The present study aims to examine the suitability of two commonly used assumptions that simplify modelling metoceanconditions for designing offshore wind turbines in the South China Sea (SCS). The first assumption ass...The present study aims to examine the suitability of two commonly used assumptions that simplify modelling metoceanconditions for designing offshore wind turbines in the South China Sea (SCS). The first assumption assumes thatjoint N-year extreme wind and wave events can be independently estimated and subsequently combined. The secondone assumes peak wind and waves can be modelled as occurring simultaneously during a tropical cyclone (TC) event.To better understand the potential TC activity, a set of 10000 years synthetic TC events are generated. The wind fieldmodel and the Mike 21 spectral wave model are employed to model the TC-induced hazards. Subsequently, theeffect of the assumptions is evaluated by analyzing the peak structural response of both monopile and semisubmersibleoffshore wind turbines during TC events. The results demonstrate that the examined assumptions are generally accurate.By assessing the implications of these assumptions, valuable insights are obtained, which can inform andimprove the modelling of TC-induced hazards in the SCS region.展开更多
The selection of wave force models will significantly impact the structural responses of floating wind turbines.In this study,comparisons of wave force model effects on the structural responses and fatigue loads of a ...The selection of wave force models will significantly impact the structural responses of floating wind turbines.In this study,comparisons of wave force model effects on the structural responses and fatigue loads of a semi-submersible floating wind turbine(SFWT)were conducted.Simulations were performed by employing the Morison equation(ME)with linear or second-order wave kinematics and potential flow theory(PFT)with first-or second-order wave forces.A comparison of regular waves,irregular waves,and coupled wind/waves analyses with the experimental data showed that many of the simulation results and experimental data are relatively consistent.However,notable discrepancies are found in the response amplitude operators for platform heave,tower base bending moment,and tension in mooring lines.PFT models give more satisfactory results of heave but more significant discrepan-cies in tower base bending moment than the ME models.In irregular wave analyses,low-frequency resonances were captured by PFT models with second-order difference-frequency terms,and high-frequency resonances were captured by the ME models or PFT models with second-order sum-frequency terms.These force models capture the response frequencies but do not reasonably predict the response amplitudes.The coupled wind/waves analyses showed more satisfactory results than the wave-only analyses.However,an important detail to note is that this satisfactory result is based on the overprediction of wind-induced responses.展开更多
The impulse waves induced by large-reservoir landslides can be characterized by a low Froude number.However,systematic research on predictive models specifically targeting the initial primary wave is lacking.Taking th...The impulse waves induced by large-reservoir landslides can be characterized by a low Froude number.However,systematic research on predictive models specifically targeting the initial primary wave is lacking.Taking the Shuipingzi 1#landslide that occurred in the Baihetan Reservoir area of the Jinsha River in China as an engineering example,this study established a large-scale physical model(with dimensions of 30 m×29 m×3.5 m at a scale of 1:150)and conducted scaled experiments on 3D landslide-induced impulse waves.During the process in which a sliding mass displaced and compressed a body of water to generate waves,the maximum initial wave amplitude was found to be positively correlated with the sliding velocity and the volume of the landslide.With the increase in the water depth,the wave amplitude initially increased and then decreased.The duration of pressure exertion by the sliding mass at its maximum velocity directly correlated with an elevated wave amplitude.Based on the theories of low-amplitude waves and energy conservation,while considering the energy conversion efficiency,a predictive model for the initial wave amplitude was derived.This model could fit and validate the functions of wavelength and wave velocity.The accuracy of the initial wave amplitude was verified using physical experiment data,with a prediction accuracy for the maximum initial wave amplitude reaching 90%.The conversion efficiency(η)directly determined the accuracy of the estimation formula.Under clear conditions for landslide-induced impulse wave generation,estimating the value ofηthrough analogy cases was feasible.This study has derived the landslide-induced impulse waves amplitude prediction formula from the standpoints of wave theory and energy conservation,with greater consideration given to the intrinsic characteristics in the formation process of landslide-induced impulse waves,thereby enhancing the applicability and extensibility of the formula.This can facilitate the development of empirical estimation methods for landslide-induced impulse waves toward universality.展开更多
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simula...Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.展开更多
Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communit...Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communities. However, due to the complex hydrological and meteorological interaction and uncertainties arising from different modeling systems, quantifying the uncertainties and improving the forecasting accuracy of modeled typhoon-induced waves remain challenging. This paper presents a practical approach to optimizing model-ensemble wave heights in an attempt to improve the accuracy of real-time typhoon wave forecasting. A locally weighted learning algorithm is used to obtain the weights for the wave heights computed by the WAVEWATCH III wave model driven by winds from four different weather models (model-ensembles). The optimized weights are subsequently used to calculate the resulting wave heights from the model-ensembles. The results show that the opti- mization is capable of capturing the different behavioral effects of the different weather models on wave generation. Comparison with the measurements at the selected wave buoy locations shows that the optimized weights, obtained through a training process, can significantly improve the accuracy of the forecasted wave heights over the standard mean values, particularly for typhoon-induced peak waves. The results also indicate that the algorithm is easy to imnlement and practieal for real-time wave forecasting.展开更多
A new theoretical model is formulated to describe internal movement mechanisms of the sand ridges and sand waves based on the momentum equation of a solid-liquid two-phase flow under a shear flow. Coupling this equati...A new theoretical model is formulated to describe internal movement mechanisms of the sand ridges and sand waves based on the momentum equation of a solid-liquid two-phase flow under a shear flow. Coupling this equation with two-dimensional shallow water equations and wave reflection-diffraction equation of mild slope, a two-dimensional coupling model is established and a validation is carried out by observed hydrogeology, tides,waves and sediment. The numerical results are compared with available observations. Satisfactory agreements are achieved. This coupling model is then applied to the Dongfang 1-1 Gas Field area to quantitatively predict the movement and evolution of submarine sand ridges and sand waves. As a result, it is found that the sand ridges and sand waves movement distance increases year by year, but the development trend is stable.展开更多
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model i...Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.展开更多
A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor.Wa...A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor.Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction.The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into account the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model’s wave boundary conditions.The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data.The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engineering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement (Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest corner of Half Moon Bay.展开更多
-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1...-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1980) are obtained. Some theoretical defects in Liu's model (1985) with consideration of current are not only found but also eliminated. More strict and accurate models are, therefore, presented in this paper.The calculation results and analysis in applying the models to actual wave field with consideration of bottom friction will be given in the following paper.展开更多
In order to facilitate engineering design and coastal flooding protection, the potential storm surge induced by a typhoon is studied.Using an unstructured mesh, a coupled model which combines the advanced circulation ...In order to facilitate engineering design and coastal flooding protection, the potential storm surge induced by a typhoon is studied.Using an unstructured mesh, a coupled model which combines the advanced circulation ( ADCIRC ) hydrodynamic model and simulating waves nearshore ( SWAN ) model is applied to analyze the storm surge and waves on the coast of Jiangsu Province.The verifications of wind velocity, tidal levels and wave height show that this coupling model performs well to reflect the characteristics of the water levels and waves in the studied region.Results show that the effect of radiation stress on storm surge is significant, especially in shallow areas such as the coast of Jiangsu Province and the Yangtze estuary.By running the coupled model, the simulated potential flooding results can be employed in coastal engineering applications in the Jiangsu coastal area, such as storm surge warnings and extreme water level predictions.展开更多
Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear...Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.展开更多
The LAGFD-WAM wave model is a third generation wave model. In the present paper the physical aspect of the model was shown in great detail including energy spectrum balance equation, complicated characteristics equati...The LAGFD-WAM wave model is a third generation wave model. In the present paper the physical aspect of the model was shown in great detail including energy spectrum balance equation, complicated characteristics equations and source functions.展开更多
In this paper the parameterizational approach of nonlinear source function and the implicit scheme of the model are discussed in detail. The matching problem is solved between time and space steps using the characteri...In this paper the parameterizational approach of nonlinear source function and the implicit scheme of the model are discussed in detail. The matching problem is solved between time and space steps using the characteristics inlaid scheme with very strong physical meaning. The computational comparison in typical winds shows some improvements to the WAM model. That the hindcast results of the model for typhoon cases are in good agreement with real data illustrates its applicability to wave forecast and engineering study.展开更多
The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This p...The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.展开更多
