Wave-soil-pipe coupling effect on the untrenched pipeline stability on sands is for the first time investigated experimentally. Tests are conducted in the U-shaped water tunnel, which generates an oscillatory how, sim...Wave-soil-pipe coupling effect on the untrenched pipeline stability on sands is for the first time investigated experimentally. Tests are conducted in the U-shaped water tunnel, which generates an oscillatory how, simulating the water particle movements with periodically changing direction under the wave action. Characteristic times and phases during the instability process are revealed. Linear relationship between Froude number and non-dimensional pipe weight is obtained. Effects of initial embedment and loading history are observed. Test results between the wavesoil-pipe interaction and pipe-soil interaction under cyclic mechanical loading are compared. The mechanism is briefly discussed. For applying in the practical design, more extensive and systematic investigations are needed.展开更多
On the basis of the measurement data pertaining to waves, current, and sediment in February 2012 in the mouth bar of the Modaomen Estuary, the Soulsby formulae with an iterative method are applied to calculating botto...On the basis of the measurement data pertaining to waves, current, and sediment in February 2012 in the mouth bar of the Modaomen Estuary, the Soulsby formulae with an iterative method are applied to calculating bottom shear stresses (BSS) and their effect on a sediment resuspension. Swell induced BSS have been found to be the most important part of the BSS. In this study, the correlation coefficient between a wavecurrent shear stress and SSC is 0.86, and that between current shear stresses and SSC is only 0.40. The peaks of the SSC are consistent with the height and the BSS of the swell. The swell is the main mechanism for the sediment re-suspension, and the tidal current effect on sediment re-suspension is small. The peaks of the SSC are centered on the high tidal level, and the flood tide enhances the wave shear stresses and the SSC near the bottom. The critical shear stress for sediment re-suspension at the observation station is between 0.20 and 0.30 N/m2. Tidal currents are too weak to stir up the bottom sediment into the flow, but a WCI (wave-current interaction) is strong enough to re-suspend the coarse sediment.展开更多
When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction syste...When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction system,while dynamic wave pressures provide a vertical loading in the system.However,the bottom shear stresses have been ignored in most previous studies in the past.In this study,the effects of the bottom shear stresses on the dynamic response in a seabed of finite thickness under wave loading will be examined,based on Biot's dynamic poro-elastic theory.In the model,an "u-p" approximation will be adopted instead of quasi-static model that have been used in most previous studies.Numerical results indicate that the bottom shear stresses has certain influences on the wave-induced seabed dynamic response.Furthermore,wave and soil characteristics have considerable influences on the relative difference of seabed response between the previous model(without shear stresses) and the present model(with shear stresses).As shown in the parametric study,the relative differences between two models could up to 10% of p0,depending on the amplitude of bottom shear stresses.展开更多
In this paper, we conducted a numerical analysis on the bottom-hinged flap-type Wave Energy Convertor (WEC). The basic model, implemented through the study using ANSYS-AQWA, has been validated by a three-dimensional p...In this paper, we conducted a numerical analysis on the bottom-hinged flap-type Wave Energy Convertor (WEC). The basic model, implemented through the study using ANSYS-AQWA, has been validated by a three-dimensional physical model of a pitching vertical cylinder. Then, a systematic parametric assessment has been performed on stiffness, damping, and WEC direction against an incoming wave rose, resulting in an optimized flap-type WEC for a specific spot in the Persian Gulf. Here, stiffness is tuned to have a near-resonance condition considering the wave rose, while damping is modified to capture the highest energy for each device direction. Moreover, such sets of specifications have been checked at different directions to present the best combination of stiffness, damping, and device heading. It has been shown that for a real condition, including different wave heights, periods, and directions, it is very important to implement the methodology introduced here to guarantee device performance.展开更多
Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a genera...Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green's second identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations currently in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.展开更多
A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Ha...A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Hamiltonian formulation for irrotational motions. The bottom topography consists of two components the slowly varying component which satisfies the mild-slope approximation, and the fast varying component with wavelengths on the order of the surface wavelength but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter describing the mild-slope condition. The theory is more widely applicable and contains as special cases the following famous mild-slope type equations: the classical mild-Slope equation, Kirby's extended mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. Finally, good agreement between the classic experimental data concerning Bragg reflection and the present numerical results is observed.展开更多
The hydrodynamic performance of a bottom-hinged flap wave energy converter (WEC) is investigated through a frequency domain numerical model. The numerical model is verified through a two-dimensional analytic solutio...The hydrodynamic performance of a bottom-hinged flap wave energy converter (WEC) is investigated through a frequency domain numerical model. The numerical model is verified through a two-dimensional analytic solution, as well as the qualitative analysis on the dynamic response of avibrating system. The concept of "optimum density" of the bottom-hinged flap is proposed, and its analytic expression is derived as well. The frequency interval in which the optimum density exists is also obtained. The analytic expression of the optimum linear damping coefficient is obtained by a bottom-hinged WEC. Some basic dynamic properties involving natural period, excitation moment, pitch amplitude, and optimum damping coefficient are analyzed and discussed in detail. In addition, this paper highlights the analysis of effects on the conversion performance of the device exerted by some important parameters. The results indicate that "the optimum linear damping period of 5.0 s" is the most ideal option in the short wave sea states with the wave period below 6.0 s. Shallow water depth, large flap thickness and low flap density are advised in the practical design of the device in short wave sea states in order to maximize power capture. In the sea state with water depth of 5.0 m and wave period of 5.0 s, the results of parametric optimization suggest a flap with the width of 8.0 m, thickness of 1.6 m, and with the density as little as possible when the optimum power take-off (PTO) damping coefficient is adopted.展开更多
- In this paper, an engineering method is employed to calculate the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the mat of the submersible platform under Froude-Krylov hypothesis. According to some model tests, appropriate...- In this paper, an engineering method is employed to calculate the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the mat of the submersible platform under Froude-Krylov hypothesis. According to some model tests, appropriate diffraction coefficients are selected. And the results of the formulae given in the paper agree satisfactorily with those experimental data now available. The proposed computational method is effective and convenient to use in evaluating the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the mat. An exmaple is also given in this paper. Finally, the effects of the vertical wave force on the platorm's sit-on-bottom stability are analyzed.展开更多
Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain...Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain. The free surface velocities and the bottom velocities were connected by the exact solution of the Laplace equation. Taking the velocities on half relative water depth as the fundamental unknowns, terms relating to the gradient of the water depth were retained in the inverse series expansion of the exact solution, with which the problem was closed. With enhancements of the finite order Taylor expansion for the velocity field, the application range of the present model was extended to the slope bottom which is not so mild. For linear properties, some validation computations of linear shoaling and Booij' s tests were carried out. The problems of wave-current interactions were also studied numerically to test the performance of the enhanced Boussinesq equations associated with the effect of currents. All these computational results confirm perfectly to the theoretical solution as well as other numerical solutions of the full potential problem available.展开更多
The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be ...The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be extended and applicated to the study of the mechanism. Considering the effects of moving bottoms and starting from the Navier-Stokes equation of motion of a vinous fluid including the Coriolis force, a generalized mean-flow medel theory for the nearshore region, that is, a set of mean-flow equations and their generalized wave action equation involving the three new kinds of actions termed respectively as the current wave action, the bottom wave action and the dissipative wave action which can be applied to arbitrary depth over moving bottoms and ambient currents with a typical vertical structure, is developed by vertical integration and time-averaglng over a wave peried, thus extending the classical concept, wave action, from the ideal averaged flow conservative system to the real averaged flow dissipative dynamical system, and having a large range of application.展开更多
In marine seismic exploration, ocean-bottom cable techniques accurately record the multicomponent seismic wavefield; however, the seismic wave propagation in fluid–solid media cannot be simulated by a single wave equ...In marine seismic exploration, ocean-bottom cable techniques accurately record the multicomponent seismic wavefield; however, the seismic wave propagation in fluid–solid media cannot be simulated by a single wave equation. In addition, when the seabed interface is irregular, traditional finite-difference schemes cannot simulate the seismic wave propagation across the irregular seabed interface. Therefore, an acoustic–elastic forward modeling and vector-based P-and S-wave separation method is proposed. In this method, we divide the fluid–solid elastic media with irregular interface into orthogonal grids and map the irregular interface in the Cartesian coordinates system into a horizontal interface in the curvilinear coordinates system of the computational domain using coordinates transformation. The acoustic and elastic wave equations in the curvilinear coordinates system are applied to the fluid and solid medium, respectively. At the irregular interface, the two equations are combined into an acoustic–elastic equation in the curvilinear coordinates system. We next introduce a full staggered-grid scheme to improve the stability of the numerical simulation. Thus, separate P-and S-wave equations in the curvilinear coordinates system are derived to realize the P-and S-wave separation method.展开更多
The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994)...The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress.展开更多
Longwave breaking is the agent for many important upper ocean layer processes including the trans-fer of horizontal momentum. In a previous study on the process of longwave breaking, only linear bot-tom friction was c...Longwave breaking is the agent for many important upper ocean layer processes including the trans-fer of horizontal momentum. In a previous study on the process of longwave breaking, only linear bot-tom friction was considered.In this paper, we discuss the longwave breaking phenomena in the moregeneral case of nth power bottom friction. Using the theory of blowup of solution,the criterion for thetime and location of the longwave breaking can be obtained.展开更多
With the presence of wind waves, the swaying of survey vessel may effect the quality of sub-bottom profiler records and, therefore, it is necessary to correct the distortions induced by wave action. A major issue is t...With the presence of wind waves, the swaying of survey vessel may effect the quality of sub-bottom profiler records and, therefore, it is necessary to correct the distortions induced by wave action. A major issue is to distinguish wind wave effect and real bedforms such as sand waves. In this paper, a bandstop filter is designed according to the frequency features of wind wave effect to treat the distortion of seabed topography by wind waves. The technique is used to correct the sub-bottom profile in order to eliminate the wave-induced distortions for the sub-bottom profile records from the Yangtze Estuary. This study shows that the undulate seabed record is resulted from wave action, rather than the presence of sand waves, and the filtration technique helps to eliminate the wave effect and recover the real morphology of seabed and the sediment sequence underneath. In addition, a method for data processing is proposed for the case that the record indeed represents a combination of wave effects and real bedforms.展开更多
The resonant flow of an incompressible, inviscid fluid with surface tension on varying bottoms was researched. The effects of different bottoms on the nonlinear surface waves were analyzed. The waterfall plots of the ...The resonant flow of an incompressible, inviscid fluid with surface tension on varying bottoms was researched. The effects of different bottoms on the nonlinear surface waves were analyzed. The waterfall plots of the wave were drawn with Matlab according to the numerical simulation of the fKdV equation with the pseudo-spectral method. From the waterfall plots, the results are obtained as follows: for the convex bottom, the waves system can be viewed as a combination of the effects of forward-step forcing and backwardstep forcing, and these two wave systems respectively radiate upstream and downstream without mutual interaction. Nevertheless, the result for the concave bottom is contrary to the convex one. For some combined bottoms, the wave systems can be considered as the combination of positive forcing and negative forcing.展开更多
In this paper, the effect of waves on erosion of the sandy bottom before mound breakwaters is studied. The sandy bottom basically presents two erosion patterns, between which there is a transitional state, under the a...In this paper, the effect of waves on erosion of the sandy bottom before mound breakwaters is studied. The sandy bottom basically presents two erosion patterns, between which there is a transitional state, under the action of partially standing waves. The two erosion patterns can be determined by dimensionless parameter Us, defined in this paper. The erosion locations, depths and lengths can be estimated by a series of equations presented in the text. Irregular waves are employed in the test besides regular waves, and the effect of the irregular waves can be estimated by the element of equivalent waves, such as T1/3, H1/3.展开更多
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady ...This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug' s model (1995). The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.展开更多
