Simulation of Horizontal-Two-Dimension Focused Waves Using A Two-Layer Boussinesq-Type Model

Accurate simulation of the horizontal-two-dimension(H2D)focused wave group in deep water requires high accuracy of a numerical model.The two-layer Boussinesq-type model(Liu and Fang,2016;Liu et al.,2018)with the highest spatial derivative of 2 has high accuracy in both linear and nonlinear properties.Based on the further development of the velocity equations(Liu et al.,2023),the H2D numerical model for water waves is established with the prediction-correction-iteration model in the finite difference method,and a composite fourth-order Adams-Bashforth-Moulton scheme is used for time integration.The wave generation method proposed by Hsiao et al.(2005)is applied and calibrated in this H2D model.The numerical calculations lead to the following three main conclusions:First,compared with the analytical solution of Stokes linear waves,the calculated velocity profiles show higher accuracy by using the improved velocity formulas.Second,the simulations of the focused multidirectional wave group are carried out,and good agreements are found,demonstrating that the present H2D numerical model shows high accuracy in simulating focused multidirectional wave groups,and the effectiveness of the improved velocity formulas is also validated.Furthermore,the velocity profiles throughout the computational domain at the time of maximum wave crest are given.Finally,the FFT method is used to obtain the amplitude with different frequencies for several locations,and the changes of the wavelet energy spectrum at different locations are presented for several cases.

Nonlinear Dynamic Behaviors of A Floating Structure in Focused Waves

Floating structures are commonly seen in coastal and offshore engineering. They are often subjected to extreme waves and, therefore, their nonlinear dynamic behaviors are of great concern. In this paper, an in-house CFD code is developed to investigate the accurate prediction of nonlinear dynamic behaviors of a two-dimensional（2-D） box-shaped floating structure in focused waves. Computations are performed by an enhanced Constrained Interpolation Profile（CIP）-based Cartesian grid model, in which a more accurate VOF（Volume of Fluid） method, the THINC/SW scheme（THINC： tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing; SW： Slope Weighting）, is used for interface capturing. A focusing wave theory is used for the focused wave generation. The wave component of constant steepness is chosen. Comparisons between predictions and physical measurements show good agreement including body motions and free surface profiles. Although the overall agreement is good, some discrepancies are observed for impact pressure on the superstructure due to water on deck. The effect of grid resolution on the results is checked. With a fine grid, no obvious improvement is seen in the global body motions and impact pressures due to water on deck. It is concluded that highly nonlinear phenomena, such as distorted free surface, large-amplitude body motions, and violent impact flow, have been predicted successfully.

Numerical Study of the High-Frequency Wave Loads and Ringing Response of A Bottom-Hinged Vertical Cylinder in Focused Waves

This paper presents a numerical study on the high-frequency wave loads and ringing response of offshore wind turbine foundations exposed to moderately steep transient water waves.Input wave groups are generated by the technique of frequency-focusing,and the numerical simulation of focused waves is based on the NewWave model and a Fourier time-stepping procedure.The proposed model is validated by comparison with the published laboratory data.In respect of both the wave elevations and the underlying water particle kinematics,the numerical results are in excellent agreement with the experimental data.Furthermore,the local evolution of power spectra and the transfer of energy into higher frequencies can be clearly identified.Then the generalized FNV theory and Rainey’s model are applied respectively to calculate the nonlinear wave loads on a bottom-hinged vertical cylinder in focused waves.Resonant ringing response excited by the nonlinear high-frequency wave loads is found in the numerical simulation when frequency ratios(natural frequency of the structure to peak frequency of wave spectra)are equal to 3–5.Dynamic amplification factor of ringing response is also investigated for different dynamic properties(natural frequency and damping ratio)of the structure.

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF PROPAGATION AND BREAKING PROCESSES OF A FOCUSED WAVES GROUP

A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is developed to study the focused waves group propagation and the consequent breaking processes. The numerical model is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes （PANS） equations, with the standard k - c turbulence model to simulate the turbulence effects. To track the complicated and broken free-surface, the Volume Of Fluid （VOF） method is employed. The numerical model combines the ＂Partial Cell Treatment （PCT）＂ method with the ＂Locally Relative Stationary （LRS）＂ concept to treat the moving wave paddle so that various waves can be generated directly in a fixed Cartesian grid system. The theoretical results of the linear and nonlinear waves are used to validate the numerical wave flume firstly, and then a plunging breaking wave created by a focused waves group is simulated. The numerical results are compared to the experimental data and other simulation results, with very good agreements. The turbulence intensity, the flow field and the energy dissipation in the breaking processes are analyzed based on the numerical results. It is shown that the present numerical model is efficient and accurate for studying the waves group generation, the waves packet propagation, and the wave breaking processes.