New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions. Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used t...New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions. Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance. Wave heights were compared in the four cases (with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra). The results agreed well with the measurements, especially for the broad directional spectra cases. The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding tenn. By introducing the diffraction term, the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed, especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases. Compared with the calculations without diffraction, the model with diffraction effect gave better results.展开更多
Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Pe...Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Peninsula. Ocean circulation and wind-wave models have traditionally been run separately, but recent researches have identified potentially important interactions between current and wave motions. The coupled tide-surge and the WAM wave models at the atmospheric boundary layer and bottom boundary layer around the Korea Peninsula are applied for the Typhoon Maemi (0314) event. Communication between the models is aehievod using MPI. Results are compared with coastal tide gauges and moored wave buoys and comparisons are also made between wave computations from the coupled model and the independent third generation wave models. Results suggest that applying the fide-surge-coupled model can be an effective means of obtaining wave and storm surge predictions simultaneously.展开更多
Gas leakage is an important consideration in natural systems that experience gas hydrate accumulation.A number of velocity models have been created to study hydrate-bearing sediments,including the BGTL theory,the weig...Gas leakage is an important consideration in natural systems that experience gas hydrate accumulation.A number of velocity models have been created to study hydrate-bearing sediments,including the BGTL theory,the weighted equation,the Wood equation,the K-T equation,and the effective medium theory.In previous work,we regarded water as the pore fluid,which meant its density and bulk modulus values were those of water.This approach ignores the presence of gas,which results in a biased calculation of the pore fluid's bulk modulus and density.To take into account the effect of gas on the elastic wave velocity,it is necessary to recalculate the bulk modulus and density of an equivalent medium.Thus,a high-pressure reactor device for simulating leakage systems was developed to establish the relationship between wave velocity and hydrate saturation in methane-flux mode.A comparison of the values calculated by the velocity model with the experimental data obtained in this study indicates that the effective medium theory(EMT,which considers gas effects)is more applicable than other models.For hydrate saturations of 10%–30%,the result ranges between EMT-B(homogenous gas distribution)and EMT-B(patchy gas distribution).For hydrate saturations of 30%–60%,the results are similar to those of the EMT-B(homogenous gas distribution)mode,whereas hydrate saturations of 60%–70%yield results similar to those of the EMT-A mode.For hydrate saturations greater than 80%,the experimental results are similar to those of the EMT-B mode.These results have significance for hydrate exploitation in the South China Sea.展开更多
One of the new methods for powering low-power electronic devices at sea is a wave energy harvesting system. In this method, piezoelectric material is employed to convert the mechanical energy of sea waves into electri...One of the new methods for powering low-power electronic devices at sea is a wave energy harvesting system. In this method, piezoelectric material is employed to convert the mechanical energy of sea waves into electrical energy. The advantage of this method is based on avoiding a battery charging system. Studies have been done on energy harvesting from sea waves, however, considering energy harvesting with random JONSWAP wave theory, then determining the optimum values of energy harvested is new. This paper does that by implementing the JONSWAP wave model, calculating produced power, and realistically showing that output power is decreased in comparison with the more simple Airy wave model. In addition, parameters of the energy harvester system are optimized using a simulated annealing algorithm, yielding increased produced power.展开更多
Flooding is a common natural disaster that causes enormous economic, social, and human losses. Of various flood routing methods, the dynamic wave model is one of the best approaches for the prediction of the character...Flooding is a common natural disaster that causes enormous economic, social, and human losses. Of various flood routing methods, the dynamic wave model is one of the best approaches for the prediction of the characteristics of floods during their propagations in natural rivers because all of the terms of the momentum equation are considered in the model. However, no significant research has been conducted on how the model sensitivity affects the accuracy of the downstream hydrograph. In this study, a comprehensive analysis of the input parameters 9f the dynamic wave model was performed through field applications in natural rivers and routing experiments in artificial channels using the graphical multi-parametric sensitivity analysis (GMPSA). The results indicate that the effects of input parameter errors on the output results are more significant in special situations, such as lower values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the characteristics of a design hydrograph, larger values of the skewness factor and/or time to peak on the channel characteristics, larger values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or the bed slope on the space step, and lower values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the time step and weighting factor.展开更多
The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investig...The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect (WABED), is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.展开更多
基金supported by the Guangdong Provincial Key Research and Development Program(Grant No.2022B0101100001).
