The comparison of altimeter retrieval algorithms of the wind speed and the wave period

With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave period.By using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wave period algorithms are validated.Based on theoretical argument and the concept of wave age,a semi-empirical algorithm for the wave period is also proposed,which has the wave-period dimension,and explicitly demonstrates the relationships between the wave period and the other variables.It is found that Ku and C band data should be applied simultaneously in order to improve either wind speed or wave period algorithms.The dual-band algorithms proposed by Chen et al.(2002) for the wind speed and Quilfen et al.(2004) for the wave period perform best in terms of a root mean square error in the practical applications.

Comparison of retrieving methods of ocean wave periods from satellite altimeter with buoy measurements

For validating the results of retrieved mean wave period, four empirical algorithms established previously are introduced. Based on the data of over five years derived from TOPEX satellite altimeter for the entire East China Sea, ocean wave periods were calculated and statistical comparison among them was performed. The retrieved mean wave period 〈T〉 obtained with our new distribution parameters showed better agreement with the wave period TB measured by buoy than that calculated by other three algorithms. The difference between the mean values of 〈T〉 and that of TB is 0.16 s and the RMSE （root mean square error） of 〈T〉 is the lowest value （0.48）.

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter derived wave period with ocean buoy data in the East China Sea and South China Sea

Altimeter wave period data obtained from continental shelf seas are analyzed in this paper. Empirical models are introduced for zero up-crossing and peak wave period calculation with TOPEX/POSEIDON data. Their performances are assessed using independent validation dataset in four sites in the open ocean of China. To provide more accurate wave period estimation, new coefficients are applied to reliable in situ data. Comparison of our estimated the wave periods with new linear calibrations based on independent data of Seapac 2100 deployed in the East China Sea and South China Sea showed that the accuracy was improved over estimates determined from earlier empirical models. Regional analysis indicated that the wave period model works better under wind sea condition.

Wave Period Distributions in Non-Gaussian Mixed Sea States

The wave period probability densities in non-Gaussian mixed sea states are calculated by utilizing a transformed Gaussian process method. The transformation relating the non-Gaussian process and the original Gaussian process is obtained based on the equivalence of the level up-crossing rates of the two processes. A saddle point approximation procedure is applied for calculating the level up-crossing rates in this study. The accuracy and efficiency of the transformed Gaussian process method are validated by comparing the results predicted by using the method with those predicted by the Monte Carlo simulation method.

Joint Distribution of Wave Periods and Rate of Change of Wave Surface Elevation

The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering, especially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking. This paper gives a kind of joint distribution of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-order to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory. For the first time, the distribution density function of wave periods determined by peaks is provided, and the conclusion is drawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution.

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai （37°27.6′N, 122°15.1′ E）, China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths （v=0.3-3.5） is within the range of 0.9686 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins （1975） and Sun （1988） distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.

Estimation of peak wave period from surface texture motion in videos

Wave information retrieval from videos captured by a single camera has been increasingly applied in marine observation.However,when the camera observes ocean waves at low grazing angles,the accurate extraction of wave information from videos will be affected by the interference of the fine ripples on the sea surface.To solve this problem,this study develops a method for estimating peak wave periods from videos captured at low grazing angles.The method extracts the motion of the sea surface texture from the video and obtains the peak wave period via the spectral analysis.The calculation results captured from real-world videos are compared with those obtained from X-band radar inversion and tracking buoy movement,with maximum deviations of 8%and 14%,respectively.The analysis of the results shows that the peak wave period of the method has good stability.In addition,this paper uses a pinhole camera model to convert the displacement of the texture from pixel height to actual height and performs moving average filtering on the displacement of the texture,thus conducting a preliminary exploration of the inversion of significant wave height.This study helps to extend the application of sea surface videos.

Propagation Dynamics of Forced Pulsating Waves for a Time Periodic Lotka-Volterra Cooperative System with Nonlocal Effects in Shifting Habitats

In this paper, we will concern the existence, asymptotic behaviors and stability of forced pulsating waves for a Lotka-Volterra cooperative system with nonlocal effects under shifting habitats. By using the alternatively-coupling upper-lower solution method, we establish the existence of forced pulsating waves, as long as the shifting speed falls in a finite interval where the endpoints are obtained from KPP-Fisher speeds. The asymptotic behaviors of the forced pulsating waves are derived. Finally, with proper initial, the stability of the forced pulsating waves is studied by the squeezing technique based on the comparison principle.

