The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induc...The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induced currents in the Haller experiment and the ideal arc-shaped coast similar to Sanya Dadonghai, Hainan Province,China. The results showed that the FUNWAVE model has considerable ability to simulate the rip currents, and it was used to further simulate rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines to investigate their characteristics. The rip currents were found to be stronger as the curvature of arc-shaped coastline increased. Coastal beach slope exerts a significant influence on rip currents; in particular, an overly steep or overly mild slope is not conducive to creating rip currents. Furthermore, the rip currents were found to become weaker as the size of arc-shaped coast decreased. When the height and period of waves increase, the strength of rip currents also increases, and, in some cases, wave heights of 0.4 m may produce dangerous rip currents.展开更多
To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performe...To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.展开更多
Surface gravity waves continually come to the beach but rarely go back to sea. They bring excess mass to shore which must be returned offshore. Rip currents do that job because there is less overall friction in the ne...Surface gravity waves continually come to the beach but rarely go back to sea. They bring excess mass to shore which must be returned offshore. Rip currents do that job because there is less overall friction in the nearshore region than there is in the only other imagined circulation, a two-layer scheme, which has in fact never been seen. An argument is presented to support this proposal. If correct, rip currents join a group of geophysical flow phenomena that persist, probably because there is zero friction associated with them, which include surface gravity waves, tornadoes and hurricanes, individually promoted recently.展开更多
A process-based 3-D hydrodynamic model is established to simulate the rip current structures under irregular bathymetry. The depth-varying wave-induced residual momentum, the surface rollers, the turbulent mixing and ...A process-based 3-D hydrodynamic model is established to simulate the rip current structures under irregular bathymetry. The depth-varying wave-induced residual momentum, the surface rollers, the turbulent mixing and the wave-current interactions are considered. Experimental datasets are used to validate the model, and it is shown that the model can effectively describe the 3-D structures of the rip currents in both normal and oblique wave incident cases. The flow patterns of the rip currents see various characteristics for different incident wave directions. In the normal incident case, pairs of counter-rotating primary circulation cells are formed, and an offshore rip flow occurs in the embayment troughs. The peak seaward velocities occur at the top of the bed boundary layer, and the undertow is incorporated in addition to the rip currents. In the oblique incident case, the longshore currents are dominant, which result in a meandering flow along the depth contour, and the undertow is weaker compared to that in the normal incident condition.展开更多
Poorly-sorted conglomerate patches rich in granules or sturdy fossils or both, and reddish mud matrix within the interstices stand out amidst fine-grained siliciclastic shelf sediments of the trangressive systems trac...Poorly-sorted conglomerate patches rich in granules or sturdy fossils or both, and reddish mud matrix within the interstices stand out amidst fine-grained siliciclastic shelf sediments of the trangressive systems tract(TST) of the Lower Cretaceous Ukra Member, Kutch Basin, India. The siliciclastic shelf sediments contrast the conglomerates with their remarkable lateral extension. The fossils belong to a low-diversity group of sedentary bivalves that can be traced into the shoreface facies assemblage. The shelf sandstones are almost always sculpted by wave structures,especially hummocky cross-stratification while textures in the conglomerates suggest that the sediment settling was generally from suspensions. Textural variations in conglomerates reflect an immediate variation in flow viscosity prior to the downloading. The current structures obtained from the conglomerates record offshoreward palaeocurrent, in contrast to the shore-parallel palaeocurrent in the TST. The hummocky cross-stratified(HCS) beds are interpreted as seasonal storm deposits, while the conglomerate patches are taken as rip current deposits induced by waves of much longer periods. The glauconite-rich shale that alternates with conglomerates is probable fair-weather