Based on an inverted one-and-one-half inviscid reduced gravity shallow water model with bottom topography representing an abyssal layer under a stagnant upper layer on the equatorial β-Plane, a set of field equations...Based on an inverted one-and-one-half inviscid reduced gravity shallow water model with bottom topography representing an abyssal layer under a stagnant upper layer on the equatorial β-Plane, a set of field equations governing the wave-induced Lagrangian residual currents is developed. The equations show that the wave-induced Lagrangian residual ot satisfies generalized geostrophic dynamics. The relation of meridional residual current to vertical residual current resulted from the varied bottom is similar to the Sverdrup transport relation. The tranport process of potential vorticity for zeroth order approximation is determined by the advection whose velocity is equal to that of the weve-induced Lagrangian residual current.A Kelvin wave solution and the reated solution of Kelvin wave-induced Lagrangian residual current for the case of slowly varying topography are obtained anaytically. The wave solution shows that a shoaling eastward bottom can decrease the propagation speed of the Kelvin wave and cause it to take a longer time to transmit the energy from the west to the central and easterm parts of the basin, and can also shorten the wavelength and enhance the wave amplitude. The wave-induced residual current solution reveals that the existence of a sloping bottom can result in a onier meridional component of wave-induced mesidual current and that Kelvin wave-induced Lagrangian currents’s responses to bottom variation are greater than those of Kelvin wave orbital currents.展开更多
Based on linear water-wave theory, this study investigated the scattering of oblique incident water waves by two unequal surface-piercing thin vertical rigid plates with stepped bottom topography. By using the matched...Based on linear water-wave theory, this study investigated the scattering of oblique incident water waves by two unequal surface-piercing thin vertical rigid plates with stepped bottom topography. By using the matched eigenfunction expansion method and a least square approach, the analytical solutions are sought for the established boundary value problem. The effects of the incidence angle, location of step, depth ratio of deep to shallow waters,and column width between two plates, on the reflection coefficients, the horizontal wave forces acting on the two plates, and the mean surface elevation between the two plates, are numerically examined under a variety of wave conditions. The results show that the existence of the stepped bottom between two plates considerably impacts the hydrodynamic performances of the present system. It is found that the effect of stepped bottom on the reflection coefficient of the present two-plate structure is evident only with waves of the low dimensionless frequency.Moreover, the influence of the step location on the hydrodynamic performance of the present two-plate structure is slight if the step is placed in between the two plates.展开更多
基金The project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (19772057,19772065) and by the Chinese Academy of Sciences (KZ951-A1-405-01)
文摘Wave-soil-pipe coupling effect on the untrenched pipeline stability on sands is for the first time investigated experimentally. Tests are conducted in the U-shaped water tunnel, which generates an oscillatory how, simulating the water particle movements with periodically changing direction under the wave action. Characteristic times and phases during the instability process are revealed. Linear relationship between Froude number and non-dimensional pipe weight is obtained. Effects of initial embedment and loading history are observed. Test results between the wavesoil-pipe interaction and pipe-soil interaction under cyclic mechanical loading are compared. The mechanism is briefly discussed. For applying in the practical design, more extensive and systematic investigations are needed.
基金The Program of International S&T Cooperation under contract No.2010DFA24470the National Science Foundation of China under contract No.41376101the Guangdong Provincial Science and Technology Planning Project under contract Nos 2012A030200002 and 2011B031100008
文摘On the basis of the measurement data pertaining to waves, current, and sediment in February 2012 in the mouth bar of the Modaomen Estuary, the Soulsby formulae with an iterative method are applied to calculating bottom shear stresses (BSS) and their effect on a sediment resuspension. Swell induced BSS have been found to be the most important part of the BSS. In this study, the correlation coefficient between a wavecurrent shear stress and SSC is 0.86, and that between current shear stresses and SSC is only 0.40. The peaks of the SSC are consistent with the height and the BSS of the swell. The swell is the main mechanism for the sediment re-suspension, and the tidal current effect on sediment re-suspension is small. The peaks of the SSC are centered on the high tidal level, and the flood tide enhances the wave shear stresses and the SSC near the bottom. The critical shear stress for sediment re-suspension at the observation station is between 0.20 and 0.30 N/m2. Tidal currents are too weak to stir up the bottom sediment into the flow, but a WCI (wave-current interaction) is strong enough to re-suspend the coarse sediment.
