Variational Principles and Hamiltonian Formulation for Nonlinear Water Waves

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Numerical Simulation for Nonlinear Water Waves Propagating along the Free Surface

The main aim of this work is to introduce the analytical approximate solutions of the water wave problem for a fluid layer of finite depth in the presence of gravity. To achieve this aim, we begun with the derivation of the Korteweg-de Vries equations for solitons by using the method of multiple scale expansion. The proposed problem describes the behavior of the system for free surface between air and water in a nonlinear approach. To solve this problem, we use the well-known analytical method, namely, variational iteration method (VIM). The proposed method is based on the use of Lagrange multipliers for identification of optimal value of a parameter in a functional. The proposed method provides a sequence of functions which may converge to the exact solution of the proposed problem. Finally, we observe that the elevation of the water waves is in form of traveling solitary waves.

HAMILTONIAN FORMULATION OF NONLINEAR WATER WAVES IN A TWO-FLUID SYSTEM

In this paper, it is dealt with that the Hamiltonian formulation of nonlinear water waves in a two_fluid system,which consists of two layers of constant_density incompressible inviscid fluid with a horizontal bottom,an interface and a free surface. The velocity potentials are expanded in power series of the vertical coordinate. By taking the kinetic thickness of lower fluid_layer and the reduced kinetic thickness of upper fluid_layer as the generalized displacements, choosing the velocity potentials at the interface and free surface as the generalized momenta and using Hamilton's principle, the Hamiltonian canonical equations for the system are derived with the Legendre transformation under the shallow water assumption. Hence the results for single_layer fluid are extended to the case of stratified fluid.

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.

Interactions of nonlinear gravity waves and uniform current in Lagrangian system

The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an Euler-Lagrange transformation.The third-order asymptotic solution is a periodic bounded function of Lagrangian labels and time,which imply that the entire solution is uniformly-valid.The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and mass transport associated with a particle displacement can now be obtained directly in Lagrangian form.The angular frequency and Lagrangian mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian.The variations in the water particle orbits resulting from the oblique interaction with a steady uniform current of different magnitudes are also investigated.

Numerical solutions for two nonlinear wave equations

The split-step pseudo-spectral method is a useful method for solving nonlinear wave equations. However, it is not widely used because of the limitation of the periodic boundary condition. In this paper, the method is modified at its second step by avoiding transforming the wave height function into a frequency domain function. Thus, the periodic boundary condition is not required, and the new method is easy to implement. In order to validate its performance, the proposed method was used to solve the nonlinear parabolic mild-slope equation and the spatial modified nonlinear Schrodinger （MNLS） equation, which were used to model the wave propagation under different bathymetric conditions. Good agreement between the numerical and experimental results shows that the present method is effective and efficient in solving nonlinear wave eouations.

Large-scale edge waves generated by a moving atmospheric pressure

Long waves generated by a moving atmospheric pressure distribution, associated with a storm, in coastal region are investigated numerically. For simplicity the moving atmospheric pressure is assumed to be moving only in the alongshore direction and the beach slope is assumed to be a constant in the on-offshore direction. By solving the linear shallow water equations we obtain numerical solutions for a wide range of physical parameters, including storm size （2a）, storm speed （U）, and beach slope （a）. Based on the numerical results, it is determined that edge wave packets are generated if the storm speed is equal to or greater than the critical velocity, Ucr, which is defined as the phase speed of the fundamental edge wave mode whose wavelength is scaled by the width of the storm size. The length and the location of the positively moving edge wave packet is roughly Ut/2 〈 y 〈 Ut, where y is in the alongshore direction and t is the time. Once the edge wave packet is generated, the wavelength is the same as that of the fundamental edge wave mode corresponding to the storm speed and is independent of the storm size, which can, however, affect the wave amplitude. When the storm speed is less than the critical velocity, the primary surface signature is a depression directly correlated to the atmospheric pressure distribution.

Rogue Waves and Lump Solitons of the(3+1)-Dimensional Generalized B-type Kadomtsev–Petviashvili Equation for Water Waves

In this paper, the(3+1)-dimensional generalized B-type Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation for water waves is investigated. Through the Hirota method and Kadomtsev–Petviashvili hierarchy reduction, we obtain the first-order,higher-order, multiple rogue waves and lump solitons based on the solutions in terms of the Gramian. The first-order rogue waves are the line rogue waves which arise from the constant background and then disappear into the constant background again, while the first-order lump solitons propagate stably. Interactions among several first-order rogue waves which are described by the multiple rogue waves are presented. Elastic interactions of several first-order lump solitons are also presented. We find that the higher-order rogue waves and lump solitons can be treated as the superpositions of several first-order ones, while the interaction between the second-order lump solitons is inelastic.

Invariant subspaces,exact solutions and stability analysis of nonlinear water wave equations

The key purpose of the present research is to derive the exact solutions of nonlinear water wave equations(NLWWEs)in oceans through the invariant subspace scheme(ISS).In this respect,the NLWWEs which describe specific nonlinear waves are converted to a number of systems of ordinary differential equations(ODEs)such that the resulting systems can be efficiently handled by computer algebra systems.As an accomplishment,the performance of the well-designed ISS in extracting a group of exact solutions is formally confirmed.In the end,the stability analysis for the NLWWE is investigated through the linear stability scheme.

IMPROVED MODEL FOR THREE DIMENSIONAL NONLINEAR WATER WAVE FORCE PREDICTION

An improved model for numerically predicting nonlinear wave forces exerted on an offshore structure is pro- posed.In a previous work[9],the authors presented a model for the same purpose with an open boundary condi- tion imposed,where the wave celerity has been defined constant.Generally,the value of wave celerity is time-de- pendent and varying with spatial location.With the present model the wave celerity is evaluated by an upwind dif- ference scheme,which enables the method to be extended to conditions of variable finite water depth,where the value of wave celerity varies with time as the wave approaches the offshore structure.The finite difference method incorporated with the time-stepping technique in time domain developed here makes the numerical evolution effec- tive and stable.Computational examples on interactions between a surface-piercing vertical cylinder and a solitary wave or a cnoidal wave train demonstrates the validity of this program.

Specific wave structures of a fifth-order nonlinear water wave equation

Investigated in the present paper is a fifth-order nonlinear evolution(FONLE)equation,known as a nonlinear water wave(NLWW)equation,with applications in the applied sciences.More precisely,a traveling wave hypothesis is firstly applied that reduces the FONLE equation to a 1D domain.The Kudryashov methods(KMs)are then adopted as leading techniques to construct specific wave structures of the governing model which are classified as W-shaped and other solitons.In the end,the effect of changing the coefficients of nonlinear terms on the dynamical features of W-shaped and other solitons is investigated in detail for diverse groups of the involved parameters.

Run-up of non-breaking double solitary waves with equal wave heights on a plane beach

The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations（NSWEs） and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through comparing the present numerical results with analytical solutions and laboratory measurements available for propagation and run-up of single solitary wave. Two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights and variable separation distance of two crests were used as the incoming wave on the open boundary at the toe of a slope beach. The run-ups of the first wave and the second wave with different separation distances were investigated. It is found that the run-up of the first wave does not change with the separation distance and the run-up of the second wave is affected slightly by the separation distance when the separation distance is gradually shortening. The ratio of the maximum run-up of the second wave to one of the first wave is related to the separation distance as well as wave height and slope. The run-ups of double solitary waves were compared with the linearly superposed results of two individual solitary-wave run-ups. The comparison reveals that linear superposition gives reasonable prediction when the separation distance is large, but it may overestimate the actual run-up when two waves are close.