This paper studies rotor spinning blended yam produced of spun silk and cashmere. Nine samples were spun, from three different opening rollers and different navels. According to the Uster test results of yam quality p...This paper studies rotor spinning blended yam produced of spun silk and cashmere. Nine samples were spun, from three different opening rollers and different navels. According to the Uster test results of yam quality properties, optimum selection is done by using analysis method of combining fuzzy decision-making and fuzzy pattern classification. Experimental plan is designed based on universal rotated experimental design, and the method of confined optimization is used to optimize the speed of opening roller, the speed of rotor and twist factor, according to the results of yam quality test by Uster.展开更多
Yarn quality characteristics are affected by processing parameters. A 36 tex rotor spun yarn of 50/50 Basofil/ cotton （B/C） blended yarn was spun, and the spinning process optimised for rotor speed, opening roller s...Yarn quality characteristics are affected by processing parameters. A 36 tex rotor spun yarn of 50/50 Basofil/ cotton （B/C） blended yarn was spun, and the spinning process optimised for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor. Selected yarn characteristics were studied during the optimization process. During the optimizations process yarn elongation and hairiness reduced with increase in rotor speed. Tenacity increased with increase of rotor speed. The increase in TF caused tenacity and CV of count to increase up to a peak and then started to decrease with further increase of TF.While TF caused an increase in yarn hairiness, elongation decreased to a minimum level and then started to increase with further increase of TF. CV of count and hairiness increased with increase in opening roller speed, but tenacity and elongation decreased with increase in opening roller speed. The optimization process yielded the optimum levels for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor （TF） as 45,000 rpm, 6,500 rpm and 450 respectively. As per uster Standards the optimum yam showed good results for CV of count, CV of tenacity and thin places/km.展开更多
Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has holl...Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.展开更多
文摘This paper studies rotor spinning blended yam produced of spun silk and cashmere. Nine samples were spun, from three different opening rollers and different navels. According to the Uster test results of yam quality properties, optimum selection is done by using analysis method of combining fuzzy decision-making and fuzzy pattern classification. Experimental plan is designed based on universal rotated experimental design, and the method of confined optimization is used to optimize the speed of opening roller, the speed of rotor and twist factor, according to the results of yam quality test by Uster.
文摘Yarn quality characteristics are affected by processing parameters. A 36 tex rotor spun yarn of 50/50 Basofil/ cotton （B/C） blended yarn was spun, and the spinning process optimised for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor. Selected yarn characteristics were studied during the optimization process. During the optimizations process yarn elongation and hairiness reduced with increase in rotor speed. Tenacity increased with increase of rotor speed. The increase in TF caused tenacity and CV of count to increase up to a peak and then started to decrease with further increase of TF.While TF caused an increase in yarn hairiness, elongation decreased to a minimum level and then started to increase with further increase of TF. CV of count and hairiness increased with increase in opening roller speed, but tenacity and elongation decreased with increase in opening roller speed. The optimization process yielded the optimum levels for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor （TF） as 45,000 rpm, 6,500 rpm and 450 respectively. As per uster Standards the optimum yam showed good results for CV of count, CV of tenacity and thin places/km.
基金Technical Standards for the Development of Kinitted Jinlong Underw ear Factory of Guangdong Province,China(No.HX201303000008)
文摘Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.