基金supported by State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering Self-Development (GKZD010053-3) and EPSRC (EP/G006482/1)
文摘When ocean waves propagate over the sea floor,dynamic wave pressures and bottom shear stresses exert on the surface of seabed.The bottom shear stresses provide a horizontal loading in the wave-seabed interaction system,while dynamic wave pressures provide a vertical loading in the system.However,the bottom shear stresses have been ignored in most previous studies in the past.In this study,the effects of the bottom shear stresses on the dynamic response in a seabed of finite thickness under wave loading will be examined,based on Biot's dynamic poro-elastic theory.In the model,an "u-p" approximation will be adopted instead of quasi-static model that have been used in most previous studies.Numerical results indicate that the bottom shear stresses has certain influences on the wave-induced seabed dynamic response.Furthermore,wave and soil characteristics have considerable influences on the relative difference of seabed response between the previous model(without shear stresses) and the present model(with shear stresses).As shown in the parametric study,the relative differences between two models could up to 10% of p0,depending on the amplitude of bottom shear stresses.
文摘In this paper, we conducted a numerical analysis on the bottom-hinged flap-type Wave Energy Convertor (WEC). The basic model, implemented through the study using ANSYS-AQWA, has been validated by a three-dimensional physical model of a pitching vertical cylinder. Then, a systematic parametric assessment has been performed on stiffness, damping, and WEC direction against an incoming wave rose, resulting in an optimized flap-type WEC for a specific spot in the Persian Gulf. Here, stiffness is tuned to have a near-resonance condition considering the wave rose, while damping is modified to capture the highest energy for each device direction. Moreover, such sets of specifications have been checked at different directions to present the best combination of stiffness, damping, and device heading. It has been shown that for a real condition, including different wave heights, periods, and directions, it is very important to implement the methodology introduced here to guarantee device performance.
文摘Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green's second identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations currently in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.
基金This project was supported by the National Outstanding Youth Science Foundation of China under contract! No. 49825161.
文摘A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Hamiltonian formulation for irrotational motions. The bottom topography consists of two components the slowly varying component which satisfies the mild-slope approximation, and the fast varying component with wavelengths on the order of the surface wavelength but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter describing the mild-slope condition. The theory is more widely applicable and contains as special cases the following famous mild-slope type equations: the classical mild-Slope equation, Kirby's extended mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. Finally, good agreement between the classic experimental data concerning Bragg reflection and the present numerical results is observed.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 41206074 and 51205346)the Special Fund for Marine Renewable Energy (Grant Nos. GHME2011CX01 and GHME2011ZC05)
文摘The hydrodynamic performance of a bottom-hinged flap wave energy converter (WEC) is investigated through a frequency domain numerical model. The numerical model is verified through a two-dimensional analytic solution, as well as the qualitative analysis on the dynamic response of avibrating system. The concept of "optimum density" of the bottom-hinged flap is proposed, and its analytic expression is derived as well. The frequency interval in which the optimum density exists is also obtained. The analytic expression of the optimum linear damping coefficient is obtained by a bottom-hinged WEC. Some basic dynamic properties involving natural period, excitation moment, pitch amplitude, and optimum damping coefficient are analyzed and discussed in detail. In addition, this paper highlights the analysis of effects on the conversion performance of the device exerted by some important parameters. The results indicate that "the optimum linear damping period of 5.0 s" is the most ideal option in the short wave sea states with the wave period below 6.0 s. Shallow water depth, large flap thickness and low flap density are advised in the practical design of the device in short wave sea states in order to maximize power capture. In the sea state with water depth of 5.0 m and wave period of 5.0 s, the results of parametric optimization suggest a flap with the width of 8.0 m, thickness of 1.6 m, and with the density as little as possible when the optimum power take-off (PTO) damping coefficient is adopted.