products. The conglomerates could not be recognized either in the coarse-grained shoreface deposits occupying the lower part of the overall fining-upward TST or in the coarsening-upward and glauconite-depleted highstand systems tract(HST). In contrast to the TST, the HST is dominantly tide-imprinted, having shore-normal palaeocurrent direction. It appears that intensification of waves and weakening of tides during transgression favored strong rip currents generation, which had presumably caused severe damage to the sea coast and to the shell banks growing preferably at the necks of the rip current channels. Rapid lateral facies transitions in the shoreface deposits at the basal part of the TST suggest enhanced irregularity in the coastline, possibly because of the mega cusps indented upon it. Frequency and intensity of storms enhanced during periods of global warming caused the transgression of the Early Cretaceous Ukra Sea.展开更多
Al-Nakheel beach is located northwest of Alexandria city,Egypt,along the Mediterranean coast.During the period from 1998 to 2003,seven detached breakwaters were constructed along Al-Nakheel beach to create a sheltered...Al-Nakheel beach is located northwest of Alexandria city,Egypt,along the Mediterranean coast.During the period from 1998 to 2003,seven detached breakwaters were constructed along Al-Nakheel beach to create a sheltered area for swimming.Unfortunately,the structures amplify rip currents,shoreline accretions,and erosions.The aim of this research is to track the variations of the rip currents within the study area and show the effects of the breakwaters on the shoreline.The research is based on the hydrodynamic and morphological data of the study area and uses the Delft3D hydrodynamical model combined with other data analysis tools to serve the model input.The data include measured sea-level observations in 2013,the ERA-interim wave datasets from 2015 to 2018 and wind data in 2018,bed morphologies,and Google Earth satellite images from 2010 to 2020.The model is calibrated on the basis of the available current measurements within the nearshore zone.Results show that the shoreline eroded at an average rate of about 0.9 m/yr.Moreover,pairs of vortices are formed behind the breakwaters with an average current velocity of 0.6 m/s.The predominant northwest waves induce rip currents on the leeside of the structures with velocities reaching 1.2 m/s,associated with the rip pulsation that extends offshore.The problem solution decision recommends the removal of the sand deposition on the leeside of the breakwaters by an average amount of 100000 m3/yr and the fencing of the safe area for swimming by a floating fence of 1000 m length and 65 m average width.展开更多
基金The National Natural Science Foundation under contract Nos 41206163,41076048 and 41376012the Operation Expenses for Universities'Basic Scientific Research of Central Authorities under contract Nos 2011B05714 and 2014B06514
文摘The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induced currents in the Haller experiment and the ideal arc-shaped coast similar to Sanya Dadonghai, Hainan Province,China. The results showed that the FUNWAVE model has considerable ability to simulate the rip currents, and it was used to further simulate rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines to investigate their characteristics. The rip currents were found to be stronger as the curvature of arc-shaped coastline increased. Coastal beach slope exerts a significant influence on rip currents; in particular, an overly steep or overly mild slope is not conducive to creating rip currents. Furthermore, the rip currents were found to become weaker as the size of arc-shaped coast decreased. When the height and period of waves increase, the strength of rip currents also increases, and, in some cases, wave heights of 0.4 m may produce dangerous rip currents.
基金supported by China’s Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean (No. 200905013-4)by Ministry of Science and Technology of China (No. 2011BAC03B01)
文摘To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.
文摘Surface gravity waves continually come to the beach but rarely go back to sea. They bring excess mass to shore which must be returned offshore. Rip currents do that job because there is less overall friction in the nearshore region than there is in the only other imagined circulation, a two-layer scheme, which has in fact never been seen. An argument is presented to support this proposal. If correct, rip currents join a group of geophysical flow phenomena that persist, probably because there is zero friction associated with them, which include surface gravity waves, tornadoes and hurricanes, individually promoted recently.
