The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some f...The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.展开更多
The current academic research on the Dian Shi Zhai Pictorial founded in 1884 has been perfected,but there is very little research on the Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial,which can be said to be derived from Dian Shi Z...The current academic research on the Dian Shi Zhai Pictorial founded in 1884 has been perfected,but there is very little research on the Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial,which can be said to be derived from Dian Shi Zhai Pictorial terms of both content and form,and which was founded by the Haiist painter Wu Youru in 1890 in order to reward the increasing number of admirers,but it is still in the initial stage.Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial consisted of four parts:pictures of ladies in Shanghai costumes,news about current affairs,pictures of animals,and compilations of women,each of which was accompanied by the then popular notebooks,which were popular at the time among the then readers because of the matching of pictures with text and the mixing of narratives and discussions.This paper takes Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial as the main object,summarizes the existing literature about Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial,points out the deficiencies of the current research on this basis,and points out the development trend of Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial in the future research.展开更多
文摘The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.
文摘The current academic research on the Dian Shi Zhai Pictorial founded in 1884 has been perfected,but there is very little research on the Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial,which can be said to be derived from Dian Shi Zhai Pictorial terms of both content and form,and which was founded by the Haiist painter Wu Youru in 1890 in order to reward the increasing number of admirers,but it is still in the initial stage.Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial consisted of four parts:pictures of ladies in Shanghai costumes,news about current affairs,pictures of animals,and compilations of women,each of which was accompanied by the then popular notebooks,which were popular at the time among the then readers because of the matching of pictures with text and the mixing of narratives and discussions.This paper takes Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial as the main object,summarizes the existing literature about Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial,points out the deficiencies of the current research on this basis,and points out the development trend of Flying Shadow Pavilion Pictorial in the future research.
