Principles and Chief Technologies in Developing Light-weighted Worsted Fabrics

More and more light-weighted fabrics are being required by the market, especially for the worsted manufacture.In the past, such fabrics are produced mainly through changing the structure of woven goods or by using finer yarns. But these possibilities are very limited. In this paper, new devices are discussed: (1) on the yarn level- to use single yarns instead of conventional doubled ones, to decrease number of fibers in yarn cross sections beth during spinning and after finishing; (2) on the fiber level - to use finer fibers in blends with wool and modification of the wool fibers; (3) on the macromolecule level - to stretch the macromolecules in alpha keratin, to get super fine wool fibers.

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Using the forearm test, the prickle of 26 commercially available light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics and 7 other fiber fabrics were studied under (24±1)℃ temperature and (65±5)% RH conditions. The surface fiber diameter of part of the wool fabrics was measured using a microscope. It was found that most of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics gave a prickle sensation under the above conditions. The prickle sensation was significantly correlated with the mean fiber diameter of the surface hairiness. It was also found that the prickle of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics was significantly correlated with the number of surface fibers which were coarser than 26 μm diameter.

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.

Prediction of the Shearing Property of Worsted Fabrics Using BP Neural Network

In this paper, three layers of BP neural network were used to model the shearing properties of worsted fabrics. We train the neural network models with 27 kinds of fabrics, and then use 6 kinds of fabrics to validate the accuracy of the model. The result shows that the predicted accuracy of the models is about 85%.

Analysis of the Appearance Diameter of Yarns in Worsted Fabrics

Three-dimensional Rotational Microscopy was used to take the photos of the fabrics. Three categories of yarn appearance diameters in the worsted fabrics were discussed. The fabrics were grouped into two to explore the relationships between yam appearance diameters at the interlacing points, opening points, and the calculated yam diameters. The correlations between the appearance diameters and fabric parameters were given, and the results showed that the calculated yam diameter and warp cover factor had a very big influence on yam appearance diameter. The equations expressing the relationship between yam appearance diameters and fabric parameters are established using step-regression method. The validation of the equations for one type of fabrics shows a good accuracy with the average error below 9% except the weft fdaments exceeding 22%.

Study on Performance and Processability of Sirofil Lightweight Worsted Fabric

The lightweight worsted fabric made of Sirofil yarn was developed and its textile performance was studied. By means of conventional testing, KES and FAST, it is concluded that with the coordination of proper fabric design and processing technique, the performance of this innovative fabric is superior to that of the conventional lightweight fabric Furthermore, it is predicted from the relevant parameters that its processability in the following suit manufacture is very desirable.

An Apparatus for Assessing Lustre of Fabrics

Luster is one of the main factors in assessing fabric appearance. There are many different ways to definite and describe the luster, which result in disorder and discommodious in evaluation. Based on previous work, an apparatus suited for the measure of lustre is developed. Which performed measure the reflection distribution of fabrics automatically. Then the objective judgment can be given by the geniophotometric curve. Finally taking several kind of specimens for example give the results to prove the effectiveness of the device.

轻薄型精纺纯毛可机洗毛织物的开发

为实现毛织物可机洗、提升其服用性能和尺寸稳定性,解决毛织物不易护理的问题,通过分析对比丝光羊毛与普通羊毛纤维的表面形貌和染色性能的差异,针对性地设计纺纱、织造和整理各道工艺参数,纺制出轻薄型普通羊毛和丝光羊毛织物,并对2种织物的主要物理指标和水洗尺寸变化率进行测试与分析。结果表明:与普通羊毛相比,丝光羊毛纤维的鳞片层基本被剥除,纤维整体呈现均匀、光滑的外观,染料上染百分率高,颜色更浓深;纺制出的轻薄型丝光羊毛织物水洗尺寸变化率满足GB/T 26382—2011《精梳毛织品》中可机洗类产品水洗尺寸变化率考核指标要求,属于可机洗类产品,实现了产品开发预期目标。

不同聚酯纤维对精纺毛织物强力的影响

为了分析不同聚酯纤维混纺后对精纺毛织物强力的影响,选取PET/羊毛织物、PBT/羊毛织物、PTT/羊毛织物和PBST/羊毛织物4种精纺毛织物,研究其拉伸性能、压缩性能、弯曲性能、抗皱性能、悬垂性能、透气性能和起毛起球性能等强力指标。采用高速延时摄像机研究4种织物的经纬纱直径随受力时间的变化。结果表明:精纺毛织物的经纬纱直径随受力时间的延长呈负相关趋势。与其他3种织物相比,PTT/羊毛织物具有良好的抗皱性能、压缩性能、弯曲性能、悬垂性能、透气性能和起毛起球性能。

吸湿凉爽羊毛混纺面料的开发

为了改善羊毛精纺面料在夏季使用时的凉爽感,拓宽其在短袖衬衫、夏季单裤以及执勤服等领域的应用,通过筛选具有红外反射能力的染料,并结合接触凉感纤维以及吸湿排汗整理等方式,设计开发了具有良好的户外降温效果和优异穿着舒适性的羊毛精纺面料。相比于常规的同品质面料,该面料在模拟太阳光照射条件下,可以降温2~4℃,并具有优异的接触凉感(Q-max值达到0.28 J/(cm^(2)·s))和吸湿排汗效果(芯吸高度达到12.5 cm以上)。