Influences of Floater Motion on Gap Resonance Triggered by Focused Wave Groups

The current study investigates the hydrodynamic characteristics of gap resonance within a narrow gap formed by two adjacent boxes subjected to incident focused transient wave groups.A two-dimensional(2D)numerical wave tank based on the OpenFOAM package is utilized for this purpose.The weather-side box is fixed while the lee-side box is allowed to heave freely under wave actions.The effects of the focused wave amplitude and spectral peak period on the wave amplification within the gap,motion of the lee-side box,and wave forces(including horizontal and vertical wave forces)acting on each box are systematically examined.For comparison,another structural layout consisting of two fixed boxes is also considered.The results reveal that the release of the heave degree of freedom(DoF)of the lee-side box results in remarkably distinct resonance features.In the heave-box system,both its fluid resonant period and the period corresponding to the maximum heave displacement of the lee-side box are significantly larger(i.e.,1.6-1.7 times)than the fluid resonant period of the fixed-box system.However,the wave amplification factor inside the gap in the heave-box system is significantly lower than that in the fixed-box one.Both the variations of the maximum horizontal and vertical wave forces with the spectral peak period and their magnitudes are also significantly different between the two structural systems.

An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depths

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Enlerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The botmdary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, an artificial damping zone is used to prevent wave reflection back into the computational domain. Using the image Green function in the whole fluid domain, the integrations on the two lateral walls and bottom are excluded. The simulation results on extreme wave elevations in finite and infinite water-depths are compared with experimental results and second-order analytical solutions respectively. The wave kinematics is also discussed in the present study.

Efficient Focusing Models for Generation of Freak Waves

Four focusing models for generation of freak waves are presented. An extreme wave focusing model is presented on the basis of the enhanced High-Order Spectral （HOS） method and the importance of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction is evaluated by comparison of the calculated results with experimental and theoretical data. Based on the modification of the Longuet-Higgins model, four wave models for generation of freak waves （a. extreme wave model ＋ random wave model; b. extreme wave model ＋ regular wave model; e. phase interval modulation wave focusing model; d. number modulation wave focusing model with the same phase） are proposed. By use of different energy distribution techniques in the four models, freak wave events are obtained with different Hmax/Hs in finite space and time.

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper, a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral （HOS） method with a non-periodic boundary. A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method. Based on the numerical model, the effects of wave parameters, such as the assumed focused amplitude, the central frequency, the frequency bandwidth, the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave, the maximum generated wave crest, and the shifting of the focusing point, are numerically investigated. Especially, the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized. The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave, the central frequency, and the wave amplitude distribution type. The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves. Generally, it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points, implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing, especially for 2D wave. In 3D wave groups, a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.

Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distribution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced by wave directionality and that the breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.

Numerical Study of Two-Dimensional Focusing Waves

Two-dimensional focusing waves are generated and investigated by numerical method. The numerical model is developed by introducing the wave maker boundary on the high-order spectral （HOS） method proposed by Dommermuth and Yue in 1987 and verified by theoretical and experimental data. Some cases of focusing waves considering different parameters such as assumed focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum are generated. Characteristics of the focusing wave including surface elevations, the maximum crest, shift of focusing points and frequency spectra are discussed. The results show that the focusing wave characteristics are strongly affected by focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum.

Generation and Properties of Freak Waves in A Numerical Wave Tank

Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves.

An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves

Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.

Numerical Study of Influence of Currents on Nonlinear Focusing Waves

In this paper, a numerical model for nonlinear wave propagation in currents is formulated by a set of enhanced fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations with ambient currents. This model is verified by comparison with the published results. Then the influence of currents on nonlinear focusing waves is studied by use of the numerical model. It is found that the effect of currents on the surface elevations at the fecal location is negligible. Following currents can augment the maximum crest of focusing wave while decrease the focusing time, and vice versa for opposing currents. Furthermore, both opposing and following currents can shift the focal location forward relative to that in quiescent water.

Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in presence of wind

A numerical wave flume with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions is adopted to investigate the temporal characteristics of extreme waves in the presence of wind at various speeds. Incident wave trains are numerically generated by a piston-type wave maker, and the wind-excited pressure is introduced into dynamic boundary conditions using a pressure distribution over steep crests, as defined by Jeffreys＇ sheltering mechanism.A boundary value problem is solved by a higher-order boundary element method（HOBEM） and a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian time marching scheme. The proposed model is validated through comparison with published experimental data from a focused wave group. The influence of wind on extreme wave properties,including maximum extreme wave crest, focal position shift, and spectrum evolution, is also studied. To consider the effects of the wind-driven currents on a wave evolution, the simulations assume a uniform current over varying water depth. The results show that wind causes weak increases in the extreme wave crest, and makes the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide a comparison to demonstrate the shifts at focal points, considering the combined effects of the winds and the wind-driven currents.

