Tokyo,Japan–FaW TOKYO(FASHION WORLD TOKYO),the renowned international fashion trade show,is gearing up for its spring edition,promising an exciting showcase of global fashion trends,technology innovations,and traditi...Tokyo,Japan–FaW TOKYO(FASHION WORLD TOKYO),the renowned international fashion trade show,is gearing up for its spring edition,promising an exciting showcase of global fashion trends,technology innovations,and traditional craftsmanship.From April 17-19,Tokyo Big Sight in Japan gathers a diverse array of international exhibitors and highlighting the best of Japanese fashion excellence.展开更多
Leggings have been a staple in the fashion industry for decades,consistently remaining one of the most popular and versatile items of clothing.They have achieved viral status and continue to be a highly sought-after f...Leggings have been a staple in the fashion industry for decades,consistently remaining one of the most popular and versatile items of clothing.They have achieved viral status and continue to be a highly sought-after fashion item,transcending age and cultural barriers.The body-hugging style of leggings has remained in vogue,attracting young people of all ages and backgrounds.With their enduring popularity,it’s likely that leggings will remain a fashion staple for years to come.展开更多
The Sports-Inspired Clothing market represents a dynamic segment within the fashion industry,offering apparel and accessories influenced by the aesthetics,functionality,and culture of sports and athleticism.Sports-ins...The Sports-Inspired Clothing market represents a dynamic segment within the fashion industry,offering apparel and accessories influenced by the aesthetics,functionality,and culture of sports and athleticism.Sports-inspired clothing blends performance features with fashion-forward designs,catering to consumers seeking comfortable,stylish,and versatile attire suitable for both active pursuits and everyday wear.With the increasing popularity of athleisure and the intersection of sports and fashion,the Sports-Inspired Clothing market experiences continuous growth and innovation to meet the diverse needs and preferences of consumers worldwide.The global sports inspired clothing market is forecast to expand at a CAGR of 5.3%and thereby increase from a value of US$315.03 Bn in 2023,to US$452.2 Bn by the end of 2030 as per report published by Persistence Market Research.展开更多
Pattern making plays a key role in the aspect of fashion design and garment production, as it serves as the transformative process that turns a simple drawing into a consistent accumulation of garments. The process of...Pattern making plays a key role in the aspect of fashion design and garment production, as it serves as the transformative process that turns a simple drawing into a consistent accumulation of garments. The process of creating conventional or manual patterns requires a significant amount of time and a specialized skill set in various areas such as grading, marker planning, and fabric utilization. This study examines the potential of 3D technology and virtual fashion designing software in optimizing the efficiency and cost-effectiveness of pattern production processes. The proposed methodology is characterized by a higher level of comprehensiveness and reliability, resulting in time efficiency and providing a diverse range of design options. The user is not expected to possess comprehensive knowledge of traditional pattern creation procedures prior to engaging in the task. The software offers a range of capabilities including draping, 3D-to-2D and 2D-to-3D unfolding, fabric drivability analysis, ease allowance calculation, add-fullness manipulation, style development, grading, and virtual garment try-on. The strategy will cause a shift in the viewpoints and methodologies of business professionals when it comes to the use of 3D fashion design software. Upon recognizing the potential time, financial, and resource-saving benefits associated with the integration of 3D technology into their design development process, individuals will be motivated to select for its utilization over conventional pattern making methods. Individuals will possess the capacity to transfer their cognitive processes and engage in introspection regarding their professional endeavors and current activities through the utilization of 3D virtual pattern-making and fashion design technologies. To enhance the efficacy and ecological sustainability of designs, designers have the potential to integrate 3D technology with virtual fashion software, thereby compliant advantages for both commercial enterprises and the environment.展开更多
In class society,fashion is identified as a sign of class position and social status,while in modern democratic society fashion’s political connotation and significance have greatly changed and is mainly displayed fr...In class society,fashion is identified as a sign of class position and social status,while in modern democratic society fashion’s political connotation and significance have greatly changed and is mainly displayed from the following three aspects:1)as a way of social protest from vulnerable social groups by being symbol of being an independent and free subject.However,the resistance or protest represented by fashion is no more than something ritual.2)as a way of identity and subjectivity construction,both individual and national;3)as embodiment of fashion leadership and a way of incorporation.Generally to say,fashion has played an important role in every aspect above.However,there is still a tension between them and we must manage carefully to keep a balance.展开更多
