以EN ISO 17704标准为基础,通过调整摩擦圈数对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度测试方法进行了优化。采用数码喷墨、转移印花和气流喷射3种不同的印染方式对试验材料进行染色处理,分别制备了4种不同颜色的鞋面面料,使用优化后的方法测试各试样的耐...以EN ISO 17704标准为基础,通过调整摩擦圈数对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度测试方法进行了优化。采用数码喷墨、转移印花和气流喷射3种不同的印染方式对试验材料进行染色处理,分别制备了4种不同颜色的鞋面面料,使用优化后的方法测试各试样的耐磨色牢度。结果表明:优化后的测试方法具有一定的可操作性。印染方式、颜色及摩擦圈数在试验条件下对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度均有不同程度的影响。单因素方差分析结果显示:干摩擦圈数为16 000、湿摩擦圈数为8 500时,偶然误差较小,测试结果相对稳定,可信度较高,适用于实际生产中的鞋面面料耐摩擦色牢度测试。展开更多
A promising direction in the tanning industry is the use of natural minerals as environmentally friendly technologically efficient materials that are able to adjust and regulate the efficiency of formation of the derm...A promising direction in the tanning industry is the use of natural minerals as environmentally friendly technologically efficient materials that are able to adjust and regulate the efficiency of formation of the dermis structure and the properties of finished leather. The use of finely-dispersed minerals promotes alignment of topographic areas in thickness, increases the yield of leather on the area by avoiding bonding structural elements of the dermis. Changes in the microstructure of the dermis, as a result of mineral filling, contribute to improvement of performance and hygienic properties of finished leather. And the study of the properties of the specified skins should be consistent with the features of operations on their cutting, shoe molding and shoe upper fixing preparations. The most important properties of leather materials, which largely determine the quality of basic technological operations of shoe manufacturing are the deformation properties. Lack of information about relaxation and deformation properties of the leather produced by the new technologies do not allow to predict their ability to form shapes and save it--indicates the relevance of this study. This paper analyzes relaxation and deformation characteristics of natural leather for shoe uppers, filled with natural minerals montmorillonite and zeolite, and the ability to predict their formation and preservation of shape in service. Features of deformation of the skin with mineral content were assessed by determining single-cycle characteristics when attaching to a complete test cycle "loading-unloading-rest" sample. Correlations of elastic and plastic (permanent) deformation have been established, kinetics of changes in linear characteristics of the samples after removal of the load has been investigated. Introduction of dispersions of mineral to the structure of the dermis contributes to the strength of semi-finished leather, increase of the uniformity of mechanical properties in the longitudinal and transverse directions and rise of shape stability index. It is shown that the direction of this study allows us to offer new competitive ecologically friendly materials to produce shoes.展开更多
文摘以EN ISO 17704标准为基础,通过调整摩擦圈数对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度测试方法进行了优化。采用数码喷墨、转移印花和气流喷射3种不同的印染方式对试验材料进行染色处理,分别制备了4种不同颜色的鞋面面料,使用优化后的方法测试各试样的耐磨色牢度。结果表明:优化后的测试方法具有一定的可操作性。印染方式、颜色及摩擦圈数在试验条件下对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度均有不同程度的影响。单因素方差分析结果显示:干摩擦圈数为16 000、湿摩擦圈数为8 500时,偶然误差较小,测试结果相对稳定,可信度较高,适用于实际生产中的鞋面面料耐摩擦色牢度测试。
文摘A promising direction in the tanning industry is the use of natural minerals as environmentally friendly technologically efficient materials that are able to adjust and regulate the efficiency of formation of the dermis structure and the properties of finished leather. The use of finely-dispersed minerals promotes alignment of topographic areas in thickness, increases the yield of leather on the area by avoiding bonding structural elements of the dermis. Changes in the microstructure of the dermis, as a result of mineral filling, contribute to improvement of performance and hygienic properties of finished leather. And the study of the properties of the specified skins should be consistent with the features of operations on their cutting, shoe molding and shoe upper fixing preparations. The most important properties of leather materials, which largely determine the quality of basic technological operations of shoe manufacturing are the deformation properties. Lack of information about relaxation and deformation properties of the leather produced by the new technologies do not allow to predict their ability to form shapes and save it--indicates the relevance of this study. This paper analyzes relaxation and deformation characteristics of natural leather for shoe uppers, filled with natural minerals montmorillonite and zeolite, and the ability to predict their formation and preservation of shape in service. Features of deformation of the skin with mineral content were assessed by determining single-cycle characteristics when attaching to a complete test cycle "loading-unloading-rest" sample. Correlations of elastic and plastic (permanent) deformation have been established, kinetics of changes in linear characteristics of the samples after removal of the load has been investigated. Introduction of dispersions of mineral to the structure of the dermis contributes to the strength of semi-finished leather, increase of the uniformity of mechanical properties in the longitudinal and transverse directions and rise of shape stability index. It is shown that the direction of this study allows us to offer new competitive ecologically friendly materials to produce shoes.