Predicting the Stitch Density of Finished Fabrics Using Weft Blended Grey Knit Fabrics

Stitch density is one of the critical quality parameters of knit fabrics. This parameter is closely related to other physical quality parameters like fabric weight, fabric tightness factor, fiber types, blend ratio, yarn diameter and linear density, and fabric structure. Selecting stitch density (wales per inch, course per inch) is essential to getting the appropriate fabric weight and desired quality. Usually, no rules or assumptions exist to get the desired stitch density in the finished fabric stage. Fifteen types of blended knit fabrics were prepared to conduct the study. The varying percentages of cotton, polyester, and elastane are incorporated in the blends. Regression analysis and regression ANOVA tests were done to predict the stitch density of finished fabrics. A suitable regression equation is established to get the desired results. The study also found that the stitch density value in the finished stage fabric decreases by approximately 15% compared to the stitch density in the grey fabric stage. This study will help the fabric manufacturers get the finished fabric stitch density in advance by utilizing the grey fabric stitch density data set. The author expects this research to benefit the knitting and dyeing industry, new researchers, and advanced researchers.

Studying the Effect of Polyester Fiber Blend Ratio and Pilling Cycle on Blended Knit Fabrics

Pilling is a severe concern for blended fabrics. The aesthetic look and smoothness are the buyers’ prime requirements. The main focus of the study was to see the pilling behavior from various percentages of polyester fiber blend ratio as well as the different pilling cycles on blended fabrics. The cotton, polyester, and elastane prepared the study fabrics. These fabrics are (90% Cotton/5% Polyester/5% Elastane, 90% Cotton/6% Polyester/4% Elastane, 90% Cotton/7% Polyester/3% Elastane, 90% Cotton/8% Polyester/2% Elastane, and 90% Cotton/9% Polyester/1% Elastane, 85% Cotton/10% Polyester/5% Elastane, 85% Cotton/11% Polyester/4% Elastane, 85% Cotton/12% Polyester/3% Elastane, 85% Cotton/13% Polyester/2% Elastane, and 85% Cotton/ 14% Polyester/1% Elastane, 80% Cotton/15% Polyester/5% Elastane, 80% Cotton/16% Polyester/4% Elastane, 80% Cotton/17% Polyester/3% Elastane, 80% Cotton/18% Polyester/2% Elastane, and 80% Cotton/19% Polyester/1% Elastane). The selected polyester blend ratios were 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18% and 19% respectively. The study used the Martindale pilling tester with 2000, 5000, and 7000 cycles, respectively. The evaluation followed the ISO 12945-2:2000. The study findings are that the polyester fiber blend ratio did not influence the pilling grade on blended fabrics for pilling cycles 2000, and the pilling grade remained constant at 4 - 5. The pilling grade started to deteriorate in pilling cycle 5000 for the fabrics 85%C/10%P/5%E, 85%C/11%P/4%E, 85%C/12%P/3%E, 85%C/ 13%P/2%E, 85%C/14%P/1%E showed the pilling grade 4, and the fabrics made from 80%C/15%P/5%E, 80%C/16%P/4%E, 80%C/17%P/3%E, 80%C/ 18%P/2%E, 80%C/19%P/1%E showed the pilling grade 4, 3, 3, 3, and 3 respectively. For the pilling cycles 7000, the pilling grade further deteriorated for the fabrics 80%C/15%P/5%E, 80%C/16%P/4%E, 80%C/17%P/3%E, 80%C/ 18%P/2%E, 80%C/19%P/1%E showed the pilling grade 3, 3, 2, 2, and 2 respectively. The study finds the dominance of polyester fiber throughout the experiment. The author hopes this study’s outcome will help new researchers, advanced researchers, and the textile industry’s sustainable development research and development team.

Finishing Effect on Warmth Property of Cotton/Kapok Blended Knitted Fabric

Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.

Study on the pre-process technology of knitted fabric made of cotton/vinylon blended hollow yarn by single-factor experiments

以棉／维纶混纺空心纱为研究对象，探讨了针织双罗纹织物在前处理过程中，精练剂浓度、氧漂稳定剂浓度、浴比、Na2SiO3浓度、NaOH浓度、H2O2浓度、煮漂时间、煮漂温度8个因素对针织物白度、毛细效应、顶破强力的关系。实验结果显示：NaOH浓度、H2O2浓度、煮漂时间和煮漂温度是影响织物前处理效果的主要因素，精练剂浓度、氧漂稳定刑浓度、浴比、Na2SiO3浓度对处理结果的影响则相对较小。

STUDY OF FLAME RETARDING FINISH OF POLYPROPYLENE / VISCOSE BLEND FABRICS

The combustion mechanisms of PP / Viscose blend fabrics are briefly discussed, and the factors affecting flame retarding(FR) effect are analyzed. Apart from this, the choice of processes of FR finish is also discussed in this paper. Other factors such as coating add-on, curing temperature and time are studied too. The results show that the factors above all have different extent of influence upon FR effect.

