Study on Fabric and Seam Strength Loss of Denim Trousers for Different Washing Treatments

This paper shows that fabric and seam strength loss (%) of the selected denim trousers occurred for different washing applications. At first, a commonly used denim fabric of 12.5 Oz/yd2 was selected to make the trousers containing two types of seam i.e. superimposed and lapped seam. Then bleach, enzyme and acid wash were applied on the produced trousers and fabric & seam strength loss were determined by using related standard and equipment. It was found that fabric strength loss is higher in case of acid wash and the loss of seam strength is higher in case of enzyme wash.

Optimization of Finishing Process and Energy Savings in Denim Textile Facility

Denim is widely accepted among exported textile products due to its aesthetics, appearance, and fashion. Practitioners employed several physical or chemical treatments to improve denim qualities in denim finishing operations. So, several treatment processes, including enzymatic, bleaching, singeing, heat set, and ozone finish, are used, which made this processing more energy consumption and time-consuming. Therefore, it is significant to investigate how changing the chemicals and raw ingredients could improve the finishing process, which is environmentally and economically beneficial for sustainable production practices in the denim finishing process. This study’s research design comprises an experimental investigation in a denim plant in Bangladesh. Two different fabrics were chosen to analyze, determining the potential savings of finishing on the denim fabrics’ performance characteristics. By deducting singeing and heat-set processes, the researchers ran an experimental process by maintaining the same length of fabric. Then, the impacts of finishing process optimization on the mechanical, thermal, and comfort parameters of drape, stiffness, and tear strength were examined. The study’s findings demonstrated that this experiment increased productivity and reduced the finishing unit’s energy consumption without compromising the denim fabrics’ quality. This study significantly impacts environmental sustainability by preserving limited energy resources and manufacturing denim finishing processes.

拼布元素在牛仔服装中的应用

从服装的形式美学原理出发,对不同风格、类型的牛仔服装的拼接手法进行了分析,并对其在牛仔服装中的运用进行归纳,总结了牛仔服装中拼布艺术的设计形式和风格表现,希望对拼布元素在牛仔服装设计中的应用提供思路。

Evaluation of Economical and Ecological Aspects of Denim Garments Dyeing with Fluorescent Dye

In this study the existing process (3 steps) and proposed process (2 steps) were evaluated during dyeing of denim fabric with fluorescent dye. It compared the effectiveness of these two processes of fluorescent dyeing in the textile industry. Here at first the grey denim fabric was pretreated by scouring and bleaching. Then the fabric was dyed in existing process i.e. through catanizing, dyeing and binding at 10% and 15% shades. Again the pretreated fabric was dyed in proposed process i.e. through catanizing and (dyeing and binding) with same shades. Then the properties of two types of dyed fabric were compared. This study provides a set of experimental results, discussion and comparison between the two processes. The results show that the proposed process has less power and time consumption and more water savings compared to existing process. So the evaluation reflected that the proposed process was much more effective than existing process of denim dyeing with fluorescent dye.

Evaluate the Strength of Denim Goods Using Different Washing Technique

Day by day, the demand and popularity of denim have increased. With the increase in demand for denim, washing has also increased. When we washed a piece of denim fabric, then its properties also changed. The properties are tensile strength, GSM, color fading, stiffness, abrasion resistance, moisture regain, etc. In this study, we conduct different washing processes on denim fabric such are Stonewash, Caustic wash, Acid wash, Normal wash, Pigment wash, Sandblasting, and Super whitewash. After washing, the properties of denim fabric have been analyzed especially strength. The tear and tensile strength were measured by ISO standard. From the above washing method, Normal & pigment wash showed good strength properties comparing with others.

牛仔用锦纶66包芯纱的设计优化

为了丰富牛仔用包芯纱的种类,分别以锦纶66 33.3 dtex/34 F、锦纶66 33.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝,以粘胶、莱赛尔短纤为外包纤维,设计了36.4 tex、28.1 tex、18.5 tex共12种牛仔用包芯纱。通过优化纺纱各工序工艺,在细纱机上采用赛络包芯纱技术成功试制了12种锦纶66包芯纱。通过包芯纱横截面图像比较,分析对比了包覆效果;通过断裂强力、条干CV值和毛羽指标测试,分析对比了包芯纱的性能指标。结果表明:当包芯纱外包纤维相同时,以锦纶66 33.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝,包芯纱的包覆效果和性能指标较优;当包芯纱芯丝相同时,以莱赛尔为外包纤维的包芯纱外观风格和性能指标较优。认为:综合包覆效果、纱线风格和性能指标,采用以锦纶6633.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝、莱赛尔为外包纤维的牛仔用包芯纱是牛仔产品的优选用纱。

