A Review of 2023 Supervision Updates of Cosmetics in China

In 2023,multiple supporting documents of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics and regulatory requirements for toothpaste were successively introduced.This article provides a detailed introduction to the updates of domestic cosmetics regulations in China in 2023,and sorts out the details of the 2023 unqualified cosmetics notification and flight inspection issued by regulatory authorities,analyzes the reasons,and helps cosmetics companies further understand regulatory requirements,implement the main responsibility of cosmetics quality and safety,and respond to changes in cosmetics regulatory policies,so as to avoid being notified of unqualified products,economic and reputation losses as much as possible.

Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee

On May 6th,2024,National Medical Products Administration issued Announcement on the Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee(No.53 of 2024).According to the announcement,National Medical Products Administration is about to establish Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee,aiming at furthering implementing Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics,and promoting the formulation and revision of the cosmetics standard(including toothpaste).

Research Progress on Application of Borneol As Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol, as a traditional natural permeation enhancer, has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. In this review, the mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described. The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced. The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized, and its effects on skin-spot treatment, acne skin care, eczema skin care, skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced. Finally, the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward, and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given.

Study on the Efficacy Claim and Evaluation Method of Lip Cosmetics

To study the efficacy of lip moisturizing cosmetics and explore the methods for evaluating their efficacy.The claimed efficacy and number of claimed efficacy of 44 lip moisturizing cosmetics were investigated,and a combination of in vitro and human testing was used to evaluate the efficacy of the lip moisturizing cosmetics.The efficacy claims of lip cosmetics mainly included 4 categories of moisturizing,repairing,soothing and anti-wrinkle,with 79.55%of the products claiming 3~4 categories of efficacy.In the in vitro test,the cell morphology of the skin damage model improved and the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors decreased significantly.In the human trial,the water content,skin softness and brightness L value of the cuticle of the lips increased significantly in 31 subjects,and the transepidermal water loss,redness a value,and the area and volume of lip wrinkles decreased significantly;the dryness of the lip skin and the uniformity of the skin texture improved significantly.The dryness of lip skin and the uniformity of skin texture were significantly improved.The results show that the moisture content of the stratum corneum can be used to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of lip products.The transepidermal water loss,skin color,skin softness and expert assessment can be used to evaluate the repairing efficacy.The observation of cell morphology of skin damage models and the detection of pro-inflammatory factor content can be used to evaluate the soothing efficacy.The area and volume of lip wrinkles can be used to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of products.

Research on Current Situation and Legal Regulation of Cosmetics Live Streaming E-commerce in China

Analyze the compatibility between cosmetics and live streaming e-commerce from its own nature,marketing means and supply chain characteristics.According to the prominent problems,sort out the relationship between all parties in the cosmetics live e-commerce industry chain.Combined with the latest regulatory policies of live streaming e-commerce and cosmetics,the responsibilities of different subjects in cosmetics live streaming e-commerce are summarized,and relevant suggestions and countermeasures are put forward for the standardization and development of live streaming e-commerce.Cosmetics brand owners are the first responsible persons for product quality.Anchors,as a mixed identity between intermediary,advertising spokesperson and operator,should bear stricter joint and several liability when recommending products related to consumers’health.If anchors fail to clearly identify themselves in the recommendation process,thus causing consumers to mistake them for the operator of the cosmetics,they should assume the obligations of the operator.

The Potential Impact of Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022

This article described the current regulatory requirements of cosmetics in the United States,listed the major changes and adjustments of the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022,such as the mandatory system of adverse event reporting and the registration of voluntary changes to mandatory,and analyzed the new regulatory requirements in depth,and put forward some suggestions for enterprises to cope with the strategy,so as to help enterprises adapt to the new policy more smoothly when exporting cosmetics.

Shanghai mapped out the guidance to“Cosmetics Samples”for the first time

On April 7th,2023,the supervisory department of Xuhui district published the first Guidance to“Cosmetics Samples”for the First Time(Trial).It unified the management requirement regarding cosmetics samples,guided managers to develop responsibility awareness and prevent and advert risks beforehand.Besides,it identified the definition of“cosmetics samples”.

Customized Cosmetics: A Concept or the Future?

On April 10,2023,the Shanghai Municipal Medical Products Administration issued a notice on the public consultation of the“Shanghai Pudong New Area General Cosmetics On-site Personalized Service Review Rules(for trial implementation)”(draft for comment),marking the public call for comments from April 3 to May 2,2023.

