected by container size, boundary conditions, and the power source's cross sectional area. Materials stored in 3 cylindrical containers with a diameter of 38ram needed the shortest phase change time. Our conclusions should be helpful in effective design of underwater glider power systems.
基金Supported by the Leading Academic Discipline Project of Shanghai Municipal Education Commission(J50502)the Construction of Shanghai Science and Technology Commission(13DZ2260900)
文摘A kinetic model was proposed to predict the seawater fouling process in the seawater heat exchangers.The new model adopted an expression combining depositional and removal behaviors for seawater fouling based on the Kern–Seaton model.The present model parameters include the integrated kinetic rate of deposition(k d)and the integrated kinetic rate of removal(k r),which have clear physical signi ficance.A seawater-fouling monitoring device was established to validate the model.The experimental data were well fitted to the model,and the parameters were obtained in different conditions.SEM and EDX analyses were performed after the experiments,and the results show that the main components of seawater fouling are magnesium hydroxide and aluminum hydroxide.The effects of surface temperature,flow velocity and surface free energy were assessed by the model and the experimental data.The results indicate that the seawater fouling becomes aggravated as the surface temperature increased in a certain range,and the seawater fouling resistance reduced as the flow velocity of seawater increased.Furthermore,the effect of the surface free energy of metals was analyzed,showing that the lower surface free energy mitigates the seawater fouling accumulation.
基金Supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China(Nos.41121064,41276116)the National Basic Research Program of China(973 Program)(No.2010CB428706)
文摘To solve nutrient flux and budget among waters with distinct salinity difference for water-salt- nutrient budget, a traditional method is to build a stoichiometrically linked steady state model. However, the traditional way cannot cope appropriately with those without distinct salinity difference that parallel to coastline or in a complex current system, as the results would be highly affected by box division in time and space, such as the Changjiang (Yangtze) River estuary (CRE) and adjacent waters (30.75°-31.75°N, 122°10′-123°20′E). Therefore, we developed a hydrodynamic box model based on the traditional way and the regional oceanic modeling system model (ROMS). Using data from four cruises in 2005, horizontal, vertical and boundary nutrient fluxes were calculated in the hydrodynamic box model, in which flux fields and the major controlling factors were studied. Results show that the nutrient flux varied greatly in season and space. Water flux outweighs the nutrient concentration in horizontal flux, and upwelling flux outweighs upward diffusion flux in vertical direction (upwelling flux and upward diffusion flux regions overlap largely all the year). Vertical flux in spring and summer are much greater than that in autumn and winter. The maximum vertical flux for DIP (dissolved inorganic phosphate) occurs in summer. Additional to the fluxes of the ChanNiang River discharge, coastal currents, the Taiwan Warm Current, and the upwelling, nutrient flux inflow from the southern Yellow Sea and outflow southward are found crucial to nutrient budgets of the study area. Horizontal nutrient flux is controlled by physical dilution and confined to coastal waters with a little into the open seas. The study area acts as a conveyer transferring nutrients from the Yellow Sea to the East China Sea in the whole year. In addition, vertical nutrient flux in spring and summer is a main source of DIP. Therefore, the hydrodynamic ROMS-based box model is superior to the traditional one in estimating nutrient fluxes in a complicated hydrodynamic current system and provides a modified box model approach to material flux research.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Nos. 40906005, 40830106, 40730953, GYHY201106017)the National Basic Research Program of China (973 Program) (No. 2010CB428504)the National Key Technologies Research and Development Program of China (No. 2009BAC51B01)
文摘The climatology subduction rate for the entire Pacific is known, but the mechanism of interannual to decadal variation remains unclear. In this study, we calculated the annual subduction rates of three types of North Pacific subtropical mode waters using a general circulation model (LICOM1.0) for the period of 1958-2001. The model experiments focused on interannual variations of ocean dynamical processes under daily wind forcings and seasonal heat fluxes. The mode water formation region was defined by a potential vorticity minimum at outcrop locations. The model results show that two subduction rate maxima (>100 m/a) were located in the Subtropical Mode Water (STMW) and the Central Mode Water (CMW) formation regions. These regions are consistent with a climatologically calculated value. The subduction rate in the Eastern Subtropical Mode Water (ESTMW) formation region was smaller at about 75 m/a. The subduction rate shows clear interannual and decadal variations associated with oceanic dynamic variabilities. The average subduction rate of the STMW was much smaller during the period of 1981-1990 compared with other periods, while that of the CMW had a negative anomaly before 1975 and a positive anomaly after 1978. The variability agreed with Ekman and geostrophic advections and mixed layer depths. The interannual variability of the subduction rate for the ESTMW was smallest during 1970-1990, as a result of a weak wind stress curl. This paper explores how interannual signals from the atmosphere are stored in different parts of the ocean, and thus may contribute to a better understanding of feedback mechanisms for the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) event.
基金Supported by Specialized Research Fund for Doctoral Program of Higher Education (No.20040423002)by National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.40476008)
文摘Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.
基金Supported by the High-Tech Research and Development Program of China (863 Program, No. 2001AA633070 2003AA604040) the National Nature Science Foundation of China (No.40376008).
文摘Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion μ and the nonlinearity ε satisfied ε = O(μ^2) as the Lagrange thnction is expanded up to O(μ^8) . It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to μ^4 order to ensure the Lagrange function is in μ^8 order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected.