Two(3+1)-dimensional shallow water wave equations are studied by using residual symmetry and the consistent Riccati expansion(CRE) method. Through localization of residual symmetries, symmetry reduction solutions of t...Two(3+1)-dimensional shallow water wave equations are studied by using residual symmetry and the consistent Riccati expansion(CRE) method. Through localization of residual symmetries, symmetry reduction solutions of the two equations are obtained. The CRE method is applied to the two equations to obtain new B?cklund transformations from which a type of interesting interaction solution between solitons and periodic waves is generated.展开更多
In this paper,we investigate a(3+1)-dimensional generalized variable-coefficient shallow water wave equation,which can be used to describe the flow below a pressure surface in oceanography and atmospheric science.Empl...In this paper,we investigate a(3+1)-dimensional generalized variable-coefficient shallow water wave equation,which can be used to describe the flow below a pressure surface in oceanography and atmospheric science.Employing the Kadomtsev−Petviashvili hierarchy reduction,we obtain the semi-rational solutions which describe the lumps and rogue waves interacting with the kink solitons.We find that the lump appears from one kink soliton and fuses into the other on the x−y and x−t planes.However,on the x−z plane,the localized waves in the middle of the parallel kink solitons are in two forms:lumps and line rogue waves.The effects of the variable coefficients on the two forms are discussed.The dispersion coefficient influences the speed of solitons,while the background coefficient influences the background’s height.展开更多
In this work, an extended Jacobian elliptic function expansion method is proposed for constructing the exact solutions of nonlinear evolution equations. The validity and reliability of the method are tested by its app...In this work, an extended Jacobian elliptic function expansion method is proposed for constructing the exact solutions of nonlinear evolution equations. The validity and reliability of the method are tested by its applications to the system of shallow water wave equations and modified Liouville equation which play an important role in mathematical physics.展开更多
We give the bilinear form and n-soliton solutions of a(2+1)-dimensional [(2+1)-D] extended shallow water wave(eSWW) equation associated with two functions v and r by using Hirota bilinear method. We provide soli...We give the bilinear form and n-soliton solutions of a(2+1)-dimensional [(2+1)-D] extended shallow water wave(eSWW) equation associated with two functions v and r by using Hirota bilinear method. We provide solitons, breathers,and hybrid solutions of them. Four cases of a crucial φ(y), which is an arbitrary real continuous function appeared in f of bilinear form, are selected by using Jacobi elliptic functions, which yield a periodic solution and three kinds of doubly localized dormion-type solution. The first order Jacobi-type solution travels parallelly along the x axis with the velocity(3k12+ α, 0) on(x, y)-plane. If φ(y) = sn(y, 3/10), it is a periodic solution. If φ(y) = cn(y, 1), it is a dormion-type-Ⅰ solutions which has a maximum(3/4)k1p1 and a minimum-(3/4)k1p1. The width of the contour line is ln■. If φ(y) = sn(y, 1), we get a dormion-type-Ⅱ solution(26) which has only one extreme value-(3/2)k1p1. The width of the contour line is ln■. If φ(y) = sn(y, 1/2)/(1 + y2), we get a dormion-type-Ⅲ solution(21) which shows very strong doubly localized feature on(x, y) plane. Moreover, several interesting patterns of the mixture of periodic and localized solutions are also given in graphic way.展开更多
A Shallow Water Wave-like nonlinear differential equation is considered by using the generalized bilinear equation with the generalized bilinear derivatives D3,x and D3,t, which possesses the same bilinear form as the...A Shallow Water Wave-like nonlinear differential equation is considered by using the generalized bilinear equation with the generalized bilinear derivatives D3,x and D3,t, which possesses the same bilinear form as the standard shallow water wave bilinear equation. By symbolic computation, four presented classes of rational solutions contain all rational solutions to the resulting Shallow Water Wave-like equation, which generated from a search for polynomial solutions to the corresponding generalized bilinear equation.展开更多
In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use Adomian’s decomposition method (ADM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave equ...In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use Adomian’s decomposition method (ADM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave equations and the obtained solutions are shown graphically.展开更多
In this manuscript, we first perform a complete Lie symmetry classification for a higher-dimensional shallow water wave equation and then construct the corresponding reduced equations with the obtained Lie symmetries....In this manuscript, we first perform a complete Lie symmetry classification for a higher-dimensional shallow water wave equation and then construct the corresponding reduced equations with the obtained Lie symmetries. Moreover, with the extended <em>F</em>-expansion method, we obtain several new nonlinear wave solutions involving differentiable arbitrary functions, expressed by Jacobi elliptic function, Weierstrass elliptic function, hyperbolic function and trigonometric function.展开更多
