Accurate simulation of the evolution of freak waves by the wave phase focusing method requires accurate linear and nonlinear properties,especially in deep-water conditions.In this paper,we analyze the ability to simul...Accurate simulation of the evolution of freak waves by the wave phase focusing method requires accurate linear and nonlinear properties,especially in deep-water conditions.In this paper,we analyze the ability to simulate deep-water focused waves of a two-layer Boussinesq-type(BT)model,which has been shown to have excellent linear and nonlinear performance.To further improve the numerical accuracy and stability,the internal wavegenerated method is introduced into the two-layer Boussinesq-type model.Firstly,the sensitivity of the numerical results to the grid resolution is analyzed to verify the convergence of the model;secondly,the focused wave propagating in two opposite directions is simulated to prove the symmetry of the numerical results and the feasibility of the internal wave-generated method;thirdly,the limiting focused wave condition is simulated to compare and analyze the wave surface and the horizontal velocity of the profile at the focusing position,which is in good agreement with the measured values.Meanwhile the simulation of focused waves in very deep waters agrees well with the measured values,which further demonstrates the capability of the two-layer BT model in simulating focused waves in deep waters.展开更多
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wav...A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.展开更多
Many new forms of Boussinesq-type equations have been developed to extend the range of applicability of the classical Boussinesq equations to deeper water in the Study of the surface waves. One approach was used by Nw...Many new forms of Boussinesq-type equations have been developed to extend the range of applicability of the classical Boussinesq equations to deeper water in the Study of the surface waves. One approach was used by Nwogu (1993. J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) to improve the linear dispersion characteristics of the classical Boussinesq equations by using the velocity at an arbitrary level as the velocity variable in derived equations and obtain a new form of Boussinesq-type equations, in which the dispersion property can be optimized by choosing the velocity variable at an adequate level. In this paper, a set of Boussinesq-type equations describing the motions of the interracial waves propagating alone the interface between two homogeneous incompressible and inviscid fluids of different densities with a free surface and a variable water depth were derived using a method similar to that used by Nwogu (1993. J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) for surface waves. The equations were expressed in terms of the displacements of free surface and density-interface, and the velocity vectors at arbitrary vertical locations in the upper layer and the lower layer (or depth-averaged velocity vector across each layer) of a two-layer fluid. As expected, the equations derived in the present work include as special cases those obtained by Nwogu (1993, J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) and Peregrine (1967, J. Fluid Mech. 27, 815-827) for surface waves when the density of the upper fluid is taken as zero.展开更多
Interracial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in t...Interracial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. A set of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities accounting for stronger nonlinearity are derived. When the small parameter measuring frequency dispersion keeping up to lower-order and full nonlinearity are considered, the equations include the Choi and Camassa's results (1999). The enhanced equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities are obtained by applying the enhancement technique introduced by Madsen et al. (1991) and Schaffer and Madsen (1995a). It is noted that the equations derived from the present study include, as special cases, those obtained by Madsen and Schaffer (1998). By comparison with the dispersion relation of the linear Stokes waves, we found that the dispersion relation is more improved than Choi and Camassa's (1999) results, and the applicable scope of water depth is deeper.展开更多
Starting from the Davey-Stewartson equation, a Boussinesq-type coupled equation system is obtained by using a variable separation approach. For the Boussinesq-type coupled equation system, its consistent Riccati expan...Starting from the Davey-Stewartson equation, a Boussinesq-type coupled equation system is obtained by using a variable separation approach. For the Boussinesq-type coupled equation system, its consistent Riccati expansion (CRE) solvability is studied with the help of a Riccati equation. It is significant that the soliton--cnoidal wave interaction solution, expressed explicitly by Jacobi elliptic functions and the third type of incomplete elliptic integral, of the system is also given.展开更多
For simulating water wave propagation in coastal areas, various Boussinesq-type equations with improved properties in intermediate or deep water have been presented in the past several decades. How to choose proper Bo...For simulating water wave propagation in coastal areas, various Boussinesq-type equations with improved properties in intermediate or deep water have been presented in the past several decades. How to choose proper Boussinesq-type equations has been a practical problem for engineers. In this paper, approaches of improving the characteristics of the equations, i.e. linear dispersion, shoaling gradient and nonlinearity, are reviewed and the advantages and disadvantages of several different Boussinesq-type equations are compared for the applications of these Boussinesq-type equations in coastal engineering with relatively large sea areas. Then for improving the properties of Boussinesq-type equations, a new set of fully nonlinear Boussinseq-type equations with modified representative velocity are derived, which can be used for better linear dispersion and nonlinearity. Based on the method of minimizing the overall error in different ranges of applications, sets of parameters are determined with optimized linear dispersion, linear shoaling and nonlinearity, respectively. Finally, a test example is given for validating the results of this study. Both results show that the equations with optimized parameters display better characteristics than the ones obtained by matching with pad6 approximation.展开更多
