Different responses of two adjacent artificial beaches to Typhoon Hato in Zhuhai,China

Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.

Fully nonlinear modeling of radiated waves generated by floating flared structures

The nonlinear radiated waves generated by a structure in forced motion, are simulated numerically based on the potential theory. A fully nonlinear numerical model is developed by using a higher-order boundary element method （HOBEM）. In this model, the instantaneous body position and the transient free surface are updated at each time step. A Lagrangian technique is employed as the time marching scheme on the free surface. The mesh regridding and interpolation methods are adopted to deal with the possible numerical instability. Several auxiliary functions are proposed to calculate the wave loads indirectly, instead of directly predicting the temporal derivative of the velocity potential. Numerical experiments are carried out to simulate the heave motions of a submerged sphere in infinite water depth, the heave and pitch motions of a truncated flared cylinder in finite depth. The results are verified against the published numerical results to ensure the effectiveness of the proposed model. Moreover, a series of higher harmonic waves and force components are obtained by the Fourier transformation to investigate the nonlinear effect of oscillation frequency. The difference among fully nonlinear, body-nonlinear and linear results is analyzed. It is found that the nonlinearity due to free surface and body surface has significant influences on the numerical results of the radiated waves and forces.

Fully Nonlinear Simulations of Wave Resonance by An Array of Cylinders in Vertical Motions

The finite element method （FEM） is employed to analyze the resonant oscillations of the liquid confined within multiple or an array of floating bodies with fully nonlinear boundary conditions on the free surface and the body surface in two dimensions. The velocity potentials at each time step are obtained through the FEM with 8-node quadratic shape functions. The finite element linear system is solved by the conjugate gradient （CG） method with a symmetric successive overelaxlation （SSOR） preconditioner. The waves at the open boundary are absorbed by the combination of the damping zone method and the Sommerfeld-Orlanski equation. Numerical examples are given by an array of floating wedge- shaped cylinders and rectangular cylinders. Results are provided for heave motions including wave elevations, profiles and hydrodynamic forces. Comparisons are made in several cases with the results obtained from the second order solution in the time domain. It is found that the wave amplitude in the middle region of the array is larger than those in other places, and the hydrodynamic force on a cylinder increases with the cylinder closing to the middle of the array.

An Improved Nearshore Wave Breaking Model Based on the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equations

This paper aims to propose an improved numerical model for wave breaking in the nearshore region based on the fully nonlinear form of Boussinesq equations. The model uses the κ equation turbulence scheme to determine the eddy viscosity in the Boussinesq equations. To calculate the turbulence production term in the equation, a new formula is derived based on the concept of surface roller. By use of this formula, the turbulence production in the one-equation turbulence scheme is directly related to the difference between the water particle velocity and the wave celerity. The model is verified by Hansen and Svendsen's experimental data (1979) in terms of wave height and setup and setdown. The comparison between the model and experimental results of wave height and setup and setdown shows satisfactory agreement. The modeled turbulence energy decreases as waves attenuate in the surf zone. The modeled production term peaks at the breaking point and decreases as waves propagate shoreward. It is also suggested that both convection and diffusion play their important roles in the transport of turbulence energy immediately after wave breaking. When waves approach to the shoreline, the production and dissipation of turbulence energy are almost balanced. By use of the slot technique for the simulation of the movable shoreline boundary, wave runup in the swash zone is well simulated by the present model.

Fully Nonlinear Simulation for Fluid/Structure Impact：A Review

This paper presents a review of the work on fluid/structure impact based on inviscid and imcompressible liquid and irrotational flow. The focus is on the velocity potential theory together with boundary element method （BEM）. Fully nonlinear boundary conditions are imposed on the unknown free surface and the wetted surface of the moving body. The review includes （1） vertical and oblique water entry of a body at constant or a prescribed varying speed, as well as free fall motion, （2） liquid droplets or column impact as well as wave impact on a body, （3） similarity solution of an expanding body. It covers two dimensional （2D）, axisymmetric and three dimensional （3D） cases. Key techniques used in the numerical simulation are outlined, including mesh generation on the multivalued free surface, the stretched coordinate system for expanding domain, the auxiliary function method for decoupling the mutual dependence of the pressure and the body motion, and treatment for the jet or the thin liquid film developed during impact.

