A Novel Method for Forecasting Freak Wave Occurrence in A Short Crested Coastal Sea

In order to forecast the distribution of crest amplitudes and the occurrence of freak waves in a short crested coastal sea,a novel transformed linear simulation method is initially proposed in this paper.A Hermite transformation model expressed as a monotonic cubic polynomial serves as the foundation for the novel simulation technique.The wave crest amplitude exceedance probabilities of two sea states-one with a directional wave spectrum based on the measured wave elevation data at the Yura coast and the other with a typical directional JONSWAP wave spectrum-have been predicted using the novel simulation method that has been proposed.The likelihood that a particular critical wave crest amplitude will be exceeded is directly correlated with the probability that freak waves will occur.It is shown that the novel simulation approach suggested can provide predictions that are more precise than those obtained from the Rayleigh crest amplitude distribution model,the Jahns and Wheeler crest amplitude distribution model,or the conventional linear simulation method.This study also demonstrated that the nonlinear simulation method is less effective than the novel simulation method in terms of efficiency.

Experimental Study on the Wavelengths of Two-Dimensional and Three-Dimensional Freak Waves

Freak waves are commonly characterized by strong-nonlinearity, and the wave steepness, which is calculated from the wavelength, is a measure of the degree of the wave nonlinearity. Moreover, the wavelength can describe the locally spatial characteristics of freak waves. Generally, the wavelengths of freak waves are estimated from the dispersion relations of Stokes waves. This paper concerns whether this approach enables a consistent estimate of the wavelength of freak waves. The two-(unidirectional, long-crested) and three-dimensional(multidirectional, shortcrested) freak waves are simulated experimentally through the dispersive and directional focusing of component waves, and the wavelengths obtained from the surface elevations measured by the wave gauge array are compared with the results from the linear, 3rd-order and 5th-order Stokes wave theories. The comparison results suggest that the 3rd-order theory estimates the wavelengths of freak waves with higher accuracy than the linear and 5th-order theories. Furthermore, the results allow insights into the dominant factors. It is particularly noteworthy that the accuracy is likely to depend on the wave period, and that the wavelengths of longer period freak waves are overestimated but the wavelengths are underestimated for shorter period ones. In order to decrease the deviation, a modified formulation is presented to predict the wavelengths of two-and three-dimensional freak waves more accurately than the 3rd-order dispersion relation, by regression analysis. The normalized differences between the predicted and experimental results are over 50% smaller for the modified model suggested in this study compared with the 3rd-order dispersion relation.

Freak wave simulation based on nonlinear model and the research on the time-frequency energy spectrum of simulation results

VOF （volume of fluid） method has been used to make the numerical simulation of freak wave come true. The comparisons between the numerical results and linear theoretical results corresponding to Eq.（5） have been carried out to show that the numerical results have a better exhibition of nonlinear characteristics. Wavelet analysis method has been adopted to investigate the time-frequency energy spectrum of simulation freak waves and the results reveal strong nonlinear interaction enables energy to be transferred to high harmonics during the progress of its formation. Varying water depth can enhance the nonlinear interaction, making much more energy be transferred to high harmonics and freak waves with higher asymmetry be generated.

Efficient Focusing Models for Generation of Freak Waves

Four focusing models for generation of freak waves are presented. An extreme wave focusing model is presented on the basis of the enhanced High-Order Spectral （HOS） method and the importance of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction is evaluated by comparison of the calculated results with experimental and theoretical data. Based on the modification of the Longuet-Higgins model, four wave models for generation of freak waves （a. extreme wave model ＋ random wave model; b. extreme wave model ＋ regular wave model; e. phase interval modulation wave focusing model; d. number modulation wave focusing model with the same phase） are proposed. By use of different energy distribution techniques in the four models, freak wave events are obtained with different Hmax/Hs in finite space and time.

Numerical simulation and mechanism analysis of freak waves

A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation （mNLSE） in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split - step, pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions, and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution. The results indicate that Benjamin - Feir instability （ sideband instability） is an important mechanism for freak wave formation.

An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed

The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the cal- culation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investi- gated.

A CIP-Based Numerical Simulation of Free Surface Flow Related to Freak Waves

An enhanced numerical model for simulating two-dimensional incompressible viscous flow with distorted free surface is reported. The numerical simulation is carried out through the CIP （Constrained Interpolation Profile）-based method, which is described in the paper. A more accurate interface capturing scheme, the VOF/WLIC scheme （VOF：Volume-of-Fluid;WLIC：weighed line interface calculation）, is adopted as the interface capturing method. To assess the developed algorithm and its versatility, a selection of test problems are examined, i.e. the square wave propagation, the Zalesak’s rigid body rotation, dam breaking problem with and without obstacles, wave sloshing in an excited wave tank and interaction between extreme waves and a floating body. Excellent agreements are obtained when numerical results are compared with available analytical, experimental, and other numerical results. These examples demonstrate that the use of the VOF/WLIC scheme in the free surface capturing makes better results and also the proposed CIP-based model is capable of predicting the freak wave-related phenomena.