"Design is defined as to plan,conceive,and set up a program,also including to conceive,drawing and modeling."The process of dress design is"to conceive and make up the effective drawings and plane graph..."Design is defined as to plan,conceive,and set up a program,also including to conceive,drawing and modeling."The process of dress design is"to conceive and make up the effective drawings and plane graph based on the demands of the desig nees,then to produce according to the design drawings,so as to complete the whole process of design'.Of course,the dress de sign is actually related with design.However,in the field of dress design,the most important factor that affects design is"art".From the history of dress,it's easy to find the trace of trend of art.展开更多
The goal of this research is to describe and analyze Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period. Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period plays a special role in fashion history of China and Shanghai history. In the...The goal of this research is to describe and analyze Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period. Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period plays a special role in fashion history of China and Shanghai history. In the paper, three aspects including the fashion centre of China as well as Far East, men’s fashion and women’s fashion in Shanghai are discussed. The style, textiles, color, decoration and combination of clothing are described. Many costumes from the Clothing Museum at Donghua University and private collections as well as some historical writings, photographs and publications are elucidated and corroborated to give a more detailed description about Shanghai’s fashion during that period.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Shanghai had always been the fashion center in China even Far East during Republic Period. Modeng was the main reflection of Shanghai fashion. Secondly, the traditional clothing exerted less influence and was less widely used, some kinds and combinations were out of fashion gradually. The fashion was described to be highly stylized, exquisite and concise. Thirdly, the influence of Western Style was further greater. The fashion in Shanghai was almost synchronous with fashion of Paris. Some western clothing was directly used in daily life and the elements of Western Style had an increasingly wide utilization. Fourthly, the New Chinese Style whose representatives were Qipao and Zhongshan Zhuang appeared and popularized in Shanghai. The fashion of Qipao changed frequently. Finally, the fashion in Shanghai called Shanghai Style could be summarized fashionable, exquisite, rapidly changeable, which is harmonious of both ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign.展开更多
Fashion color forecasting is one of the most important factors for fashion marketing and manufacturing. Several models have been applied by previous researchers to conduct fashion color forecasting. However, few convi...Fashion color forecasting is one of the most important factors for fashion marketing and manufacturing. Several models have been applied by previous researchers to conduct fashion color forecasting. However, few convincing forecasting systems have been established. A prediction model for fashion color forecasting was established by applying an improved back propagation neural network (BPNN) model in this paper. Successive six-year fashion color palettes, released by INTERCOLOR, were used as learning information for the neural network to develop a reliable prediction model. Colors in the palettes were quantified by PANTONE color system. Additionally, performance of the established model was compared with other GM(1, 1) models. Results show that the improved BPNN model is suitable to predict future fashion color trend.展开更多
Objective:The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of gastric cancer family history in the gastric cancer (GC) patients. Methods: Gastric cancer family histories within second degree relatives and clinico...Objective:The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of gastric cancer family history in the gastric cancer (GC) patients. Methods: Gastric cancer family histories within second degree relatives and clinicopathological features were obtained for 497 patients. Results:Of the 497 probands,235 probands were incorporated into familial gastric cancer (FGC) group (there were at least two GC members in the family); 262 probands were included in the non-FGC group (relatives only affected with non-GCs). Of 614 tumors in relatives,GC was the most frequent,followed by lung cancer,esophageal cancer,hepatocellular cancer,colorectal cancer,urogenital cancer,breast cancer,and pancreatic cancer. Most affected members aggregated within first-degree relatives. The ratio of males to females in affected first-degree relatives was usually higher in male probands. Paternal history of GC was a strong risk for GC in males,while risk of GC by maternal history of GCs was increased in females. Difference in tumor histological types between the two groups was derived from an excess of diffuse GC in non-FGC male probands. The lower site was the most frequent tumor location in all subgroups. Conclusion:Distribution of associated non-GCs in a family history of GC may vary with geographic areas. GC may have different genetic and/or environmental etiology in different families,and a certain subtype may be inherited in a male-influenced fashion.展开更多