A Fully Nonlinear HOBEM with the Domain Decomposition Method for Simulation of Wave Propagation and Diffraction

A higher-order boundary element method(HOBEM) for simulating the fully nonlinear regular wave propagation and diffraction around a fixed vertical circular cylinder is investigated. The domain decomposition method with continuity conditions enforced on the interfaces between the adjacent sub-domains is implemented for reducing the computational cost. By adjusting the algorithm of iterative procedure on the interfaces, four types of coupling strategies are established, that is, Dirchlet/Dirchlet-Neumman/Neumman(D/D-N/N), Dirchlet-Neumman(D-N),Neumman-Dirchlet(N-D) and Mixed Dirchlet-Neumman/Neumman-Dirchlet(Mixed D-N/N-D). Numerical simulations indicate that the domain decomposition methods can provide accurate results compared with that of the single domain method. According to the comparisons of computational efficiency, the D/D-N/N coupling strategy is recommended for the wave propagation problem. As for the wave-body interaction problem, the Mixed D-N/N-D coupling strategy can obtain the highest computational efficiency.

Numerical Investigations on Transient Behaviours of Two 3-D Freely Floating Structures by Using a Fully Nonlinear Method

Two floating structures in close proximity are very commonly seen in offshore engineering. They are often subjected to steep waves and, therefore, the transient effects on their hydrodynamic features are of great concem. This paper uses the quasi arbitrary Lagrangian Eulerian finite element method （QALE-FEM）, based on the fully nonlinear potential theory （FNPT）, to numerically investigate the interaction between two 3-D floating structures, which undergo motions with 6 degrees of freedom （DOFs）, and are subjected to waves with different incident angles. The transient behaviours of floating structures, the effect of the accompanied structures, and the nonlinearity on the motion of and the wave loads on the structures are the main focuses of the study. The investigation reveals an important transient effects causing considerably larger structure motion than that in steady state. The results also indicate that the accompanied structure in close proximity enhances the interaction between different motion modes and results in stronger nonlinearity causing 2hal-order component to be of similar significance to the fundamental one.

Numerical Comparison for Focused Wave Propagation Between the Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow and the Viscous Fluid Flow Models

Numerical simulations on focused wave propagation are carried out by using three types of numerical models,including the linear potential flow,the nonlinear potential flow and the viscous fluid flow models.The wave-wave interaction of the focused wave group with different frequency bands and input wave amplitudes is examined,by which the influence of free surface nonlinearity and fluid viscosity on the related phenomenon of focused wave is investigated.The significant influence of free surface nonlinearity on the characteristics of focused wave can be observed,including the increased focused wave crest,delayed focused time and downstream shift of focused position with the increase of input amplitude.It can plot the evident difference between the results of the nonlinear potential flow and linear potential flow models.However,only a little discrepancy between the nonlinear potential flow and viscous fluid flow models can be observed,implying the insignificant effect of fluid viscosity on focused wave behavior.Therefore,the nonlinear potential flow model is recommended for simulating the non-breaking focused wave problem in this study.

A STUDY ON GRADIENT BLOW UP FOR VISCOSITY SOLUTIONS OF FULLY NONLINEAR,UNIFORMLY ELLIPTIC EQUATIONS

We investigate sharp conditions for boundary and interior gradient estimates of continuous viscosity solutions to fully nonlinear, uniformly elliptic equations under Dirichlet boundary conditions. When these conditions are violated, there can be blow up of the gradient in the interior or on the boundary of the domain. In particular we de- rive sharp results on local and global Lipschitz continuity of continuous viscosity solutions under more general growth conditions than before. Lipschitz regularity near the boundary allows us to predict when the Dirichlet condition is satisfied in a classical and not just in a viscosity sense, where detachment can occur. Another consequence is this： if interior gra- dient blow up occurs, Perron-type solutions can in general become discontinuous, so that the Dirichlet problem can become unsolvable in the class of continuous viscosity solutions.

