Numerical simulation of sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents

Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.

A GPU accelerated Boussinesq-type model for coastal waves

This study presents an efficient Boussinesq-type wave model accelerated by a single Graphics Processing Unit(GPU).The model uses the hybrid finite volume and finite difference method to solve weakly dispersive and nonlinear Boussinesq equations in the horizontal plane,enabling the model to have the shock-capturing ability to deal with breaking waves and moving shoreline properly.The code is written in CUDA C.To achieve better performance,the model uses cyclic reduction technique to solve massive tridiagonal linear systems and overlapped tiling/shared memory to reduce global memory access and enhance data reuse.Four numerical tests are conducted to validate the GPU implementation.The performance of the GPU model is evaluated by running a series of numerical simulations on two GPU platforms with different hardware configurations.Compared with the CPU version,the maximum speedup ratios for single-precision and double-precision calculations are 55.56 and 32.57,respectively.

Wavelet analysis of coastal-trapped waves along the China coast generated by winter storms in 2008

This study applies the wavelet analysis to the tidal gauge records, alongshore winds, atmospheric temperature and pressure along the China coast in winter 2008. The analysis results show three events of sea level oscillations （SLOs） on the shelf induced by winter storms. The first event occurred from January 9 to 21. The SLO periods were double-peaked at 1.6-5.3 and 7.0-16.0 d with the power densities of 0.04-0.05 and 0.10-0.15 m^2.d, respectively. The second event occurred from February 5 to 18. The SLO period was single-peaked at 2.3-3.5 d with power density of 0.03-0.04 m^2.d. The third event occurred from February 20 to March 8. The SLO periods were double- peaked at 1.5-4.3 and 6.1-8.2 d with the power densities of 0.08-0.11 and 0.02-0.08 me.d, respectively. The SLOs propagated along the coast from Zhejiang in north to Guangdong in south. The phase speeds ranged about 9-29 m/s from Kanmen to Pingtan, 5-11 m/s from Xiamen to Huizhou and 11-22 m/s from Huizhou to Shuidong. The dispersion relation of the SLOs shows their nature of coastal-trapped wave.

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.

Model-Simulated Coastal Trapped Waves Stimulated by Typhoon in Northwestern South China Sea

In this paper, we apply an unstructured grid coastal ocean model to simulate variations in the sea level and currents forced by two typhoons in the northwestern South China Sea(SCS). The model simulations show distinct differences for the two cases in which the typhoon paths were north and south of the Qiongzhou(QZ) Strait. In both cases, coastal trapped waves(CTWs) are stimulated but their propagation behaviors differ. Model sensitivity simulations suggest the dominant role played by alongshore wind in the eastern SCS(near Shanwei) and southeast of Hainan Island. We also examine the influence of the Leizhou Peninsula by changing the coastline in simulation experiments. Based on our results, we can draw the following conclusions: 1) The CTWs stimulated by the northern typhoon are stronger than the southern CTW. 2) In the two cases, the directions of the current structures of the QZ cross-transect are reversed. The strongest flow cores are both located in the middle-upper area of the strait and the results of our empirical orthogonal function analysis show that the vertical structure is highly barotropic. 3) The simulated CTWs divide into two branches in the QZ Strait for the northern typhoon, and an island trapped wave(ITW) around Hainan Island for the southern typhoon. 4) The Leizhou Peninsula plays a significant role in the distribution of the kinetic energy flux between the two CTW branches. In the presence of the Leizhou Peninsula, the QZ branch has only 39.7 percent of the total energy, whereas that ratio increases to 72.2 percent in its absence.

Modelling Solitary Waves and Its Impact on Coastal Houses with SPH Method

The interaction between solid structures and free-surface flows is investigated in this study. A Smoothed Particle Hy- drodynamics （SPH） model is used in the investigation and is verified against analytical solutions and experimental obser- vations. The main aim is to examine the effectiveness of a tsunami-resistant house design by predicting the wave loads on it. To achieve this, the solitary wave generation and ran-up are studied first. The solitary wave is generated by allowing a heavily weighted block to penetrate into a tank of water at one end, and the near-shore seabed is modelled by an inclined section with a constant slope. Then, the SPH model is applied to simulate the three-dimensional flows around different types of houses under the action of a solitary wave. It has been found that the tsunami-resistant house design reduces the impact force by a factor of three.

