Evaluation of Skin Elasticising Topical Formulations by a Torsiometric Test

Background/Purpose: In the frame of a development of a formulation to be used in perineal massage in pregnant women, a screening program was built up among compositions with elasticising properties. Methods: This was an open-label, controlled study in 21 volunteers. The participants applied once, on the volar surface of both forearms, five formulations with elasticising properties (test products 1 to 5) and a reference standard (test product 6). The formulations were applied on three sites on each forearm that were randomly assigned. Skin elasticising parameters were evaluated using the Dermal Torque Meter, at baseline and 30 minutes after application. Results: Among the test products, only test product 2 significantly increased skin elasticity compared with the baseline value, with a trend toward superiority?versus the reference standard (+24% vs.?+13%, respectively). There was a significant increase in elastic recovery of 23% with test product 2, compared with a significant increase of 13% with the reference standard. Conclusion: Test product 2, comprising a thiolated compound and a mixture of esters of fatty acids, had the greatest elasticising effect. Compared with the other tested formulations, product 2 led to a greater increase in extensibility and faster elastic recovery of the skin on the volar surface of the forearm.

Carbocysteine: A New Way for Stretch Marks Treatment

Background/Purpose: Although stretch marks (or striae) do not represent a medical problem, they are considered as the cause of psychological distress for women of any age that need to be treated. There are many cosmetic products or procedures claiming to improve the appearance of striae, but most of them are able to affect only striae appearance rather than physical characteristics or, even worse, they are provided with untoward effects. Our aim was to find a more efficacious and safe alternative to the existing tools. Methods: A randomized, blind observer study was conducted on 33 women to test the efficacy and safety of P-3059, a new product containing carboxymethylcysteine, Vitamin E and sweet almond oil. P-3059 was applied twice daily for 8 weeks and it was tested intra-subject in a split-body design versus an untreated area (negative control), comparing two symmetric areas with striae selected on the body/legs of each subject. The main study endpoint was the visual evaluation of striae, by means of the validated POSAS scale (consisting of two parts, OSAS and PSAS), at the end of treatment in comparison with baseline. Results: The comparison of the individual parameters of OSAS, showed significantly improved mean values for striae thickness, relief and pliability at the end of treatment (p < 0.05). The PSAS evaluation showed a statistically significant benefit in the improvement in thickness of the striae towards that of normal skin (p < 0.044). Conclusion: The new product based on carboxymethylcysteine leads to an improvement in the appearance and in the physical characteristics of striae, reducing their thickness and improving relief and pliability, as well as subjects satisfaction.

TEM Assessments of the Restructuring Effects of an Emollient Cream on the <i>stratum corneum</i>

The structure of the stratum corneum contributes to the barrier function of the epidermis. Skin barrier recovery is of utmost importance after epidermal tissue damage. The aim of this study was to describe, at the cellular level, the structural effects resulting from topical application of a hand-cream onto normal skin and to investigate the potential repair mechanisms induced by the emollient on altered tissue. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to compare the architectures of the horny layers from: 1) ex-vivo cultured human skin;2) skin treated by topical application of a hand-cream emulsion;3) explants exposed to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS);4) SLS-treated explants that underwent subsequent topical application of the emollient emulsion. These TEM assessments allowed identifying the structural changes occurring in the stratum corneum of skin explants exposed to SLS and/or treated with an emollient. Results strongly suggest that both, SLS-induced damage and emollient-driven repair process take place in the stratum corneum, at the cellular level. One can envisage that the observed restructuring effects after topical application of the skin-care product are likely to ameliorate or restore the barrier function of the stratum corneum. In this, the properties of the emollient go beyond the cosmetic feel.

Topical Application of Tenshino-Softgel^TMReduces Epidermal Nerve Fiber Density in a Chronic Dry Skin Model Mouse

Background: Dry skin induces antihistamine-resistant itch, as well as epidermal hyperinnervation, which is partly responsible for peripheral itch sensitization. In acute dry skin, topical application of emollients prevents the penetration of nerve fibers into the epidermis. However, the effects of emollients on itch and epidermal hyperinnervation in individuals with chronic dry skin are poorly understood. Objective: This study examined the effects of Tenshino-softgelTM (TSG) on itch-related behavior, epidermal hyperinnervation and skin barrier function in a chronic dry skin model mouse. Methods: Chronic dry skin was induced by application of acetone/ether (1:1) mixture and water (AEW) to the rostral parts of the back of hairless mice twice daily for six consecutive days. As treatment, TSG or, as control, Vaseline (V) was applied to the same areas twice daily. Skin barrier function was evaluated by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) before each treatment. Scratching behavior was recorded and analyzed using a SCLABA&reg-real system, and skin samples were collected for immunohistochemical assays. Results: TEWL tended to be lower and scratching bouts fewer in AEW + TSG- than in AEW-treated mice. The numbers of protein gene product 9.5-immunoreactive fibers and substance P-immunoreactive fibers were each significantly lower in the epidermis of AEW + TSG- than of AEW-treated mice, but the expression of nerve growth factor in epidermis was similar in the three groups. Semaphorin 3A expression was significantly higher in the epidermis of AEW + TSG- than of AEW- and AEW + V-treated mice. Conclusion: Topical application of TSG may attenuate itch induced by chronic dry skin through a mechanism involving the inhibition of epidermal hyperinnervation.