Exact solution and approximate solution of irregular wave radiation stress for non-breaking wave

Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves. Therefore,the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this,the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum,which can save a lot of computing time,and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However,the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location.

Numerical Study of the Impact of Climate Change on Irregular Wave Run-up Over Reef-Fringed Coasts

Wave hydrodynamics over fringing reefs is largely controlled by the reef surface roughness and hydrodynamic forcing.It is believed that climate change will result in a net increase in the water depth over the reef flat,a degrading of the surface roughness of coral reefs and changes in extreme incident wave heights.For an accurate assessment of how climate change affects the safety of reef-fringed coasts,a numerical study of the impact of climate change on irregular wave run-up over reef-fringed coasts was carried out based on a Boussinesq wave model,FUNWAVE-TVD.Validated with experimental data,the present model shows reasonable prediction of irregular wave evolution and run-up height over fringing reefs.Numerical experiments were then implemented based on the anticipated effects of climate change and carried out to investigate the effects of sea level rise,degrading of the reef surface roughness and increase of extreme incident wave height on the irregular wave run-up height over the backreef beach respectively.Variations of run-up components(i.e.,spectral characteristics of run-up and mean water level)were examined specifically and discussed to better understand the influencing mechanism of each climate change-related effect on the run-up.

Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Breakwater and Characteristics of Secondary Wave Generated by Overtopping

This study investigated the interaction between irregular waves and vertical breakwater.The main goal was to determine the wave force on the breakwater for different depths,along with the evolution of the secondary wave generated by overtopping.The open source code DualSPHysics was used in the simulation.Wavelet transform was employed to remove the acoustic components from the weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics pressure solution.The results of the experiments and simulations showed that although the wave height at the low water level(case 2 was smaller than that at the high water level(case 1,the horizontal and uplifting force of case 2 was higher than that of case 1.In case 2,a large impact pressure occurred because of the plunging wave and wave breaking effects.As the water level was close to the breakwater top in case 1,the secondary wave generated by overtopping was studied.Results indicated that wave and breakwater interactions transfer wave energy from the leading wave component to higher harmonics.Two main harmonics were identified in the secondary wave.The first harmonic was the incident peak frequency,which was still the dominant component.During the wave propagation behind the breakwater,the frequencies of harmonics remained unchanged,but the amplitude of the first harmonic showed an obvious change.Under the same wave condition,the first and second harmonics did not change with depth.

Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom

The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula.The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom.Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted.Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography.The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter.With the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors.It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.

Semi-submersible Offshore Coupled Motion in Irregular Waves

In order to predict the hydrodynamic performance of semi-submersible offshore platform accurately,based on CFD theory,continuous equation and N-S equation as the control equation,RNG type k-εmodel as turbulence model,using the finite difference method to discretize the control equation,using the Semi-Implicit Method for Pressure Linked Equation(SIMPLE)algorithm to solve the control equation,using the VOF method to capture the free surface.The numerical wave tank of irregular wave is established,and the wave force and motion response of the semi-submersible platform under irregular wave are studied.Based on the Jonswap spectrum density function,for a certain area of two irregular waves(South China sea,a-ten-year return period,a-hundred-year return period)sea condition,five wave direction Angle(0°,30°,45°,60°,90°),a total of 10 kinds of conditions of the motion response of semi-submersible platform are simulated,through analysis and comparison of simulation results,the influence law of wave angle,wave period and wave height on platform motion is obtained.Compared with the experimental values,the results of heave and pitch are close to the experimental data under the sea condition of 2,0 degree wave angles.The research results in this paper can provide reference for the design and motion response prediction of practical semi-submersible offshore platforms.

An Irregular Wave Generating Approach Based on naoe-FOAM-SJTU Solver

In this paper,a wave generating approach for long-crest irregular waves in a numerical tank by our in-house solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is presented.The naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver is developed using an open source tool kit,Open FOAM.Reynolds-averaged Navier?Stokes(RANS) equations are chosen as governing equations and the volume of fluid(VOF) is employed to capture the two phases interface.Incoming wave group is generated by imposing the boundary conditions of the tank inlet.A spectrum based correction procedure is developed to make the measured spectrum approaching to the target spectrum.This procedure can automatically adjust the wave generation signal based on the measured wave elevation by wave height probe in numerical wave tank.After 3 to 4 iterations,the measured spectrum agrees well with the target one.In order to validate this method,several wave spectra are chosen and validated in the numerical wave tank,with comparison between the final measured and target spectra.In order to investigate a practical situation,a modified Wigley hull is placed in the wave tank with incoming irregular waves.The wave-induced heave and pitch motions are treated by Fourier analysis to obtain motion responses,showing good agreements with the measurements.

Experimental Researches on Reflective and Transmitting Performances of Quarter Circular Breakwater Under Regular and Irregular Waves

A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented.

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.

Numerical Simulation of Irregular Wave Overtopping Against A Smooth Sea Dike

Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model,a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes.Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave's run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules.To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes,several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum.It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas,other numerical results and experimental data.

Experimental Study on Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Irregular Waves

A series of physical model tests are conducted for local scour around a circular cylinder of a relatively large diameter (0 15< D/L <0.5) under the action of irregular waves. The laws of change of the topography around the cylinder are systematically studied. The effects of wave height, wave period, water depth, sediment grain size and cylinder diameter are taken into account. The mechanism of formation of the topography around the cylinder is analyzed. A detailed analysis is given to bed sediment grain size, and it is considered that the depth of scour around the cylinder under wave action is not inversely proportional to the sediment grain diameter. On such a basis, an equation is proposed for calculation of the maximum depth of scour around a cylinder as well as its position under the action of irregular waves.

