Validity ranges of interfacial wave theories in a two-layer fluid system

In the present paper, we endeavor to accomplish a diagram, which demarcates the validity ranges for interfacial wave theories in a two-layer system, to meet the needs of design in ocean engineering. On the basis of the available solutions of periodic and solitary waves, we propose a guideline as principle to identify the validity regions of the interfacial wave theories in terms of wave period T, wave height H, upper layer thickness dl, and lower layer thick-ness d2, instead of only one parameter-water depth d as in the water surface wave circumstance. The diagram proposed here happens to be Le Mehaute＇s plot for free surface waves if water depth ratio r= d1/d2 approaches to infinity and the upper layer water density p1 to zero. On the contrary, the diagram for water surface waves can be used for two-layer interfacial waves if gravity acceleration g in it is replaced by the reduced gravity defined in this study under the condition of σ=（P2 - Pl）/P2 → 1.0 and r 〉 1.0. In the end, several figures of the validity ranges for various interfacial wavetheories in the two-layer fluid are given and compared with the results for surface waves.

波浪在潜堤上传播的非线性参数分析

利用完全非线性Boussinesq方程数值模型,通过与不规则波浪理论谱、物理模型实验进行了对比验证,证明了该模型模拟不规则波浪的有效性。应用该模型研究了不规则波浪在缓坡潜堤上传播时,波浪非线性参数的变化。波浪在经过缓坡潜堤过程中,波浪的不对称度有一个由负变正的过程,并且最小值出现在堤顶前部区域,最大值出现在堤顶后部区域。波浪的偏度在变浅区逐渐增大,在堤顶中部区域达到最大值,之后偏度在反变浅区逐渐减小到零附近。极值出现的位置可能是潜堤受波浪冲刷破坏比较严重的位置。基于几个典型位置波面过程线的波形变化及其波浪谱变化分析了这些参数变化的原因。分析了变浅区、反变浅区、堤顶区三个区域不对称度和偏度随Ursell数的变化关系,并给出了变浅区和反变浅区波浪的不对称度和偏度与Ursell数之间的经验公式,并与相关研究进行了对比。