Originally, the kinetic flux vector splitting (KFVS) scheme was developed as a numerical method to solve gas dynamic problems. The main idea in the approach is to construct the flux based on the microscopical descript...Originally, the kinetic flux vector splitting (KFVS) scheme was developed as a numerical method to solve gas dynamic problems. The main idea in the approach is to construct the flux based on the microscopical description of the gas. In this paper, based on the analogy between the shallow water wave equations and the gas dynamic equations, we develop an explicit KFVS method for simulating the shallow water wave equations. A 1D steady flow and a 2D unsteady flow are presented to show the robust and accuracy of the KFVS scheme.展开更多
In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use He’s variational iteration method (VIM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave ...In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use He’s variational iteration method (VIM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave equations and the obtained solutions are shown graphically.展开更多
Recently, a new (2+1)-dimensional shallow water wave system, the (2+1)-dlmenslonal displacement shallow water wave system (2DDSWWS), was constructed by applying the variational principle of the analytic mechan...Recently, a new (2+1)-dimensional shallow water wave system, the (2+1)-dlmenslonal displacement shallow water wave system (2DDSWWS), was constructed by applying the variational principle of the analytic mechanics in the Lagrange coordinates. The disadvantage is that fluid viscidity is not considered in the 2DDSWWS, which is the same as the famous Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and Korteweg-de Vries equation. Applying dimensional analysis, we modify the 2DDSWWS and add the term related to the fluid viscidity to the 2DDSWWS. The approximate similarity solutions of the modified 2DDSWWS (M2DDSWWS) is studied and four similarity solutions are obtained. For the perfect fluids, the coefficient of kinematic viscosity is zero, then the M2DDSWWS will degenerate to the 2DDSWWS.展开更多
The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been...The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.展开更多
Boussinesq’s theory are used in this study on watr waves entering shallow water showing that the spacial variation of the wave amplitude is nonlinear, and is governed by the Duffing equation usually applied to descri...Boussinesq’s theory are used in this study on watr waves entering shallow water showing that the spacial variation of the wave amplitude is nonlinear, and is governed by the Duffing equation usually applied to describs nonlinear oscillation in nature.展开更多
We have utilized three novel methods,called generalized direct algebraic,modified F-expansion and improved simple equation methods to construct traveling wave solutions of the system of shallow water wave equations an...We have utilized three novel methods,called generalized direct algebraic,modified F-expansion and improved simple equation methods to construct traveling wave solutions of the system of shallow water wave equations and modified Benjamin-Bona-Mahony equation.After substituting particular values of the parameters,different solitary wave solutions are derived from the exact traveling wave solutions.It is shown that these employed methods are more powerful tools for nonlinear wave equations.展开更多
In this paper, the (2+l)-dimensional generalization of shallow water wave equation, which may be used to describe the propagation of ocean waves, is analytically investigated. With the aid of symbolic computation, ...In this paper, the (2+l)-dimensional generalization of shallow water wave equation, which may be used to describe the propagation of ocean waves, is analytically investigated. With the aid of symbolic computation, we prove that the (2+ l)-dimensional generalization of shallow water wave equation possesses the Palnlev6 property under a certain condition, and its Lax pair is constructed by applying the singular manifold method. Based on the obtained Lax representation, the Darboux transformation (DT) is constructed. The first iterated solution, second iterated solution and a special N-soliton solution with an arbitrary function are derived with the resulting DT. Relevant properties are graphically illustrated, which might be helpful to understanding the propagation processes for ocean waves in shallow water.展开更多
With the aid of binary Bell polynomial and a general Riemann theta function, we introduce how to obtain the exact periodic wave solutions by applying the generalized Dpˉ-operators in term of the Hirota direct method ...With the aid of binary Bell polynomial and a general Riemann theta function, we introduce how to obtain the exact periodic wave solutions by applying the generalized Dpˉ-operators in term of the Hirota direct method when the appropriate value of pˉ is determined. Furthermore, the resulting approach is applied to solve the extended(2+1)-dimensional Shallow Water Wave equation, and the periodic wave solution is obtained and reduced to soliton solution via asymptotic analysis.展开更多
