The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields u...The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields under extreme sea states.The model,integrating the ST6 source term,is validated against observed data,demonstrating its credibility.The spatial distribution of the occurrence probability of strong nonlinear waves during typhoons is shown,and the waves in the straits and the northeastern part of the South China Sea show strong nonlinear characteristics.The high-order spectral model HOS-ocean is employed to simulate the random wave surface series beneath five different platform areas.The waves during the typhoon exhibit strong nonlinear characteristics,and freak waves exist.The space-varying probability model is established to describe the short-term probability distribution of nonlinear wave series.The exceedance probability distributions of the wave surface beneath different platform areas are compared and analyzed.The results show that with an increase in the platform area,the probability of a strong nonlinear wave beneath the platform increases.展开更多
The aim of this study is to investigate the sea surface temperature(SST) cooling as typhoons pass the Kuroshio Current.A numerical circulation model,denoted as the Stony Brook Parallel Ocean Model(sbPOM),was used to s...The aim of this study is to investigate the sea surface temperature(SST) cooling as typhoons pass the Kuroshio Current.A numerical circulation model,denoted as the Stony Brook Parallel Ocean Model(sbPOM),was used to simulate the SST,which includes four wave-induced effect terms(i.e.,radiation stress,nonbreaking waves,Stokes drift,and breaking waves) simulated using the third-generation wave model,called WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ(WW3).The significant wave height(SWH) measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter were used to validate the WW3-simulated results,yielding a root mean square error(RMSE) of less than 0.50 m and a correlation coefficient(COR) of approximately 0.93.The water temperature measured from the Advanced Research and Global Observation Satellite was applied to validate the model simulation.Accordingly,the RMSE of the SST is 0.92℃ with a COR of approximately 0.99.As revealed in the sbPOM-simulated SST fields,a reduction in the SST at the Kuroshio Current region was observed as a typhoon passed,although the water temperature of the Kuroshio Current is relatively high.The variation of the SST is consistent with that of the current,whereas the maximum SST lagged behind the occurrence of the peak SWH.Moreover,the Stokes drift plays an important role in the SST cooling after analyzing four wave-induced terms in the background of the Kuroshio Current.The sensitivity experiment also showed that the accuracy of the water temperature was significantly reduced when including breaking waves,which play a negative role in the inside part of the ocean.The variation in the mean mixing layer depth(MLD) showed that a typhoon could enhance the mean MLD in the Kuroshio Current area in September and October,whereas a typhoon has little influence on the mean MLD in the Kuroshio Current area in May.Moreover,the mean MLD rapidly decreased with the weakening of the strong wind force and wave-induced effects when a typhoon crossed the Kuroshio Current.展开更多
In this paper, the wind field provided by a meso-scale atmospheric model is employed. When main physical processes, including wave-current interactions, are considered, the latest version of the third generation wave ...In this paper, the wind field provided by a meso-scale atmospheric model is employed. When main physical processes, including wave-current interactions, are considered, the latest version of the third generation wave model SWAN is applied to simulate the typhoon wave generated by Typhoon Winnie. The model results are compared with the TOPEX/POSEIDON and ERS-2 satellite altimeter data and analyzed in details. Then the distribution of wave fields are analyzed, with the results showing that applying SWAN to simulate large-scale domain can also fairly reproduce the observed features of waves and realistically reflect the distribution of typhoon waves.展开更多
In this study, we simulated typhoon waves in the shallow waters around the Zhoushan Islands using the WaveWatch-Ⅲ(WW3) model version 5.16, the latest version released by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administr...In this study, we simulated typhoon waves in the shallow waters around the Zhoushan Islands using the WaveWatch-Ⅲ(WW3) model version 5.16, the latest version released by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Specifically, we used in-situ measurements to evaluate the performance of seven packages of input/dissipation source terms in the WW3 model. We forced the WW3 model by wind fields derived from a combination of the parametric Holland model and high-resolution European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) wind data in a 0.125? grid, herein called H-E winds. We trained the H-E winds by fitting a shape parameter B to buoy-measured observations, which resulted in a smallest root mean square error(RMSE) of 3 m s^(-1) for B, when treated as a constant 0.4. Then, we applied the seven input/dissipation terms of WW3, labelled ST1, ST2, ST2+STAB2, ST3, ST3+STAB3, ST4, and ST6, to simulate the significant wave height(SWH) up to 5 m during typhoons Fungwong and Chan-hom around the Zhoushan Islands. We then compared the SWHs of the simulated waves with those measured by the in-situ buoys. The results indicate that the simulation using ST2 performs best with an RMSE of 0.79 m for typhoon Fung-wong and an RMSE of 1.12 m for typhoon Chan-hom. Interestingly, we found the simulated SWH results to be relatively higher than those of the observations in the area between Hangzhou Bay and the Zhoushan Islands. This behavior is worthy of further investigation in the future.展开更多
In this study,typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210),Fung-wong(1416),and Chan-hom(1509))in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)model,and the wind f...In this study,typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210),Fung-wong(1416),and Chan-hom(1509))in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)model,and the wind forcing was constructed by combining reanalyzed wind data with a Holland typhoon wind model.Various parameters,such as the Holland fitting parameter(B)and the maximum wind radius?,were investigated in sensitivity experiments in the Holland model that affect the wind field construction.Six different formulations were considered and the parameters determined by comparing the simulated wind results with in-situ wind measurements.The key factors affecting wave growth and dissipation processes from deep to shallow waters were studied,including wind input,whitecapping,and bottom friction.Comparison with in-situ wave measurements suggested that the KOMEN scheme(wind input exponential growth and whitecapping energy dissipation)and the JONSWAP scheme(dissipation of bottom friction)resulted in good reproduction of the significant wave height of typhoon waves.A preliminary analysis of the wave characteristics in terms of wind-sea and swell wave revealed that swell waves dominated with the distance of R to the eye of the typhoon,while wind-sea prevailed in the outer region up to six to eight times the R values despite a clear misalignment between wind and waves.The results support the hypothesis that nonlinear wave-wave interactions may play a key role in the formation of wave characteristics.展开更多
The simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model has typically been designed for wave simulations in near-shore regions. In this study, the model's applicability to the simulation of typhoon waves in the South China Sea...The simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model has typically been designed for wave simulations in near-shore regions. In this study, the model's applicability to the simulation of typhoon waves in the South China Sea(SCS) was evaluated. A blended wind field, consisting of an interior domain based on Fujita's model and an exterior domain based on Takahashi's model, was used as the driving wind field. The waves driven by Typhoon Kai-tak over the SCS that occurred in 2012 were selected for the numerical simulation research. Sensitivity analyses of time step, grid resolution, and angle resolution were performed in order to obtain optimal model settings. Through sensitivity analyses, it can be found that the time step has a large influence on the results, while grid resolution and angle resolution have a little effect on the results.展开更多
Typhoon Rananim (2004) was one of the severest typhoons landfalling the Chinese mainland from 1996 to 2004. It brought serious damage and induced prodigious economical loss. Using a new generation of mesoscale model...Typhoon Rananim (2004) was one of the severest typhoons landfalling the Chinese mainland from 1996 to 2004. It brought serious damage and induced prodigious economical loss. Using a new generation of mesoscale model, named the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) modeling system, with 1.667 km grid horizontal spacing on the finest nested mesh, Rananim was successfully simulated in terms of track, intensity, eye, eyewall, and spiral rainbands. We compared the structures of Rananim to those of hurricanes in previous studies and observations to assess the validity of simulation. The three-dimensional (3D) dynamic and thermal structures of eye and eyewall were studied based on the simulated results. The focus was investigation of the characteristics of the vortex Rossby waves in the inner-core region. We found that the Rossby vortex waves propagate azimuthally upwind against the azimuthal mean tangential flow around the eyewall, and their period was longer than that of an air parcel moving within the azimuthal mean tangential flow. They also propagated outward against the boundary layer inflow of the azimuthal mean vortex. Puthermore, we studied the connection between the spiral potential vorticity (PV) bands and spiral rainbands, and found that the vortex Rossby waves played an important role in the formation process of spiral rainbands.展开更多
We use the WAVEWATCH-III model to quantify the effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East-China-Sea(ECS).Typhoons Jelawat and Saomai in the autumn of 2000 are hindcasted.The oceanic currents in t...We use the WAVEWATCH-III model to quantify the effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East-China-Sea(ECS).Typhoons Jelawat and Saomai in the autumn of 2000 are hindcasted.The oceanic currents in the ECS are mainly constituted of Kuroshio and typhoon-generated currents.The results show distinguishable differences in wave height and wave period under the typhoon conditions.The oceanic current causes the maximum differences,of up to a 0.5 m significant wave height and a 1 s mean wave period.Comparisons between typhoons Jelawat and Saomai show the dependence of the current effect on the typhoon characteristics.展开更多
Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Pe...Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Peninsula. Ocean circulation and wind-wave models have traditionally been run separately, but recent researches have identified potentially important interactions between current and wave motions. The coupled tide-surge and the WAM wave models at the atmospheric boundary layer and bottom boundary layer around the Korea Peninsula are applied for the Typhoon Maemi (0314) event. Communication between the models is aehievod using MPI. Results are compared with coastal tide gauges and moored wave buoys and comparisons are also made between wave computations from the coupled model and the independent third generation wave models. Results suggest that applying the fide-surge-coupled model can be an effective means of obtaining wave and storm surge predictions simultaneously.展开更多
An integrally coupled wave-tide-surge model was developed and then applied to the simulation of the wave-typhoon surge for the typhoon Isewan (typhoon Vera (5915)), which is the strongest typhoon that has struck J...An integrally coupled wave-tide-surge model was developed and then applied to the simulation of the wave-typhoon surge for the typhoon Isewan (typhoon Vera (5915)), which is the strongest typhoon that has struck Japan and caused incalculable damage. An integrally coupled tide-surge-wave model using identical and homogeneous meshes in an unstructured grid system was used to correctly resolve the physics of wave-circulation interaction in both models. All model components were validated independently. The storm surge and wave properties such as the surge height, the significant wave height, wave period and direction were reproduced reasonably under the meteorological forcing, which was reprocessed to be close to the observations. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for the prediction of the storm surge and waves and the usual barotropic forecast.展开更多
This study aims to estimate and predict the impact of climate change on typhoons and wave overtopping during typhoon progresses in Qingdao, China. The SWAN wave model is used to simulate wave elements. The scale coeff...This study aims to estimate and predict the impact of climate change on typhoons and wave overtopping during typhoon progresses in Qingdao, China. The SWAN wave model is used to simulate wave elements. The scale coefficients of wave overtopping are estimated using an empirical prediction formula. A total of 75 tropical cyclones affected Qingdao from 1949 to 2019. These tropical cyclones can be grouped into eight categories according to typhoon tracks. Typhoon wind speed during Track G is projected to decrease, and those of the other seven typhoon progresses will increase by 0.35% – 0.75% in 2025, 0.69% – 1.5% in 2035, and 1.38% – 3.0% in 2055. The significant wave height and wave overtopping outside the bay are greater than those inside the bay. Among the 506 typical points selected, the maximum values of the significant wave height and wave overtopping inside the bay are mainly distributed in the range of 0 – 2 m and 0 – 60 m^3 km^(-1) s^(-1), respectively. The increments of the significant wave height and wave overtopping of Track F are most obvious. The significant wave height of Track F will increase by 50.5% in 2025, 51.8% in 2035, and 53.4% in 2055. In the 2℃ scenario, the maximum value of wave overtopping of Track F will increase by 21.9% in 2025, 24.3% in 2035, and 29.5% in 2055. In the 4℃ scenario, the maximum value of wave overtopping of Track F will increase by 21.9% in 2025, 24.3% in 2035, and 29.5% in 2055.展开更多