Predicting Bursting Strength Behavior of Weft Knitted Fabrics Using Various Percentages of Cotton, Polyester, and Spandex Fibers

The bursting strength is an essential quality parameter of knit fabric. The fabric structure, weight, types of fibers, and fiber blend proportion influence the bursting strength parameter. The tenacity of polyester fiber is better than cotton and spandex. The study focused on predicting knit fabric bursting strength test value using different fibers (cotton, polyester, and spandex) with varying percentages of the blend ratio. This study used fifteen categories of blended fabrics. The Pearson Correlation and the hypothetical ANOVA regression analysis were conducted to do the statistical significance test. The experimental result reveals that the bursting strength test result increased with the increased percentage of polyester and suggested a suitable regression equation. The dominance of the polyester fiber was observed throughout the experiment, i.e., the higher the polyester blend proportion, the higher the bursting strength value. The inclusion of polyester in blends can reduce the cost of fabric. The developed prediction model or equation can help the fabric manufacturer make appropriate decisions regarding getting the expected bursting strength. The researcher hopes that the findings from this study will motivate new researchers, advanced researchers, and the textile manufacturing industry.

An Investigation on Properties of PU/PVC Blended Porous Films

Structure and properties of PU/PVC blended film are fnvestlgated in the work. The experimental results show that the PU/PVC blended film has a multiplex poroslty strueture, and their structure and properties vary with PVC content in the blended film. The correlation and regresslon between the properties and PVC content are listed in the paper.

阻燃腈纶/酚醛树脂纤维织物的制备及其性能

为解决酚醛树脂纤维因强力低、纯纺难度大等限制其在服用领域发展的问题,以20∶80、40∶60、60∶40和80∶20的4种比例将酚醛树脂纤维与阻燃腈纶混纺,以平纹组织结构进行织物的开发与制备,并表征织物的阻燃性能及服用性能。结果表明:所开发的4种混纺比例织物的损毁长度均小于10 cm,无阴燃和熔融滴落现象;随着酚醛树脂纤维比例的增加,织物续燃时间逐渐减少,拉伸断裂强力逐渐下降,透气性能逐渐降低;且混纺比为40∶60、60∶40和80∶20的酚醛树脂纤维与阻燃腈纶混纺织物的热阻、导湿性和耐磨性并无显著性差异;酚醛树脂纤维与阻燃腈纶混纺比为40∶60和60∶40织物满足阻燃纺织品的需求,且服用性能好,制备的织物可为后续开发酚醛树脂服用产品提供参考和借鉴。

基于国家教学资源库的服用面料设计课程混合式教学实践

混合式教学是助推教育信息化、推进纺织强国高端技能人才培养、提升高校教育质量内涵式发展的有利教学模式。该服用面料设计课程依托国家职业教育纺织品设计专业教学资源库(简称国家教育资源库),创新面料设计真实情境,运用多种教学方法和策略,开展线上与线下混合式教学改革实践,分享教学设计、教学组织与实施案例;通过教师引导,把学习者由浅入深地引向深度学习,提升学生学习兴趣和成效。从素材资源的匹配度和教学设计合理性分析存在的问题,并从加强校企合作共建力度、优化数字化素材资源、加强教师信息化教学能力提出优化措施。

抗菌热湿舒适复合功能服用面料的性能

为开发热湿条件下穿着健康舒适的抗菌服用面料,以桑蚕丝为经纱,蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维、天丝、蜂窝抗紫外涤纶纤维、蜂窝玉石涤纶纤维等混纺为纬纱,通过改变纬纱种类、织物组织及纬密等设计并试织了A、B两个系列共16种织物;并对其吸湿速干、抗菌与热传递性能等进行测试,运用模糊综合分析法对其抗菌性能、热湿舒适性进行评价。结果表明:当纬纱中含有天丝成分时织物吸湿速干性能更佳,随着织物组织浮长变短、纬密增大,其吸湿速干性能整体呈下降趋势;织物具有优良的抗菌性,纬纱中蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维含量越高,织物抗菌性能越好。织物热阻随着纬纱中天丝含量增加而减小,当含有蜂窝玉石涤纶纤维时织物热传递性能最佳;组织浮长更短的织物热传递性能更优。模糊综合分析结果表明,A系列中以天丝蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维蜂窝抗紫外涤纶纤维(306010)为纬纱并以16枚加强纬缎织造的织物抗菌热湿舒适性能最佳,B系列中纬密为46根cm时织物抗菌热湿舒适性能最佳。