A lattice Boltzmann (LB) model with overall second-order accuracy is applied to the 1.5-layer shallow water equation for a wind-driven double-gyre ocean circulation. By introducing the second-order integral approximat...A lattice Boltzmann (LB) model with overall second-order accuracy is applied to the 1.5-layer shallow water equation for a wind-driven double-gyre ocean circulation. By introducing the second-order integral approximation for the collision operator, the model becomes fully explicit. In this case, any iterative technique is not needed. The Coriolis force and other external forces are included in the model with second-order accuracy, which is consistent with the discretized accuracy of the LB equation. The numerical results show correct physics of the ocean circulation driven by the double-gyre wind stress with different Reynolds numbers and different spatial resolutions. An intrinsic low-frequency variability of the shallow water model is also found. The wind-driven ocean circulation exhibits subannual and interannual oscillations, which are comparable to those of models in which the conventional numerical methods are used.展开更多
In this study,the potential Kadomtsev-Petviashvili(pKP)equation,which describes the oblique interaction of surface waves in shallow waters,is solved by the new extended direct algebraic method.The results of the study...In this study,the potential Kadomtsev-Petviashvili(pKP)equation,which describes the oblique interaction of surface waves in shallow waters,is solved by the new extended direct algebraic method.The results of the study show that by applying the new direct algebraic method to the pKP equation,the behavior of the obliquely interacting surface waves in two dimensions can be analyzed.This article fairly clarifies the behaviors of surface waves in shallow waters.In the literature,several mathematical models have been developed in attempt to study these behaviors,with nonlinear mathematics being one of the most important steps;however,the investigations are still at a level that can be called‘baby steps’.Therefore,every study to be carried out in this context is of great importance.Thus,this study will serve as a reference to guide scientists working in this field.展开更多
In this article,the two variable(G'G,1/G)-expansion method is suggested to investigate new and further general multiple exact wave solutions to the Drinfeld-Sokolov-Satsuma-Hirota(DSSH)equation and the shallow wat...In this article,the two variable(G'G,1/G)-expansion method is suggested to investigate new and further general multiple exact wave solutions to the Drinfeld-Sokolov-Satsuma-Hirota(DSSH)equation and the shallow water wave equation which arise in mathematical physics with the aid of computer algebra software,like Mathematica.Three functions and the rational functions solution are found.The method demonstrates power,reliability and efficiency.Indeed,the method is the generalization of the well-known(G/G)-expansion method established by Wang et al.and the method also presents a wider applicability for conducting nonlinear wave equations.展开更多
The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation Is briefly described. Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theories are discussed. Wave ener...The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation Is briefly described. Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theories are discussed. Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced, with emphasis placed on the SWAN model, which takes use of the most advanced wave research achievements and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions. The characteristics and applicability of the model, the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source terms computing methods are described in detail. The model has been verified with the propagation refraction numerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents; finally, the model is applied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there, and the results are compared with observed data.展开更多
In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some ...In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and improved BOUSSINESQ-type and SERRE-GREEN-NAGHDI equations.Finally,we propose also a unified modelling framework which incorporates several well-known and some less known dispersive wave models.The present manuscript is the first part of a series of two papers.The second part will be devoted to the numerical discretization of a practically important model on moving adaptive grids.展开更多
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 11975156 and 12175148)。
文摘Two(3+1)-dimensional shallow water wave equations are studied by using residual symmetry and the consistent Riccati expansion(CRE) method. Through localization of residual symmetries, symmetry reduction solutions of the two equations are obtained. The CRE method is applied to the two equations to obtain new B?cklund transformations from which a type of interesting interaction solution between solitons and periodic waves is generated.
基金financially supported by the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.BLX201927)China Postdoctoral Science Foundation(Grant No.2019M660491)the Natural Science Foundation of Hebei Province(Grant No.A2021502003).
文摘In this paper,we investigate a(3+1)-dimensional generalized variable-coefficient shallow water wave equation,which can be used to describe the flow below a pressure surface in oceanography and atmospheric science.Employing the Kadomtsev−Petviashvili hierarchy reduction,we obtain the semi-rational solutions which describe the lumps and rogue waves interacting with the kink solitons.We find that the lump appears from one kink soliton and fuses into the other on the x−y and x−t planes.However,on the x−z plane,the localized waves in the middle of the parallel kink solitons are in two forms:lumps and line rogue waves.The effects of the variable coefficients on the two forms are discussed.The dispersion coefficient influences the speed of solitons,while the background coefficient influences the background’s height.