This study examined the characteristics and vertical propagation of near inertial waves(NIWs)induced by Typhoon Linfa(2015),based on in situ observations conducted southeast of Dongsha Islands in the South China Sea.T...This study examined the characteristics and vertical propagation of near inertial waves(NIWs)induced by Typhoon Linfa(2015),based on in situ observations conducted southeast of Dongsha Islands in the South China Sea.The results demonstrate that the near inertial currents induced by Linfa had velocities up to 35 cm s^-1 in the mixed layer and 20 cm s^-1 in the ocean interior.The near inertial currents were polarized with predominantly clockwise-rotating components,the magnitudes of which were about 10 times larger than the counter-clockwise rotating components.The energy density spectrum showed that the emergence of NIWs resulted in energy redistribution from the diurnal band to the near inertial band.The wavenumber spectrum and the downward/upward current decomposition demonstrated that the NIWs and energy flux propagated mainly downward.The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 1.44 and 0.48 m h-1,respectively,corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 49.7 m.The e-folding time scale was 7.5 d based on the near inertial kinetic energy in the ocean interior.We found no obvious wave–wave interaction during the decay process of the NIWs.The frequency was blue-shifted,being 0.03 f0 higher than the local inertial frequency,which was caused by the background vorticity.The normal mode analysis suggests that the higher mode plays a dominant role in the propagation stage of the NIWs.展开更多
A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle. The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a conti...A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle. The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a continuous one, having eight parameters which can be determined in terms of observed data of typhoon occurrence-frequency and extreme wave heights by numerically solving two sets of equations derived in this paper. The model is examined by using it to predict the N-year return-period wave height at two hydrology stations in the Yellow Sea, and the predicted results are compared with those predicted by use of some other compound distribution models. Examinations and comparisons show that the model has some advantages for predicting the N-year return-period wave height in typhoon-affected sea areas.展开更多
In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea(SCS). A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves(NIWs) commenced after Nes...In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea(SCS). A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves(NIWs) commenced after Nesat passed the array. The associated near-inertial currents are surface-intensified and clockwise-polarized. The vertical range of NIWs reached 300 m, where the vertical range is defined as the maximum depth of the horizontal near-inertial velocity 5 cm/s. The current oscillations have a frequency of 0.709 9 cycles per day(cpd), which is 0.025 f higher than the local inertial frequency. The NIWs have an e-folding time-scale of 10 d based on the evolution of the near-inertial kinetic energy. The depth-leading phase of near-inertial currents indicates downward group velocity and energy flux. The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 0.27 and 0.08 cm/s respectively, corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 329 m. A spectral analysis reveals that NIWs act as a crucial process to redistribute the energy injected by Typhoon Nesat. A normal mode and an empirical orthogonal function analysis indicate that the second mode has a dominant variance contribution of 81%, and the corresponding horizontal phase velocity and wavelength are 3.50 m/s and 420 km respectively. The remarkable large horizontal phase velocity is relevant to the rotation of the earth, and a quantitative analysis suggests that the phase velocity of the NIWs with a blue-shift of 0.025 f overwhelms that of internal gravity waves by a factor of 4.6.展开更多
The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated.The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating w...The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated.The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating waves nearshore model(SWAN),in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)Re-Analysis-Interim(ERA-interim),the National Centers for Environmental Prediction climate forecast system version 2(CFSv2)and cross-calibrated multi-platform(CCMP)datasets.Firstly,the typhoon waves generated during the occurrence of typhoons Chan-hom(1509),Linfa(1510)and Nangka(1511)in 2015 were simulated by using the wave model driven by ERA-interim,CFSv2 and CCMP datasets.The numerical results were validated using buoy data and satellite observation data,and the simulation results under the three types of wind fields were in good agreement with the observed data.The numerical results showed that the CCMP wind data was the best in simulating waves overall,and the wind speeds pertaining to ERA-Interim and CCMP were notably smaller than those observed near the typhoon centre.To correct the accuracy of the wind fields,the Holland theoretical wind model was used to revise and optimize the wind speed pertaining to the CCMP near the typhoon centre.The results indicated that the CCMP wind-driven SWAN model could appropriately simulate the typhoon waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China,and the use of the CCMP/Holland blended wind field could effectively improve the accuracy of typhoon wave simulations.展开更多
The effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model is investigated.Drag coefficients for Pingtan Island are derived from the progress of nine typhoons using COARE 3.0 software.The wind parameters are obtained ...The effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model is investigated.Drag coefficients for Pingtan Island are derived from the progress of nine typhoons using COARE 3.0 software.The wind parameters are obtained using the Weather Research and Forecasting model.The simulation of wind agrees well with observations.Typhoon wave fields are then simulated using the third-generation wave model SWAN.The wave model includes exponential and linear growths of the wind input,which determine the wave-growth mode.A triple triangular mesh is adopted with spatial resolution as fine as 100 m nearshore.The SWAN model performs better when using the new drag coefficient rather than the original coefficient.展开更多