壳聚糖基膨胀阻燃涤纶/棉混纺织物的制备及其性能

为得到阻燃且满足实际应用需求的涤纶/棉混纺织物(T/C),选用亚磷酸化壳聚糖(PCS)和γ-哌嗪基丙基甲基二甲氧基硅烷(GP-108)制备阻燃整理剂(PCS/GP),通过一步浸渍法对涤纶/棉混纺织物进行整理,并研究其微观表面形貌、热稳定性能、阻燃性能、拉伸性能以及白度等。结果表明:PCS/GP成功在涤纶/棉混纺织物表面沉积成膜,包裹住涤纶/棉纤维;T/C-PCS/GP呈现典型的涤纶/棉混纺织物二步热降解过程,在700℃时保留有28.5%的残炭量,说明PCS/GP提高了阻燃涤纶/棉混纺织物在高温区的热稳定性能;T/C-PCS/GP的LOI值提升至26.5%,实现了垂直燃烧测试中的离火自熄,残炭扫描电镜照片表明,PCS/GP的沉积改善了涤纶/棉混纺织物燃烧时存在的“支架”效应;T/C-PCS/GP的热释放速率峰值和火灾蔓延指数较T/C分别降低了20%和40%,表明其火灾危险性大幅度降低;锥形量热测试后的残炭电镜照片表明,T/C-PCS/GP能够保留完整的织物编织结构,残炭表面存在明显的膨胀炭层,与垂直燃烧测试结果相符;热重红外测试结果表明,T/C-PCS/GP分解提前,主要影响棉组分热降解并促进其成炭,而高温区的红外谱图表明,在致密炭层的保护下,T/C-PCS/GP的热降解得到抑制。T/C-PCS/GP与T/C-PCS相比,断裂强力提升17%,其断裂强力与T/C的断裂强力相差不大;同时,GP-108的使用改善了T/C-PCS的黄变问题,提升了T/C-PCS/GP的白度。然而,阻燃样品耐久性较差,需要后续改进。

BCI棉/再生涤混纺针织织物染整工艺

采用活性染料/分散染料对BCI棉/再生涤混纺针织织物进行染色,比较不同染色工艺的得色效果、耐汗渍色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度以及耐光色牢度等指标,筛选BCI棉/再生涤混纺针织织物的大生产工艺,从而减少实际大生产时染色带来废水对环境造成的污染,以优化染色质量与成本。实验结果表明:选择方案4#进行印染加工更加节约用水成本、时间成本、用电成本。染色织物耐干摩擦色牢度可达4~5级,耐湿摩擦色牢度可达3~4级,耐皂洗色牢度可达4~5级,耐汗渍色牢度达到4~5级,具有生产可行性。

精梳工艺路线对涤棉混纺面料风格影响

为了探讨不同精梳加工路线对涤棉混纺面料风格的影响,将涤纶与棉纤维分别精梳后按照65/35进行混纺制成涤棉混纺精梳纱,同时将普梳涤纶与精梳后的棉纤维进行混纺制成涤棉混纺半精梳纱。将涤棉混纺精梳纱和涤棉混纺半精梳纱利用相同的织造及染整工艺分别制成涤棉混纺精梳面料和涤棉混纺半精梳面料,利用KES织物风格仪测试两种面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面等风格特征。结果表明:与涤棉混纺半精梳面料相比,涤棉混纺精梳面料的各风格特征均有改善,其中变化最显著指标:抗弯刚度减小20%,弯曲滞后距减小17%,压缩比功减小22%,摩擦因数波动减小18%。认为:涤棉混纺精梳面料比涤棉混纺半精梳面料具有更好的柔软性、光滑性、回弹性。

磷-氮-硅协同阻燃/抗菌涤棉织物的制备与性能

为实现涤棉织物的阻燃/抗菌协同整理,以3-氨丙基三乙氧基硅烷(APTES)和9,10-二氢-9-氧杂-10-磷杂菲-10-氧化物(DOPO)为反应物,分别合成了八氨丙基八硅倍半氧烷和2-氯乙基DOPO,通过轧烘焙方法将其整理到涤棉织物上,并对其进行氯化处理。结果表明:阻燃/抗菌整理涤棉织物的阻燃等级达到B1级;整理后未氯化的织物在30 min接触时间内对金黄葡萄球菌和大肠埃希菌的对数减少值分别达到2.56 log和2.06 log,而经氯化处理后其能够在1 min的接触时间内杀灭接种的细菌,表现出迅速且优异的抗菌性能。

