In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some ...In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and improved BOUSSINESQ-type and SERRE-GREEN-NAGHDI equations.Finally,we propose also a unified modelling framework which incorporates several well-known and some less known dispersive wave models.The present manuscript is the first part of a series of two papers.The second part will be devoted to the numerical discretization of a practically important model on moving adaptive grids.展开更多
The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations（NSWEs） and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through compar...The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations（NSWEs） and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through comparing the present numerical results with analytical solutions and laboratory measurements available for propagation and run-up of single solitary wave. Two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights and variable separation distance of two crests were used as the incoming wave on the open boundary at the toe of a slope beach. The run-ups of the first wave and the second wave with different separation distances were investigated. It is found that the run-up of the first wave does not change with the separation distance and the run-up of the second wave is affected slightly by the separation distance when the separation distance is gradually shortening. The ratio of the maximum run-up of the second wave to one of the first wave is related to the separation distance as well as wave height and slope. The run-ups of double solitary waves were compared with the linearly superposed results of two individual solitary-wave run-ups. The comparison reveals that linear superposition gives reasonable prediction when the separation distance is large, but it may overestimate the actual run-up when two waves are close.展开更多
基金This research was supported by RSCF project No 14-17-00219.D.Mitsotakis was supported by the Marsden Fund administered by the Royal Society of New Zealand.
文摘In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and improved BOUSSINESQ-type and SERRE-GREEN-NAGHDI equations.Finally,we propose also a unified modelling framework which incorporates several well-known and some less known dispersive wave models.The present manuscript is the first part of a series of two papers.The second part will be devoted to the numerical discretization of a practically important model on moving adaptive grids.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51379123)the Natural Science Foundation of Shanghai Municipality(Grant No.11ZR1418200)the Shanghai Water Authority and the State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering,Shanghai Jiao Tong University(Grant No.GKZD010063)
文摘The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations（NSWEs） and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through comparing the present numerical results with analytical solutions and laboratory measurements available for propagation and run-up of single solitary wave. Two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights and variable separation distance of two crests were used as the incoming wave on the open boundary at the toe of a slope beach. The run-ups of the first wave and the second wave with different separation distances were investigated. It is found that the run-up of the first wave does not change with the separation distance and the run-up of the second wave is affected slightly by the separation distance when the separation distance is gradually shortening. The ratio of the maximum run-up of the second wave to one of the first wave is related to the separation distance as well as wave height and slope. The run-ups of double solitary waves were compared with the linearly superposed results of two individual solitary-wave run-ups. The comparison reveals that linear superposition gives reasonable prediction when the separation distance is large, but it may overestimate the actual run-up when two waves are close.