Buoy-based observations of wave spectra during the passage of three typhoons in the northern South China Sea are examined.Though most spectra of mature typhoon-generated waves are unimodal,double-peaked spectra accoun...Buoy-based observations of wave spectra during the passage of three typhoons in the northern South China Sea are examined.Though most spectra of mature typhoon-generated waves are unimodal,double-peaked spectra account for a significant proportion during the growing and decaying stages.This is due either to the superposition of swells on local wind waves or to the mechanism of nonlinear interaction between different wave components.The growth rate of energy density is an effective way to predict spectrum variation.The dominant wave direction depends on the location of the typhoon center to the site,but the direction spread shows no regularity in distant regions.In this study,a new six-parameter spectral formula is proposed to represent doublepeaked spectra and is shown to provide a better fit than previous models.The theoretical relationship between shape parameter and spectral width is still applicable to each peak.The characteristics of the variations of spectral parameters are analyzed.It is demonstrated that the spectral parameters are not only related to the typhoon intensity and typhoon track,but also have strong intercorrelations.Moreover,the growth relation between significant wave height and significant wave period is obtained to fit the typhoon-generated waves.展开更多
In this paper, we apply an unstructured grid coastal ocean model to simulate variations in the sea level and currents forced by two typhoons in the northwestern South China Sea(SCS). The model simulations show distinc...In this paper, we apply an unstructured grid coastal ocean model to simulate variations in the sea level and currents forced by two typhoons in the northwestern South China Sea(SCS). The model simulations show distinct differences for the two cases in which the typhoon paths were north and south of the Qiongzhou(QZ) Strait. In both cases, coastal trapped waves(CTWs) are stimulated but their propagation behaviors differ. Model sensitivity simulations suggest the dominant role played by alongshore wind in the eastern SCS(near Shanwei) and southeast of Hainan Island. We also examine the influence of the Leizhou Peninsula by changing the coastline in simulation experiments. Based on our results, we can draw the following conclusions: 1) The CTWs stimulated by the northern typhoon are stronger than the southern CTW. 2) In the two cases, the directions of the current structures of the QZ cross-transect are reversed. The strongest flow cores are both located in the middle-upper area of the strait and the results of our empirical orthogonal function analysis show that the vertical structure is highly barotropic. 3) The simulated CTWs divide into two branches in the QZ Strait for the northern typhoon, and an island trapped wave(ITW) around Hainan Island for the southern typhoon. 4) The Leizhou Peninsula plays a significant role in the distribution of the kinetic energy flux between the two CTW branches. In the presence of the Leizhou Peninsula, the QZ branch has only 39.7 percent of the total energy, whereas that ratio increases to 72.2 percent in its absence.展开更多
Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communit...Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communities. However, due to the complex hydrological and meteorological interaction and uncertainties arising from different modeling systems, quantifying the uncertainties and improving the forecasting accuracy of modeled typhoon-induced waves remain challenging. This paper presents a practical approach to optimizing model-ensemble wave heights in an attempt to improve the accuracy of real-time typhoon wave forecasting. A locally weighted learning algorithm is used to obtain the weights for the wave heights computed by the WAVEWATCH III wave model driven by winds from four different weather models (model-ensembles). The optimized weights are subsequently used to calculate the resulting wave heights from the model-ensembles. The results show that the opti- mization is capable of capturing the different behavioral effects of the different weather models on wave generation. Comparison with the measurements at the selected wave buoy locations shows that the optimized weights, obtained through a training process, can significantly improve the accuracy of the forecasted wave heights over the standard mean values, particularly for typhoon-induced peak waves. The results also indicate that the algorithm is easy to imnlement and practieal for real-time wave forecasting.展开更多
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven(1215)(TYB) in the East China Sea(ECS) and Yellow Sea(YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon.Winds an...Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven(1215)(TYB) in the East China Sea(ECS) and Yellow Sea(YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon.Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys.In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred,analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations.TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements.And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model.Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of C_d for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area.Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced,and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before.It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track.As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days,the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.展开更多
基金financially supported by the National Key R&D Program of China(No.2022YFC3104205)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.42377457).
文摘The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields under extreme sea states.The model,integrating the ST6 source term,is validated against observed data,demonstrating its credibility.The spatial distribution of the occurrence probability of strong nonlinear waves during typhoons is shown,and the waves in the straits and the northeastern part of the South China Sea show strong nonlinear characteristics.The high-order spectral model HOS-ocean is employed to simulate the random wave surface series beneath five different platform areas.The waves during the typhoon exhibit strong nonlinear characteristics,and freak waves exist.The space-varying probability model is established to describe the short-term probability distribution of nonlinear wave series.The exceedance probability distributions of the wave surface beneath different platform areas are compared and analyzed.The results show that with an increase in the platform area,the probability of a strong nonlinear wave beneath the platform increases.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.42076238,42176012,and 42130402)the National Key Research and Development Program of China(No.2021YFC3101702)the Shanghai Frontiers Research Center of the Hadal Biosphere.