不同配棉和捻系数对牛仔面料风格的影响

探讨不同的配棉和捻系数纱线对牛仔面料颜色和水洗风格的影响。分别采用低配棉和高配棉面料、低捻纱和高捻纱面料进行染色,利用CHES-FY纺织材料手感风格测试仪对水洗后的面料风格进行了测试。结果表明:配棉成熟度越高,颜色越深,水洗后的面料花度越自然;配棉中处理棉质量分数越高,面料色牢度越差;配棉对面料的手感风格影响不大。低捻纱面料颜色最深,布面纹路清晰度最好;高捻纱面料布面有条花,纹路清晰度差;低捻纱面料柔软度和滑爽度好,适合作薄款针织牛仔面料,高捻纱面料硬挺度和松紧度高,适合作风格粗犷的牛仔面料。

靛蓝染色牛仔面料耐臭氧色牢度提升剂的制备与应用

为提高靛蓝染色牛仔面料的耐臭氧色牢度,以四乙烯五胺和环氧氯丙烷为原材料制备含环氧基的氨基大分子缩合物耐臭氧色牢度提升剂。分析测试表明,其重均分子质量为43981,环氧值为1.0250,伯胺胺值为24.8120,仲胺胺值为86.4606,并体现出较好的还原能力。将耐臭氧色牢度提升剂用于牛仔面料的处理,当处理浴pH为11、温度为50℃、浸渍时间为20 min、耐臭氧色牢度提升剂用量大于2%(omf)时,可以使牛仔面料的耐臭氧色牢度由原来的2~3级提升到4级。

Porel纤维结构表征及其针织物热湿舒适性对比

测试分析了Coolmax/氨纶混纺针织物、棉/氨纶混纺针织物、Porel/棉/氨纶混纺针织物的透湿快干性能,以及Porel牛仔织物及棉型牛仔织物的热湿舒适性能。结果表明:Porel针织物速干性能、液态水分管理能力、热湿平衡的调控能力优于Coolmax化纤针织物及棉型针织物;Porel牛仔织物的导湿性能相比棉型牛仔织物提高了20.9%。

牛仔面料的保暖整理技术研究

文章采用远红外吸收剂对牛仔面料进行保暖涂层整理,通过单因素试验分析远红外吸收剂浓度、交联剂浓度和烘焙温度对保暖整理效果的影响,结果表明:结合生产效率和成本,最佳的涂层工艺为远红外吸收剂浓度为35 g/L,弹性剂浓度为15 g/L,烘焙温度为170℃。

牛仔面料的色牢度提升工艺研究

文章介绍了采用软手感保色树脂对牛仔面料进行色牢度提升的整理工艺,通过单因素试验分析了软手感保色树脂浓度、交联剂浓度和烘焙温度对牛仔面料色牢度的影响,结果表明:结合生产效率和成本,最佳的涂层工艺为软手感保色手感浓度为190 g/L,交联剂浓度为6 g/L,烘焙温度为170℃,车速为30 m/min。

牛仔面料在服装设计中的应用研究

21世纪,随着工业革命和机械化的普及,“快时尚”文化开始拥抱大众生活,越来越多的消费者开始追求个性、流行、时尚、自由的消费需求。在这种情况下,创新性的牛仔服装越来越多地出现在大众生活中,并以其个性化和艺术化的特点吸引着消费者的目光。文章通过对牛仔面料及牛仔服装的文献资料的分析,概括了牛仔面料的起源发展以及牛仔服装设计的发展趋势,从风格、质感、色彩等方面着重研究了牛仔面料的特点,鉴赏分析了牛仔服装设计师们的相关理念和作品,归纳了牛仔面料在现代服装设计中应用的创新方法,以期为现代可持续发展理念下的牛仔服装设计提供参考。

