Research of Dyeing Thermodynamics and Supramolecular Structure of Luteolin on Wool Fabric

Natural dyestuff of luteolin was isolated and used to dye wool fabric in this paper. Ethanol extraction and high-speed countercurrent chromatography (HSCCC) were used to extract and purify the luteolin from the peanut shell, and the structure of the isolated luteolin was characterized with FTIR techniques. The interaction between dyestuff and fiber was preliminarily discussed through thermodynamic study and supramolecular structure simulation to explain the intrinsic reasons why the color fastness was low when luteolin was applied to dyeing wool fabric. The extraction condition and purification parameter were as follows: 65% ethanol, ratio of material to liquid 1:20, 80°C, 3 h, chloroform-methanol-water (4/3/2, V/V), 800 rmp/min, 2.0 Mkpa, 0.5 mL/ min and 280 nm. The results of dyeing thermodynamics showed that the sorption isotherm of luteolin on wool fabric was consistent with Nernst model and similar to the disperse dyestuff. With molecular simulation, luteolin and glycin composed 8 stable complexes whose Laplacian values all were greater than 0, which suggested typical hydrogen bonds existing. The complex with three hydrogen bonds was proved the most stable. Both studies on thermodynamics and supramolecular simulation revealed that luteolin on wool fabric mainly depended on the weak hydrogen bonds interaction that determined the low dyefastness.

Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.

Synthesis of Novel Acid Dyes with Coumarin Moiety and Their Utilization for Dyeing Wool and Silk Fabrics

This article describes the synthesis of some novel coumarin compounds to use as acid dyes by using compounds 1 - 4 as starting materials, which were prepared by interaction of 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde with ethyl 3-oxobutanoate, diethylmalonate, 4-nitrobenzenediazonium chloride and 4-sulfobenzenediazonium chloride, respectively. Compound 1 reacted with bromine and 2-cyanoacetohydrazide to give phenacyl bromide derivative 5 and 2-cyanoacetohydrazone derivative 6, respectively. Coupling of compound 6 with equimolar amount of 2-sulfo-4-((4-sulfophenyl) diazenyl)benzenediazonium chloride gave coumarin acid dye 8. Phenacyl bromide derivative 5 re-acted with potassium cyanide in refluxing ethanol to produce compound 7, which on coupling with equimolar amount of 8-hydroxy-6-sulfonaphthalene-2-diazonium chloride and 8-hydroxy-3,6-disulfonaphthalene-1-diazonium chloride gave coumarin acid dyes 9 and 10, respectively. Interaction of compound 2 with 2-amino-5-((4-sulfophenyl)diazenyl)benzenesulfonic acid, benzene-1,4-diamine and 3,3’-dimethoxy-[1,1’-biphenyl]-4,4’-diamine in refluxing ethanol afforded compounds 11, 12 and 14, respectively. Diazonium sulphate of compounds 12 and 14 coupling with 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid gave compounds 13 and 15, respectively. Cyclocondensation of compound 3 with ethyl 3-oxobutanoate, diethyl malonate and malononitrile afforded derivatives of 3-acetyl-2H-chromen-2-one 16, ethyl 2-oxo-2H-chromene-3-carboxylate 17 and 2-imino-2H-chromene-3-carbonitrile 18, respectively. Reaction of sodium benzenesulfonate derivative 4 with ethyl 3-oxobutanoate and hydrazine hydrate gave compounds 19 and 20, respectively. The structures of the newly synthesized compounds were confirmed by elemental analysis, UV/ VIS, IR, 1H NMR and Ms spectral data. The suitability of the prepared dyestuffs for dyeing of wool and silk fabrics has been investigated. The dyed fabric shows good light fastness, very good rubbing, perspiration, washing and excellent sublimation fastness. These dyes have been color shade from blue to violet with very good depth and levelness on fabrics. The dye bath exhaustion and fixation on fabric has been found to be very good.

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Using the forearm test, the prickle of 26 commercially available light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics and 7 other fiber fabrics were studied under (24±1)℃ temperature and (65±5)% RH conditions. The surface fiber diameter of part of the wool fabrics was measured using a microscope. It was found that most of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics gave a prickle sensation under the above conditions. The prickle sensation was significantly correlated with the mean fiber diameter of the surface hairiness. It was also found that the prickle of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics was significantly correlated with the number of surface fibers which were coarser than 26 μm diameter.

The Antimicrobial Activity of Wool Fabrics Treated with Crosslinking Agents and Polyhexamethylene Biguanide

In this study,we used citric acid(CA)as a crosslinking agent,mixed with polyhexamethylene biguanide,to perform a pad-dry-cure treatment on wool fabrics to study its antimicrobial effects and physical properties.