文摘The aim of this study is to investigate the sea surface temperature(SST) cooling as typhoons pass the Kuroshio Current.A numerical circulation model,denoted as the Stony Brook Parallel Ocean Model(sbPOM),was used to simulate the SST,which includes four wave-induced effect terms(i.e.,radiation stress,nonbreaking waves,Stokes drift,and breaking waves) simulated using the third-generation wave model,called WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ(WW3).The significant wave height(SWH) measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter were used to validate the WW3-simulated results,yielding a root mean square error(RMSE) of less than 0.50 m and a correlation coefficient(COR) of approximately 0.93.The water temperature measured from the Advanced Research and Global Observation Satellite was applied to validate the model simulation.Accordingly,the RMSE of the SST is 0.92℃ with a COR of approximately 0.99.As revealed in the sbPOM-simulated SST fields,a reduction in the SST at the Kuroshio Current region was observed as a typhoon passed,although the water temperature of the Kuroshio Current is relatively high.The variation of the SST is consistent with that of the current,whereas the maximum SST lagged behind the occurrence of the peak SWH.Moreover,the Stokes drift plays an important role in the SST cooling after analyzing four wave-induced terms in the background of the Kuroshio Current.The sensitivity experiment also showed that the accuracy of the water temperature was significantly reduced when including breaking waves,which play a negative role in the inside part of the ocean.The variation in the mean mixing layer depth(MLD) showed that a typhoon could enhance the mean MLD in the Kuroshio Current area in September and October,whereas a typhoon has little influence on the mean MLD in the Kuroshio Current area in May.Moreover,the mean MLD rapidly decreased with the weakening of the strong wind force and wave-induced effects when a typhoon crossed the Kuroshio Current.
基金Experiments Coupling Typhoons, Waves and Storm Surges in the South China Sea andEstimation and Prediction of Typhoon-inflicted Disasters, a project from the Research Fund for Tropical andMarine MeteorologyNatural Science Foundation of China (40333026)
文摘In this paper, the wind field provided by a meso-scale atmospheric model is employed. When main physical processes, including wave-current interactions, are considered, the latest version of the third generation wave model SWAN is applied to simulate the typhoon wave generated by Typhoon Winnie. The model results are compared with the TOPEX/POSEIDON and ERS-2 satellite altimeter data and analyzed in details. Then the distribution of wave fields are analyzed, with the results showing that applying SWAN to simulate large-scale domain can also fairly reproduce the observed features of waves and realistically reflect the distribution of typhoon waves.
基金partly supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China under contract (Nos. 2017YFA0604901, 2016YFC 1401002 and 2016YFC1402000)the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract (Nos. 41776 183, 41606024 and 41506033)
文摘In this study, we simulated typhoon waves in the shallow waters around the Zhoushan Islands using the WaveWatch-Ⅲ(WW3) model version 5.16, the latest version released by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Specifically, we used in-situ measurements to evaluate the performance of seven packages of input/dissipation source terms in the WW3 model. We forced the WW3 model by wind fields derived from a combination of the parametric Holland model and high-resolution European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) wind data in a 0.125? grid, herein called H-E winds. We trained the H-E winds by fitting a shape parameter B to buoy-measured observations, which resulted in a smallest root mean square error(RMSE) of 3 m s^(-1) for B, when treated as a constant 0.4. Then, we applied the seven input/dissipation terms of WW3, labelled ST1, ST2, ST2+STAB2, ST3, ST3+STAB3, ST4, and ST6, to simulate the significant wave height(SWH) up to 5 m during typhoons Fungwong and Chan-hom around the Zhoushan Islands. We then compared the SWHs of the simulated waves with those measured by the in-situ buoys. The results indicate that the simulation using ST2 performs best with an RMSE of 0.79 m for typhoon Fung-wong and an RMSE of 1.12 m for typhoon Chan-hom. Interestingly, we found the simulated SWH results to be relatively higher than those of the observations in the area between Hangzhou Bay and the Zhoushan Islands. This behavior is worthy of further investigation in the future.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.U1706216,41606024,41506023)the National Key Research and Development Program of China(Nos.2016YFC1402000,2018YFC1407003)+2 种基金the CAS Strategic Priority Project(No.XDA19060202)the NSFC Innovative Group Grant Project(No.41421005)the NSFC-Shandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers Grant(No.U1406402)
文摘In this study,typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210),Fung-wong(1416),and Chan-hom(1509))in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)model,and the wind forcing was constructed by combining reanalyzed wind data with a Holland typhoon wind model.Various parameters,such as the Holland fitting parameter(B)and the maximum wind radius?,were investigated in sensitivity experiments in the Holland model that affect the wind field construction.Six different formulations were considered and the parameters determined by comparing the simulated wind results with in-situ wind measurements.The key factors affecting wave growth and dissipation processes from deep to shallow waters were studied,including wind input,whitecapping,and bottom friction.Comparison with in-situ wave measurements suggested that the KOMEN scheme(wind input exponential growth and whitecapping energy dissipation)and the JONSWAP scheme(dissipation of bottom friction)resulted in good reproduction of the significant wave height of typhoon waves.A preliminary analysis of the wave characteristics in terms of wind-sea and swell wave revealed that swell waves dominated with the distance of R to the eye of the typhoon,while wind-sea prevailed in the outer region up to six to eight times the R values despite a clear misalignment between wind and waves.The results support the hypothesis that nonlinear wave-wave interactions may play a key role in the formation of wave characteristics.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grants No.51239001,51179015,and 51509023)the Open Research Foundation of the Key Laboratory of the Pearl River Estuarine Dynamics and Associated Process Regulation,the Ministry of Water Resources(Grant No.2018KJ03)+1 种基金the Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province(Grant No.2017SS04)the Key Laboratory of Technology for Safeguarding of Maritime Rights and Interests and Application,State Oceanic Administration(Grant No.SCS1606)
文摘The simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model has typically been designed for wave simulations in near-shore regions. In this study, the model's applicability to the simulation of typhoon waves in the South China Sea(SCS) was evaluated. A blended wind field, consisting of an interior domain based on Fujita's model and an exterior domain based on Takahashi's model, was used as the driving wind field. The waves driven by Typhoon Kai-tak over the SCS that occurred in 2012 were selected for the numerical simulation research. Sensitivity analyses of time step, grid resolution, and angle resolution were performed in order to obtain optimal model settings. Through sensitivity analyses, it can be found that the time step has a large influence on the results, while grid resolution and angle resolution have a little effect on the results.