Bifurcations, Analytical and Non-Analytical Traveling Wave Solutions of (2 + 1)-Dimensional Nonlinear Dispersive Boussinesq Equation

For the (2 + 1)-dimensional nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, by using the bifurcation theory of planar dynamical systems to study its corresponding traveling wave system, the bifurcations and phase portraits of the regular system are obtained. Under different parametric conditions, various sufficient conditions to guarantee the existence of analytical and non-analytical solutions of the singular system are given by using singular traveling wave theory. For certain special cases, some explicit and exact parametric representations of traveling wave solutions are derived such as analytical periodic waves and non-analytical periodic cusp waves. Further, two-dimensional wave plots of analytical periodic solutions and non-analytical periodic cusp wave solutions are drawn to visualize the dynamics of the equation.

Diversity of Rogue Wave Solutions to the (1+1)-Dimensional Boussinesq Equation

A periodically homoclinic solution and some rogue wave solutions of (1+1)-dimensional Boussinesq equation are obtained via the limit behavior of parameters and different polynomial functions. Besides, the mathematics reasons for different spatiotemporal structures of rogue waves are analyzed using the extreme value theory of the two-variables function. The diversity of spatiotemporal structures not only depends on the disturbance parameter u0 but also has a relationship with the other parameters c0, α, β.

The difference between the joint probability distributions of apparent wave heights and periods and individual wave heights and periods

The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts.

Evolution characteristics and quantization of wave period variation for breaking waves

The wave parameters(the wave height and period)are important environmental factors in the ocean engineering design.General numerical wave models,such as SWAN and WAVEWATCH,are widely employed to simulate the wave conditions.However,significant differences were observed between the measurement and the simulation for both the wave height and period,which asks for wave model improvements.The differences are mainly due to the uncertainty of parameterizing various physical processes,including the wave breaking.The energy transfer and loss during the wave breaking involves an important physical mechanism,and the energy dissipation and the period changes are not well studied.This paper studies the deep and shallow water wave breaking using the wave focusing and the slope platform random wave experiments.The characteristics of the wave periods under different conditions are studied in detail,including the period variation.The results show that the periods change during the wave propagation and breaking processes.The energy transfer caused by the strongly nonlinear interaction between the wave components,as well as the energy loss caused by the wave breaking,are the primary causes.The corresponding relationships are established by fitting the data.For the deep water breaking waves induced by the wave focusing,the spectrally averaged period(SAP)increases,and a positive correlation between the rate of change and the wave steepness is found.In the shallow water,the nonlinear interactions are stronger than in the deep water,the wave periods are significantly reduced,and a negative correlation between the rate of change and a nonlinear parameter is found.The inherent mechanism of the period variation is analyzed based on the energy spectrum distribution variations.The contributions of the nonlinear interactions and the wave breaking to the SAP evolution are discussed.

Applicability evaluation of ERA5 wind and wave reanalysis data in the South China Sea

Wind and wave data are essential in climatological and engineering design applications.In this study,data from 15 buoys located throughout the South China Sea(SCS)were used to evaluate the ERA5 wind and wave data.Applicability assessment are beneficial for gaining insight into the reliability of the ERA5 data in the SCS.The bias range between the ERA5 and observed wind-speed data was-0.78-0.99 m/s.The result indicates that,while the ERA5 wind-speed data underestimation was dominate,the overestimation of such data existed as well.Additionally,the ERA5 data underestimated annual maximum wind-speed by up to 38%,with a correlation coefficient>0.87.The bias between the ERA5 and observed significant wave height(SWH)data varied from-0.24 to 0.28 m.And the ERA5 data showed positive SWH bias,which implied a general underestimation at all locations,except those in the Beibu Gulf and centralwestern SCS,where overestimation was observed.Under extreme conditions,annual maximum SWH in the ERA5 data was underestimated by up to 30%.The correlation coefficients between the ERA5 and observed SWH data at all locations were greater than 0.92,except in the central-western SCS(0.84).The bias between the ERA5 and observed mean wave period(MWP)data varied from-0.74 to 0.57 s.The ERA5 data showed negative MWP biases implying a general overestimation at all locations,except for B1(the Beibu Gulf)and B7(the northeastern SCS),where underestimation was observed.The correlation coefficient between the ERA5 and observed MWP data in the Beibu Gulf was the smallest(0.56),and those of other locations fluctuated within a narrow range from 0.82 to 0.90.The intercomparison indicates that during the analyzed time-span,the ERA5 data generally underestimated wind-speed and SWH,but overestimated MWP.Under non-extreme conditions,the ERA5 wind-speed and SWH data can be used with confidence in most regions of the SCS,except in the central-western SCS.