Research of Several Evaluation Methods of Soothing Efficacy in Cosmetics

In order to search an appropriate evaluation method for the soothing effect of cosmetics,the LPS-induced macrophage model,SDS-stimulated zebrafish embryos model and the clinical assessment were used.The results showed that the concentration of NO and IL-6 was significantly reduced in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells when applied to two essences.The inhibition rate of NO-release was 85.87%and 84.57%,while IL-6 was 44.18%and 38.76%,respectively.Furthermore,the spontaneous rotating of zebrafish embryos was significantly decreased to 51.85%and 76.54%in SDS-stimulated zebrafish embryos model.In the 28 days of clinical assessment,the concentration of hydration was significantly increased to 55.56%and 39.61%,while the erythrodesis was significantly decreased to 4.75%and 6.68%.This indicates that the three evaluation methods of soothing efficacy in this research were effective,and can be used in the evaluation of cosmetics.

Research Progress on Application of Borneol as Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol,as a traditional natural permeation enhancer,has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients.The mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described.The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced.The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized,and its effects on skin-spot treatment,acne skin care,eczema skin care,skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced.Finally,the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward,and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given。

Research Progress on the Application of β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotides in Cosmetics

Recent studies have found that nicotinamide mononucleotide(nicotinamide mononucleotide,NMN)also has certain anti-aging,photoprotection,anti-oxidation,and soothing to the skin,while affects the level of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide(nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide,NAD+)to improve aging-related diseases.These skincare features have laid the foundation for its application in cosmetics.NMN has been used in cosmetics and sold on the market in foreign countries,but there have been debates about its safety.It is currently as a new raw material for cosmetics in China,and its safety is also under monitoring.This paper systematically reviewed the basic properties,skin care functions and the safety of its application in cosmetics,aiming to provide theoretical reference for the development and application of NMN.

An Exploration of Translation Strategies of Global Cosmetics Brands Based on Reception Aesthetics

With the advancement of economic globalization,the flow of commodities from one country to another has become closer and closer.Especially in recent years,the logistics industry has been developing rapidly,overseas purchasing agents and cross-border online shopping have been enormously prevailing,and accordingly more and more British and American cosmetics expect to occupy a place in the huge market of China.Therefore,it is particularly important to explore the Chinese translation strategies for British and American cosmetic brands.Based on the theory of reception aesthetics,this thesis takes the corpus Estee Lauder,La mer,and other famous cosmetics brands.The thesis proposes several methods for translating cosmetic brands:transliteration for proper names like person or geography names;free translation to recreate brand aesthetics;creative translation for new brands;and adapted translation for divergence in language habits.Therefore,this thesis is of theoretical and practical significance as far as the field of cosmetics is concerned.

Sustainable Marketing at the Heart of Cosmetics Companies:Myth or Reality?

Cosmetic companies are trying to include more sustainability in their strategies. But, showing commitment is always a challenge for them. This work consists in showing the degree of commitment of cosmetic companies in their marketing practices. The qualitative study carried out aims to determine the level of their commitment in terms of sustainability, based on 10 websites of “sustainable” cosmetics companies that sell their products online, and on defining sustainability criteria for each variable of the marketing mix. The results indicate that the majority of the companies analyzed are aware of the importance of sustainability and have taken measures to have a positive impact on the economy, society and the environment. The companies have made considerable efforts in “product” and “communication” strategies, but additional improvements can be envisaged for “price” and “distribution” strategies.

Application of in Vitro Alternative Tests Based on AOP in Skin Sensitization Evaluation of Cosmetics

To evaluate and discuss two novels in vitro alternative tests which based on the 2nd and 4th event of the AOP in skin sensitization and their application in skin sensitization evaluation of cosmetics in vitro.The DSens(DSens method)and Jurkat(TCPA method)were used as the test models and 9 of reference chemicals and 12 kinds of cosmetic products were used to confirm and assess the application capability in skin sensitization.The results showed that the DSens method was more sensitive to the reference chemicals compare to the TCPA method.All the results of cosmetic products showed a high consistency between these two assays and h-CLAT or in vivo assay.As the new screening method for skin sensitization evaluation of cosmetics,the in vitro alternative tests based on AOP have certain effectiveness.The reasonable combination strategy can bring a bright future for the development and application of animal alternative test in China.