基金supported by the National Key Basic Research and Development Project of China (Grant Nos. 2004CB418301,2009CB421503)National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 40775033)the Chinese Special Scientific Research Project for Public Interest (Grant No.GYHY200806009)
文摘Typhoon Rananim (2004) was one of the severest typhoons landfalling the Chinese mainland from 1996 to 2004. It brought serious damage and induced prodigious economical loss. Using a new generation of mesoscale model, named the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) modeling system, with 1.667 km grid horizontal spacing on the finest nested mesh, Rananim was successfully simulated in terms of track, intensity, eye, eyewall, and spiral rainbands. We compared the structures of Rananim to those of hurricanes in previous studies and observations to assess the validity of simulation. The three-dimensional (3D) dynamic and thermal structures of eye and eyewall were studied based on the simulated results. The focus was investigation of the characteristics of the vortex Rossby waves in the inner-core region. We found that the Rossby vortex waves propagate azimuthally upwind against the azimuthal mean tangential flow around the eyewall, and their period was longer than that of an air parcel moving within the azimuthal mean tangential flow. They also propagated outward against the boundary layer inflow of the azimuthal mean vortex. Puthermore, we studied the connection between the spiral potential vorticity (PV) bands and spiral rainbands, and found that the vortex Rossby waves played an important role in the formation process of spiral rainbands.
基金Project supported by the Public Science and Technology Research Funds of Ocean (Grant No. 201105018)the Young Scientist Fund of the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 41106019)+1 种基金the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province of China (Grant No. BK2012315)the Young Scientist Fund of State Oceanic Administration,China (Grant No. 2011258)
文摘We use the WAVEWATCH-III model to quantify the effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East-China-Sea(ECS).Typhoons Jelawat and Saomai in the autumn of 2000 are hindcasted.The oceanic currents in the ECS are mainly constituted of Kuroshio and typhoon-generated currents.The results show distinguishable differences in wave height and wave period under the typhoon conditions.The oceanic current causes the maximum differences,of up to a 0.5 m significant wave height and a 1 s mean wave period.Comparisons between typhoons Jelawat and Saomai show the dependence of the current effect on the typhoon characteristics.
文摘Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Peninsula. Ocean circulation and wind-wave models have traditionally been run separately, but recent researches have identified potentially important interactions between current and wave motions. The coupled tide-surge and the WAM wave models at the atmospheric boundary layer and bottom boundary layer around the Korea Peninsula are applied for the Typhoon Maemi (0314) event. Communication between the models is aehievod using MPI. Results are compared with coastal tide gauges and moored wave buoys and comparisons are also made between wave computations from the coupled model and the independent third generation wave models. Results suggest that applying the fide-surge-coupled model can be an effective means of obtaining wave and storm surge predictions simultaneously.
基金supported by the China-Korea Cooperative Research Project funded by CKJORCa major project titled the development of the marine environmental impact prediction system funded by KIOSTsupported by the project of KISTI for the development of HPC-based management system against national-scale disaster
文摘An integrally coupled wave-tide-surge model was developed and then applied to the simulation of the wave-typhoon surge for the typhoon Isewan (typhoon Vera (5915)), which is the strongest typhoon that has struck Japan and caused incalculable damage. An integrally coupled tide-surge-wave model using identical and homogeneous meshes in an unstructured grid system was used to correctly resolve the physics of wave-circulation interaction in both models. All model components were validated independently. The storm surge and wave properties such as the surge height, the significant wave height, wave period and direction were reproduced reasonably under the meteorological forcing, which was reprocessed to be close to the observations. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for the prediction of the storm surge and waves and the usual barotropic forecast.
基金supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China (No. 2016YFC1401103)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 51779236)+1 种基金the International Cooperation Projects (No. INTASAVE ACCC-045)the Open Fund of Shandong Province Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering。
文摘This study aims to estimate and predict the impact of climate change on typhoons and wave overtopping during typhoon progresses in Qingdao, China. The SWAN wave model is used to simulate wave elements. The scale coefficients of wave overtopping are estimated using an empirical prediction formula. A total of 75 tropical cyclones affected Qingdao from 1949 to 2019. These tropical cyclones can be grouped into eight categories according to typhoon tracks. Typhoon wind speed during Track G is projected to decrease, and those of the other seven typhoon progresses will increase by 0.35% – 0.75% in 2025, 0.69% – 1.5% in 2035, and 1.38% – 3.0% in 2055. The significant wave height and wave overtopping outside the bay are greater than those inside the bay. Among the 506 typical points selected, the maximum values of the significant wave height and wave overtopping inside the bay are mainly distributed in the range of 0 – 2 m and 0 – 60 m^3 km^(-1) s^(-1), respectively. The increments of the significant wave height and wave overtopping of Track F are most obvious. The significant wave height of Track F will increase by 50.5% in 2025, 51.8% in 2035, and 53.4% in 2055. In the 2℃ scenario, the maximum value of wave overtopping of Track F will increase by 21.9% in 2025, 24.3% in 2035, and 29.5% in 2055. In the 4℃ scenario, the maximum value of wave overtopping of Track F will increase by 21.9% in 2025, 24.3% in 2035, and 29.5% in 2055.
