Observing eddy dye patches induced by shear instabilities in the surf zone on a plane beach

The effects of surf zone eddy generated by alongshore currents on the deformation and transport of dye are still poorly understood,and related tracer release experiments are lacking.Therefore,a tracer release laboratory experiment was conducted under monochromatic,unidirectional incident waves with a large incident angle(30°)on a plane beach with a 1:100 slope in a large wave basin.A charge-coupled device suspended above the basin recorded the dye patch image.The evolution of eddy dye patch was observed and the transport and diffusion were analyzed based on the collected images.Subsequently,a linear instability numerical model was adopted to calculate the perturbation velocity field at the initial stage.The observation and image processing results show that surf zone eddy patches occurred and were separated from the original dye patches.Our numerical analysis results demonstrate that the structure of the perturbation velocity field is consistent with the experimental observations,and that the ejection of eddy patches shoreward or offshore may be ascribed to the double vortex.

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and the gradient of horizontal current velocity. A shear stress boundary condition at the wave trough level derived from the momentum balance equation combined with a no-slip condition at the sea bed were applied to solve the vertical structure of undertow. The turbulent eddy viscosity was assumed to be relevant to the breaking energy dissipation and linearly distributed over depth. The wave characteristics as inputs for the present model were obtained by solving an extended wave energy balance equation incorporating the surface roller effect. Numerical results showed generally good agreements with three series of experimental data for various bathymetries and wave conditions. Comparisons indicated that the formula proposed in this paper for the shear stress at wave trough level could reasonably improve the modeled undertow profiles especially outside the surf zone and a little distance shoreward of the breaking point, and revealed that the model performs well in simulating both vertical and horizontal distributions of undertow and is capable of providing hydrodynamic forcing for the cross-shore sediment transport.

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, the large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads to the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, Such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale model is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this paper has been used to study the propagation of the solitary wave in constant water depth and the shoaling of the non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. The model is based on large eddy simulation, and to track free-surface movements, the Tokyo University Modified Marker and Cell (TUMMAC) method is employed. In order to ensure the accuracy of each component of this wave mathematical model, several steps have been taken to verify calculated solutions; with either analytical solutions or experimental data. For non-breaking waves, very accurate results are obtained for a solitary wave propagating over a constant depth and on a beach. Application of the model to cnoidal wave breaking in the surf zone shows that the model results are in good agreement with analytical solution and experimental data. From the present model results, it can be seen that the turbulent eddy viscosity increases from the bottom to the water surface in surf zone. In the eddy viscosity curve, there is a turn-point obviously, dividing water depth into two parts, in the upper part, the eddy viscosity becomes very large near the wave breaking position.

On Radiation Boundary Conditions and Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone

The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.

Wave Height Distribution for Spilling Waves in and outside the Surf Zone

The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coastal area. The force of sediment transport is much more intense under breaking waves than under non-breaking waves. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principal- ly depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of con- servation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set- down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction. Flume experiments relating to the spilling wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. Advanced wave maker, data sampling de- vices and data processing system were utilized in the flume experiments with a slope covered by sands of different diameters to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is good.

Experimental study on pollutant movement in surf zone

The experiments on pollutant movement in surf zone were conducted on the two gentle beaches(with slope of 1:100 and 1:40, respectively), for diverse wave cases. The movement contours and direction of pollutants, under the action of regular and random waves with diverse wave amplitudes, were provided and studied in this paper. It was shown that, due to complicated hydrodynamics in surf zone, the pollutant movement state is quite complicated and different from that in pure current zone.

A DISCUSSION ON CURRENTS AND SUSPENDED LOAD TRANSPORT IN SURF ZONE

In this paper, the distribution characteristics of the breaking wave current and suspended load transport in the surf zone are discussed in main. Based on the measured data of the waves, the form of breaking wave, the breaking wave current and the sediment concentration of suspended load in the offshore surf zone near Nouakchott, the Islamic Republic of Mauritania, the author has analized the law governing the distribution of longshore current and sediment concentration of suspended load by means of statistical method, and presented a calculation method for the longshore sediment transport in offshore surf zone.

