With the development of urban culture in modern Shanghai,Shanghai style(海派Haipai)has gradually formed its own features.As a crucial component of urban culture,modern mass media reflects the essence of Shanghai-style...With the development of urban culture in modern Shanghai,Shanghai style(海派Haipai)has gradually formed its own features.As a crucial component of urban culture,modern mass media reflects the essence of Shanghai-style culture in its development.Its modernity,commerciality,openness,and innovation display the cultural trait of keeping up with the times.During the Xianfeng and Tongzhi periods of the Qing Dynasty(1851-1875),Suzhou Pingtan(苏州评弹)was introduced to Shanghai due to the influence of the Taiping Rebellion(太平天国战争),and began its Shanghai-style evolution in the context of modern mass media.On the one hand,modern newspapers and electronic media became crucial tools for the promotion of Suzhou Pingtan performers;on the other hand,the daily lives,performing careers,and public images of these performers became focal points of media attention.Mass media facilitated the Shanghai-style development of Suzhou Pingtan,and through it,changes in commercial awareness,performance styles,artistic expressions,musical innovation,and the celebrity-like performers all reflected the process of Shanghai-style development in Pingtan art.展开更多
The goal of the research is to study the mix and match of Qipao to reveal the dressing conditions and fashion during Republic Period in Shanghai by comprehensively using the research methods of history and aesthetics....The goal of the research is to study the mix and match of Qipao to reveal the dressing conditions and fashion during Republic Period in Shanghai by comprehensively using the research methods of history and aesthetics.The photographs of women at that time are the main materials to study on.Four aspects including Qipao combining with clothes,the hairstyle,footwear and accessories will be discussed.The conclusion will be drawn on the analysis of its mix and match,appearance,image identity and the group of people who liked to wear it.展开更多
The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discus...The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discussion of the original time,place and consumer group of Qipao fashion;2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao,3) deduction of the origin of the name Qipao.Besides,the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters,its production,consumption guarantee as well as its social backgrounds.The research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history,social psychology of clothing and design,and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s, which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia, Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly, the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly, the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters, production, consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly, since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early Republic Period, Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress, Chipau and Cheongsam and so on.展开更多
文摘With the development of urban culture in modern Shanghai,Shanghai style(海派Haipai)has gradually formed its own features.As a crucial component of urban culture,modern mass media reflects the essence of Shanghai-style culture in its development.Its modernity,commerciality,openness,and innovation display the cultural trait of keeping up with the times.During the Xianfeng and Tongzhi periods of the Qing Dynasty(1851-1875),Suzhou Pingtan(苏州评弹)was introduced to Shanghai due to the influence of the Taiping Rebellion(太平天国战争),and began its Shanghai-style evolution in the context of modern mass media.On the one hand,modern newspapers and electronic media became crucial tools for the promotion of Suzhou Pingtan performers;on the other hand,the daily lives,performing careers,and public images of these performers became focal points of media attention.Mass media facilitated the Shanghai-style development of Suzhou Pingtan,and through it,changes in commercial awareness,performance styles,artistic expressions,musical innovation,and the celebrity-like performers all reflected the process of Shanghai-style development in Pingtan art.
基金Shanghai Pujiang ProgramHumanities and Social Science Research Program Fund of Ministry of Education(No.05JA76002)+1 种基金the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University(No.NECT-05 -0422)Shanghai Leading Academic Discipline Project (No.B601)
文摘The goal of the research is to study the mix and match of Qipao to reveal the dressing conditions and fashion during Republic Period in Shanghai by comprehensively using the research methods of history and aesthetics.The photographs of women at that time are the main materials to study on.Four aspects including Qipao combining with clothes,the hairstyle,footwear and accessories will be discussed.The conclusion will be drawn on the analysis of its mix and match,appearance,image identity and the group of people who liked to wear it.
文摘The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discussion of the original time,place and consumer group of Qipao fashion;2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao,3) deduction of the origin of the name Qipao.Besides,the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters,its production,consumption guarantee as well as its social backgrounds.The research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history,social psychology of clothing and design,and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s, which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia, Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly, the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly, the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters, production, consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly, since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early Republic Period, Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress, Chipau and Cheongsam and so on.