Generation X (Xers) is a group of people born between 1961-1981. They grew up in an era of technology, in which they have more chances to access the internet for information than the previous generation (Baby boomers)...Generation X (Xers) is a group of people born between 1961-1981. They grew up in an era of technology, in which they have more chances to access the internet for information than the previous generation (Baby boomers). In this study, the reasons of setting up a fashion web site and its barriers are investigated. Besides, the behavior and attitude of Xers on the internet fashion marketing and the impact of fashion web site (FWS) on Xers was examined. As the internet fashion marketing in Hong Kong is not a full fiedged marketing tool to Xers in the mean time, recommendations about how to design an attractive FWS to Xers have been given.展开更多
Two crosslinkable poly(p-phenyleneethynylene)s(PPEs): poly[2,5-di(2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)-1,4-phenylenecthynylene] with end-capped vinyl(PPE1) and poly[2,5-di(allyloxy)-1,4-phenyleneethynylene-2,5-di(2'-ethyl...Two crosslinkable poly(p-phenyleneethynylene)s(PPEs): poly[2,5-di(2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)-1,4-phenylenecthynylene] with end-capped vinyl(PPE1) and poly[2,5-di(allyloxy)-1,4-phenyleneethynylene-2,5-di(2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)-1,4-phenyleneethynylene](PPE2) were synthesized. Via the thermal addition reactions of vinyl end groups of PPE1 and allyloxy side groups of PPE2, crosslinked polymers C-PPE1 and C-PPE2 were obtained, respectively. The two polymers were characterized by wide-angle X-ray diffraction(WXRD), ultraviolet-visible(UV-Vis) absorption, and photoluminescence(PL). The results indicate that in the solid state, the polymer chains of PPE1 were packed with a low degree of crystallinity because of the sterically hindered(2'-ethyl-hexyl)oxy branched side chains, but, because of the introduction of allyloxy side chains, the polymer chains of PPE2 were packed in an order fashion with a high degree of crystallinity. Because of the high crosslinking density in C-PPE2, the formation of aggregates and excimer was hampered by the formed crosslinking network more effectively in C-PPE2 film than in C-PPE1 film.展开更多
张爱玲是中国文学史上的传奇人物,以其独特华丽的文学造诣为读者所熟知。同时她也是一位双语作家兼翻译大家,惯于翻译自己创作的文学作品。以接受理论为指导,对张爱玲的英语散文Chinese Life and Fashions及其自译本《更衣记》进行详细...张爱玲是中国文学史上的传奇人物,以其独特华丽的文学造诣为读者所熟知。同时她也是一位双语作家兼翻译大家,惯于翻译自己创作的文学作品。以接受理论为指导,对张爱玲的英语散文Chinese Life and Fashions及其自译本《更衣记》进行详细的比较研究,凸显译者在翻译活动中的核心地位。展开更多
Background:Nests are composed of and built with different materials that are handled in specific ways. These mate?rials must initially have been used de novo before commonly being incorporated into nests. Plastic and ...Background:Nests are composed of and built with different materials that are handled in specific ways. These mate?rials must initially have been used de novo before commonly being incorporated into nests. Plastic and plastic bags were invented in the 1950s, and they are widely distributed in the environment. Birds started picking up plastic from plastic used to cover farm produce such as silage, potatoes, beets and other crops for use in their nests in the 1960s.Methods:I recorded the frequency of such plastic use by the Blackbird(Turdus merula) in nests in Denmark, starting in 1966, followed by a peak in use in the 1970s and a subsequent decline.Results:Nests with plastic were initially built earlier in the season than those without plastic, indicating an associa?tion between innovation and early reproduction. Plastic use was subsequently selected against because nests with plastic suffered from higher rates of predation than nests without plastic, probably because nests with plastic were easier to locate. However, the elevated risk of nest predation only applied to outdoor nests, but not to nests inside buildings, probably because visually searching nest predators such as corvids do not enter buildings.Conclusions:These findings show that the dynamics of nest material use depend on the benefits of innovation and the fitness costs of nest predation.展开更多
In the process of clothing image researching,how to segment the clothing quickly and accurately and retain the clothing style details as much as possible is the basis of subsequent image analysis.Spectral clustering c...In the process of clothing image researching,how to segment the clothing quickly and accurately and retain the clothing style details as much as possible is the basis of subsequent image analysis.Spectral clustering clothing image segmentation algorithm is a common method in the process of clothing image extraction.However,the traditional model requires high computing power and is easily affected by the initial center of clustering.It often falls into local optimization.Aiming at the above two points,an improved spectral clustering clothing image segmentation algorithm is proposed in this paper.The Nystrom approximation strategy is introduced into the spectral mapping process to reduce the computational complexity.In the clustering stage,this algorithm uses the global optimization advantage of the particle swarm optimization algorithm and selects the sparrow search algorithm to search the optimal initial clustering point,to effectively avoid the occurrence of local optimization.In the end,the effectiveness of this algorithm is verified on clothing images in each environment.展开更多
英语中的许多成语都有它的特殊来历及意义,如果我们不对其加以了解,在翻译的时候就很容易望文生义,贻笑大方。请看下面二例:1.The rooms are all shipshape for our guests.2.When my ship comes home,we’ll buy that house by the sea...英语中的许多成语都有它的特殊来历及意义,如果我们不对其加以了解,在翻译的时候就很容易望文生义,贻笑大方。请看下面二例:1.The rooms are all shipshape for our guests.2.When my ship comes home,we’ll buy that house by the sea.在例1中,all shipshape 源于 all shipshape and Bristol fashion,意为“为船出港作好充分准备”。Bristol 为英国港口。展开更多
文摘Tokyo,Japan–FaW TOKYO(FASHION WORLD TOKYO),the renowned international fashion trade show,is gearing up for its spring edition,promising an exciting showcase of global fashion trends,technology innovations,and traditional craftsmanship.From April 17-19,Tokyo Big Sight in Japan gathers a diverse array of international exhibitors and highlighting the best of Japanese fashion excellence.
文摘Leggings have been a staple in the fashion industry for decades,consistently remaining one of the most popular and versatile items of clothing.They have achieved viral status and continue to be a highly sought-after fashion item,transcending age and cultural barriers.The body-hugging style of leggings has remained in vogue,attracting young people of all ages and backgrounds.With their enduring popularity,it’s likely that leggings will remain a fashion staple for years to come.
文摘The Sports-Inspired Clothing market represents a dynamic segment within the fashion industry,offering apparel and accessories influenced by the aesthetics,functionality,and culture of sports and athleticism.Sports-inspired clothing blends performance features with fashion-forward designs,catering to consumers seeking comfortable,stylish,and versatile attire suitable for both active pursuits and everyday wear.With the increasing popularity of athleisure and the intersection of sports and fashion,the Sports-Inspired Clothing market experiences continuous growth and innovation to meet the diverse needs and preferences of consumers worldwide.The global sports inspired clothing market is forecast to expand at a CAGR of 5.3%and thereby increase from a value of US$315.03 Bn in 2023,to US$452.2 Bn by the end of 2030 as per report published by Persistence Market Research.
文摘Pattern making plays a key role in the aspect of fashion design and garment production, as it serves as the transformative process that turns a simple drawing into a consistent accumulation of garments. The process of creating conventional or manual patterns requires a significant amount of time and a specialized skill set in various areas such as grading, marker planning, and fabric utilization. This study examines the potential of 3D technology and virtual fashion designing software in optimizing the efficiency and cost-effectiveness of pattern production processes. The proposed methodology is characterized by a higher level of comprehensiveness and reliability, resulting in time efficiency and providing a diverse range of design options. The user is not expected to possess comprehensive knowledge of traditional pattern creation procedures prior to engaging in the task. The software offers a range of capabilities including draping, 3D-to-2D and 2D-to-3D unfolding, fabric drivability analysis, ease allowance calculation, add-fullness manipulation, style development, grading, and virtual garment try-on. The strategy will cause a shift in the viewpoints and methodologies of business professionals when it comes to the use of 3D fashion design software. Upon recognizing the potential time, financial, and resource-saving benefits associated with the integration of 3D technology into their design development process, individuals will be motivated to select for its utilization over conventional pattern making methods. Individuals will possess the capacity to transfer their cognitive processes and engage in introspection regarding their professional endeavors and current activities through the utilization of 3D virtual pattern-making and fashion design technologies. To enhance the efficacy and ecological sustainability of designs, designers have the potential to integrate 3D technology with virtual fashion software, thereby compliant advantages for both commercial enterprises and the environment.