Dyeing Characteristics of Chitosan Biguanidine Hydrochloride Treated Wool Fabrics

Chitosan biguanidine hydrochloride(CGH) has been synthesized by the guanidineylation reaction of chitosan with dicyandiamide.The structures of CGH were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and 13CNMR spectra.In this paper,we used citric acid(CA) as a crosslinking agent,mixed with CGH to perform a pad-drycure treatment on wool fabric to study reaction mechanism during crosslinking with the help of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) and scanning electron microscopy(SEM).Dyeing characteristics of CGH treated wool fabric was assessed.The effects of CGH concentration,curing temperature,dipping time,pH value on color yield of reactive dyes on wool fibres were investigated.Fastness properties of the modified wool fabric to laundering and crocking have also been discussed.Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) showed that CA produce esterification with the-OH group of the wool and transamidation with the-NH2 group of the CGH to form a crosslink.Scanning electron microscopy(SEM) analysis showed the CGH firmly attached to the surface of wool fibre.It was found that the CGH pretreated wool fabrics had significantly improved dyeability characteristics.It is worthwhile to mention that the CGH treated samples have antibacterial potential due to the antibacterial property of chitosan molecules and guanidinium salts.

Ultrasonic assisted dyeing:Dyeing of wool fabrics as Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour. a natural dye

The use of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.in the dyeing of leather and silk have been some 2000 years in China as the natural coloration.Power ultrasound has been explored in the textile coloration.This article aimed at researching the ultrasonic efficiency for dyeing wool fabric with Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.dye in comparison with conventional heating.We get a significant improvement in the color strength values(K/S) at the same condition.The fastness and extent properties of the fabrics treated by ultrasonic were better than those obtained when treated by conventional heating.

Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.

轻薄型精纺纯毛可机洗毛织物的开发

为实现毛织物可机洗、提升其服用性能和尺寸稳定性,解决毛织物不易护理的问题,通过分析对比丝光羊毛与普通羊毛纤维的表面形貌和染色性能的差异,针对性地设计纺纱、织造和整理各道工艺参数,纺制出轻薄型普通羊毛和丝光羊毛织物,并对2种织物的主要物理指标和水洗尺寸变化率进行测试与分析。结果表明:与普通羊毛相比,丝光羊毛纤维的鳞片层基本被剥除,纤维整体呈现均匀、光滑的外观,染料上染百分率高,颜色更浓深;纺制出的轻薄型丝光羊毛织物水洗尺寸变化率满足GB/T 26382—2011《精梳毛织品》中可机洗类产品水洗尺寸变化率考核指标要求,属于可机洗类产品,实现了产品开发预期目标。

羊毛织物的银杏黄素染色

银杏黄素对羊毛织物染色效果很好,生成的颜色产物在430 nm处有特征吸收峰。银杏黄素对羊毛织物的直接染色最佳工艺为:银杏黄素质量分数4%(omf),pH=5,染色温度80℃,染色时间60 min。采用媒染特别是后媒染工艺可起到增色效果,染色羊毛织物的色牢度可达到4级以上,比直接染色提高了1级以上,且染色织物具有较强的抗菌和防紫外线功效,UPF值达40以上,紫外线透过率小于5%,经20次水洗后抗菌率仍高于30%。

基于直方图均衡化的毛织物服装印花缺陷检测

为了保证毛织物印花服装的生产质量,提出基于直方图均衡化的毛织物服装印花缺陷检测方法。设置毛织物服装印花不同缺陷特征作为检测标准,利用光学成像原理采集毛织物服装印花图像,通过颜色转换、图像滤波等步骤,实现初始印花图像的预处理;利用直方图均衡化技术提取服装印花图像特征,通过特征匹配确定缺陷状态与类型,实现毛织物服装印花缺陷的检测。测试结果表明,优化设计方法得出缺陷面积检测误差的平均值为0.09 mm^(2),缺陷类型检测错误率较低。

氧化蛋白酶防毡缩整理对羊毛染色性能的影响

为了改善羊毛织物毡缩性能,用双氧水预处理与蛋白酶相结合的方法对羊毛织物进行防毡缩整理,分析整理后织物毡缩性能、强力及染色性能的变化。通过对染色性能相关指标的测试,探讨防毡缩整理对羊毛上染率、染色深度和摩擦色牢度的影响;分析防毡缩整理对羊毛光泽的影响。结果表明,整理可以有效提高羊毛织物的防毡缩性能,染色深度和摩擦色牢度都得到一定程度的提高,在同等染色率的条件下,可以节约染色时间。

基于菠萝蛋白酶的羊毛生物酶法防毡缩整理

针对微生物蛋白酶在羊毛酶法防毡缩整理过程中易造成羊毛纤维损伤的问题,本文采用植物蛋白酶(菠萝蛋白酶)与预处理结合的工艺对羊毛织物进行防毡缩整理。结果表明,菠萝蛋白酶在预处理的基础上能够有效改善羊毛织物的防毡缩性能,整理后的织物毡缩率为5.29%,强力损失率为4.10%。通过扫描电镜、亚甲基蓝着色等表征方法综合判断,菠萝蛋白酶作用于羊毛鳞片层,进而实现在降低羊毛织物毡缩率的同时将强力损失率控制在一个较小的水平。