Harmonic Energy Transfer for Extreme Waves in Current

Ning et al. （2015） developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and focal position were given. As its extension, harmonic energy transfer for focused waves in uniform current is studied using the proposed model by Ning et al. （2015） and Fast Fourier Transformation （FFT） technique in this study. It shows that the strong opposing currents, inducing partial wave blocking and reducing the extreme wave crest, make the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide an explanation to address the shifts of focal points in consideration of the combination effects of wave nonlinearity and current.

Numerical Comparison for Focused Wave Propagation Between the Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow and the Viscous Fluid Flow Models

Numerical simulations on focused wave propagation are carried out by using three types of numerical models,including the linear potential flow,the nonlinear potential flow and the viscous fluid flow models.The wave-wave interaction of the focused wave group with different frequency bands and input wave amplitudes is examined,by which the influence of free surface nonlinearity and fluid viscosity on the related phenomenon of focused wave is investigated.The significant influence of free surface nonlinearity on the characteristics of focused wave can be observed,including the increased focused wave crest,delayed focused time and downstream shift of focused position with the increase of input amplitude.It can plot the evident difference between the results of the nonlinear potential flow and linear potential flow models.However,only a little discrepancy between the nonlinear potential flow and viscous fluid flow models can be observed,implying the insignificant effect of fluid viscosity on focused wave behavior.Therefore,the nonlinear potential flow model is recommended for simulating the non-breaking focused wave problem in this study.

3-D simulations of freak waves based on high-order spectral method

Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the enhanced high-order spectral method,which solves the fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a free surface within periodic unbounded 3-D domains. The numerical model is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves. Laboratory-scale freak waves are observed with wave components having equal amplitudes. Investigations of the appearance and propagation of freak-wave events in a 3-D open wavefield defined by a directional wave spectrum are then realized.

Influence of mode conversions in the skull on transcranial focused ultrasound and temperature fields utilizing the wave field separation method： A numerical study

Transcranial focused ultrasound is a booming noninvasive therapy for brain stimuli. The Kelvin–Voigt equations are employed to calculate the sound field created by focusing a 256-element planar phased array through a monkey skull with the time-reversal method. Mode conversions between compressional and shear waves exist in the skull. Therefore, the wave field separation method is introduced to calculate the contributions of the two waves to the acoustic intensity and the heat source, respectively. The Pennes equation is used to depict the temperature field induced by ultrasound. Five computational models with the same incident angle of 0？and different distances from the focus for the skull and three computational models at different incident angles and the same distance from the focus for the skull are studied. Numerical results indicate that for all computational models, the acoustic intensity at the focus with mode conversions is 12.05%less than that without mode conversions on average. For the temperature rise, this percentage is 12.02%. Besides, an underestimation of both the acoustic intensity and the temperature rise in the skull tends to occur if mode conversions are ignored. However, if the incident angle exceeds 30？, the rules of the over-and under-estimation may be reversed. Moreover,shear waves contribute 20.54% of the acoustic intensity and 20.74% of the temperature rise in the skull on average for all computational models. The percentage of the temperature rise in the skull from shear waves declines with the increase of the duration of the ultrasound.

Green–Naghdi理论,B部分:深水波Green–Naghdi(GN)方程

“Green–Naghdi Theory,Part A:Green–Naghdi(GN)Equations for Shallow Water Waves”have investigated the linear dispersion relations of high-level GN equations in shallow water.In this study,the GN equations for deep water waves are investigated.In the traditional GN equations for deep water waves,the velocity distribution assumption involves only one representative wave number.Herein,a new velocity distribution shape function with multiple representative wave numbers is employed.Further,we have derived the three-dimensional GN equations and analyzed the linear dispersion relations of the GN-3 and GN-5 equations.In this study,the finite difference method is used to simulate focus waves in the time domain.Additionally,the GN-5 equations are used to validate the wave profile and horizontal velocity distribution along water depth for different focused waves.

Study on Transient Gap Resonance with Consideration of the Motion of Floating Body

In this paper, the transient fluid resonance phenomenon inside a narrow gap between two adjacent boxes excited by the incident focused waves with various spectral peak periods and focused wave amplitudes is simulated by utilizing the open-sourced computational fluid dynamics software, Open FOAM. The weather-side box is allowed to heave freely under the action of waves, and the lee-side box keeps fixed. This paper mainly focuses on how both the spectral peak period and the focused wave amplitude affect the free-surface amplification inside the gap, the motion of the weather-side box, and the wave loads(including the vertical and the horizontal wave forces) acting on both boxes.For comparison, another two-box system with both boxes fixed is also considered as a control group. It is found that the motion of the weather-side box significantly changes the characteristics of the transient gap resonance, and it would cause that the fluid resonant period becomes 1.4-1.6 times that of the two-box system with both boxes fixed.All the concerned physical quantities(i.e., the free-surface amplification in the gap, the motion of the weather-side box, the wave loads) are found to closely depend on both the spectral peak period and the focused wave amplitude.