基金supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China (No. 2017YFC1404201)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Nos. 41706035, 41876027 and 41876029)+2 种基金the Laboratory for Regional Oceanography and Numerical Modeling, Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology (No. 2017A01)China Postdoctoral Science Foundation (No. 2017M622111)the NSFC-Shandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers (No. U1606405)
文摘This study examined the characteristics and vertical propagation of near inertial waves(NIWs)induced by Typhoon Linfa(2015),based on in situ observations conducted southeast of Dongsha Islands in the South China Sea.The results demonstrate that the near inertial currents induced by Linfa had velocities up to 35 cm s^-1 in the mixed layer and 20 cm s^-1 in the ocean interior.The near inertial currents were polarized with predominantly clockwise-rotating components,the magnitudes of which were about 10 times larger than the counter-clockwise rotating components.The energy density spectrum showed that the emergence of NIWs resulted in energy redistribution from the diurnal band to the near inertial band.The wavenumber spectrum and the downward/upward current decomposition demonstrated that the NIWs and energy flux propagated mainly downward.The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 1.44 and 0.48 m h-1,respectively,corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 49.7 m.The e-folding time scale was 7.5 d based on the near inertial kinetic energy in the ocean interior.We found no obvious wave–wave interaction during the decay process of the NIWs.The frequency was blue-shifted,being 0.03 f0 higher than the local inertial frequency,which was caused by the background vorticity.The normal mode analysis suggests that the higher mode plays a dominant role in the propagation stage of the NIWs.
基金supported by the Open Fund of the Key Laboratory of Research on Marine Hazards Forecasting (Grant No.LOMF1101)the Shanghai Typhoon Research Fund (Grant No. 2009ST05)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No. 40776006)
文摘A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle. The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a continuous one, having eight parameters which can be determined in terms of observed data of typhoon occurrence-frequency and extreme wave heights by numerically solving two sets of equations derived in this paper. The model is examined by using it to predict the N-year return-period wave height at two hydrology stations in the Yellow Sea, and the predicted results are compared with those predicted by use of some other compound distribution models. Examinations and comparisons show that the model has some advantages for predicting the N-year return-period wave height in typhoon-affected sea areas.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos U1133001,41030855 and 41376027the National High Technology Research and Development Program(863 Program)of China under contract No.2013AA09A502
文摘In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea(SCS). A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves(NIWs) commenced after Nesat passed the array. The associated near-inertial currents are surface-intensified and clockwise-polarized. The vertical range of NIWs reached 300 m, where the vertical range is defined as the maximum depth of the horizontal near-inertial velocity 5 cm/s. The current oscillations have a frequency of 0.709 9 cycles per day(cpd), which is 0.025 f higher than the local inertial frequency. The NIWs have an e-folding time-scale of 10 d based on the evolution of the near-inertial kinetic energy. The depth-leading phase of near-inertial currents indicates downward group velocity and energy flux. The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 0.27 and 0.08 cm/s respectively, corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 329 m. A spectral analysis reveals that NIWs act as a crucial process to redistribute the energy injected by Typhoon Nesat. A normal mode and an empirical orthogonal function analysis indicate that the second mode has a dominant variance contribution of 81%, and the corresponding horizontal phase velocity and wavelength are 3.50 m/s and 420 km respectively. The remarkable large horizontal phase velocity is relevant to the rotation of the earth, and a quantitative analysis suggests that the phase velocity of the NIWs with a blue-shift of 0.025 f overwhelms that of internal gravity waves by a factor of 4.6.
基金The Key Special Project for Introduced Talents Team of Southern Marine Science and Engineering Guangdong Laboratory(Guangzhou)under contract No.GML2019ZD0403the Program for Guangdong Introducing Innovative and Enterpreneurial Teams under contract No.2019ZT08L213the Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory Project under contract No.2019B121203011
文摘The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated.The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating waves nearshore model(SWAN),in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)Re-Analysis-Interim(ERA-interim),the National Centers for Environmental Prediction climate forecast system version 2(CFSv2)and cross-calibrated multi-platform(CCMP)datasets.Firstly,the typhoon waves generated during the occurrence of typhoons Chan-hom(1509),Linfa(1510)and Nangka(1511)in 2015 were simulated by using the wave model driven by ERA-interim,CFSv2 and CCMP datasets.The numerical results were validated using buoy data and satellite observation data,and the simulation results under the three types of wind fields were in good agreement with the observed data.The numerical results showed that the CCMP wind data was the best in simulating waves overall,and the wind speeds pertaining to ERA-Interim and CCMP were notably smaller than those observed near the typhoon centre.To correct the accuracy of the wind fields,the Holland theoretical wind model was used to revise and optimize the wind speed pertaining to the CCMP near the typhoon centre.The results indicated that the CCMP wind-driven SWAN model could appropriately simulate the typhoon waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China,and the use of the CCMP/Holland blended wind field could effectively improve the accuracy of typhoon wave simulations.