文摘- In this paper, an engineering method is employed to calculate the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the mat of the submersible platform under Froude-Krylov hypothesis. According to some model tests, appropriate diffraction coefficients are selected. And the results of the formulae given in the paper agree satisfactorily with those experimental data now available. The proposed computational method is effective and convenient to use in evaluating the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the mat. An exmaple is also given in this paper. Finally, the effects of the vertical wave force on the platorm's sit-on-bottom stability are analyzed.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 10172058)the Special Fund for PhD Program of Education Ministry of China (No.2000024817)
文摘Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain. The free surface velocities and the bottom velocities were connected by the exact solution of the Laplace equation. Taking the velocities on half relative water depth as the fundamental unknowns, terms relating to the gradient of the water depth were retained in the inverse series expansion of the exact solution, with which the problem was closed. With enhancements of the finite order Taylor expansion for the velocity field, the application range of the present model was extended to the slope bottom which is not so mild. For linear properties, some validation computations of linear shoaling and Booij' s tests were carried out. The problems of wave-current interactions were also studied numerically to test the performance of the enhanced Boussinesq equations associated with the effect of currents. All these computational results confirm perfectly to the theoretical solution as well as other numerical solutions of the full potential problem available.
基金This paper was supported bythe Foundationforthe Author of National Excellent Doctoral Dissertation of P.R.China(Grant No.200428) the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .10272072 and 50424913) +1 种基金theShanghai Natural Science Foundation (Grant No.05ZR14048) the Shanghai Leading Academic Discipline Pro-ject (Grant No. Y0103)
文摘The interaction between waves, currents and bottoms in estuarine and coastal regions is ubiquitious, in particular the dynamic mechanism of waves on large-scale slowly varying currents. The wave action concept may be extended and applicated to the study of the mechanism. Considering the effects of moving bottoms and starting from the Navier-Stokes equation of motion of a vinous fluid including the Coriolis force, a generalized mean-flow medel theory for the nearshore region, that is, a set of mean-flow equations and their generalized wave action equation involving the three new kinds of actions termed respectively as the current wave action, the bottom wave action and the dissipative wave action which can be applied to arbitrary depth over moving bottoms and ambient currents with a typical vertical structure, is developed by vertical integration and time-averaglng over a wave peried, thus extending the classical concept, wave action, from the ideal averaged flow conservative system to the real averaged flow dissipative dynamical system, and having a large range of application.
基金financially supported by the Natural Science Foundation of China(No.41774133)the Open Funds of SINOPEC Key Laboratory of Geophysics(No.wtyjy-wx2017-01-04)National Science and Technology Major Project of the Ministry of Science and Technology of China(No.2016ZX05024-003-011)
文摘In marine seismic exploration, ocean-bottom cable techniques accurately record the multicomponent seismic wavefield; however, the seismic wave propagation in fluid–solid media cannot be simulated by a single wave equation. In addition, when the seabed interface is irregular, traditional finite-difference schemes cannot simulate the seismic wave propagation across the irregular seabed interface. Therefore, an acoustic–elastic forward modeling and vector-based P-and S-wave separation method is proposed. In this method, we divide the fluid–solid elastic media with irregular interface into orthogonal grids and map the irregular interface in the Cartesian coordinates system into a horizontal interface in the curvilinear coordinates system of the computational domain using coordinates transformation. The acoustic and elastic wave equations in the curvilinear coordinates system are applied to the fluid and solid medium, respectively. At the irregular interface, the two equations are combined into an acoustic–elastic equation in the curvilinear coordinates system. We next introduce a full staggered-grid scheme to improve the stability of the numerical simulation. Thus, separate P-and S-wave equations in the curvilinear coordinates system are derived to realize the P-and S-wave separation method.
文摘The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress.
文摘Longwave breaking is the agent for many important upper ocean layer processes including the trans-fer of horizontal momentum. In a previous study on the process of longwave breaking, only linear bot-tom friction was considered.In this paper, we discuss the longwave breaking phenomena in the moregeneral case of nth power bottom friction. Using the theory of blowup of solution,the criterion for thetime and location of the longwave breaking can be obtained.
