Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical w...Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical wave model is formulated. The model＇s linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ ≌ 1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulat- ed and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numer- ically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.展开更多
To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave mode...To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.展开更多
The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact t...The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact the southeast coast of China if tsunamis occur in these areas. In this paper, the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq model is used to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and runnp in a domain with complex geometrical boundaries. The temporary varying bottom boundary condition is adopted to describe the initial tsunami waves motivated by the submarine faults. The Indian Ocean tsunami is simulated by the numerical model as a validation case. The time series of water elevation and runup on the beach are compared with the measured data from field survey. The agreements indicate that the Boussinesq model can be used to simulate tsunamis and predict the waveform and runup. Then, the hypothetical tsunamis in the Okinawa Trench and the Manila Trench are simulated by the numerical model. The arrival time and maximum wave height near coastal cities are predicted by the model. It turns out that the leading depression N-wave occurs when the tsunami propagates in the continental shelf from the Okinawa Trench. The scenarios of the tsunami in the Manila Trench demonstrate significant effects on the coastal area around the South China Sea.展开更多
In this paper, we study the long time behavior of solution to the initial boundary value problem for a class of Kirchhoff-Boussinesq model flow . We first prove the wellness of the solutions. Then we establish the exi...In this paper, we study the long time behavior of solution to the initial boundary value problem for a class of Kirchhoff-Boussinesq model flow . We first prove the wellness of the solutions. Then we establish the existence of global attractor. 展开更多
A new type Boussinesq model is proposed and applied for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth and over a submerged bar with current present or absent,respectively.Firstly,for the propagation of monochromat...A new type Boussinesq model is proposed and applied for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth and over a submerged bar with current present or absent,respectively.Firstly,for the propagation of monochromatic incident wave with current absent,the Boussinesq model is tested in its complete form,and in a form without the introduction of utility velocity variables.It is validated that the introduction of utility velocity variables can improve the characteristics of velocity field,dispersion and nonlinearity.Both versions of the Boussinesq models are of higher accuracy than the fully-nonlinear fourth-order model,which is one of the best forms among the existing traditional Boussinesq models that do not incorporate breaking mechanism in one dimension.Secondly,the Boussinesq model in its complete form is applied to simulating the propagation of bichromatic incident waves with current present or absent,respectively,and the modeled results are compared to the analytical ones or the experimental ones.The modeled results are reasonable in the case of inputting bichromatic incident waves with the strong opposing current present.展开更多
The conventional Boussinesq model is extended to the third order in dispersion and nonlinearity. The new equations are shown to possess better linear dispersion characteristics. For the evolution of periodic waves ove...The conventional Boussinesq model is extended to the third order in dispersion and nonlinearity. The new equations are shown to possess better linear dispersion characteristics. For the evolution of periodic waves over a constant depth, the computed wave envelops are spatially aperiodic and skew. The model is then applied to the study of wave focusing by a topographical lens and the results are compared with Whalin′s (1971) experimental data as well as some previous results from the conventional Boussinesq model. Encouragingly, improved agreement with Whalin′s experimental data is found. [WT5”HZ]展开更多
This study presents an efficient Boussinesq-type wave model accelerated by a single Graphics Processing Unit(GPU).The model uses the hybrid finite volume and finite difference method to solve weakly dispersive and non...This study presents an efficient Boussinesq-type wave model accelerated by a single Graphics Processing Unit(GPU).The model uses the hybrid finite volume and finite difference method to solve weakly dispersive and nonlinear Boussinesq equations in the horizontal plane,enabling the model to have the shock-capturing ability to deal with breaking waves and moving shoreline properly.The code is written in CUDA C.To achieve better performance,the model uses cyclic reduction technique to solve massive tridiagonal linear systems and overlapped tiling/shared memory to reduce global memory access and enhance data reuse.Four numerical tests are conducted to validate the GPU implementation.The performance of the GPU model is evaluated by running a series of numerical simulations on two GPU platforms with different hardware configurations.Compared with the CPU version,the maximum speedup ratios for single-precision and double-precision calculations are 55.56 and 32.57,respectively.展开更多
In this paper, we study the higher dimensional nonlinear Rossby waves under the generalized beta effect.Using methods of the multiple scales and weak nonlinear perturbation expansions [Q. S. Liu, et al., Phys. Lett. A...In this paper, we study the higher dimensional nonlinear Rossby waves under the generalized beta effect.Using methods of the multiple scales and weak nonlinear perturbation expansions [Q. S. Liu, et al., Phys. Lett. A383(2019) 514], we derive a new(2 + 1)-dimensional generalized Boussinesq equation from the barotropic potential vorticity equation. Based on bifurcation theory of planar dynamical systems and the qualitative theory of ordinary differential equations, the dynamical analysis and exact traveling wave solutions of the new generalized Boussinesq equation are obtained. Moreover, we provide the numerical simulations of these exact solutions under some conditions of all parameters. The numerical results show that these traveling wave solutions are all the Rossby solitary waves.展开更多
Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally's analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution...Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally's analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.展开更多
Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq eq...Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations, Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations, The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.展开更多
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model i...Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.展开更多
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50679010)
文摘Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical wave model is formulated. The model＇s linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ ≌ 1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulat- ed and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numer- ically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grants No.51009018 and 51079024)the National Marine Environment Monitoring Center,State Oceanic Administration,P.R.China(Grant No.210206)
文摘To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.11202130)the National Science Foundation of Shanghai Municipality(Grant No.11ZR1418200)the Doctoral Program Foundation of Higher Education(Grant No.20060248046)
文摘The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact the southeast coast of China if tsunamis occur in these areas. In this paper, the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq model is used to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and runnp in a domain with complex geometrical boundaries. The temporary varying bottom boundary condition is adopted to describe the initial tsunami waves motivated by the submarine faults. The Indian Ocean tsunami is simulated by the numerical model as a validation case. The time series of water elevation and runup on the beach are compared with the measured data from field survey. The agreements indicate that the Boussinesq model can be used to simulate tsunamis and predict the waveform and runup. Then, the hypothetical tsunamis in the Okinawa Trench and the Manila Trench are simulated by the numerical model. The arrival time and maximum wave height near coastal cities are predicted by the model. It turns out that the leading depression N-wave occurs when the tsunami propagates in the continental shelf from the Okinawa Trench. The scenarios of the tsunami in the Manila Trench demonstrate significant effects on the coastal area around the South China Sea.