文摘In class society,fashion is identified as a sign of class position and social status,while in modern democratic society fashion’s political connotation and significance have greatly changed and is mainly displayed from the following three aspects:1)as a way of social protest from vulnerable social groups by being symbol of being an independent and free subject.However,the resistance or protest represented by fashion is no more than something ritual.2)as a way of identity and subjectivity construction,both individual and national;3)as embodiment of fashion leadership and a way of incorporation.Generally to say,fashion has played an important role in every aspect above.However,there is still a tension between them and we must manage carefully to keep a balance.
文摘"Design is defined as to plan,conceive,and set up a program,also including to conceive,drawing and modeling."The process of dress design is"to conceive and make up the effective drawings and plane graph based on the demands of the desig nees,then to produce according to the design drawings,so as to complete the whole process of design'.Of course,the dress de sign is actually related with design.However,in the field of dress design,the most important factor that affects design is"art".From the history of dress,it's easy to find the trace of trend of art.
文摘The goal of this research is to describe and analyze Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period. Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period plays a special role in fashion history of China and Shanghai history. In the paper, three aspects including the fashion centre of China as well as Far East, men’s fashion and women’s fashion in Shanghai are discussed. The style, textiles, color, decoration and combination of clothing are described. Many costumes from the Clothing Museum at Donghua University and private collections as well as some historical writings, photographs and publications are elucidated and corroborated to give a more detailed description about Shanghai’s fashion during that period.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Shanghai had always been the fashion center in China even Far East during Republic Period. Modeng was the main reflection of Shanghai fashion. Secondly, the traditional clothing exerted less influence and was less widely used, some kinds and combinations were out of fashion gradually. The fashion was described to be highly stylized, exquisite and concise. Thirdly, the influence of Western Style was further greater. The fashion in Shanghai was almost synchronous with fashion of Paris. Some western clothing was directly used in daily life and the elements of Western Style had an increasingly wide utilization. Fourthly, the New Chinese Style whose representatives were Qipao and Zhongshan Zhuang appeared and popularized in Shanghai. The fashion of Qipao changed frequently. Finally, the fashion in Shanghai called Shanghai Style could be summarized fashionable, exquisite, rapidly changeable, which is harmonious of both ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign.
文摘Fashion color forecasting is one of the most important factors for fashion marketing and manufacturing. Several models have been applied by previous researchers to conduct fashion color forecasting. However, few convincing forecasting systems have been established. A prediction model for fashion color forecasting was established by applying an improved back propagation neural network (BPNN) model in this paper. Successive six-year fashion color palettes, released by INTERCOLOR, were used as learning information for the neural network to develop a reliable prediction model. Colors in the palettes were quantified by PANTONE color system. Additionally, performance of the established model was compared with other GM(1, 1) models. Results show that the improved BPNN model is suitable to predict future fashion color trend.
基金Supported by two grants from the Science and Technology Program of Shenyang (No.1071166-9-00 and No.1081232-1-00)
文摘Objective:The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of gastric cancer family history in the gastric cancer (GC) patients. Methods: Gastric cancer family histories within second degree relatives and clinicopathological features were obtained for 497 patients. Results:Of the 497 probands,235 probands were incorporated into familial gastric cancer (FGC) group (there were at least two GC members in the family); 262 probands were included in the non-FGC group (relatives only affected with non-GCs). Of 614 tumors in relatives,GC was the most frequent,followed by lung cancer,esophageal cancer,hepatocellular cancer,colorectal cancer,urogenital cancer,breast cancer,and pancreatic cancer. Most affected members aggregated within first-degree relatives. The ratio of males to females in affected first-degree relatives was usually higher in male probands. Paternal history of GC was a strong risk for GC in males,while risk of GC by maternal history of GCs was increased in females. Difference in tumor histological types between the two groups was derived from an excess of diffuse GC in non-FGC male probands. The lower site was the most frequent tumor location in all subgroups. Conclusion:Distribution of associated non-GCs in a family history of GC may vary with geographic areas. GC may have different genetic and/or environmental etiology in different families,and a certain subtype may be inherited in a male-influenced fashion.