Modified Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods

The modified versions of the linear theoretical model of Longuet-Higgins （1983） are derived in this work and also compared with the laboratory experiments carried out in MAR1NTEK. The main feature of modifications is to replace the mean frequency in the formulation with the peak frequency of the wave spectrum. These two alternative forms of joint distributions are checked in three typical random sea states characterized by the initial wave steepness. In order to further explore the properties ＆these models, the associated marginal distributions of wave heights and wave periods are also researched with the observed statistics and some encouraging results are obtained.

Relationship Between Mean Length and MeanPeriod of Wind Waves

The mean wavelength of ocean waves is an important environmental parameter in ocean engineering. Owing to the difficulty in its measurement, it is usually estimated from the mean wave period according to the theoretical relationship between the two wave parameters. However, the relationships that have been proposed are not very satisfactory. In this paper, some suggestions are made for improvement of the data analysis method by which the mean wavelength is estimated from surface elevation records. Laboratory experiments are conducted in a wind-wave flume, and a new relationship between the mean wavelength and mean wave period is obtained by the application of the improved data analysis method. The new relationship deviates from that of Xu et al. （1999） while it is very close to the one proposed by Kinsman （1965）, although the last one is theoretically deficient.

Asymptotic Calculation of Wave Period Statistics in Non-Gaussian Mixed Sea

This article concerns the calculation of the wave period probability densities in non-Gaussiau mixed sea states. The calculations are carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method which is a novel approach to the calculation of wave period probability densities. Since all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, the approach avoids long time-domain sinmlations. The accuracy and efficiency of the asymptotic analysis method for calculating the wave period probability densities are validated by comparing the results predicted using the method with those predicted by using the Monte-Carlo simulation （MCS） method.

Solitary Wave and Periodic Wave Solutions for the Relativistic Toda Lattices

In this work, an adaptation of the tanh/tan-method that is discussed usually in the nonlinear partial differential equations is presented to solve nonlinear polynomial differential-difference equations. As a concrete example,several solitary wave and periodic wave solutions for the chain which is related to the relativistic Toda lattice are derived.Some systems of the differential-difference equations that can be solved using our approach are listed and a discussion is given in conclusion.

New Periodic Wave Solutions to Generalized Klein-Gordon and Benjamin Equations

By making use of extended mapping method and auxiliary equation for finding new periodic wave solu tions of nonlinear evolution equations in mathematical physics, we obtain some new periodic wave solutions for generalized Klein-Cordon equation and Benjamin equation, which cannot be found in previous work. This method also can be used to find new periodic wave solutions of other nonlinear evolution equations.

Binary Bell Polynomials,Bilinear Approach to Exact Periodic Wave Solutions of(2+l)-Dimensional Nonlinear Evolution Equations

In the present letter, we get the appropriate bilinear forms of （2 ＋ 1）-dimensional KdV equation, extended （2 ＋ 1）-dimensional shallow water wave equation and （2 ＋ 1）-dimensional Sawada -Kotera equation in a quick and natural manner, namely by appling the binary Bell polynomials. Then the Hirota direct method and Riemann theta function are combined to construct the periodic wave solutions of the three types nonlinear evolution equations. And the corresponding figures of the periodic wave solutions are given. Furthermore, the asymptotic properties of the periodic wave solutions indicate that the soliton solutions can be derived from the periodic wave solutions.

Periodic oscillation and fine structure of wedge-induced oblique detonation waves

An oblique detonation wave for a Mach 7 inlet flow over a long enough wedge of 30 turning angle is simulated numerically using Euler equation and one-step rection model.The fifth-order WENO scheme is adopted to capture the shock wave.The numerical results show that with the compression of the wedge wall the detonation wave front structure is divided into three sections：the ZND model-like strcuture,single-sided triple point structure and dual-headed triple point strucuture.The first structure is the smooth straight,and the second has the characteristic of the triple points propagating dowanstream only with the same velocity,while the dual-headed triple point structure is very complicated.The detonation waves facing upstream and downstream propagate with different velocities,in which the periodic collisions of the triple points cause the oscillation of the detonation wave front.This oscillation process has temporal and spatial periodicity.In addition,the triple point trace are recorded to obtain different cell structures in three sections.