A numerical model with Stokes drift for pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach

This study examines the effects of Stokes drift on pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach both numerically and experimentally. Firstly, the numerical model is described. The wave-induced current is modeled using the concept of the radiation stress. The wave propagation model is based on the wave energy conservation equation. And the advective diffusion model including the Stokes drift is used to describe the pollutant transport in the surf zone. Model validation was achieved in this case versus an analytical solution for an instantaneous point source in a uniform horizontal flow. This study also describes a laboratory experiment on dye release in the surf zone over a plane beach. We examined the final inclination angle required by a continuously released pollutant plume to reach the shoreline under both cases, and transport velocities in the alongshore and cross- shore directions were estimated by linearly fitting the location of a dye-patch front at different time. Results show that this dye patch moved shoreward with an approximate speed of 0.05 m/s (0.017 m/s) between 10 s and 40 s and 0.001 m/s (0.011 m/s) after 40 s for Case 1 (2). This model was then used to simulate pollutant transport in the surf zone on a plane beach as reproduced in the current experiment. Comparisons between our dye transport experiment and numerical results were then also conducted;the data showed that the numerical results including Stokes drift agreed more closely with experimental results than those without it. The data showed that the pollutant was generally transported obviously shoreward in addition to its expected drift along the shore. We also suggest that Stokes drift plays an important role in pollutant movement in the surf zone, especially shoreward.

Measuring and modeling suspended sediment concentration profiles in the surf zone

Time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles across the surf zone were measured in a large-scale three-dimensional movable bed laboratory facility (LSTF:Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility). Sediment suspension under two different types of breaking waves, spilling and plunging breakers, was investigated. The magnitudes and shapes of the concentration profiles varied substantially at different locations across the surf zone, reflecting the different intensities of breaking-induced turbulence. Sediment sus- pension at the energetic plunging breaker-line was much more active, resulting in nearly homogeneous concentration profiles throughout most of the water column, as compared to the reminder of the surf zone and at the spilling breaker-line. Four suspended sediment concentration models were examined based on the LSTF data, including the mixing turbulence length approach, segment eddy viscosity model, breaking-induced wave-energy dissipation approach, and a combined breaking and turbulence length model developed by this study. Neglecting the breaking-induced turbulence and subsequent sediment mixing, suspended sediment concentration models failed to predict the across-shore variations of the sediment suspension, especially at the plunging breaker-line. Wave-energy dissipation rate provided an accurate method for estimating the intensity of turbulence generated by wave breaking. By incorporating the breaking-induced turbulence, the combined breaking and turbulence length model reproduced the across-shore variation of sediment suspension in the surf zone. The combined model reproduced the measured time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles reasonably well across the surf zone.

Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments

Surf-zone hydrodynamics forced by oblique wave shoaling and breaking on beach slopes were investigated.The results showed that in wave-basin experiments with incident angles in the range of 15°-30°,wave breaking was initiated at a breaker coefficient of around 0.67,which was significantly less than that predicted from empirical relations based on normally incident waves for a given beach slope and deep-water wave steepness.The measurements also showed that subsequent saturated breaking occurred at a breaker coefficient of around 0.47 that was inde-pendent of beach slope in the range of 1∶10 to 1∶100.This result is likely applicable to both oblique and normally incident waves.It is shown that the measured wave heights and longshore velocity profiles in wave-basin studies can be reasonably well predicted by theory with proper ad-justments to the process parameters.Best-match formulations were identified for quantifying bottom friction,eddy viscosity,and energy loss due to surface rollers.