文摘In this work, an extended Jacobian elliptic function expansion method is proposed for constructing the exact solutions of nonlinear evolution equations. The validity and reliability of the method are tested by its applications to the system of shallow water wave equations and modified Liouville equation which play an important role in mathematical physics.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11671219 and 11871446)
文摘We give the bilinear form and n-soliton solutions of a(2+1)-dimensional [(2+1)-D] extended shallow water wave(eSWW) equation associated with two functions v and r by using Hirota bilinear method. We provide solitons, breathers,and hybrid solutions of them. Four cases of a crucial φ(y), which is an arbitrary real continuous function appeared in f of bilinear form, are selected by using Jacobi elliptic functions, which yield a periodic solution and three kinds of doubly localized dormion-type solution. The first order Jacobi-type solution travels parallelly along the x axis with the velocity(3k12+ α, 0) on(x, y)-plane. If φ(y) = sn(y, 3/10), it is a periodic solution. If φ(y) = cn(y, 1), it is a dormion-type-Ⅰ solutions which has a maximum(3/4)k1p1 and a minimum-(3/4)k1p1. The width of the contour line is ln■. If φ(y) = sn(y, 1), we get a dormion-type-Ⅱ solution(26) which has only one extreme value-(3/2)k1p1. The width of the contour line is ln■. If φ(y) = sn(y, 1/2)/(1 + y2), we get a dormion-type-Ⅲ solution(21) which shows very strong doubly localized feature on(x, y) plane. Moreover, several interesting patterns of the mixture of periodic and localized solutions are also given in graphic way.
文摘A Shallow Water Wave-like nonlinear differential equation is considered by using the generalized bilinear equation with the generalized bilinear derivatives D3,x and D3,t, which possesses the same bilinear form as the standard shallow water wave bilinear equation. By symbolic computation, four presented classes of rational solutions contain all rational solutions to the resulting Shallow Water Wave-like equation, which generated from a search for polynomial solutions to the corresponding generalized bilinear equation.
文摘In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use Adomian’s decomposition method (ADM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave equations and the obtained solutions are shown graphically.
文摘In this manuscript, we first perform a complete Lie symmetry classification for a higher-dimensional shallow water wave equation and then construct the corresponding reduced equations with the obtained Lie symmetries. Moreover, with the extended <em>F</em>-expansion method, we obtain several new nonlinear wave solutions involving differentiable arbitrary functions, expressed by Jacobi elliptic function, Weierstrass elliptic function, hyperbolic function and trigonometric function.
基金Foundation item:Supported by the National Key Grant Program of Basic(2002CCA01200)original funding of Jilin Universitythe Project-sponsord by SRF for ROCS,SME
文摘Originally, the kinetic flux vector splitting (KFVS) scheme was developed as a numerical method to solve gas dynamic problems. The main idea in the approach is to construct the flux based on the microscopical description of the gas. In this paper, based on the analogy between the shallow water wave equations and the gas dynamic equations, we develop an explicit KFVS method for simulating the shallow water wave equations. A 1D steady flow and a 2D unsteady flow are presented to show the robust and accuracy of the KFVS scheme.
文摘In this paper, we consider two extended model equations for shallow water waves. We use He’s variational iteration method (VIM) to solve them. It is proved that this method is a very good tool for shallow water wave equations and the obtained solutions are shown graphically.
基金Project supported by the Natural Science Foundation of Guangdong Province of China (Grant No.10452840301004616)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.61001018)the Scientific Research Foundation for the Doctors of University of Electronic Science and Technology of China Zhongshan Institute (Grant No.408YKQ09)
文摘Recently, a new (2+1)-dimensional shallow water wave system, the (2+1)-dlmenslonal displacement shallow water wave system (2DDSWWS), was constructed by applying the variational principle of the analytic mechanics in the Lagrange coordinates. The disadvantage is that fluid viscidity is not considered in the 2DDSWWS, which is the same as the famous Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and Korteweg-de Vries equation. Applying dimensional analysis, we modify the 2DDSWWS and add the term related to the fluid viscidity to the 2DDSWWS. The approximate similarity solutions of the modified 2DDSWWS (M2DDSWWS) is studied and four similarity solutions are obtained. For the perfect fluids, the coefficient of kinematic viscosity is zero, then the M2DDSWWS will degenerate to the 2DDSWWS.
文摘The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.
文摘Boussinesq’s theory are used in this study on watr waves entering shallow water showing that the spacial variation of the wave amplitude is nonlinear, and is governed by the Duffing equation usually applied to describs nonlinear oscillation in nature.