DEFORMING METRICS WITH POSITIVE CURVATURE BY A FULLY NONLINEAR FLOW

By studying a fully nonlinear flow deforming conformal metrics on a compact and connected manifold, we prove the long time existence and the exponential convergence of the solutions of the flow for any initial metric g0 with the Schouten tensor Ag0 ∈ Γk.

Fully Nonlinear Shallow Water Waves Simulation Using Green-Naghdi Theory

Green-Naghdi （G-N） theory is a fully nonlinear theory for water waves. Some researchers call it a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Different degrees of complexity of G-N theory are distinguished by ＂levels＂ where the higher the level, the more complicated and presumably more accurate the theory is. In the research presented here a comparison was made between two different levels of G-N theory, specifically level II and level III G-N restricted theories. A linear analytical solution for level III G-N restricted theory was given. Waves on a planar beach and shoaling waves were both simulated with these two G-N theories. It was shown for the first time that level III G-N restricted theory can also be used to predict fluid velocity in shallow water. A level III G-N restricted theory is recommended instead of a level II G-N restricted theory when simulating fullv nonlinear shallow water waves.

Fully Discrete Nonlinear Galerkin Methods for Kuramoto-Sivashinsky Equation and Their Error Estimates

In this paper,the uniform error estimates with respect to t∈[0, ∞ ) of the nonlinear Galerkin method are given for the long time integration of the Kuramoto-Sivashinsky equation. The nonlinear Galerkin method is used to study the asymptotic behaviour of Kuramoto-Sivashinsky equation and to construct the bifurcation diagrams.

POSITIVE RADIAL SOLUTIONS OF FULLY NONLINEAR ELLIPTIC EQUATIONS IN R^n

By the Schauder-Tychonoff fixed-point theorem, we inyestigate the existence and asymptotic behavior of positive radial solutions of fully nonlinear elliptic equations in Re. We give some sufficient conditions to guarantee the existence of bounded and unbounded radial solutions and consider the nonexistence of positive solution in Rn.

全非线性波的高阶谱方法

Efficient generation of an accurate numerical wave is an essential part of the Numerical Wave Basin that simulates the interaction of floating structures with extreme waves.computational fluid dynamics(CFD)is used to model the complex free-surface flow around the floating structure.To minimize CFD domain that requires intensive computing resources,fully developed nonlinear waves are simulated in a large domain that covers far field by more efficient potential flow model and then coupled with the CFD solution nearfield.Several numerical models have been proposed for the potential flow model.the higher-level spectral(HLS)method presented in this paper is the extended version of HLS model for deep water recently been derived by combining efficiency and robustness of the two existing numerical models–Higher-Order Spectral method and Irrotational Green-Naghdi model(Kim et al.2022).The HLS model is extended for the application of finite-depth of water considering interaction with background current.The verification of the HLS model for finite depth is made by checking the qualification criteria of the generated random waves for a wind-farm application in the Dong-Hae Sea of Korea.A selected wave event that represents P90 crest height is coupled to a CFD-based numerical wave tank for the future air-gap analysis of a floating wind turbine.

A numerical study of the generation mechanism of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

The South China Sea （SCS） is a hot spot for oceanic internal solitary waves due to many factors, such as the complexity of the terrain environment. The internal solitary waves in the northern SCS mainly originate in the Luzon Strait. The generation mechanism of the internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait is discussed using a modulation instability. The energy gain of the modulation instability is derived based on the fully nonlinear Schr6dinger equation. The peak value of the gain is calculated under different conditions of stratification, wavelength and the initial amplitude of an internal tidal wave. The characteristics of the modulation instability in the Luzon Strait are investigated. The conditions that make the internal tidal wave evolve into an internal solitary wave in the Luzon strait are also obtained. The results show that the internal tide waves can generate the modulation instability in the Luzon Strait and that the maximum gain occur at the eastern sill of the Luzon Strait, where the internal tide waves start to break up into internal solitary trains. The magnitude and the scope of the peak gain are relevant to the stratification and the initial conditions of the internal tide waves. The numerical simulation results are consistent with the in-situ data.