含棉与再生纤维素纤维织物的定量分析方法

采用盐酸法探讨含棉与再生纤维素织物的定量分析方法,通过实例探究影响纤维含量测定的因素及注意事项。结果表明,需明确再生纤维素纤维完全溶解的试验条件;试验时同时做一组全棉织物空白样,确定其d值;交织或拼接类织物中,应对含有再生纤维素纤维的部分进行拆分,减少棉纤维的损伤。选用合适的试验方法可以较准确地测定棉与再生纤维素纤维的含量。

羊毛混纺面料生产流程的碳图谱建模与应用

纺织行业绿色转型从原材料生产、纺纱、织造、染整到最终产品循环供应网络的链路长、碳足迹流向和分布极为复杂,面向全生命周期的绿色化碳追溯和管理非常困难。以羊毛混纺面料生产为研究对象,采用流程挖掘和图谱等工业智能技术,提出一种面料生产的碳图谱建模、碳排放量化和应用方法。首先,建立羊毛混纺面料各级工序流程中能量流、物料流、人员流和碳流4个维度的生产流程工序级别碳排放量化模型;其次,在量化模型基础上提出了一种羊毛混纺面料生产流程知识的碳图谱建模方法,可实现以订单为线索的面料生产流程工序碳排放计算;最后,利用流程挖掘技术生成直接跟随图,可视分析面料生产过程的全局碳排放分布与流向,可实现全局和局部碳排放多角度监测。以上海某纺织企业生产流程为例,进一步验证本文所提出的羊毛混纺面料生产流程碳排放图谱的有效性,以期为企业的碳减排工作提供指导和决策参考。

基于混纺平纹织物的静电吸附式抓取技术研究

为了实现机械手更好地对混纺平纹织物进行抓取,课题组研究了静电吸附式抓取技术。首先,通过分析混纺平纹织物结构特性,建立混纺平纹织物三维模型与等效介电常数计算模型,并对织物在电场中受力情况进行研究;其次,结合Maxwell应力张量计算方法,建立二维静电吸附力模型,研究不同配置类型的静电极板产生的吸附力大小,用于指导静电极板的配置结构设计。结果表明:织物的等效介电常数与各纤维的体积分数和分布形态有关;织物所受到的静电吸附力随极板所施电压的增加而增大,并与其平方成正比,验证了使用静电吸附式抓取织物的有效性;通过对不同配置类型极板的吸附效果的对比,确定了最优的极板结构。该研究为静电吸附式技术在服装面料抓取领域中的应用提供了重要参考。

废旧涤/棉混纺织物回收再利用研究进展

随着人们生活水平不断提升,服装更换周期缩短,废旧纺织品的处理问题日益凸显。文章针对目前废旧涤/棉混纺织物量大但回收利用率低的现状,主要介绍了此类织物回收再利用的常用方法,详细阐述了醇解法、离子液体法、水热法分离涤棉的研究进展,并对回收利用废旧涤棉纺织品的前景进行了展望。

聚乳酸/聚酮共混织物的开发与设计

采用聚乳酸/聚酮共混纤维设计小提花织物,从织物风格、舒适性能、外观保持性等方面探讨两种不同聚酮纤维含量共混纤维织物的性能。结果表明,两种织物厚度和面密度基本相同,随着聚酮纤维含量的提高,织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性变好,而耐磨性下降,透气性变差。设计的纯纺小提花织物轻薄、光泽感强、耐磨性好、透气性好,适用于夏季轻薄织物、女士裙装、童装、男士衬衣等。

植酸/壳聚糖对涤纶/棉混纺织物的协同阻燃整理

针对涤纶/棉混纺织物的易燃问题,采用植酸(PA)和壳聚糖(CS)构成膨胀阻燃体系,通过浸渍烘焙法对涤纶/棉混纺织物进行阻燃整理,并对整理前后织物的化学结构、表面形貌、热稳定性、燃烧行为、力学性能及耐水洗性等进行探究。通过工艺调控与优化,获得最佳阻燃整理工艺:烘焙温度160℃,烘焙时间120 s,CS质量浓度30 g/L,PA质量浓度400 g/L。经过阻燃整理后,所得涤纶/棉混纺织物的极限氧指数值由17.8%上升到28.7%,达到难燃级别;热重结果表明,相较于原涤纶/棉混纺织物,阻燃涤纶/棉混纺织物的分解速率下降,高温热稳定性显著提高,在氮气气氛下,800℃时残炭率提高到25%以上;阻燃涤纶/棉混纺织物的最大热释放速率由原涤纶/棉混纺织物的145.86 kW/m^(2)下降到96.96 kW/m^(2),总热释放量由原涤纶/棉混纺织物的2.75 MJ/m^(2)下降到2.06 MJ/m^(2);PA和CS在织物表面构成膨胀阻燃涂层,显著提高了织物的阻燃性能。