Effect of Sea Level Rise and Offshore Wave Height Change on Nearshore Waves and Coastal Structures

In 1994,Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves.The method was extended to irregular waves by Cheon and Suh in 2016.In this study,this method is further extended to include the effect of future change in offshore wave height and the sea level rise.The relative changes in wavelength,refraction coefficient,shoaling coefficient,and wave height in nearshore area are presented as functions of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.The calculated relative changes in wave characteristics are then used to estimate the effect of sea level rise and offshore wave height change on coastal structures by calculating the relative changes in wave run-up height,overtopping discharge,crest freeboard,and armor weight of the structures.The relative changes in wave characteristics and structure-related parameters are all expressed as a function of the relative water depth for various combinations of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

波浪数字光谱技术被建议借助于波浪的合成的孔雷达(SAR ) 图象检索沿海的水深度。基于海浪的一般分散关系，在改变水深度上的一个表面波浪的波长变化能从 SAR 被导出。接近波浪并且用海浪的一般分散关系的 SAR 图象的分析，遥感深测术的这种间接技术在福建省被用于 Xiapu 的一个沿海的区域，中国。结果证明这种技术为有可变的水深度的近岸的区域特别对沿海的水合适。

Cross-shelf transport induced by coastal trapped waves along the coast of East China Sea

Cross-shelf transport is important due to its role in the transport of nutrients, larvae, sediments, and pollutants. The role of coastal trapped waves(CTWs) and their contribution to the cross-shelf transport is presently unknown. The impact of wind-driven CTWs on the structure of the cross-shelf currents and transport is investigated in the East China Sea(ECS) starting from theory. The cross-shelf currents are divided into four terms: the geostrophic balance(GB) term, the second-order wave(SOW) term, the bottom friction(BF) term and Ekman(EK) term, as well as three modes: the Kelvin wave(KW) mode, the first shelf wave(SW1) mode and the second shelf wave(SW2) mode. Comparison among these decompositions shows that(1) for the four terms, the effect of the GB and EK terms is continual, while that of the BF term is confi ned to 60–240 km of fshore, and the contribution of the SOW term can be ignored;(2) for the three modes, the KW and SW1 modes are dominant in cross-shelf transport. The results show that the total cross-shelf transport travels onshore under idealized wind stress on the order of 10^(-1), and it increases along the cross-shelf direction and peaks about-0.73 Sv at the continental shelf margin. With the increase of linear bottom friction coeffi cient, the cross-shelf transport declines with distance with the slope becoming more uniform.

Propagation Mechanisms of Incident Tsunami Wave in Jiangsu Coastal Area,Caused by Eastern Japan Earthquake on March 11,2011

At 13：46 on March 11, 2011（Beijing time）, an earthquake of Mw=9.0 occurred in Japan. By comparing the tsunami data from Guanhekou marine station with other tsunami wave observation gathered from southeast coastal area of China, it was evident that, only in Guanhekou, the position of the maximum wave height appeared in the middle part rather than in the front of the tsunami wave train. A numerical model of tsunami propagation based on 2-D nonlinear shallow water equations was built to study the impact range and main causes of the special tsunami waveform discovered in Jiangsu coastal area. The results showed that nearly three-quarters of the Jiangsu coastal area, mainly comprised the part north of the radial sand ridges, reached its maximum tsunami wave height in the middle part of the wave train. The main cause of the special waveform was the special underwater topography condition of the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea area, which influenced the tsunami propagation and waveform significantly. Although land boundary reflection brought an effect on the position of the maximum wave height to a certain extent, as the limits of the incident waveform and distances between the observation points and shore, it was not the dominant influence factor of the special waveform. Coriolis force＇s impact on the tsunami waves was so weak that it was not the main cause for the special phenomenon in Jiangsu coastal area. The study reminds us that the most destructive wave might not appear in the first one in tsunami wave train.

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.

A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying currents and depths, and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave, a model for nonlinear irregular waves in coastal area is developed. In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering application, a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented, with directional spectrum in coastal area. Coast effect, refraction, whitecapping, bottom friction, current, wind and nonlinear action are considered in this model. The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray, energy conservation of propagation, energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied. Finally, the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay. Compared with the measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay, the model results are in good agreement with the measured results.

Research on the Relationship between Shallow Shear Wave Velocity and Basement Structure in the Tianjin Coastal Area

Shear wave velocity is one of the important dynamic characteristics of soil layers and applied widely in aseismic engineering. In this paper, 500 drill logging data are used to make a linear interpolation based on 0.01°×0.01°×1m grid. A shallow 3-D shear wave velocity structure of Tianjin coastal area is obtained. According to the data and geological background, we selected two typical velocity profiles to try to introduce and explain its relationship to basement structure. The results show that the shear wave velocity structure clearly presents the characteristic of stratification and lateral inhomogeneity. Furthermore, the difference of the shear wave structure between tectonic elements is clear and the velocity structure between the two sides of the local or border fault in the Quaternary is disturbed or affected significantly. It intuitively shows that the basement structure and fault activity of this region had good control of sedimentation development and strata formation in the Quaternary period which would have an important effect on engineering seismic and geological condition evaluation.