影响三芯弹力纱牛仔织物风格的因素分析

为了提高三芯弹力纱牛仔布面质量,详述传统三芯弹力纱装置存在的问题,探讨装置改造方法、改造后设备存在的问题及解决措施;通过不同张力作用进行包覆试验,根据包覆效果分析三芯纱长丝外漏原因并提出整改方法,并以3个不同包芯纱品种布幅不匀为例,通过数据分析、显微镜观察、拆纱分析方法判断氨纶丝断丝、氨纶丝劈丝和丝牵伸倍数不正常的原因并阐述解决措施。指出:控制三芯纱布面漏丝要保证长丝退绕张力平稳均匀、无阻力,可采用上下张力装置改善漏丝问题;要加强巡回检查和把关力度,避免因无丝、断丝、劈丝等问题导致布面起皱或失弹;巡回检查中应及时发现影响氨纶丝牵伸倍数的相关因素,避免罗拉缠绕,提高三芯纱的生产效率,提高纱线及布面质量。

仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5项指标进行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。

羊毛牛仔面料的开发及其性能研究

从纱线选择和制备、织造、后整理、成衣水洗工艺等方面探讨了羊毛牛仔面料的开发,测试分析了羊毛牛仔面料和纯棉牛仔面料的力学指标以及水洗后的织物风格。结果表明,采用32 tex纯棉单纱和32 tex纯毛单纱的合股纱作为经纱和纬纱,选择3/1右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺生产的新型羊毛牛仔面料,其强力及尺寸稳定性与纯棉牛仔面料持平,且水洗后尺寸稳定,既保留了羊毛面料柔软顺滑的手感,又保持了传统牛仔面料的外观风格,达到了预期的设计效果,进一步证明了羊毛牛仔面料开发的可行性。

中性内切-β-葡聚糖酶基因在里氏木霉中的重组与表达

中性内切-β-葡聚糖酶在棉织物生物整理方面具有重要的应用价值,研究首先从特异腐质霉(Humicola insolens)菌株中克隆到一个中性内切-β-葡聚糖酶基因,将该基因置于里氏木霉(Trichoderma reesei)纤维二糖水解酶I强启动子Pcbh1(及其信号肽)和终止子Tcbh1之间,并以pCAMBIA1300为载体骨架构建重组质粒pCB-PHT。采用根瘤农杆菌介导转化技术将重组质粒pCB-PHT导入里氏木霉的分生孢子中,进一步筛选得到八个重组里氏木霉转化子。摇瓶发酵培养72 h时,发酵液的中性内切-β-葡聚糖酶活力最高可达到98.8 IU mL 1左右,是出发菌株的5.1倍。研究成功地实现了外源中性内切-β-葡聚糖酶在丝状真菌里氏木霉中的重组与胞外表达,有关研究结果将在牛仔布水洗工业中发挥出重要作用。

弹力牛仔面料风格分析

采用KES测试系统分析了纯棉牛仔面料和弹力牛仔面料的弯曲性能、摩擦性能和拉伸性能,分析表明,加入弹性纤维的牛仔面料弹性和变形恢复性能明显提高,表面平整度、光滑度增加,弹力牛仔面料比普通纯棉牛仔面料手感更好,抗褶皱性能更优。

纯亚麻牛仔布的开发与设计

采用亚麻纤维原料,开发牛仔布,并通过合理的工艺配置和后整理,使产品既具有牛仔布的粗犷、朴实的风格,又有质地轻薄、手感软滑的优良服用性能,为牛仔布的发展开辟了新的途径,同时对此类产品的设计、生产及技术要点做了说明与分析。

纯棉牛仔布的壳聚糖季铵盐抗菌整理

以3-氯-2-羟丙基三甲基氯化铵(CTA)为改性剂,在碱性条件下制备水溶性壳聚糖季铵盐(HTCC);并应用于纯棉牛仔布的抗菌整理,讨论了整理工艺对纯棉牛仔布抗菌性能的影响。结果表明,HTCC整理纯棉牛仔布的最佳工艺条件为:HTCC3%,柠檬酸6%,次亚磷酸钠4%,60℃浸渍30 min,80℃预烘5 min,160℃焙烘3 min。整理后,纯棉牛仔布抑菌效果可达90%以上。

相变微胶囊的制备及其在牛仔布上的应用

探讨了影响相变微胶囊合成的主要因素,如乳化剂用量、乳化时间和搅拌速度,确定了比较适宜的制备工艺条件。优化了将相变微胶囊采用浸轧工艺和涂层工艺对牛仔布进行处理的工艺条件,并评价了不同整理工艺对牛仔布性能的影响。结果表明,制备的相变微胶囊颗粒较小、粒径分布窄、形态较规整、温度调节性能,可用于牛仔布的智能调温功能整理。