波流共同作用下珊瑚礁海岸水动力特性数值模拟研究

为研究波流共同作用下珊瑚礁海岸附近水动力特性,本文基于雷诺平均的Navier-Stokes方程(Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations,RANS)建立了2维数值波流水槽,分别采用k-ωSST湍流模型模拟湍流和流体体积法(volume of fluid,VOF)追踪自由液面。模拟定常正向流和反向流,并与只考虑波浪的情形进行对比,重点分析了水流对沿礁波高、平均水位以及破碎带附近波生流、湍动能和雷诺剪切应力的影响。结果表明,相对于纯波浪的情况,正向流使礁坪波高和增水减小,反向流使礁坪波高和增水增大,增减幅度随水流流量的增加而增大,正向流影响下破碎带附近沿水深方向整个水体均为向岸流,反向流影响下破碎带附近波谷上方为向岸流下方为离岸流,波谷下方水流强度均随着流量的增加而增大;破碎带附近的湍动能和雷诺剪切应力的随着正向流流量的增加而减小,随着反向流流量的增加而增大。

风暴后海陵岛金沙滩恢复期床面高度变化分析

台风后海滩恢复初期的床面变化是海滩演变机理的重要研究内容。利用2021年8月17—22日现场观测获取的海陵岛金沙滩碎波带床面高度和波浪、潮汐数据,分析不同潮汐周期和波况下的床面高度变化特征,并采用连续小波变换分析床面高度的周期变化特征。结果表明:(1)风暴后海滩恢复期的波浪以卷破波为主,在较低潮位与强浪耦合下海滩迅速恢复,而在较高潮位与弱浪耦合下海滩恢复有限;(2)床面高度在“最高潮”时减小,在“次高潮”时增加,“次高潮”期间床面高度的周期变化更显著;(3)床面高程变化受多种水动力参数共同影响,观测点位置不同对潮位变化和波浪作用力反映不同,观测点位于外碎波带,床面高程受深水波高影响较大,在碎波带内受碎波带的波浪、潮位高低以及破碎类型影响较大。

A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.

A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%.

长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的种类组成及其多样性特征

为了进一步探明长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的种类组成和多样性特征,2006年7月-2007年6月的每月大潮期间,在长江口沿岸碎波带13个站位点的水深0.5-1.5m处,两人沿海岸平行方向步行拖曳小型拖网(1m×4m,网目1mm)采集仔稚鱼样本。周年共拖网397网次,采集到仔稚鱼49045尾。仔稚鱼隶属于31科,共84种,其中海洋性鱼类16种,河口性鱼类30种,洄游性鱼类4种,淡水性鱼类34种。洄游性鱼类刀鲚占总个体数的82.63%,为最优势种。仔稚鱼的物种数、个体数和丰度在冬季较低,以3月份最低,夏季最高。Margalef丰富度指数2006年11月—2007年4月相对较低,2006年10月最高。Shannon-Wiener多样性指数在10月最高,7月最低。Pielou均匀度指数全年较恒定,2006年7月和2007年6月相对较低。

长江口沿岸碎波带刀鲚仔稚鱼的数量分布

2007年5-10月,每月大潮期间在长江口沿岸碎波带13个站位用小型拖网各采样1次。195次拖网共采获刀鲚(Coilia nasus)仔稚鱼9358尾,体长范围为3.0～61.2mm,优势体长为6.0～25.0mm,以10.0～16.0mm的弯曲期和13.0～21.0mm的后弯曲期仔鱼为主。采获数量以7月最高,占总数55.0%,主要分布在长江口南支和北支上游,有3个站位(St.5、St.7、St.10)数量较高。其中有1个站位(St.7)刀鲚仔鱼的平均体长按月呈递增趋势,表明刀鲚仔稚鱼有利用沿岸碎波带作为早期生长场所的习性。根据刀鲚仔稚鱼在长江口沿岸碎波带分布和数量变动的调查结果,结合目前刀鲚成鱼资源量贫乏的现状,建议有关部门限制鳗苗定置网等作业,并加强对沿岸碎波带保育场的保护。