海岸植被防护机制的物理模型试验研究进展

基于自然的海岸修复与防护越来越受到人们关注,从海岸植被对水动力及泥沙运动影响机制的物理模型试验研究方面,介绍了试验研究中植被的描述方法,包括植被的分类、材料选择、特性表征等;综述了植被影响下的流场结构、消浪特征、形态阻力相关的研究进展;论述了悬沙浓度分布、泥沙再悬浮、沉积和冲刷模式等泥沙输运方面的研究成果;结合大量模型试验研究,提出了未来的研究趋势。

基于WAVEWATCHⅢ模型的可能最大台风浪的推算

近几年,极端气象事件较为频繁,威胁了沿海核电厂的防洪安全,而关于可能最大台风浪的计算比较少。文中利用开发的程序,采用风浪数学模型WAVEWATCHⅢ计算了极端天气条件下某个核电厂区的可能最大台风浪,计算结果已经应用于该核电厂区的防洪安全设计中,取得了良好的效果。表明该计算方法能够较好地模拟台风过程波浪大小的变化,对可能最大台风浪的模拟较为准确。

江苏沿海波浪能资源评估研究

随着“3060”目标的提出,波浪能作为一种可持续发展的清洁能源,愈发受到重视。基于此,本文搭建江苏海域的波浪模式,以江苏沿海2021年至2023年的波浪能资源为分析对象,对江苏沿海波浪能流密度空间分布、有效波时和季节变化指数等方面开展初步研究。结果表明:江苏沿海年平均波浪能流密度介于0~11 kW/m,有效波时介于0~6000 h,长江口外深远海波浪能流密度和有效波时相对较大,海州湾内波浪能流密度和有效波时相对较小。越靠外海,波浪能流密度和有效波时越大;纬度越低,波浪能流密度和有效波时向外海增加越明显。江苏沿海区域季节变化指数集中于0.3~1.0,海州湾南侧至洋口港北侧近海区域以及长江口外深远海区域季节变化指数相对较大。该研究结果可为江苏等沿海波浪能资源的开发利用、波能电站的开发选址等方面提供参考。

海景路护岸工程波浪数值模拟分析

为解决海岸护岸工程不同重现期的设计波要素计算问题,以荣成市好运角旅游度假区海景路护岸工程为研究对象,根据成山头海洋站数据风、浪资料,结合ECMWF(欧洲中长期天气预报中心)后报长期风、浪资料,采用第三代海浪模式SWAN模型计算得到拟建护岸设计波浪要素,并对结果进行统计分析。结果表明,工程海域各点位的波况受深水重现期波高影响,重现期越长的波浪对工程海域各点位影响越大;防波堤的建设主要受到E、SE、S向波浪影响;工程点波况受水位影响较大。

波浪作用下临海基坑非等长双排钢板桩受力性状研究

临海基坑工程考虑波浪作用影响,常采用非等长双排钢板桩进行支护,现有双排桩计算模型不适用于此类结构内力变形的计算.为探究波浪作用对此类支护结构内力变形的影响,根据其受荷及布置特点,对现有计算模型中桩土作用力计算方法、前后排桩土压力分配模式及约束形式进行改进,提出非等长双排钢板桩计算模型,与有限元结果进行对比验证,并分析波浪作用对非等长双排钢板桩结构内力变形的影响规律.结果表明:(1)无波浪作用时,基坑侧(前)排桩的弯矩峰值约为临海侧(后)排桩的2倍,前、后排桩弯矩分别呈“抛物线”和“S”型分布;(2)无波浪作用时,前、后排桩水平位移峰值相等且均出现在桩顶,分别呈“对数函数”与“线性函数”型分布;(3)波峰作用下,前、后排桩弯矩及水平位移变化规律与无波浪作用时基本一致,但弯矩及水平位移最大值分别增大121%和87%左右;(4)波谷作用下,前、后排桩弯矩及水平位移最大值显著减小,但两者分布规律相较于无波浪作用时亦无较大差异.

Application of SWAN+ADCIRC to tide-surge and wave simulation in Gulf of Maine during Patriot's Day storm

The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor＇easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore （SWAN） model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation （ADCIRC） model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot＇s Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor＇easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height （SWH） in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.

Numerical investigation on tsunami wave mitigation on forest sloping beach

An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.