基于灯芯绒组织的精纺丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料开发

为适应当前绿色生态环保的消费理念,满足消费者对面料的舒适性、功能性、时尚性的新要求,基于灯芯绒组织开发丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料,结合棉纺色织灯芯绒的产品特点,利用精纺环锭纺纱线与桑蚕丝交织,通过精纺、粗纺后整理设备的优势互补,开发全新风格的面料;介绍精纺丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料设计思路以及灯芯绒组织、排列、原料的选择对产品风格的影响;根据对面料外观和手感要求的特殊性,从纺纱、织造和后整理工序进行多次工艺试验和质量攻关,最终面料的纱线质量得到提高,同时解决了由于纬密大织造易断经、纬向弹力纱易卷边、高比例桑蚕丝在后整理过程中易造成磨伤、斑疵等关键问题,拓展了精纺羊毛织物产品的开发思路。

超声波处理对羊毛纤维润湿性的影响

为改善羊毛纤维的润湿性能,实现羊毛纤维功能化的需要,讨论水浴超声波、超声波与渗透剂共浴、渗透剂浸渍3种预处理对羊毛纤维润湿性的影响。运用单纤维动态接触角张力仪和扫描电子显微镜对处理前后羊毛纤维的润湿性和表面形态进行表征。实验结果表明:经过3种方式预处理后精纺呢绒的润湿性都有不同程度地改善,其中采用超声波与渗透剂共浴处理的精纺呢绒,润湿性改善最为明显;经过超声波处理的羊毛纤维,在其鳞片层表面产生了刻蚀效果或鳞片层局部出现了剥离。

竹炭改性涤纶纤维在开发功能型毛精纺面料中的应用

研究了竹炭改性涤纶纤维的结构、性能特点，采用该纤维开发功能型毛精纺面料的关键技术难点，与羊毛混纺精纺面料的吸水速干性、除异味性能以及发射负离子等功能。所开发的30％竹炭涤纶／70％羊毛、50％竹炭涤纶／50％羊毛混纺精纺面料产品内在质量达到FZ／T24008—1998《精梳高支轻薄型毛织品》一等品标准，抗起球性能好，达到4～5级。30％竹炭涤纶／70％羊毛精纺毛织物具有吸水快干、发射负离子的功能；50％竹炭涤纶／50％羊毛精纺织物还具有除异戊酸异味的功能。

壳聚糖及其衍生物整理精纺呢绒的抗菌性

讨论了柠檬酸和壳聚糖及其衍生物对精纺呢绒整理的抗菌效果,运用扫描电镜照片和傅里叶变换红外光谱图对壳聚糖及其衍生物与羊毛的交联机理和抗菌机理进行了探讨。结果表明,经整理的精纺呢绒洗涤20次后,对金黄色葡萄球菌和大肠杆菌仍保持较高的抗菌性。

织物组织结构对其起毛起球性能的影响

织物起毛起球影响织物的外观、手感等服用性能。文中通过对 8种精纺毛涤织物进行起毛起球测试 ,并利用扫描电镜对起球过程进行了观察 。

精纺呢绒的壳聚糖抗菌整理

壳聚糖具有良好的广谱抗菌性,已被应用到织物的抗菌整理中。文章采用环保型化学物质———壳聚糖和柠檬酸,按轧—烘—焙工艺整理精纺呢绒,使其获得良好的抗菌性能。分析了柠檬酸、壳聚糖、焙烘温度和焙烘时间等因素对整理效果的影响,确定了抗菌整理的最佳工艺。整理后的精纺呢绒对金黄色葡萄球菌和大肠杆菌有良好的抑菌性和耐洗涤性能。

精纺毛织物的防毡缩和形态记忆整理

采用等离子体预处理后再施加高聚物和单独采用高聚物对精纺毛织物进行防毡缩整理 ,并采用褶裥处浸轧还原剂的方法提高毛织物的形态记忆性能 ,取得了较为明显的效果。

冷感深色精毛纺面料的开发与生产

科莱恩公司的Coldblack是一种新型纺织品整理技术。文章介绍了利用Coldblack技术生产精毛纺面料的染色工艺,生产过程中的难点及解决办法,并且分析了织物结构对冷感性能的影响。测试结果表明:采用Coldblack技术整理的冷感深色精纺面料可保证不低于UPF30+的防护性,同时,该面料对长波段的红外线具有较高的反射率,黑色织物可达70%,灰色织物可达80%。

低支松结构精纺毛织物风格的客观评价与比较

选取纱支、组织、面密度、紧度、纬经比相同,成分不同的3种低支松结构精纺毛织物作为研究对象,利用KES-FB-AUTO-A风格仪、YG811型织物悬垂性测试仪对其在低应力下的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面性能和静态悬垂性进行测试。通过对测试结果进行分析对比,从而对3种织物的风格进行客观评价。结果表明:全毛纯纺织物的风格最优;毛涤混纺织物最有身骨,且在蓬松度、静态悬垂性方面与全毛织物较为接近;毛涤粘混纺织物静态悬垂性最好,纬向弹性和织物丰满度表现也较好,与全毛织物较为接近。

毛织物视觉风格研究

对26块精纺毛织物的视觉风格(光泽和悬垂性)进行测试,应用SPSS统计分析软件对测试结果进行主因子分析,表明精纺毛织物的视觉风格受悬垂性影响较大。以主因子F1和F2对织物进行聚类,表明该26块织物可以分为4类:第一类为纯毛超细花呢、绒面织物及赛络菲尔织物,该类织物的悬垂性较好,但光泽较差;第二类为纯毛高支薄花呢织物,该类织物的悬垂性及光泽几乎都是最差的;第三类为纯毛哔叽和功能毛涤哔叽,该类织物的光泽较好,但悬垂性较差;第四类为纯毛高支织物,该类织物视觉风格较好。