基金supported by the Central Public Institute Foundation of Tianjin Research Institute for Water Transport Engineering,Ministry of Transport(Grant No.TKS100102)
文摘A process-based 3-D hydrodynamic model is established to simulate the rip current structures under irregular bathymetry. The depth-varying wave-induced residual momentum, the surface rollers, the turbulent mixing and the wave-current interactions are considered. Experimental datasets are used to validate the model, and it is shown that the model can effectively describe the 3-D structures of the rip currents in both normal and oblique wave incident cases. The flow patterns of the rip currents see various characteristics for different incident wave directions. In the normal incident case, pairs of counter-rotating primary circulation cells are formed, and an offshore rip flow occurs in the embayment troughs. The peak seaward velocities occur at the top of the bed boundary layer, and the undertow is incorporated in addition to the rip currents. In the oblique incident case, the longshore currents are dominant, which result in a meandering flow along the depth contour, and the undertow is weaker compared to that in the normal incident condition.
基金the Council of Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR) Government of India sponsoring the Project No.24(0336)/14/EMR-Ⅱthe Department of Science and Technology (DST) Government of India sponsoring an Inspire Fellowship。
文摘Poorly-sorted conglomerate patches rich in granules or sturdy fossils or both, and reddish mud matrix within the interstices stand out amidst fine-grained siliciclastic shelf sediments of the trangressive systems tract(TST) of the Lower Cretaceous Ukra Member, Kutch Basin, India. The siliciclastic shelf sediments contrast the conglomerates with their remarkable lateral extension. The fossils belong to a low-diversity group of sedentary bivalves that can be traced into the shoreface facies assemblage. The shelf sandstones are almost always sculpted by wave structures,especially hummocky cross-stratification while textures in the conglomerates suggest that the sediment settling was generally from suspensions. Textural variations in conglomerates reflect an immediate variation in flow viscosity prior to the downloading. The current structures obtained from the conglomerates record offshoreward palaeocurrent, in contrast to the shore-parallel palaeocurrent in the TST. The hummocky cross-stratified(HCS) beds are interpreted as seasonal storm deposits, while the conglomerate patches are taken as rip current deposits induced by waves of much longer periods. The glauconite-rich shale that alternates with conglomerates is probable fair-weather products. The conglomerates could not be recognized either in the coarse-grained shoreface deposits occupying the lower part of the overall fining-upward TST or in the coarsening-upward and glauconite-depleted highstand systems tract(HST). In contrast to the TST, the HST is dominantly tide-imprinted, having shore-normal palaeocurrent direction. It appears that intensification of waves and weakening of tides during transgression favored strong rip currents generation, which had presumably caused severe damage to the sea coast and to the shell banks growing preferably at the necks of the rip current channels. Rapid lateral facies transitions in the shoreface deposits at the basal part of the TST suggest enhanced irregularity in the coastline, possibly because of the mega cusps indented upon it. Frequency and intensity of storms enhanced during periods of global warming caused the transgression of the Early Cretaceous Ukra Sea.
文摘Al-Nakheel beach is located northwest of Alexandria city,Egypt,along the Mediterranean coast.During the period from 1998 to 2003,seven detached breakwaters were constructed along Al-Nakheel beach to create a sheltered area for swimming.Unfortunately,the structures amplify rip currents,shoreline accretions,and erosions.The aim of this research is to track the variations of the rip currents within the study area and show the effects of the breakwaters on the shoreline.The research is based on the hydrodynamic and morphological data of the study area and uses the Delft3D hydrodynamical model combined with other data analysis tools to serve the model input.The data include measured sea-level observations in 2013,the ERA-interim wave datasets from 2015 to 2018 and wind data in 2018,bed morphologies,and Google Earth satellite images from 2010 to 2020.The model is calibrated on the basis of the available current measurements within the nearshore zone.Results show that the shoreline eroded at an average rate of about 0.9 m/yr.Moreover,pairs of vortices are formed behind the breakwaters with an average current velocity of 0.6 m/s.The predominant northwest waves induce rip currents on the leeside of the structures with velocities reaching 1.2 m/s,associated with the rip pulsation that extends offshore.The problem solution decision recommends the removal of the sand deposition on the leeside of the breakwaters by an average amount of 100000 m3/yr and the fencing of the safe area for swimming by a floating fence of 1000 m length and 65 m average width.