文摘Generation X (Xers) is a group of people born between 1961-1981. They grew up in an era of technology, in which they have more chances to access the internet for information than the previous generation (Baby boomers). In this study, the reasons of setting up a fashion web site and its barriers are investigated. Besides, the behavior and attitude of Xers on the internet fashion marketing and the impact of fashion web site (FWS) on Xers was examined. As the internet fashion marketing in Hong Kong is not a full fiedged marketing tool to Xers in the mean time, recommendations about how to design an attractive FWS to Xers have been given.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.20771030 and 20671025)
文摘Two crosslinkable poly(p-phenyleneethynylene)s(PPEs): poly[2,5-di(2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)-1,4-phenylenecthynylene] with end-capped vinyl(PPE1) and poly[2,5-di(allyloxy)-1,4-phenyleneethynylene-2,5-di(2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)-1,4-phenyleneethynylene](PPE2) were synthesized. Via the thermal addition reactions of vinyl end groups of PPE1 and allyloxy side groups of PPE2, crosslinked polymers C-PPE1 and C-PPE2 were obtained, respectively. The two polymers were characterized by wide-angle X-ray diffraction(WXRD), ultraviolet-visible(UV-Vis) absorption, and photoluminescence(PL). The results indicate that in the solid state, the polymer chains of PPE1 were packed with a low degree of crystallinity because of the sterically hindered(2'-ethyl-hexyl)oxy branched side chains, but, because of the introduction of allyloxy side chains, the polymer chains of PPE2 were packed in an order fashion with a high degree of crystallinity. Because of the high crosslinking density in C-PPE2, the formation of aggregates and excimer was hampered by the formed crosslinking network more effectively in C-PPE2 film than in C-PPE1 film.
文摘Background:Nests are composed of and built with different materials that are handled in specific ways. These mate?rials must initially have been used de novo before commonly being incorporated into nests. Plastic and plastic bags were invented in the 1950s, and they are widely distributed in the environment. Birds started picking up plastic from plastic used to cover farm produce such as silage, potatoes, beets and other crops for use in their nests in the 1960s.Methods:I recorded the frequency of such plastic use by the Blackbird(Turdus merula) in nests in Denmark, starting in 1966, followed by a peak in use in the 1970s and a subsequent decline.Results:Nests with plastic were initially built earlier in the season than those without plastic, indicating an associa?tion between innovation and early reproduction. Plastic use was subsequently selected against because nests with plastic suffered from higher rates of predation than nests without plastic, probably because nests with plastic were easier to locate. However, the elevated risk of nest predation only applied to outdoor nests, but not to nests inside buildings, probably because visually searching nest predators such as corvids do not enter buildings.Conclusions:These findings show that the dynamics of nest material use depend on the benefits of innovation and the fitness costs of nest predation.
文摘In the process of clothing image researching,how to segment the clothing quickly and accurately and retain the clothing style details as much as possible is the basis of subsequent image analysis.Spectral clustering clothing image segmentation algorithm is a common method in the process of clothing image extraction.However,the traditional model requires high computing power and is easily affected by the initial center of clustering.It often falls into local optimization.Aiming at the above two points,an improved spectral clustering clothing image segmentation algorithm is proposed in this paper.The Nystrom approximation strategy is introduced into the spectral mapping process to reduce the computational complexity.In the clustering stage,this algorithm uses the global optimization advantage of the particle swarm optimization algorithm and selects the sparrow search algorithm to search the optimal initial clustering point,to effectively avoid the occurrence of local optimization.In the end,the effectiveness of this algorithm is verified on clothing images in each environment.
文摘英语中的许多成语都有它的特殊来历及意义,如果我们不对其加以了解,在翻译的时候就很容易望文生义,贻笑大方。请看下面二例:1.The rooms are all shipshape for our guests.2.When my ship comes home,we’ll buy that house by the sea.在例1中,all shipshape 源于 all shipshape and Bristol fashion,意为“为船出港作好充分准备”。Bristol 为英国港口。