Wave Slamming on An OWSC Wave Energy Converter in Coupled Wave-Current Conditions with Variable-Depth Seabed

Coastal wave energy resources have enormous exploitation potential due to shorter weather window,closer installation distance and lower maintenance cost.However,impact loads generated by depth variation from offshore to nearshore and wave-current interaction,may lead to a catastrophic damage or complete destruction to wave energy converters(WECs).This objective of this paper is to investigate slamming response of a coastal oscillating wave surge converter(OWSC)entering or leaving water freely.Based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory,a time-domain wave-current-structure interaction model combined with higher-order boundary element method(HOBEM),is developed to analyze the coupled hydrodynamic problem.The variable-depth seabed is considered in the model to illustrate the shallow water effect on impact loads and free surface profiles in coastal zone.A domain decomposition approach is utilized to simulate the overlapping phenomenon generated by a jet falling into water under gravity effect.Through a series of Lagrangian interpolation methods,the meshes on boundaries are rearranged to avoid the mismatch between element size on free surface and body surface.The present model is validated against the existing experimental and numerical results.Simulations are also provided for the effects of wave-current interaction and uneven local seabed on the slamming responses.It is found that the length of the splash jet increases for a following current and decreases for an opposing current,and that the slamming response of the OWSC device is sensitive to the geometric features of the uneven seabed.

Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for interfacial waves in a two-fluid system

Interracial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. A set of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities accounting for stronger nonlinearity are derived. When the small parameter measuring frequency dispersion keeping up to lower-order and full nonlinearity are considered, the equations include the Choi and Camassa＇s results （1999）. The enhanced equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities are obtained by applying the enhancement technique introduced by Madsen et al. （1991） and Schaffer and Madsen （1995a）. It is noted that the equations derived from the present study include, as special cases, those obtained by Madsen and Schaffer （1998）. By comparison with the dispersion relation of the linear Stokes waves, we found that the dispersion relation is more improved than Choi and Camassa＇s （1999） results, and the applicable scope of water depth is deeper.

Nonlinear numerical simulation on extreme-wave kine-matics

A fully nonlinear numerical model based on a time-domain higher-order boundary element method （HOBEM） is founded to simulate the kinematics of extreme waves. In the model, the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied and a semi-mixed Euler-Lagrange method is used to track free surface; a fourth-order Runga-Kutta technique is adopted to refresh the wave elevation and velocity potential on the free surface at each time step; an image Green function is used in the numerical wave tank so that the integrations on the lateral surfaces and bottom are excluded. The extreme waves are generated by the method of wave focusing. The physical experiments are carried out in a wave flume. On the horizontal velocity of the measured point, numerical solutions agree well with experimental results. The characteristics of the nonlinear extreme-wave kinematics and the velocity distribution are studied here.

An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depths

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Enlerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The botmdary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, an artificial damping zone is used to prevent wave reflection back into the computational domain. Using the image Green function in the whole fluid domain, the integrations on the two lateral walls and bottom are excluded. The simulation results on extreme wave elevations in finite and infinite water-depths are compared with experimental results and second-order analytical solutions respectively. The wave kinematics is also discussed in the present study.

ON THE EXISTENCE OF SOLUTIONS TO A BI-PLANAR MONGE-AMPèRE EQUATION

In this article,we consider a fully nonlinear partial differential equation which can be expressed as a sum of two Monge-Ampere operators acting in different two-dimensional coordinate sections.This equation is elliptic,for example,in the class of convex functions.We show that the notion of Monge-Ampere measures and Aleksandrov generalized solutions extends to this equation,subject to a weaker notion of convexity which we call bi-planar convexity.While the equation is also elliptic in the class of bi-planar convex functions,the contrary is not necessarily true.This is a substantial difference compared to the classical Monge-Ampere equation where ellipticity and convexity coincide.We provide explicit counter-examples:classical solutions to the bi-planar equation that satisfy the ellipticity condition but are not generalized solutions in the sense introduced.We conclude that the concept of generalized solutions based on convexity arguments is not a natural setting for the bi-planar equation.