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schroedinger equation （mNLSE）, and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips paranleter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study, Kriebel＇ s method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory. The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank. The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel＇ s method of the same energy. It can ＇also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel＇ s and can hardly influence the significant wave height.

Dynamic Analysis of Turret-Moored FPSO System in Freak Wave

Freak wave is the common wave which has significant wave height and irregular wave shape, and it is easy to damage offshore structure extremely. The FPSOs（Floating Production Storage and Offloading） suffer from the environment loads, including the freak wave. The freak waves were generated based on the improved phase modulation model, and the coupling model of FPSO-SPM（Single Point Mooring） was established by considering internal-turret FPSO and its mooring system. The dynamic response characteristics of both FPSO and SPM affected by the freak wave were analyzed in the time domain. According to the results, the freak waves generated by original phase modulation model mainly affect the 2nd-order wave loads. However, the freak waves which are generated by random frequencies phase modulation model affect both 1st-order and 2nd-order wave loads on FPSO. What is more, compared with the irregular waves, the dynamic responses of mooring system are larger in the freak waves, but its amplitude lags behind the peak of the freak wave.

Generation and Properties of Freak Waves in A Numerical Wave Tank

Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves.

Effects of Wave Breaking on Freak Wave Generation in Random Wave Train

The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index, AI = Hmas/Hs, being used to characterize the freak waves, and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in bleaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in shallow water.

A Study on Kinematics Characteristics of Freak Wave

Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22-0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration.

Analysis of Energy Characteristics in the Process of Freak Wave Generation

The energy characteristics in the evolution of the wave train are investigated to understand the inherent cause of the freak wave generation. The Morlet wavelet spectrum method is employed to analyze the numerical, laboratory and field evolution data of this generation process. Their energy distributions and variations are discussed with consideration of corresponding surface elevations. Through comparing the energy characteristics of three cases, it is shown that the freak wave generation depends not only on the continuous transfer of wave train energy to a certain region where finally the maximum energy occurs, but also on the distinct shift of the converged energy to high-frequency components in a very short time. And the typical energy characteristics of freak waves are also given.

An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves

Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.

Motion and Dynamic Responses of A Semisubmersible in Freak Waves

The present research aims at clarifying the effects of freak wave on the motion and dynamic responses of a semisubmersible. To reveal the effects of mooring stiffness, two mooring systems were employed in the model tests and time-domain simulations. The 6-DOF motion responses and mooring tensions have been measured and the 3- DOF motions of fairleads were calculated as well. From the time series, trajectories and statistics information, the interactions between the freak wave and the semisubmersible have been demonstrated and the effects of mooring stiffness have been identified. The shortage of numerical simulations based on 3D potential flow theory is presented. Results show that the freak wave is likely to cause large horizontal motions for soft mooring system and to result in extremely large mooring tensions for tight mooring system. Therefore, the freak wave is a real threat for the marine structure, which needs to be carefully considered at design stage.

Observations of Freak Waves in Random Wave Field in 2D Experimental Wave Flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.

Electromagnetic backscattering from freak waves in(1+1)-dimensional deep-water

To study the electromagnetic （EM） backscatter characteristics of freak waves at moderate incidence angles, we establish an EM backscattering model for freak waves in （1＋1）-dimensional deep water. The nonlinear interaction between freak waves and Bragg short waves is considered to be the basic hydrodynamic spectra modulation mechanism in the model. Numerical results suggest that the EM backscattering intensities of freak waves are less than those from the background sea surface at moderate incidence angles. The normalised radar cross sections （NRCSs） from freak waves are highly polarisation dependent, even at low incidence angles, which is different from the situation for normal sea waves; moreover, the NRCS of freak waves is more polarisation dependent than the background sea surface. NRCS discrepancies between freak waves and the background sea surface with using horizontal transmitting horizomtal （HH） polarisation are larger than those using vertical transmitting vertical （VV） polarisation, at moderate incident angles. NRCS discrepancies between freak waves and background sea surface decreases with the increase of incidence angle, in both HH and VV polarisation radars. As an application, in the synthetic-aperture radar （SAR） imaging of freak waves, we suggest that freak waves should have extremely low backscatter NRCSs for the freak wave facet with the strongest slope. Compared with the background sea surface, the freak waves should be darker in HH polarisation echo images than in VV echo images, in SAR images. Freak waves can be more easily detected from the background sea surface in HH polarisation images than in VV polarisation images. The possibility of detection of freak waves at low incidence angles is much higher than at high incidence angles.

Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schrdinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.

3-D simulations of freak waves based on high-order spectral method

Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the enhanced high-order spectral method,which solves the fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a free surface within periodic unbounded 3-D domains. The numerical model is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves. Laboratory-scale freak waves are observed with wave components having equal amplitudes. Investigations of the appearance and propagation of freak-wave events in a 3-D open wavefield defined by a directional wave spectrum are then realized.