文摘We have utilized three novel methods,called generalized direct algebraic,modified F-expansion and improved simple equation methods to construct traveling wave solutions of the system of shallow water wave equations and modified Benjamin-Bona-Mahony equation.After substituting particular values of the parameters,different solitary wave solutions are derived from the exact traveling wave solutions.It is shown that these employed methods are more powerful tools for nonlinear wave equations.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.61072145the Scientific Research Common Program of Beijing Municipal Commission of Education under Grant No.SQKM201211232016
文摘In this paper, the (2+l)-dimensional generalization of shallow water wave equation, which may be used to describe the propagation of ocean waves, is analytically investigated. With the aid of symbolic computation, we prove that the (2+ l)-dimensional generalization of shallow water wave equation possesses the Palnlev6 property under a certain condition, and its Lax pair is constructed by applying the singular manifold method. Based on the obtained Lax representation, the Darboux transformation (DT) is constructed. The first iterated solution, second iterated solution and a special N-soliton solution with an arbitrary function are derived with the resulting DT. Relevant properties are graphically illustrated, which might be helpful to understanding the propagation processes for ocean waves in shallow water.
基金Supported by Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Ecology and Environment&Disaster Prevention and Mitigation project under Grant No.2012010National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.11271007+1 种基金Special Funds for Theoretical Physics of the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.11447205Shandong University of Science and Technology Research Fund under Grant No.2012KYTD105
文摘With the aid of binary Bell polynomial and a general Riemann theta function, we introduce how to obtain the exact periodic wave solutions by applying the generalized Dpˉ-operators in term of the Hirota direct method when the appropriate value of pˉ is determined. Furthermore, the resulting approach is applied to solve the extended(2+1)-dimensional Shallow Water Wave equation, and the periodic wave solution is obtained and reduced to soliton solution via asymptotic analysis.
基金The work was supported by the One Hundred Talents Project of the Chinese Academy of Sciences(Grant No.KCL14014)the Impacts of Ocean-Land-Atmosphere Interactions over the East Asian Mon soon Region on the Climate in China(EAMOLA)(Grant No:ZKCX2-SW-210)the National Outstanding Youth Science Foundation of China(Grant No.40325016).
文摘A lattice Boltzmann (LB) model with overall second-order accuracy is applied to the 1.5-layer shallow water equation for a wind-driven double-gyre ocean circulation. By introducing the second-order integral approximation for the collision operator, the model becomes fully explicit. In this case, any iterative technique is not needed. The Coriolis force and other external forces are included in the model with second-order accuracy, which is consistent with the discretized accuracy of the LB equation. The numerical results show correct physics of the ocean circulation driven by the double-gyre wind stress with different Reynolds numbers and different spatial resolutions. An intrinsic low-frequency variability of the shallow water model is also found. The wind-driven ocean circulation exhibits subannual and interannual oscillations, which are comparable to those of models in which the conventional numerical methods are used.
文摘In this study,the potential Kadomtsev-Petviashvili(pKP)equation,which describes the oblique interaction of surface waves in shallow waters,is solved by the new extended direct algebraic method.The results of the study show that by applying the new direct algebraic method to the pKP equation,the behavior of the obliquely interacting surface waves in two dimensions can be analyzed.This article fairly clarifies the behaviors of surface waves in shallow waters.In the literature,several mathematical models have been developed in attempt to study these behaviors,with nonlinear mathematics being one of the most important steps;however,the investigations are still at a level that can be called‘baby steps’.Therefore,every study to be carried out in this context is of great importance.Thus,this study will serve as a reference to guide scientists working in this field.
文摘In this article,the two variable(G'G,1/G)-expansion method is suggested to investigate new and further general multiple exact wave solutions to the Drinfeld-Sokolov-Satsuma-Hirota(DSSH)equation and the shallow water wave equation which arise in mathematical physics with the aid of computer algebra software,like Mathematica.Three functions and the rational functions solution are found.The method demonstrates power,reliability and efficiency.Indeed,the method is the generalization of the well-known(G/G)-expansion method established by Wang et al.and the method also presents a wider applicability for conducting nonlinear wave equations.
基金"333"Project Scientific Research Foundation of Jiangsu ProvinceScience Fundation of Hohai University(3853)
文摘The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation Is briefly described. Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theories are discussed. Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced, with emphasis placed on the SWAN model, which takes use of the most advanced wave research achievements and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions. The characteristics and applicability of the model, the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source terms computing methods are described in detail. The model has been verified with the propagation refraction numerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents; finally, the model is applied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there, and the results are compared with observed data.
基金This research was supported by RSCF project No 14-17-00219.D.Mitsotakis was supported by the Marsden Fund administered by the Royal Society of New Zealand.
文摘In this paperwe reviewthe history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves.For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and improved BOUSSINESQ-type and SERRE-GREEN-NAGHDI equations.Finally,we propose also a unified modelling framework which incorporates several well-known and some less known dispersive wave models.The present manuscript is the first part of a series of two papers.The second part will be devoted to the numerical discretization of a practically important model on moving adaptive grids.