Experimental Investigation of Irregular Wave Uplift Force on Deck of Exposed High-Pile Jetties

A laboratory setup was developed to investigate irregular wave uplift loads on exposed high-pile jetties.It is shown that the dimensionless uplift load increases to the maximum with an increasing relative clearance and then decreases.The relative clearance corresponding to the peak force is linked to a range from 0.4 to 0.8.When the relative clearance exceeds a certain value,the wave can not reach the underside of the deck and the force becomes zero.Distinct trends of dimensionless force with a relative width of deck show that the force tends to decrease as the relative deck width increases,and then the decrease slows down after the relative deck width increases or decreases to a certain value.The pressure distribution length associated with the maximum uplift force is equivalent to the wave contact width x.When x is larger than the width of deck B,it is taken as B.The statistical distribution of loads obeys the Weibull distribution.The results from the analyses of the real data suggest a new dimensionless prediction model on wave-in-deck uplift loads and the conversion ratio between wave loads at different exceedance probabilities.A comparison is made between the new prediction model and the existing widely used three prediction models.These results are used as useful references for structural design of the jetty.

The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reffection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reffection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reffection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.

An Irregular Wave Maker of Active Absorption with VOF Method

A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid(VOF)method.An active absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume.The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary.The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures.SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen(1995)is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves.The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges.The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time.The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary.The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed.

Parametric Resonance Analyses for Spar Platform in Irregular Waves

The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform will have excessive pitch motion and may capsize. Therefore, avoiding parametric resonance is an important design requirement. The traditional methodology includes only a prediction of the Mathieu stability with harmonic excitation in regular waves. However, real sea conditions are irregular, and it has been observed that parametric resonance also occurs in non-harmonic excitations. Thus, it is imperative to predict the parametric resonance of a spar platform in irregular waves. A Hill equation is derived in this work, which can be used to analyze the parametric resonance under multi-frequency excitations. The derived Hill equation for predicting the instability of a spar can include non-harmonic excitation and random phases. The stability charts for multi-frequency excitation in irregular waves are given and compared with that for single frequency excitation in regular waves. Simulations of the pitch dynamic responses are carried out to check the stability. Three-dimensional stability charts with various damping coefficients for irregular waves are also investigated. The results show that the stability property in irregular waves has notable differences compared with that in case of regular waves. In addition, using the Hill equation to obtain the stability chart is an effective method to predict the parametric instability of spar platforms. Moreover, some suggestions for designing spar platforms to avoid parametric resonance are presented, such as increasing the damping coefficient, using an appropriate RAO and increasing the metacentric height.

Ince-Strutt Stability Charts for Ship Parametric Roll Resonance in Irregular Waves

Ince-Strutt stability chart of ship parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is conducted and utilized for the exploration of the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves. Ship parametric roll resonance will lead to large amplitude roll motion and even wreck. Firstly, the equation describing the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is derived according to Grim's effective theory and the corresponding Ince-Strutt stability charts are obtained.Secondly, the differences of stability charts for the parametric roll resonance in irregular and regular waves are compared. Thirdly, wave phases and peak periods are taken into consideration to obtain a more realistic sea condition. The influence of random wave phases should be taken into consideration when the analyzed points are located near the instability boundary. Stability charts for different wave peak periods are various. Stability charts are helpful for the parameter determination in design stage to better adapt to sailing condition. Last, ship variables are analyzed according to stability charts by a statistical approach. The increase of the metacentric height will help improve ship stability.

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Double Jetty

The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular waves with a unidirectional frequency spectrum have confirmed good agreement between the data measured in experiments and the results computed by the singularity distribution method plus the linear superposition method for the energy of component waves in the directional frequency spectra. Therefore, this technique for component waves in the directional spectra has been further used to compute diffraction of irregular waves of multidirection, including the employment of a directional distribution function of the cos2 type, as well as the Bretschneider-Misuyann frequency spectrum.

Hydrodynamic Coefficients for Grouping Piles Under the Action of Irregular Waves

-The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary with the KC number, the relative pile spacing, the number of piles and the pile location, and their relationships are presented in this paper. They can be used in Morison Equation and other equations to calculate directly the in-line wave forces and the transverse forces on each pile in array.

Experimental study on bed-load sediment transport under irregular wave and current combined flow

Using an irregularly oscillating tray and flume, a series of experiments are completed to evaluate bed-load sediment transport rate under irregular wave -current coexistent field. Testing conditions include three interaction angles 0’, 45’, 90’ and two kinds of median sizes (0.38 and 1.10 mm). The results of transport rate show that the net sediment transport rate can be expressed approximately as the function of the maximum bottom shear stress of waves, mean shear stress of current and the grain size.

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope(1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.

An Experimental Study of Irregular Wave Forces on Multiple Quasi-ellipse Caissons

伪椭圆沉箱结构上的不规则的波浪力量的试验性的调查被介绍。不规则的波浪从 1.19 s 与二重要波浪高度，和光谱高峰时期范围基于 Jonswap 光谱被产生到 1.81 s。相对多重沉箱的中心线的事件波浪方向从 0 敢琠敨搠獥慰物漠吗？