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model i...Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.展开更多
Based on the highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations in terms of velocity potential, the shallow-water sloshing in a two-dimensional rectangular tank is studied. The rectangular tank in harmonic sway, heave and roll...Based on the highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations in terms of velocity potential, the shallow-water sloshing in a two-dimensional rectangular tank is studied. The rectangular tank in harmonic sway, heave and roll motions with small excitation amplitudes is considered. The total velocity potential is divided into two parts: the particular solution and the remaining part to be determined by the Boussinesq-type equations. The Stokes-Joukowski potential is adopted in the particular solution for the roll excitation motion. The comparisons of the numerical results indicate that the shallow-water sloshing motions in a rectangular tank can be predicted well based on the Boussinesq-type equations.展开更多
The authors generalize the Cauchy matrix approach to get exact solutions to the lattice Boussinesq-type equations:lattice Boussinesq equation,lattice modified Boussinesq equation and lattice Schwarzian Boussinesq equa...The authors generalize the Cauchy matrix approach to get exact solutions to the lattice Boussinesq-type equations:lattice Boussinesq equation,lattice modified Boussinesq equation and lattice Schwarzian Boussinesq equation.Some kinds of solutions including soliton solutions,Jordan block solutions and mixed solutions are obtained.展开更多
An extended form of Boussinesq-type equations with improved nonlinearity is presented for the water wave propagation and transformation in coastal areas. To improve the nonlinearity of lower order Boussinesq-type equa...An extended form of Boussinesq-type equations with improved nonlinearity is presented for the water wave propagation and transformation in coastal areas. To improve the nonlinearity of lower order Boussinesq-type equations,without including higher order derivative terms, an extended form of Boussinesq-type equations is derived by a generalized method. The Stokes-type analysis of the extended equations shows that the accuracy of the second order and third order nonlinear characteristics is improved greatly. The numerical test is also carried out to investigate the practical performance of the new equations under different wave conditions. Better agreement with experimental data is found in the regions of strong nonlinear wave-wave interaction and harmonic generation.展开更多
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of ...High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).展开更多
If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become s...If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary.展开更多
基金The National Natural Science Foundation under contract Nos 52171247,51779022,52071057,and 51709054.
文摘Accurate simulation of the evolution of freak waves by the wave phase focusing method requires accurate linear and nonlinear properties,especially in deep-water conditions.In this paper,we analyze the ability to simulate deep-water focused waves of a two-layer Boussinesq-type(BT)model,which has been shown to have excellent linear and nonlinear performance.To further improve the numerical accuracy and stability,the internal wavegenerated method is introduced into the two-layer Boussinesq-type model.Firstly,the sensitivity of the numerical results to the grid resolution is analyzed to verify the convergence of the model;secondly,the focused wave propagating in two opposite directions is simulated to prove the symmetry of the numerical results and the feasibility of the internal wave-generated method;thirdly,the limiting focused wave condition is simulated to compare and analyze the wave surface and the horizontal velocity of the profile at the focusing position,which is in good agreement with the measured values.Meanwhile the simulation of focused waves in very deep waters agrees well with the measured values,which further demonstrates the capability of the two-layer BT model in simulating focused waves in deep waters.
基金This work was financially supported by the Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China (Grant No.40106008) and by LED, South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences.
文摘A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.
文摘Many new forms of Boussinesq-type equations have been developed to extend the range of applicability of the classical Boussinesq equations to deeper water in the Study of the surface waves. One approach was used by Nwogu (1993. J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) to improve the linear dispersion characteristics of the classical Boussinesq equations by using the velocity at an arbitrary level as the velocity variable in derived equations and obtain a new form of Boussinesq-type equations, in which the dispersion property can be optimized by choosing the velocity variable at an adequate level. In this paper, a set of Boussinesq-type equations describing the motions of the interracial waves propagating alone the interface between two homogeneous incompressible and inviscid fluids of different densities with a free surface and a variable water depth were derived using a method similar to that used by Nwogu (1993. J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) for surface waves. The equations were expressed in terms of the displacements of free surface and density-interface, and the velocity vectors at arbitrary vertical locations in the upper layer and the lower layer (or depth-averaged velocity vector across each layer) of a two-layer fluid. As expected, the equations derived in the present work include as special cases those obtained by Nwogu (1993, J. Wtrw. Port Coastal and Oc. Eng. 119, 618-638) and Peregrine (1967, J. Fluid Mech. 27, 815-827) for surface waves when the density of the upper fluid is taken as zero.
