Research on Current Situation and Legal Regulation of Cosmetics Live Streaming E-commerce in China

Analyze the compatibility between cosmetics and live streaming e-commerce from its own nature,marketing means and supply chain characteristics.According to the prominent problems,sort out the relationship between all parties in the cosmetics live e-commerce industry chain.Combined with the latest regulatory policies of live streaming e-commerce and cosmetics,the responsibilities of different subjects in cosmetics live streaming e-commerce are summarized,and relevant suggestions and countermeasures are put forward for the standardization and development of live streaming e-commerce.Cosmetics brand owners are the first responsible persons for product quality.Anchors,as a mixed identity between intermediary,advertising spokesperson and operator,should bear stricter joint and several liability when recommending products related to consumers’health.If anchors fail to clearly identify themselves in the recommendation process,thus causing consumers to mistake them for the operator of the cosmetics,they should assume the obligations of the operator.

Research Progress on Application of Borneol As Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol, as a traditional natural permeation enhancer, has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. In this review, the mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described. The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced. The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized, and its effects on skin-spot treatment, acne skin care, eczema skin care, skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced. Finally, the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward, and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given.

A Review of 2023 Supervision Updates of Cosmetics in China

In 2023,multiple supporting documents of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics and regulatory requirements for toothpaste were successively introduced.This article provides a detailed introduction to the updates of domestic cosmetics regulations in China in 2023,and sorts out the details of the 2023 unqualified cosmetics notification and flight inspection issued by regulatory authorities,analyzes the reasons,and helps cosmetics companies further understand regulatory requirements,implement the main responsibility of cosmetics quality and safety,and respond to changes in cosmetics regulatory policies,so as to avoid being notified of unqualified products,economic and reputation losses as much as possible.

Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee

On May 6th,2024,National Medical Products Administration issued Announcement on the Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee(No.53 of 2024).According to the announcement,National Medical Products Administration is about to establish Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee,aiming at furthering implementing Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics,and promoting the formulation and revision of the cosmetics standard(including toothpaste).

Study on the Efficacy Claim and Evaluation Method of Lip Cosmetics

To study the efficacy of lip moisturizing cosmetics and explore the methods for evaluating their efficacy.The claimed efficacy and number of claimed efficacy of 44 lip moisturizing cosmetics were investigated,and a combination of in vitro and human testing was used to evaluate the efficacy of the lip moisturizing cosmetics.The efficacy claims of lip cosmetics mainly included 4 categories of moisturizing,repairing,soothing and anti-wrinkle,with 79.55%of the products claiming 3~4 categories of efficacy.In the in vitro test,the cell morphology of the skin damage model improved and the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors decreased significantly.In the human trial,the water content,skin softness and brightness L value of the cuticle of the lips increased significantly in 31 subjects,and the transepidermal water loss,redness a value,and the area and volume of lip wrinkles decreased significantly;the dryness of the lip skin and the uniformity of the skin texture improved significantly.The dryness of lip skin and the uniformity of skin texture were significantly improved.The results show that the moisture content of the stratum corneum can be used to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of lip products.The transepidermal water loss,skin color,skin softness and expert assessment can be used to evaluate the repairing efficacy.The observation of cell morphology of skin damage models and the detection of pro-inflammatory factor content can be used to evaluate the soothing efficacy.The area and volume of lip wrinkles can be used to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of products.

The Potential Impact of Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022

This article described the current regulatory requirements of cosmetics in the United States,listed the major changes and adjustments of the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022,such as the mandatory system of adverse event reporting and the registration of voluntary changes to mandatory,and analyzed the new regulatory requirements in depth,and put forward some suggestions for enterprises to cope with the strategy,so as to help enterprises adapt to the new policy more smoothly when exporting cosmetics.

Research Progress on the Application of β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotides in Cosmetics

Recent studies have found that nicotinamide mononucleotide(nicotinamide mononucleotide,NMN)also has certain anti-aging,photoprotection,anti-oxidation,and soothing to the skin,while affects the level of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide(nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide,NAD+)to improve aging-related diseases.These skincare features have laid the foundation for its application in cosmetics.NMN has been used in cosmetics and sold on the market in foreign countries,but there have been debates about its safety.It is currently as a new raw material for cosmetics in China,and its safety is also under monitoring.This paper systematically reviewed the basic properties,skin care functions and the safety of its application in cosmetics,aiming to provide theoretical reference for the development and application of NMN.

Research of Several Evaluation Methods of Soothing Efficacy in Cosmetics

In order to search an appropriate evaluation method for the soothing effect of cosmetics,the LPS-induced macrophage model,SDS-stimulated zebrafish embryos model and the clinical assessment were used.The results showed that the concentration of NO and IL-6 was significantly reduced in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells when applied to two essences.The inhibition rate of NO-release was 85.87%and 84.57%,while IL-6 was 44.18%and 38.76%,respectively.Furthermore,the spontaneous rotating of zebrafish embryos was significantly decreased to 51.85%and 76.54%in SDS-stimulated zebrafish embryos model.In the 28 days of clinical assessment,the concentration of hydration was significantly increased to 55.56%and 39.61%,while the erythrodesis was significantly decreased to 4.75%and 6.68%.This indicates that the three evaluation methods of soothing efficacy in this research were effective,and can be used in the evaluation of cosmetics.

Research Progress on Application of Borneol as Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol,as a traditional natural permeation enhancer,has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients.The mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described.The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced.The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized,and its effects on skin-spot treatment,acne skin care,eczema skin care,skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced.Finally,the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward,and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given。

Determination of Oleuropein in Cosmetics by Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Triple Quadrupole Tandem Mass Spectrometry

An ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole tandem mass spectrometry(UPLC-MS/MS)was established to quickly and accurately determine the content of oleuropein in cosmetics.The samples were extracted with methanol-aqueous solution,and the mobile phase with methanol-formic acid solution(0.1 mol/L)=40∶60 was separated by Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18(2.1 mm×50 mm×1.8μm-Micron)column temperature 30℃,flow rate 0.3 mL/min.The MS end was detected by electrospray negative mode ionization(ESI-)and multiple reaction monitoring(MRM)mode.The results show a good linear relationship in the range of 0.002~5 mg/L,with a correlation coefficient R2 of 0.999,5.Method recovery range from 84.2%~107.6%and the relative standard deviation RSD is 5.8%.The detection time is 5 min,the detection limit is 0.000,6 mg/L,and the limit of quantification is 0.002 mg/L.This method has the advantages of convenient operation,low quantification limit,high precision and good repeatability,and is suitable for measuring the content of oleuropein in many kinds of cosmetics.

Sustainable Marketing at the Heart of Cosmetics Companies:Myth or Reality?

Cosmetic companies are trying to include more sustainability in their strategies. But, showing commitment is always a challenge for them. This work consists in showing the degree of commitment of cosmetic companies in their marketing practices. The qualitative study carried out aims to determine the level of their commitment in terms of sustainability, based on 10 websites of “sustainable” cosmetics companies that sell their products online, and on defining sustainability criteria for each variable of the marketing mix. The results indicate that the majority of the companies analyzed are aware of the importance of sustainability and have taken measures to have a positive impact on the economy, society and the environment. The companies have made considerable efforts in “product” and “communication” strategies, but additional improvements can be envisaged for “price” and “distribution” strategies.

Customized Cosmetics: A Concept or the Future?

On April 10,2023,the Shanghai Municipal Medical Products Administration issued a notice on the public consultation of the“Shanghai Pudong New Area General Cosmetics On-site Personalized Service Review Rules(for trial implementation)”(draft for comment),marking the public call for comments from April 3 to May 2,2023.

Shanghai mapped out the guidance to“Cosmetics Samples”for the first time

On April 7th,2023,the supervisory department of Xuhui district published the first Guidance to“Cosmetics Samples”for the First Time(Trial).It unified the management requirement regarding cosmetics samples,guided managers to develop responsibility awareness and prevent and advert risks beforehand.Besides,it identified the definition of“cosmetics samples”.

An Exploration of Translation Strategies of Global Cosmetics Brands Based on Reception Aesthetics

With the advancement of economic globalization,the flow of commodities from one country to another has become closer and closer.Especially in recent years,the logistics industry has been developing rapidly,overseas purchasing agents and cross-border online shopping have been enormously prevailing,and accordingly more and more British and American cosmetics expect to occupy a place in the huge market of China.Therefore,it is particularly important to explore the Chinese translation strategies for British and American cosmetic brands.Based on the theory of reception aesthetics,this thesis takes the corpus Estee Lauder,La mer,and other famous cosmetics brands.The thesis proposes several methods for translating cosmetic brands:transliteration for proper names like person or geography names;free translation to recreate brand aesthetics;creative translation for new brands;and adapted translation for divergence in language habits.Therefore,this thesis is of theoretical and practical significance as far as the field of cosmetics is concerned.