基金The workis supported bythe National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos 40231010 and 40476041)
文摘With the presence of wind waves, the swaying of survey vessel may effect the quality of sub-bottom profiler records and, therefore, it is necessary to correct the distortions induced by wave action. A major issue is to distinguish wind wave effect and real bedforms such as sand waves. In this paper, a bandstop filter is designed according to the frequency features of wind wave effect to treat the distortion of seabed topography by wind waves. The technique is used to correct the sub-bottom profile in order to eliminate the wave-induced distortions for the sub-bottom profile records from the Yangtze Estuary. This study shows that the undulate seabed record is resulted from wave action, rather than the presence of sand waves, and the filtration technique helps to eliminate the wave effect and recover the real morphology of seabed and the sediment sequence underneath. In addition, a method for data processing is proposed for the case that the record indeed represents a combination of wave effects and real bedforms.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.10272044)the Ph. D. Programs Foundation of Ministry of Education of China(No.20040079004)
文摘The resonant flow of an incompressible, inviscid fluid with surface tension on varying bottoms was researched. The effects of different bottoms on the nonlinear surface waves were analyzed. The waterfall plots of the wave were drawn with Matlab according to the numerical simulation of the fKdV equation with the pseudo-spectral method. From the waterfall plots, the results are obtained as follows: for the convex bottom, the waves system can be viewed as a combination of the effects of forward-step forcing and backwardstep forcing, and these two wave systems respectively radiate upstream and downstream without mutual interaction. Nevertheless, the result for the concave bottom is contrary to the convex one. For some combined bottoms, the wave systems can be considered as the combination of positive forcing and negative forcing.
文摘In this paper, the effect of waves on erosion of the sandy bottom before mound breakwaters is studied. The sandy bottom basically presents two erosion patterns, between which there is a transitional state, under the action of partially standing waves. The two erosion patterns can be determined by dimensionless parameter Us, defined in this paper. The erosion locations, depths and lengths can be estimated by a series of equations presented in the text. Irregular waves are employed in the test besides regular waves, and the effect of the irregular waves can be estimated by the element of equivalent waves, such as T1/3, H1/3.
基金the Science Council (Grant No. NSC95-2221-E-006-474)
文摘This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug' s model (1995). The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.
文摘Based on an inverted one-and-one-half inviscid reduced gravity shallow water model with bottom topography representing an abyssal layer under a stagnant upper layer on the equatorial β-Plane, a set of field equations governing the wave-induced Lagrangian residual currents is developed. The equations show that the wave-induced Lagrangian residual ot satisfies generalized geostrophic dynamics. The relation of meridional residual current to vertical residual current resulted from the varied bottom is similar to the Sverdrup transport relation. The tranport process of potential vorticity for zeroth order approximation is determined by the advection whose velocity is equal to that of the weve-induced Lagrangian residual current.A Kelvin wave solution and the reated solution of Kelvin wave-induced Lagrangian residual current for the case of slowly varying topography are obtained anaytically. The wave solution shows that a shoaling eastward bottom can decrease the propagation speed of the Kelvin wave and cause it to take a longer time to transmit the energy from the west to the central and easterm parts of the basin, and can also shorten the wavelength and enhance the wave amplitude. The wave-induced residual current solution reveals that the existence of a sloping bottom can result in a onier meridional component of wave-induced mesidual current and that Kelvin wave-induced Lagrangian currents’s responses to bottom variation are greater than those of Kelvin wave orbital currents.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.11702244)the Project of the Cooperation of Zhoushan City and Zhejiang University(Grant No.2017C82223)+1 种基金the Open Foundation of Key Laboratory of Port,Waterway and Sedimentation Engineering of the Ministry of Transport(Grant No.Yn216006)the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(WUT:2017IVA009)
文摘Based on linear water-wave theory, this study investigated the scattering of oblique incident water waves by two unequal surface-piercing thin vertical rigid plates with stepped bottom topography. By using the matched eigenfunction expansion method and a least square approach, the analytical solutions are sought for the established boundary value problem. The effects of the incidence angle, location of step, depth ratio of deep to shallow waters,and column width between two plates, on the reflection coefficients, the horizontal wave forces acting on the two plates, and the mean surface elevation between the two plates, are numerically examined under a variety of wave conditions. The results show that the existence of the stepped bottom between two plates considerably impacts the hydrodynamic performances of the present system. It is found that the effect of stepped bottom on the reflection coefficient of the present two-plate structure is evident only with waves of the low dimensionless frequency.Moreover, the influence of the step location on the hydrodynamic performance of the present two-plate structure is slight if the step is placed in between the two plates.