Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it ...Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model , A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the present simulation. By applying this model to Stokes' wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we find that the model results agree very well with experimental data. By use of this model to simulation of the breaking process of a periodic wave, it can be found that the model can reproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker. It reflects the dynamic structures of roller or vortex in the plunging breaker, and when the wave breaks, many strong vortex structures will be produced in the inner surf zone where the concentration of suspended sediment can thereby become relatively high.展开更多
In this paper, the large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling lead...In this paper, the large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads to the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, Such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale model is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this paper has been used to study the propagation of the solitary wave in constant water depth and the shoaling of the non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. The model is based on large eddy simulation, and to track free-surface movements, the Tokyo University Modified Marker and Cell (TUMMAC) method is employed. In order to ensure the accuracy of each component of this wave mathematical model, several steps have been taken to verify calculated solutions; with either analytical solutions or experimental data. For non-breaking waves, very accurate results are obtained for a solitary wave propagating over a constant depth and on a beach. Application of the model to cnoidal wave breaking in the surf zone shows that the model results are in good agreement with analytical solution and experimental data. From the present model results, it can be seen that the turbulent eddy viscosity increases from the bottom to the water surface in surf zone. In the eddy viscosity curve, there is a turn-point obviously, dividing water depth into two parts, in the upper part, the eddy viscosity becomes very large near the wave breaking position.展开更多
As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling effect leads to increaseof wave height, and at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is powerfulagents for generating turbulence, which pl...As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling effect leads to increaseof wave height, and at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is powerfulagents for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamicalprocesses in the surf zone, so a proper numerical model for describing the turbulent effect isneeded urgently. A numerical model is set up to simulate the wave breaking process, which consistsof a free surface model using the surface marker method and the vertical two-dimensional model thatsolves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method wherethe larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small-scaleturbulence that is represented by a sub-grid model. A dynamic eddy viscosity sub-grid scale stressmodel has been used for the present simulation. The large eddy simulation model, which we presentedin this paper, can be used to study the propagation of a solitary wave in constant water depth andthe shoaling of a non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. To track free-surface movements, The TUMMACmethod is employed. By applying the model to wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we found thatthese model results compared very well with experimental data. In addition, this model is able toreproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker.展开更多
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.59809006 and 59890200,and by Grant HKU 7117/99E from the Research Grants Council of the Hongkong Special Administrative Region.
文摘Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model , A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the present simulation. By applying this model to Stokes' wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we find that the model results agree very well with experimental data. By use of this model to simulation of the breaking process of a periodic wave, it can be found that the model can reproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker. It reflects the dynamic structures of roller or vortex in the plunging breaker, and when the wave breaks, many strong vortex structures will be produced in the inner surf zone where the concentration of suspended sediment can thereby become relatively high.
基金This research project was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China and The Hong Kong Research Grants under contracts No. 59809006 and No. 59890200, also by the Science Foundation of Tianjin Municipality under contract No. 9837020
文摘In this paper, the large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads to the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, Such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale model is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this paper has been used to study the propagation of the solitary wave in constant water depth and the shoaling of the non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. The model is based on large eddy simulation, and to track free-surface movements, the Tokyo University Modified Marker and Cell (TUMMAC) method is employed. In order to ensure the accuracy of each component of this wave mathematical model, several steps have been taken to verify calculated solutions; with either analytical solutions or experimental data. For non-breaking waves, very accurate results are obtained for a solitary wave propagating over a constant depth and on a beach. Application of the model to cnoidal wave breaking in the surf zone shows that the model results are in good agreement with analytical solution and experimental data. From the present model results, it can be seen that the turbulent eddy viscosity increases from the bottom to the water surface in surf zone. In the eddy viscosity curve, there is a turn-point obviously, dividing water depth into two parts, in the upper part, the eddy viscosity becomes very large near the wave breaking position.
文摘As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling effect leads to increaseof wave height, and at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is powerfulagents for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamicalprocesses in the surf zone, so a proper numerical model for describing the turbulent effect isneeded urgently. A numerical model is set up to simulate the wave breaking process, which consistsof a free surface model using the surface marker method and the vertical two-dimensional model thatsolves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method wherethe larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small-scaleturbulence that is represented by a sub-grid model. A dynamic eddy viscosity sub-grid scale stressmodel has been used for the present simulation. The large eddy simulation model, which we presentedin this paper, can be used to study the propagation of a solitary wave in constant water depth andthe shoaling of a non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. To track free-surface movements, The TUMMACmethod is employed. By applying the model to wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we found thatthese model results compared very well with experimental data. In addition, this model is able toreproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker.