Application of in Vitro Alternative Tests Based on AOP in Skin Sensitization Evaluation of Cosmetics

To evaluate and discuss two novels in vitro alternative tests which based on the 2nd and 4th event of the AOP in skin sensitization and their application in skin sensitization evaluation of cosmetics in vitro.The DSens(DSens method)and Jurkat(TCPA method)were used as the test models and 9 of reference chemicals and 12 kinds of cosmetic products were used to confirm and assess the application capability in skin sensitization.The results showed that the DSens method was more sensitive to the reference chemicals compare to the TCPA method.All the results of cosmetic products showed a high consistency between these two assays and h-CLAT or in vivo assay.As the new screening method for skin sensitization evaluation of cosmetics,the in vitro alternative tests based on AOP have certain effectiveness.The reasonable combination strategy can bring a bright future for the development and application of animal alternative test in China.

A Brief Discussion of the New Trend of Cosmetics Regulations Based on the Imported Cosmetics Registration Data

This article is based on data analysis from 2012 to 2019 of imported non-special-use cosmetics registration quantity,special-use cosmetics registration quantity,children's cosmetics registration quantity,etc.And also based on the Regulation on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics(Draft),and so on.This article will briefly discuss the influence of the new trend of Chinese cosmetics regulations on the development of the cosmetics industry.According to data analysis,the pre-market approval process for cosmetics is closely related to the annual increase in the new product registrations quantity.Since March 1st,2017,the reform of the imported non-special-use cosmetics registration was first initiated in Pudong New Area in Shanghai,the imported cosmetics registration quantity has increased significantly,so as the non-special-use children’s registration.Under the background of no obvious change in the pre-marketing approval process of imported special-use cosmetics,there is no significant increase in the quantity of annual registration.Among the nine categories of special-use cosmetics,sunscreen and whitening cosmetics accounted for the highest proportion,followed by hair dyeing.For the hair-growing,breast beauty,fitness categories of special-use cosmetics,the registration quantity each year was very low due to the low approval rate,long approval process and high testing costs,etc.According to the new trend of Chinese cosmetics regulations,the idea of cosmetics supervision and administration is changing from focusing on pre-market approval procedures to focusing on post-market surveillance.

In-Cosmetics回顾

In—Cosmetics2007化妆品原料贸易展示会于2007年4月17日。2007年4月19日在巴黎召开。据组织者称，展会创下了参展商数量新记录。展会上，供应商展示了一系列新产品。

Effects of cosmetics containing purified honeybee(Apis mellifera L.) venom on acne vulgaris

Acne vulgaris is a chronic dermatologic problem with multiple factors involved in its pathogenesis. Alternative solutions to acne treatment were instigated by antibiotic resistance despite of its extensive use. Purified bee venom （PBV） has been proposed as a promising candidate for that purpose. The present study was designed to confirm the antibacterial effect of PBV and access the efficacy of cosmetics containing PBV in subjects with acne vulgaris. METHODS： The skin bacterium Propionibacterium acnes was incubated with PBV at various concentrations and bacterial growth was evaluated using the colony forming unit （CFU） assay. The mechanism of PBV employed in killing P. acnes was examined by scanning electron microscopy （SEM） and transmission electron microscopy （TEM）. In addition, a total of 12 subjects were randomized in a double-blind, controlled trial to receive either cosmetics containing PBV or cosmetics without PBV for two weeks. Evaluations included lesion counts and skin microorganism. RESULTS： PBV exhibited antimicrobial activity in a concentration-dependent manner, reducing the number of P. acnes CFU by approximately 6 logs at a concentration of 0.5 mg. When PBV concentration was higher than 1.0 mg, no P. acnes colonies were spotted on an agar. TEM and SEM of untreated P. acnes illustrated the normal pleomorphic structure, whereas the PBV- treated bacterium lost the integrity of surface architecture. Significant difference （P=0.027） in the grading levels based on numbers of lesion counts for inflammatory and noninflammatory was observed in favour of the PBV group compared with the control group. In terms of average decrement of skin microorganism, subjects receiving cosmetics containing PBV experienced a significant 57.5% decrease of adenosine triphosphate levels, whereas participants receiving cosmetics without PBV experienced a nonsignificant decrease of 4.7%. CONCLUSION： These results show that the in vitro actions of antimicrobial activity of PBV were translated in vivo. Cosmetics containing PBV provided a certain degree of efficacy in terms of lesion counts and skin microorganism concentration compared with cosmetics without PBV in subjects with acne vulgaris. PBV may be a good candidate compound for developing therapeutic drua for the treatment of acne vulaaris.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023,at around a 7%annual growth rate.The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade.Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021.It is expected to be the world’s number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050,with a size of approximately US$450 billion.The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources.As a result,the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products.The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics,including topical care products,fragrances,moisturizers,UV protective,and anti-wrinkle products.In addition,the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health,and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.