长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼种类组成和季节性变化

2004年3月-2005年3月,按月在长江口沿岸碎波带沿海岸平行方向,用小型拖网共采集到仔稚鱼6 892尾,属于23科,约50种。其中科的刀鲚占总个体数的55.19%,其后依次为银飘鱼(16.99%)、鱼(10.94%)、纹缟虾虎鱼(3.92%)、斑尾刺虾虎鱼(2.67%)、鳜(1.68%)、少鳞(1.68%)、普氏细棘虾虎鱼(0.99%)、弹涂鱼(0.99%)、黄鳍刺虾虎鱼(0.89%),这10种的个体数占据了总捕获个体数的96%。长江口沿岸碎波带中,既生活着洄游性鱼类和河口性鱼类仔稚鱼,还生活着近岸海水鱼类和淡水鱼类仔稚鱼。该水域仔稚鱼的种类和平均密度具有季节性变化趋势。根据在长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的出现和季节性变化规律,对该水域的仔稚鱼资源提出了保护措施。

春、夏季长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的种类组成

为了探明春、夏季长江口沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的种类组成和月变化,2004年和2005年5-8月,按月在长江口沿岸碎波带,用小型拖网(1 m×4 m,网目1 mm)共采集到仔稚鱼14 309尾,其中2004年5 921尾(平均密度109.6尾/网),2005年为8 388尾(平均密度186.4尾/网),属于24科,53属,约62种。2年均以5月份种数最少,但2004年6、7月种数最多,2005年以7月种数最多。2004年7月平均密度最大(311.9尾/网),5月最小(20.8尾/网),而2005年最大平均密度出现在6月(459.1尾/网),最小平均密度为8月(29.3尾/网)。2年春夏季的优势种前3位一致,均为刀鲚(Coilia na-sus)、银飘鱼(Pseudolaubuca sinensis)和斑尾刺虎鱼(Acanthogobius ommaturus)。长江口碎波带中,既栖息着洄游鱼类和河口性鱼类仔稚鱼,也栖息着沿岸和近海海水鱼类及淡水鱼类仔稚鱼。沿岸碎波带仔稚鱼的出现量与长江径流存在着正比关系。根据在长江口沿岸碎波带最优势种刀鲚仔稚鱼的出现和生长变化规律,建议不仅要限制深水张网和鳗苗定置网,还要充分治理沿岸生活污水排放,加强对沿岸碎波带保育场的保护与管理。

应用鱼类完整性指数(FAII)评价长江口沿岸碎波带健康状况

基于2006年11月—2007年10月在长江口的13个站点的仔稚鱼群落周年调查,探索了鱼类完整性指数(FAII)在河口水域鱼类栖息地环境评价中的应用。结果显示各站点周年的FAII值介于0—46之间,根据FAII等级划分标准,碎波带健康状况全年处于一般到极差的水平。根据周年的FAII值进行系统聚类将所有站点分为4组,位于水源保护区外侧(St.4,St.10)和西沙湿地公园附近(St.9)的几个站点的FAII值相对较高且相对稳定,而健康状况越差的站点(St.1,St.11—St.13)的FAII值越低且波动越大;从各站点的周年变化来看,FAII值夏季最高而冬季最低,这主要是由于夏季水温升高,大量洄游性种类在碎波带暂时性栖息。FAII与Margalef丰富度指的周年变化有一定的相似性,但与Shannon—Wiener多样性指数的变化却有很大的差异。上述结果表明碎波带仔稚鱼FAII值的季节性变化明显,人为干扰引起的碎波带周围环境的破坏对碎波带仔稚鱼的鱼类完整性下降有着重要影响。

潜堤对破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性影响数值分析

破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性分析是研究近岸地区泥沙输运机理和岸滩演变的关键。考虑潜堤修建的影响,对破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性开展研究。运用基于RANS方程的波浪数学模型,选取非线性涡粘性k-ε紊动传输模型,采用高精度PLIC-VOF方法追踪自由面,并用实验数据验证模型精度。计算分析结果表明,潜堤的修建改变了破波点的位置,破碎区至冲泻区内水动力特性随之变化,入射波波高H、波长L、堤顶水深R和堤顶宽度B是主要影响因素。在相同的入射波条件下,B/R增大,破碎区至冲泻区内出现的最大紊动动能值和最大紊动耗散值减小。用量纲一参数Re,Fr和St来描述破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性,随着RL/BH增大,波浪将在离岸较近处发生破碎,Re和Fr增大,St减小。