文摘The present study aims to examine the suitability of two commonly used assumptions that simplify modelling metoceanconditions for designing offshore wind turbines in the South China Sea (SCS). The first assumption assumes thatjoint N-year extreme wind and wave events can be independently estimated and subsequently combined. The secondone assumes peak wind and waves can be modelled as occurring simultaneously during a tropical cyclone (TC) event.To better understand the potential TC activity, a set of 10000 years synthetic TC events are generated. The wind fieldmodel and the Mike 21 spectral wave model are employed to model the TC-induced hazards. Subsequently, theeffect of the assumptions is evaluated by analyzing the peak structural response of both monopile and semisubmersibleoffshore wind turbines during TC events. The results demonstrate that the examined assumptions are generally accurate.By assessing the implications of these assumptions, valuable insights are obtained, which can inform andimprove the modelling of TC-induced hazards in the SCS region.
基金funded by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.51809135)the Shandong Provincial Natural Science Foundation(No.ZR2018BEE 047)+1 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China–Shandong Joint Fund(No.U2006229)the SKL of HESS(No.HESS-1808).
文摘The selection of wave force models will significantly impact the structural responses of floating wind turbines.In this study,comparisons of wave force model effects on the structural responses and fatigue loads of a semi-submersible floating wind turbine(SFWT)were conducted.Simulations were performed by employing the Morison equation(ME)with linear or second-order wave kinematics and potential flow theory(PFT)with first-or second-order wave forces.A comparison of regular waves,irregular waves,and coupled wind/waves analyses with the experimental data showed that many of the simulation results and experimental data are relatively consistent.However,notable discrepancies are found in the response amplitude operators for platform heave,tower base bending moment,and tension in mooring lines.PFT models give more satisfactory results of heave but more significant discrepan-cies in tower base bending moment than the ME models.In irregular wave analyses,low-frequency resonances were captured by PFT models with second-order difference-frequency terms,and high-frequency resonances were captured by the ME models or PFT models with second-order sum-frequency terms.These force models capture the response frequencies but do not reasonably predict the response amplitudes.The coupled wind/waves analyses showed more satisfactory results than the wave-only analyses.However,an important detail to note is that this satisfactory result is based on the overprediction of wind-induced responses.
基金The authors would like thank LI Renjiang and HU Bin from the China Three Gorges Corporation for providing many valuable suggestions for the establishment of the physical models.This work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.U23A2045)the China Three Gorges Corporation(YM(BHT)/(22)022)the Scientific Research Project of Chongqing Municipal Bureau of Planning and Natural Resources(Evaluation and Reinforcement Technology of Surge Disaster Caused by High and Steep Dangerous Rocks in Chongqing Reservoir Area of the Three Gorges Project,KJ-2023046).
文摘The impulse waves induced by large-reservoir landslides can be characterized by a low Froude number.However,systematic research on predictive models specifically targeting the initial primary wave is lacking.Taking the Shuipingzi 1#landslide that occurred in the Baihetan Reservoir area of the Jinsha River in China as an engineering example,this study established a large-scale physical model(with dimensions of 30 m×29 m×3.5 m at a scale of 1:150)and conducted scaled experiments on 3D landslide-induced impulse waves.During the process in which a sliding mass displaced and compressed a body of water to generate waves,the maximum initial wave amplitude was found to be positively correlated with the sliding velocity and the volume of the landslide.With the increase in the water depth,the wave amplitude initially increased and then decreased.The duration of pressure exertion by the sliding mass at its maximum velocity directly correlated with an elevated wave amplitude.Based on the theories of low-amplitude waves and energy conservation,while considering the energy conversion efficiency,a predictive model for the initial wave amplitude was derived.This model could fit and validate the functions of wavelength and wave velocity.The accuracy of the initial wave amplitude was verified using physical experiment data,with a prediction accuracy for the maximum initial wave amplitude reaching 90%.The conversion efficiency(η)directly determined the accuracy of the estimation formula.Under clear conditions for landslide-induced impulse wave generation,estimating the value ofηthrough analogy cases was feasible.This study has derived the landslide-induced impulse waves amplitude prediction formula from the standpoints of wave theory and energy conservation,with greater consideration given to the intrinsic characteristics in the formation process of landslide-induced impulse waves,thereby enhancing the applicability and extensibility of the formula.This can facilitate the development of empirical estimation methods for landslide-induced impulse waves toward universality.
基金The Key Technology Program,the Ministry of Education of China under contract No.104061
文摘Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.