基金Supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China(No.2016YFC1402000)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.51509226,51779236)
文摘The effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model is investigated.Drag coefficients for Pingtan Island are derived from the progress of nine typhoons using COARE 3.0 software.The wind parameters are obtained using the Weather Research and Forecasting model.The simulation of wind agrees well with observations.Typhoon wave fields are then simulated using the third-generation wave model SWAN.The wave model includes exponential and linear growths of the wind input,which determine the wave-growth mode.A triple triangular mesh is adopted with spatial resolution as fine as 100 m nearshore.The SWAN model performs better when using the new drag coefficient rather than the original coefficient.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.U1706216the National Key Research and Development Program of China under contract Nos 2016YFC1402000 and 2018YFC1407003+1 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41406017,U1406402 and 41421005the CAS Strategic Priority Project under contract Nos XDA19060202and XDA19060502
文摘Buoy-based observations of wave spectra during the passage of three typhoons in the northern South China Sea are examined.Though most spectra of mature typhoon-generated waves are unimodal,double-peaked spectra account for a significant proportion during the growing and decaying stages.This is due either to the superposition of swells on local wind waves or to the mechanism of nonlinear interaction between different wave components.The growth rate of energy density is an effective way to predict spectrum variation.The dominant wave direction depends on the location of the typhoon center to the site,but the direction spread shows no regularity in distant regions.In this study,a new six-parameter spectral formula is proposed to represent doublepeaked spectra and is shown to provide a better fit than previous models.The theoretical relationship between shape parameter and spectral width is still applicable to each peak.The characteristics of the variations of spectral parameters are analyzed.It is demonstrated that the spectral parameters are not only related to the typhoon intensity and typhoon track,but also have strong intercorrelations.Moreover,the growth relation between significant wave height and significant wave period is obtained to fit the typhoon-generated waves.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.41266002,41406031,41406044)the Special Fund for Basic Scientific Research Business of Central Public Research Institutes(No.2015P02)the Fund of Key Laboratory of Global Change and Marine-Atmospheric Chemistry,SOA(No.GCMAC1308)for their support
文摘In this paper, we apply an unstructured grid coastal ocean model to simulate variations in the sea level and currents forced by two typhoons in the northwestern South China Sea(SCS). The model simulations show distinct differences for the two cases in which the typhoon paths were north and south of the Qiongzhou(QZ) Strait. In both cases, coastal trapped waves(CTWs) are stimulated but their propagation behaviors differ. Model sensitivity simulations suggest the dominant role played by alongshore wind in the eastern SCS(near Shanwei) and southeast of Hainan Island. We also examine the influence of the Leizhou Peninsula by changing the coastline in simulation experiments. Based on our results, we can draw the following conclusions: 1) The CTWs stimulated by the northern typhoon are stronger than the southern CTW. 2) In the two cases, the directions of the current structures of the QZ cross-transect are reversed. The strongest flow cores are both located in the middle-upper area of the strait and the results of our empirical orthogonal function analysis show that the vertical structure is highly barotropic. 3) The simulated CTWs divide into two branches in the QZ Strait for the northern typhoon, and an island trapped wave(ITW) around Hainan Island for the southern typhoon. 4) The Leizhou Peninsula plays a significant role in the distribution of the kinetic energy flux between the two CTW branches. In the presence of the Leizhou Peninsula, the QZ branch has only 39.7 percent of the total energy, whereas that ratio increases to 72.2 percent in its absence.
基金supported by the European Commission within FP7-THEME 6(Grant No.244104)the Natural Environment Research Council(NERC)of the UK(Grant No.NE/J005541/1)the Ministry of Science and Technology(MOST)of Taiwan(Grant No.MOST 104-2221-E-006-183)
文摘Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communities. However, due to the complex hydrological and meteorological interaction and uncertainties arising from different modeling systems, quantifying the uncertainties and improving the forecasting accuracy of modeled typhoon-induced waves remain challenging. This paper presents a practical approach to optimizing model-ensemble wave heights in an attempt to improve the accuracy of real-time typhoon wave forecasting. A locally weighted learning algorithm is used to obtain the weights for the wave heights computed by the WAVEWATCH III wave model driven by winds from four different weather models (model-ensembles). The optimized weights are subsequently used to calculate the resulting wave heights from the model-ensembles. The results show that the opti- mization is capable of capturing the different behavioral effects of the different weather models on wave generation. Comparison with the measurements at the selected wave buoy locations shows that the optimized weights, obtained through a training process, can significantly improve the accuracy of the forecasted wave heights over the standard mean values, particularly for typhoon-induced peak waves. The results also indicate that the algorithm is easy to imnlement and practieal for real-time wave forecasting.
基金The Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries of Korea-"The Research and Development on Coastal Hydraulic Investigation of Busan New Port"and"Cooperative Project on Korea-China Bilateral Committee on Ocean Science"the Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology(KIOST)Project under contract No.PE99325+1 种基金the China-Korea Joint Ocean Research Center(CKJORC)-"Cooperation on the Development of Basic Technologies for the Yellow Sea and East China Sea Operational Oceanographic System(YOOS)"the Nuclear Safety Project of CKJORC and Major Project of KIOST under contract No.PE99304
文摘Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven(1215)(TYB) in the East China Sea(ECS) and Yellow Sea(YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon.Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys.In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred,analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations.TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements.And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model.Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of C_d for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area.Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced,and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before.It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track.As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days,the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.