FREE LONG WAVES INDUCED BY WEAKLY NONLINEAR STOKES WAVES PROPAGATING OVER STRONG AMBIENT CURRENT AND AN UNEVEN BOTTOM

This paper concerns the generation of forced and free long waves. The free long waves are due to uneven bottoms and ambient currents. The pure wave evolution equation of Liu & Dingemans is extended to include the effects of strong ambient currents, leading to more general third order governing equations for the evolution of the envelope of the short waves and for the generation and scattering of the long waves.

弱非线性斯托克斯波在非平整海底上传播的新型抛物型方程

由于缓坡方程计算量大和其本身的缓坡假定而在实际应用中受到了限制，故对斯托克斯波在非平整海底（适用于缓坡和陡坡地形）上传播的Liu和Dingemans的三阶演化方程进行抛物逼近，得到一个新的非线性抛物型方程，它能够包含同类方程未曾考虑的二阶长波效应．通过数值计算结果与Berkhoff等人的经典实验数据的比较，证明所提出的抛物型模型理论具有较高的精度。

弱非线性水波和海流在非平整海底上相互作用的三阶演化方程的推导

本文考虑强烈的环境流作用 ,对 L iu和 Dingemans纯波演化方程作出重要扩展 ,推导出调制波群和海流在平整海底上相互作用的三阶演化方程。