基金supported by the European Commission within FP7-THEME 6(Grant No.244104)the Natural Environment Research Council(NERC)of the UK(Grant No.NE/J005541/1)the Ministry of Science and Technology(MOST)of Taiwan(Grant No.MOST 104-2221-E-006-183)
文摘Accurately forecasting ocean waves during typhoon events is extremely important in aiding the mitigation and minimization of their potential damage to the coastal infrastructure, and the protection of coastal communities. However, due to the complex hydrological and meteorological interaction and uncertainties arising from different modeling systems, quantifying the uncertainties and improving the forecasting accuracy of modeled typhoon-induced waves remain challenging. This paper presents a practical approach to optimizing model-ensemble wave heights in an attempt to improve the accuracy of real-time typhoon wave forecasting. A locally weighted learning algorithm is used to obtain the weights for the wave heights computed by the WAVEWATCH III wave model driven by winds from four different weather models (model-ensembles). The optimized weights are subsequently used to calculate the resulting wave heights from the model-ensembles. The results show that the opti- mization is capable of capturing the different behavioral effects of the different weather models on wave generation. Comparison with the measurements at the selected wave buoy locations shows that the optimized weights, obtained through a training process, can significantly improve the accuracy of the forecasted wave heights over the standard mean values, particularly for typhoon-induced peak waves. The results also indicate that the algorithm is easy to imnlement and practieal for real-time wave forecasting.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51079095the Science Fund for Creative Research Groups of the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51021004
文摘A new theoretical model is formulated to describe internal movement mechanisms of the sand ridges and sand waves based on the momentum equation of a solid-liquid two-phase flow under a shear flow. Coupling this equation with two-dimensional shallow water equations and wave reflection-diffraction equation of mild slope, a two-dimensional coupling model is established and a validation is carried out by observed hydrogeology, tides,waves and sediment. The numerical results are compared with available observations. Satisfactory agreements are achieved. This coupling model is then applied to the Dongfang 1-1 Gas Field area to quantitatively predict the movement and evolution of submarine sand ridges and sand waves. As a result, it is found that the sand ridges and sand waves movement distance increases year by year, but the development trend is stable.
基金Supported by the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars (No 40425015)the Knowledge Innovation Programs of the Chinese Academy of Sciences (Nos KZCX1-YW-12 and KZCX2-YW-201)
文摘Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.
基金US Army Research and Development Center (EROC), Coastal Inlet Research Program (CIRP),Vicksbarg, MS, USA.
文摘A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor.Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction.The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into account the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model’s wave boundary conditions.The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data.The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engineering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement (Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest corner of Half Moon Bay.
基金Project supported by the State Natural Science Fund
文摘-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1980) are obtained. Some theoretical defects in Liu's model (1985) with consideration of current are not only found but also eliminated. More strict and accurate models are, therefore, presented in this paper.The calculation results and analysis in applying the models to actual wave field with consideration of bottom friction will be given in the following paper.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.51209040,51279134)the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province(No.BK2012341)+1 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(No.SJLX_0087)the Research Fund of Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute(No.Y213012)
文摘In order to facilitate engineering design and coastal flooding protection, the potential storm surge induced by a typhoon is studied.Using an unstructured mesh, a coupled model which combines the advanced circulation ( ADCIRC ) hydrodynamic model and simulating waves nearshore ( SWAN ) model is applied to analyze the storm surge and waves on the coast of Jiangsu Province.The verifications of wind velocity, tidal levels and wave height show that this coupling model performs well to reflect the characteristics of the water levels and waves in the studied region.Results show that the effect of radiation stress on storm surge is significant, especially in shallow areas such as the coast of Jiangsu Province and the Yangtze estuary.By running the coupled model, the simulated potential flooding results can be employed in coastal engineering applications in the Jiangsu coastal area, such as storm surge warnings and extreme water level predictions.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.42006176,42330406,U1706220,41901006)the Basic Research Project of the Science and Technology Innovation Development Program of in Yantai(No.2022JCYJ028)。
文摘Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.
文摘The LAGFD-WAM wave model is a third generation wave model. In the present paper the physical aspect of the model was shown in great detail including energy spectrum balance equation, complicated characteristics equations and source functions.
文摘In this paper the parameterizational approach of nonlinear source function and the implicit scheme of the model are discussed in detail. The matching problem is solved between time and space steps using the characteristics inlaid scheme with very strong physical meaning. The computational comparison in typical winds shows some improvements to the WAM model. That the hindcast results of the model for typhoon cases are in good agreement with real data illustrates its applicability to wave forecast and engineering study.
文摘The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.