间隔织物-羊毛角蛋白气凝胶复合材料研究

采用羊毛角蛋白制备有机气凝胶,存在结构不稳定、力学性能较差等问题。为提升材料的性能,通过还原C法从废旧羊毛中提取R-角蛋白并制备角蛋白气凝胶,将特殊的三维立体结构经编间隔织物引入气凝胶中,开发出经编间隔织物增强废旧羊毛角蛋白气凝胶复合材料,并对废旧羊毛的溶解率、提取率以及材料的密度、力学及隔热性能进行测试与分析。结果表明,通过还原C法得到的羊毛溶解率为89.4%,R-角蛋白提取率为72.6%。复合材料的密度不超过28.23 mg/cm^(3),具备传统气凝胶低密的优良特性,同时经编间隔织物与角蛋白气凝胶原位复合后,材料的压缩性能显著提升,并仍具有良好的隔热性能。

毛型制服面料弹性测试对比与分析

为了探究含氨纶和聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯纤维/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PBT/PET)双组分复合弹性纤维制备的毛型制服面料之间的弹性差异,参照不同的弹性测试标准和不同的测试方法对毛型制服面料的弹性回复性能进行测试,比较面料组分、测试条件等对毛型制服面料弹性的影响。研究结果表明:在面料初始弹性相近的条件下,含PBT/PET双组分复合弹性纤维的毛型制服面料相较含氨纶型面料具有更好的弹性耐久性;随着反复拉伸次数增加,含氨纶面料和含PBT/PET双组分复合弹性弹性纤维面料弹性回复率下降,塑性变形率增加;当面料中弹性纤维含量一定时,面料中其他组分如涤纶、毛等组成纤维比例的差异会对面料的弹性差异造成一定影响;当测试选用的定伸长率或定负荷值小于屈服点对应值时,定伸长率值或定负荷值与屈服点对应值越接近,面料的塑性积累越多。

毛/涤制服面料产生极光后的光泽度变化率研究

为了探究毛/涤制服类织物极光强弱的有效评价指标,通过主客观相结合的方式,采用色差仪、织物光泽度仪等对已有极光区域和非极光区域织物的光泽及明度变化进行测试。研究表明,同一织物的极光和非极光区域均存在较为明显的明度差异和光泽度差异,极光与非极光区域的平均光泽度变化率的变化规律与人眼主观评价具有一致性,可以定量评价织物极光强弱,而明度差异可以定性说明织物光泽变化,但是和主观评价不具有一致性;极光具有明显方向性,测试样品的极光区域经向光泽度均高于纬向,应使用极光最明显方向的光泽度变化率进行定量考核。

羊毛针织物抗起毛起球剂的合成及应用

以聚酯多元醇(XCP-44、XCP-244)、聚醚多元醇(PPG)和2,4-甲苯二异氰酸酯(TDI)为原料,二羟甲基丙酸(DMPA)为亲水扩链剂,制备一种阴离子型水性聚氨酯抗起毛起球剂。通过单因素法优选出乳液合成和织物整理的最佳条件:R值为1.54,DMPA质量分数为5.3%;整理剂质量浓度为60 g/L,整理液pH为6~7,焙烘温度为150℃,焙烘时间为3 min。用红外光谱、粒径分析仪以及热重分析仪对合成产物进行了测试与表征,分别用扫描电镜和智能风格仪测试了整理织物的表面形貌以及手感。结果表明:合成的乳液粒径较小且分布均匀,热稳定性较好;经水性聚氨酯乳液整理织物的抗起毛起球效果达到3.5级,且手感较好。

羊毛混纺面料生产流程的碳图谱建模与应用

纺织行业绿色转型从原材料生产、纺纱、织造、染整到最终产品循环供应网络的链路长、碳足迹流向和分布极为复杂,面向全生命周期的绿色化碳追溯和管理非常困难。以羊毛混纺面料生产为研究对象,采用流程挖掘和图谱等工业智能技术,提出一种面料生产的碳图谱建模、碳排放量化和应用方法。首先,建立羊毛混纺面料各级工序流程中能量流、物料流、人员流和碳流4个维度的生产流程工序级别碳排放量化模型;其次,在量化模型基础上提出了一种羊毛混纺面料生产流程知识的碳图谱建模方法,可实现以订单为线索的面料生产流程工序碳排放计算;最后,利用流程挖掘技术生成直接跟随图,可视分析面料生产过程的全局碳排放分布与流向,可实现全局和局部碳排放多角度监测。以上海某纺织企业生产流程为例,进一步验证本文所提出的羊毛混纺面料生产流程碳排放图谱的有效性,以期为企业的碳减排工作提供指导和决策参考。