文摘In this paper, we study the long time behavior of solution to the initial boundary value problem for a class of Kirchhoff-Boussinesq model flow . We first prove the wellness of the solutions. Then we establish the existence of global attractor.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 40676053)the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China (863 Program, Grant No. 2006AA09A107)+1 种基金the Municipal Commission of Science and Technology of Shanghai (Grant No. 07DZ22027)the fund in State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering,Shanghai Jiao Tong University (Grant Nos. GKZD010012,GP010818)
文摘A new type Boussinesq model is proposed and applied for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth and over a submerged bar with current present or absent,respectively.Firstly,for the propagation of monochromatic incident wave with current absent,the Boussinesq model is tested in its complete form,and in a form without the introduction of utility velocity variables.It is validated that the introduction of utility velocity variables can improve the characteristics of velocity field,dispersion and nonlinearity.Both versions of the Boussinesq models are of higher accuracy than the fully-nonlinear fourth-order model,which is one of the best forms among the existing traditional Boussinesq models that do not incorporate breaking mechanism in one dimension.Secondly,the Boussinesq model in its complete form is applied to simulating the propagation of bichromatic incident waves with current present or absent,respectively,and the modeled results are compared to the analytical ones or the experimental ones.The modeled results are reasonable in the case of inputting bichromatic incident waves with the strong opposing current present.
文摘The conventional Boussinesq model is extended to the third order in dispersion and nonlinearity. The new equations are shown to possess better linear dispersion characteristics. For the evolution of periodic waves over a constant depth, the computed wave envelops are spatially aperiodic and skew. The model is then applied to the study of wave focusing by a topographical lens and the results are compared with Whalin′s (1971) experimental data as well as some previous results from the conventional Boussinesq model. Encouragingly, improved agreement with Whalin′s experimental data is found. [WT5”HZ]
基金The National Key Research and Development Program under contract No.2019YFC1407700the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51779022, 52071057 and 51809053。
文摘This study presents an efficient Boussinesq-type wave model accelerated by a single Graphics Processing Unit(GPU).The model uses the hybrid finite volume and finite difference method to solve weakly dispersive and nonlinear Boussinesq equations in the horizontal plane,enabling the model to have the shock-capturing ability to deal with breaking waves and moving shoreline properly.The code is written in CUDA C.To achieve better performance,the model uses cyclic reduction technique to solve massive tridiagonal linear systems and overlapped tiling/shared memory to reduce global memory access and enhance data reuse.Four numerical tests are conducted to validate the GPU implementation.The performance of the GPU model is evaluated by running a series of numerical simulations on two GPU platforms with different hardware configurations.Compared with the CPU version,the maximum speedup ratios for single-precision and double-precision calculations are 55.56 and 32.57,respectively.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant Nos.11562014,11762011,11671101,71471020,51839002the Natural Science Foundation of Inner Mongolia under Grant No.2017MS0108+4 种基金Hunan Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.2016JJ2061the Scientific Research Fund of Hunan Provincial Education Department under Grant No.18A325the Construct Program of the Key Discipline in Hunan Province under Grant No.201176the Aid Program for Science and Technology Innovative Research Team in Higher Educational Instituions of Hunan Province under Grant No.2014207Hunan Provincial Key Laboratory of Mathematical Modeling and Analysis in Engineering of Changsha University of Science and Technology under Grant No.018MMAEZD191
文摘In this paper, we study the higher dimensional nonlinear Rossby waves under the generalized beta effect.Using methods of the multiple scales and weak nonlinear perturbation expansions [Q. S. Liu, et al., Phys. Lett. A383(2019) 514], we derive a new(2 + 1)-dimensional generalized Boussinesq equation from the barotropic potential vorticity equation. Based on bifurcation theory of planar dynamical systems and the qualitative theory of ordinary differential equations, the dynamical analysis and exact traveling wave solutions of the new generalized Boussinesq equation are obtained. Moreover, we provide the numerical simulations of these exact solutions under some conditions of all parameters. The numerical results show that these traveling wave solutions are all the Rossby solitary waves.
文摘Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally's analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.
基金The project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.59979002 and No 59839330)
文摘Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations, Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations, The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.
基金Supported by the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars (No 40425015)the Knowledge Innovation Programs of the Chinese Academy of Sciences (Nos KZCX1-YW-12 and KZCX2-YW-201)
文摘Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.