基金This study was supported by the National Key Basic Research Project of China (Grant No2002CB412403)the Research Project in Science and Technology Commission of Shanghai Municipality,China (Grant No04DZ12049)
文摘New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions. Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance. Wave heights were compared in the four cases (with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra). The results agreed well with the measurements, especially for the broad directional spectra cases. The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding tenn. By introducing the diffraction term, the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed, especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases. Compared with the calculations without diffraction, the model with diffraction effect gave better results.
文摘Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Peninsula. Ocean circulation and wind-wave models have traditionally been run separately, but recent researches have identified potentially important interactions between current and wave motions. The coupled tide-surge and the WAM wave models at the atmospheric boundary layer and bottom boundary layer around the Korea Peninsula are applied for the Typhoon Maemi (0314) event. Communication between the models is aehievod using MPI. Results are compared with coastal tide gauges and moored wave buoys and comparisons are also made between wave computations from the coupled model and the independent third generation wave models. Results suggest that applying the fide-surge-coupled model can be an effective means of obtaining wave and storm surge predictions simultaneously.
基金supported financially by the National Key R&D Program of China(No.2017YFC0307600)the Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology(No.QNLM2016ORP0207)+3 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.41906067)the China Postdoctoral Science Foundation(No.2018M632634)the Natural Science Foundation of Shandong Province of China(No.ZR2019BD051)the Marine Geological Survey Program(Nos.DD20190221 and DD20190231)。
文摘Gas leakage is an important consideration in natural systems that experience gas hydrate accumulation.A number of velocity models have been created to study hydrate-bearing sediments,including the BGTL theory,the weighted equation,the Wood equation,the K-T equation,and the effective medium theory.In previous work,we regarded water as the pore fluid,which meant its density and bulk modulus values were those of water.This approach ignores the presence of gas,which results in a biased calculation of the pore fluid's bulk modulus and density.To take into account the effect of gas on the elastic wave velocity,it is necessary to recalculate the bulk modulus and density of an equivalent medium.Thus,a high-pressure reactor device for simulating leakage systems was developed to establish the relationship between wave velocity and hydrate saturation in methane-flux mode.A comparison of the values calculated by the velocity model with the experimental data obtained in this study indicates that the effective medium theory(EMT,which considers gas effects)is more applicable than other models.For hydrate saturations of 10%–30%,the result ranges between EMT-B(homogenous gas distribution)and EMT-B(patchy gas distribution).For hydrate saturations of 30%–60%,the results are similar to those of the EMT-B(homogenous gas distribution)mode,whereas hydrate saturations of 60%–70%yield results similar to those of the EMT-A mode.For hydrate saturations greater than 80%,the experimental results are similar to those of the EMT-B mode.These results have significance for hydrate exploitation in the South China Sea.
文摘One of the new methods for powering low-power electronic devices at sea is a wave energy harvesting system. In this method, piezoelectric material is employed to convert the mechanical energy of sea waves into electrical energy. The advantage of this method is based on avoiding a battery charging system. Studies have been done on energy harvesting from sea waves, however, considering energy harvesting with random JONSWAP wave theory, then determining the optimum values of energy harvested is new. This paper does that by implementing the JONSWAP wave model, calculating produced power, and realistically showing that output power is decreased in comparison with the more simple Airy wave model. In addition, parameters of the energy harvester system are optimized using a simulated annealing algorithm, yielding increased produced power.
文摘Flooding is a common natural disaster that causes enormous economic, social, and human losses. Of various flood routing methods, the dynamic wave model is one of the best approaches for the prediction of the characteristics of floods during their propagations in natural rivers because all of the terms of the momentum equation are considered in the model. However, no significant research has been conducted on how the model sensitivity affects the accuracy of the downstream hydrograph. In this study, a comprehensive analysis of the input parameters 9f the dynamic wave model was performed through field applications in natural rivers and routing experiments in artificial channels using the graphical multi-parametric sensitivity analysis (GMPSA). The results indicate that the effects of input parameter errors on the output results are more significant in special situations, such as lower values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the characteristics of a design hydrograph, larger values of the skewness factor and/or time to peak on the channel characteristics, larger values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or the bed slope on the space step, and lower values of Manning's roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the time step and weighting factor.
基金supported by the Program for New Century Excellent Talents in Universities (Grant No. NCET-07-0255)
文摘The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect (WABED), is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.