Determination of Oleuropein in Cosmetics by Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Triple Quadrupole Tandem Mass Spectrometry

An ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole tandem mass spectrometry(UPLC-MS/MS)was established to quickly and accurately determine the content of oleuropein in cosmetics.The samples were extracted with methanol-aqueous solution,and the mobile phase with methanol-formic acid solution(0.1 mol/L)=40∶60 was separated by Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18(2.1 mm×50 mm×1.8μm-Micron)column temperature 30℃,flow rate 0.3 mL/min.The MS end was detected by electrospray negative mode ionization(ESI-)and multiple reaction monitoring(MRM)mode.The results show a good linear relationship in the range of 0.002~5 mg/L,with a correlation coefficient R2 of 0.999,5.Method recovery range from 84.2%~107.6%and the relative standard deviation RSD is 5.8%.The detection time is 5 min,the detection limit is 0.000,6 mg/L,and the limit of quantification is 0.002 mg/L.This method has the advantages of convenient operation,low quantification limit,high precision and good repeatability,and is suitable for measuring the content of oleuropein in many kinds of cosmetics.

Review on the Development of Cosmetic Industry from the Perspective of Group Standards

From the perspective of group standards, the dynamics of the cosmetic industry in the past few years were briefly reviewed and analyzed, including the number of group standards published, types of group standards, groups, and geographical distribution of the groups. The large number of participating groups and the wide range of geographical distribution indicated that group standards could play a positive role in the sustained and positive development of cosmetic industry. The future development of cosmetic industry was also prospected。

Factors Associated with Voluntary Cosmetic Depigmentation in Schools in the Collines Department (Benin)

Skin depigmentation is a worrying practice that is gaining popularity, particularly among young girls. However, this practice poses health risks. It also reflects a negative view of black skin color. This was a cross-sectional study carried out between April and May 2023 which involved 1039 female students from schools and universities in the Collines department selected by stratified sampling. Data was collected during a face-to-face interview using a questionnaire providing information on the demographic, socio-cultural, and economic characteristics of the girls. The depigmentation products used were identified as well as the complications caused by the use of these products. Statistical analysis made it possible to calculate the frequencies and logistic regression made it possible to identify the factors associated with depigmentation. The prevalence of depigmentation among the girls surveyed was 78.2%. The main products used were soaps based on mercurial derivative and hydroquinone (21.6%) and lotions based on hydroquinone and corticosteroids (75.7%). The factors associated with the practice of depigmentation were the ethnicity of the respondents (OR = 2.52;95% CI = [0.47 - 13.33], p = 0.001);the average monthly income of the parents (OR = 3.26;95% CI = [1.71 - 6.09], p = 0.003);the opinion of the respondents on depigmentation (OR = 2.48;95% CI = [0.84 - 7.3], p < 0.001) and the value given to light skin versus black skin (OR = 3.41;95% CI = [2.32 - 5.01], p < 0.001). In conclusion, the prevalence of depigmentation among the girls surveyed is high. Consequently, reinforced awareness measures and stricter control of bleaching products are imperative to address this high prevalence of the phenomenon.

Advances in the Study of Anoectochilus Roxburghii Extracts and Prospects for Cosmetic Application Potentials

Cosmetics made from natural ingredients are becoming more and more common because they contain bioactive compounds that provide many health benefits,are more environmentally friendly and sustainable.Anoectochilus roxburghii(AR)is a precious Chinese herb in China,possessing bioactive components including flavonoids,polysaccharides,volatile oils,kinsenoside,etc.Due to its unique bioactivity and high safety,the prospect of development and utilization is very broad.In this paper,the extraction,separation and purification techniques of AR’s flavonoid,polysaccharides,volatile oils and kinsenoside are briefly summarized.Meanwhile,we discusses their conformational relationships in cosmetics with antioxidant,whitening,antibacterial and soothing effect,and looks forward to the study of Anoectochilus roxburghii in the field of cosmetics,with a view to providing references to the development and utilization of this resource in the field of cosmetics.

Curriculum Reform Practices in “Cosmetic Product Formulation Design and Preparation Technology” Under the Perspective of Integration of Industry, Education, and Research

With the upgrading of industries,the cosmetics industry has posed new requirements for technical talents.As a professional core course in cosmetic technology,“Cosmetic Product Formulation Design and Preparation Technology”serves as the foundation for cultivating students’abilities in cosmetic development and preparation.To foster high-quality skilled talents capable of adapting to the rapid growth of color cosmetics and to better promote the deep integration of scientific and technological industries with curriculum teaching,the teacher team embarked on active explorations and practical teaching research for curriculum teaching reform from four dimensions:strengthening top-level design,enriching teaching content,optimizing teaching design,and reforming assessment methods.These efforts have enhanced students’comprehensive vocational qualities and innovative consciousness,contributing to the teaching reform in higher vocational colleges under the integration of industry,education,and research.

In-Cosmetics回顾

In—Cosmetics2007化妆品原料贸易展示会于2007年4月17日。2007年4月19日在巴黎召开。据组织者称，展会创下了参展商数量新记录。展会上，供应商展示了一系列新产品。