基金Knowledge Innovation Programs of the Chinese Academy of Sciences under contract Nos KZCX2-YW-201 and KZCX1-YW-12Natural Science Fund supported by the Educational Department of Inner Mongolia under contract Nos NJzy080005,and NJ09011A Grant from Science Fund for Young Scholars of Inner Mongolia University under contract NoND0801
文摘Interracial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. A set of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities accounting for stronger nonlinearity are derived. When the small parameter measuring frequency dispersion keeping up to lower-order and full nonlinearity are considered, the equations include the Choi and Camassa's results (1999). The enhanced equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities are obtained by applying the enhancement technique introduced by Madsen et al. (1991) and Schaffer and Madsen (1995a). It is noted that the equations derived from the present study include, as special cases, those obtained by Madsen and Schaffer (1998). By comparison with the dispersion relation of the linear Stokes waves, we found that the dispersion relation is more improved than Choi and Camassa's (1999) results, and the applicable scope of water depth is deeper.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.11275129)
文摘Starting from the Davey-Stewartson equation, a Boussinesq-type coupled equation system is obtained by using a variable separation approach. For the Boussinesq-type coupled equation system, its consistent Riccati expansion (CRE) solvability is studied with the help of a Riccati equation. It is significant that the soliton--cnoidal wave interaction solution, expressed explicitly by Jacobi elliptic functions and the third type of incomplete elliptic integral, of the system is also given.
基金financially supported by the National Science and Technology Support Program of China(Grant No.2010BAC68B04)
文摘For simulating water wave propagation in coastal areas, various Boussinesq-type equations with improved properties in intermediate or deep water have been presented in the past several decades. How to choose proper Boussinesq-type equations has been a practical problem for engineers. In this paper, approaches of improving the characteristics of the equations, i.e. linear dispersion, shoaling gradient and nonlinearity, are reviewed and the advantages and disadvantages of several different Boussinesq-type equations are compared for the applications of these Boussinesq-type equations in coastal engineering with relatively large sea areas. Then for improving the properties of Boussinesq-type equations, a new set of fully nonlinear Boussinseq-type equations with modified representative velocity are derived, which can be used for better linear dispersion and nonlinearity. Based on the method of minimizing the overall error in different ranges of applications, sets of parameters are determined with optimized linear dispersion, linear shoaling and nonlinearity, respectively. Finally, a test example is given for validating the results of this study. Both results show that the equations with optimized parameters display better characteristics than the ones obtained by matching with pad6 approximation.
基金Supported by the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars (No 40425015)the Knowledge Innovation Programs of the Chinese Academy of Sciences (Nos KZCX1-YW-12 and KZCX2-YW-201)
文摘Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51609187,51609186 and 51609188)the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.WUT:2182017255)
文摘Based on the highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations in terms of velocity potential, the shallow-water sloshing in a two-dimensional rectangular tank is studied. The rectangular tank in harmonic sway, heave and roll motions with small excitation amplitudes is considered. The total velocity potential is divided into two parts: the particular solution and the remaining part to be determined by the Boussinesq-type equations. The Stokes-Joukowski potential is adopted in the particular solution for the roll excitation motion. The comparisons of the numerical results indicate that the shallow-water sloshing motions in a rectangular tank can be predicted well based on the Boussinesq-type equations.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.11071157)the Shanghai Leading Academic Discipline Project (No.J50101)the Postgraduate Innovation Foundation of Shanghai University (No.SHUCX111027)
文摘The authors generalize the Cauchy matrix approach to get exact solutions to the lattice Boussinesq-type equations:lattice Boussinesq equation,lattice modified Boussinesq equation and lattice Schwarzian Boussinesq equation.Some kinds of solutions including soliton solutions,Jordan block solutions and mixed solutions are obtained.
基金Project supported by the National Key Technology Su-pport Program(Grant No.2010BAC68B04)
文摘An extended form of Boussinesq-type equations with improved nonlinearity is presented for the water wave propagation and transformation in coastal areas. To improve the nonlinearity of lower order Boussinesq-type equations,without including higher order derivative terms, an extended form of Boussinesq-type equations is derived by a generalized method. The Stokes-type analysis of the extended equations shows that the accuracy of the second order and third order nonlinear characteristics is improved greatly. The numerical test is also carried out to investigate the practical performance of the new equations under different wave conditions. Better agreement with experimental data is found in the regions of strong nonlinear wave-wave interaction and harmonic generation.
文摘High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51079082 and 40676053)the LRET through the joint centre involving University College London,Shanghai JiaoTong University and Harbin Engineering University
文摘If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary.